JFP in PA

Why use a filter that doesn't filter as well?

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/k%26amp%3Bnairfilter%3F for about a half dozen tests that all agree.

If you don't like changing filters, how are you going to keep the K&N cleaned and oiled?

How many filters could you buy before you paid as much as you are going to pay for the K&N?

Is it maybe you are buying the filters from the wrong source?

www.autohausaz.com has em for $21.30.

And the Wix air filter ( part #42475) sells for $16...................

Part number 996.606.145.00 from a 2004 986S with PSM.

When I search online for this part, most places come back calling this part an "anti block sensor for the ABS system." I'm not sure what that is. I think it is the yaw sensor. Maybe that is the same thing as an anti block sensor.

First question -

Anyone know definitively what this part is and how it works (generally)? (For example, if it is the yaw sensor, it measures rotation around an axis, etc., etc.)

It shows on the part that it should be oriented front-to-back, meaning it says on the part which end should be pointing to the front of the vehicle. I believe it was located under the center console just forward of the shifter. I also believe it was mounted level.

Second question -

If mounted level and pointed toward the front correctly, can it be remounted higher? Say six inches higher, and can it move forward in the car about 6 - 8 inches - but still be on the middle tunnel?

The part is most likely an specifically calibrated accelerometer, and where it is located is actually critical as you would like it to be as close to the car’s actual center of gravity as possible, so moving it will have some impact on its level of sensitivity and response time…….

Last time I saw data on the OEM filter (Mahle), the media was rated at 28 microns. The 1042 Wix is rated at 21. The treated paper end caps on the OEM design are also well known for leakage and tearing under severe usage, which is why some aftermarket manufacturers’ of the OEM design replacements use rigid plastic end caps with internal o-rings to create a better end cap seal.

As for the magnetic drain plug, I see it more as a tool to catch the development of a problem (e.g.: sudden appearance of ferrous materials on the plug) rather than an analytic tool to measure the metals in the oil, which is the domain of a UOA....

And, after forty years of wrenching on Porsche’s, I can assure you that not all Porsche ideas are indicative of them being “subject matter experts” on many things that have come to haunt Porsche owners over the years.

Not to start and argument, but I think this says a lot about the basis your opinion: "I sell the world's top performing spin on filters"

I agree with you. Your data is what I have also seen. There are not many spin-on's that will do better than that. No problem, this is all good debate. The spin-on's I sell are marketed as the world's top performing filters and do screen down to 15 microns. That doesn't mean I would ever use one and change the flow at the filter different than that designed at the factory.

Do you use a spin-on?

Best regards,

Bill

Several of my client's use the LN adaptor; I am evaluating it on one of my cars as well, in conjunction with UOA's....... the Wix 1042, by-the-by, is rated at 11 gallons per min. max flow, which ain't bad..............

Last time I saw data on the OEM filter (Mahle), the media was rated at 28 microns. The 1042 Wix is rated at 21. The treated paper end caps on the OEM design are also well known for leakage and tearing under severe usage, which is why some aftermarket manufacturers’ of the OEM design replacements use rigid plastic end caps with internal o-rings to create a better end cap seal.

As for the magnetic drain plug, I see it more as a tool to catch the development of a problem (e.g.: sudden appearance of ferrous materials on the plug) rather than an analytic tool to measure the metals in the oil, which is the domain of a UOA....

And, after forty years of wrenching on Porsche’s, I can assure you that not all Porsche ideas are indicative of them being “subject matter experts” on many things that have come to haunt Porsche owners over the years.

Not to start and argument, but I think this says a lot about the basis your opinion: "I sell the world's top performing spin on filters"

Besides the finer filter media in the spin on filter, probably the biggest advantage is total oil filtration (“full flow” in filtration terminology), the adaptor and spin on filter have no by-pass route as the factory setup does.

Is their any truth to the stated fact that Porsche changed the mounting flange on the 3.2 engine to remedy the RMS/IMS problem beginning 'in the model year 2006? Ive seen this on both this web site

and others forums but fail to find any documentation from Porsche to support this claim. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thx Bob

Porsche's ONLY real remedy for the IMS failure issue was to remove the intermediate shaft completely from the 2010 engine; otherwise al M96 engines are at some level of risk for IMS failure.................

So just recently my battery was constantly discharging and I was getting a dead battery after driving for a while. Mechanic said it was the alternator that was bad and replaced it.

I just got it back and was monitoring the battery voltage using a little voltage monitor that plugs into the cigarette lighter.

I drove it around for a while and then let it idle in the garage for ~20 minutes and after a while, the voltage drops down to the 13.20-13.30 range. It had started around 13.8 when I first started driving it. The battery voltage monitor gives me a yellow warning light at the 13.30 level.

I read that while the car is running and the battery is being charged that the voltage should be in the 13.5-14+ range.

Is the alternator still broken or is everything still fine?

I don't want to end up driving somewhere and being stuck with a dead battery (again).

I'm leaving this one to my mechanic, who runs a highly-regarded independent shop for VW/Audi vehicles. He has the equipment necessary to evacuate the AC system without dumping a bunch of freon into the upper atmosphere, but he hasn't had a lot of experience with Porsches.

BTW we discovered that the high-pressure AC line (which is the one that appears to be leaking) is a two-piece line. The joint is at the mounting point just ahead of the right rear wheel well. We're going to replace the section from the compressor to this joint and hope that it will eliminate the leak.

Get your "wrench" to add a UV dye (Uview & others) to the system when he recharges it, that way if there is still a leak, it will be easy to spot.............

I have a MY2002 Boxster with 2.7L engine and manual transmission, USA LHD, 20K miles.

Two summers ago, my mechanic recharged the A/C system after it stopped blowing cold air. At the time he added a fluorescent dye to the refrigerant fluid to help identify source of leak if problem recurred. Made it through last summer, but this year the A/C fluid was gone again. (I drive the car from April through October but garage it for the winter.)

My mechanic showed me evidence of leak around a compression fitting on a line that is fastened to the body shell just in front of the right rear wheel well. The factory service manual has procedures for testing the system and replacing various components (compressor, condenser, etc.) but has nothing about the lines themselves.

After recharge, system works fine again--no problems with clutch, compressor, or electronics.

Has anybody ever replaced a refrigerant line from engine compartment to (we think) front right condenser? What's involved in a job like this?

After you vent and collect the current gas, then replace the damaged components, the system needs to be evacuated and held under high vacuum for several min before refilling with a weighed amount of refigerant. While not complicated, it does require speical tools and recovery gear, so it is best left (and in some states, required) to a certified pro.......

Hi,

Even though I have a driving issue that I can’t bottom out - see:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=26660

I do have other stuff to get on with…..

Next in line are new front rotors that are sitting in a box in my garage.

The calipers need painted, but an easy job I can do before getting the car up on stands is to paint the rotor hats.

Do I need heat resistant paint or can I just go with something regular like Hammerite smooth?

Do you guys go for a gloss finish or something more matt / satin?

Thanks

Paul

Considering how hot the rotors get, wouldn’t you think high temp paint is required?

I have the exact same symptom with my 2002 Boxster S. I just discovered tonight what looked like a "coffee" stain on the driveway. Turns out it was dripping from the coolant overflow. The coolant tank is filled with the same sludge. The oil is low (beneath the dipstick), but there is no sign of the same sludge on the the dipstick or oil fill cap / tube. It may be the same problem as the engine was running great, although I haven't started it since I discovered the problem.

Is there anyone that has the procedure for removing the oil cooler? I would like to check this out before panicking about head gasket, cracked head, new engine, etc.

I will drain the oil to check it out in the next few days when I have a chance.

If you have access to a Bentley manual, the cooler removal is covered in detail. First, jack up the car and remove the rear belly pan. There is a small 5 or 6 MM plug on the bottom of the engine that was covered by the pan, this is the coolant drain plug; remove it with a container than can hold 5 gallons (yes, you read correctly), of liquid. Remove the coolant cap in the rear trunk to facilitate draining. When the coolant drain slows, pull off each of the large hoses just in front of the coolant plug, these will drain the radiators. When the coolant drain is complete, replace the drain plug with a new sealing ring (a few cents at the dealer) after putting a light coating of anti seize on the plug threads. Torque drain plug to 7-11 Lb Ft. Reattach coolant hoses. Replace belly pan. Couple of useful tricks:

1. As you are fully draining the system, this is an excellent time to replace the factory 185 degree thermostat with the LN Engineering 160 degree unit. We have had excellent results with this swap, lowering around town coolant temps by 15-18 degrees.

2. Get the “-03” version coolant cap and replace you current unit. For a few bucks, it prevents major headaches later.

You need to open the engine bay, pull the air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body, and the cooler is exposed and ready to remove. Couple of tricks:

1. When the cooler is unbolted, do not move it, but lift it in a level position and slide a plastic bag under it to catch any residual oil and coolant still inside (there is a lot of both retained inside the unit and it will get all over if it drains while you are pulling it).

2. Wipe down the sealing area and always use four new (two sizes) o-rings.

3. If you are a 2.5/2.7 base engine, do not use the cooler for that engine, get the “S” model (996-107-025-57, about $200 from a good dealer). The “S” unit is more than twice the size of the base factory unit and will give you much better heat transfer.

4. Replace the Allen head fasteners and torque to 7 Lb Ft.

5. Replace the factory spring hose clamp on top of the cooler with a quality screw type.

6. On some models (but not all) there will be a close proximity between the new cooler and a hose; if you have that, just use a small section of split hose as a “sacrificial” wear protector. Again, not all models need this.

7. While you are in there, this is a great time to replace the air filter…….

8. Consider doing your poly rib belt as well at this time if it is anywhere near due, for $24, it is cheap insurance.

Button everything back up; you often find the throttle body end of the air tube can be a ***** to reconnect, but it does go back on. Refill the cooling system using the factory coolant premixed 50/50 with distilled water (ONLY; again, for less than a buck a gallon, distilled water is cheap protection); again the Bentley has instructions for this if you do not have access to a vacuum fill system, but using the vacuum system makes the refill a 5 min. no-brainer, and even pretests the system for any potential leaks. Unfortunately, the Porsche OEM vacuum fill system sells for over $500; but the company that makes them for Porsche is in Canada and sells the same unit, but with adaptors to fit anything from a Porsche to a lawn tractor for less than $100; so it is a good “buddy group buy” if you don’t want to spring for one yourself, but they really are handy for anything with a cooling system……..

I don't think it is the tires; I have two sets of them on other cars with no problems; tires handle well and are quiet. I'd look at the alignment (at a different shop) before I'd change the tires..............

Ok, went and got an electric meter thingy, and with the car off, the battery fully charged, it read about 26ma.

what does his mean?

It means you seeing a very slight current draw when everything is swithced off. This is normal, it is casued by things like radio station pre-sets, the alarm system and a clock. Usually, the a current draw of less than 50-60 mA is considered normal, so your "everything off" current draw is fine.

Suggest considering a battey maintainer for when the car is not in use. A lot of people get by without them, but they really do a great job of keeping the battery fully charged when the car is not in use, and significantly extend the battery's usefull life.....

Im

reviewing the procedures in the shop manual for coolant remove and replacement. As my 996 has 114.000 on the clock. I'm looking for a DIY for this and advise on using the UView or Rapidkitplus airlock vacum tool.

Anyone done this on a tiptronic before, need the best way and which coolant you might have used.

Thanks

D_Man

Yes, the UView system works very well; the only coolant we use is the OEM mixed 50/50 with distilled water........

Ok. I just wanna be sure I'm not missing something...

last week- battery was dead when trying to start (for no apprarent reason). Charged for 2 hours and car started and ran fine for a week straight. Voltmeter across battery when running showed 14.25 vdc. Let's assume this means alternator is good.

Last night- drove car to store. started up and then decided to let fiance' drive home. She stalled it. Battery was dead when trying to restart, got the "click click click" of the starter relay. Guy driving by with Toyota couldn't get it to jump start. Push started down hill in parking lot and drove it home. Shut off and immediateley tried to restart, dead battery.

Started right up today with battery charger in "start" mode. Again showed 14.25 vdc. I took battery to Parts store where purchased 1 year ago. Load meter shows only 62 cold cranking amps on a battery rated for 875 CCA. 12 volts dc present. Parts girl said no shorted cell. Said problem with something in car draining battery. I am thinking otherwise.

Suggestions anyone?

1. Charge the battery fully and then have it load tested. If it fails the load test, you need a new battery.

2. If the battery passes, or after you install a new one, put a multimeter between the positive battery cable (removed from the battery) and the battery + terminal; read the current (amperage) draw. Should be low (in the mili amp range), if it is not, start pulling the fuses one at a time and watch for a current draw change; when that occurs, you have identified the circuit(s) that are causing the issue..............

Do you leave your maintainer attached for the winter or do you use it just periodically? Just bought a brand new battery and a battery maintainer (Canadian Tire brand) but I'm still nervous to leave it attached even for the rest of the winter.

The maintainer cycles on and off a few times an hour judging by the lights, do you see similar with your maintainers?

Any comments on the cigarette lighter adaptor with the maintainer and a Boxster?

I put my car away around Nov. and it sits until March-April with the battery maintainer plugged into the cig lighter outlet. The car was designed to be stored this way, it will not cause any problems as long as the maintainter you use is a good one....

P0650 could be a couple of things:

1. Open circuit, or implausible signal

2. Exceeding mixture threshold (either over rich or over lean)

Suggest a PID scan of sensors to see what they are reading................

In both cases what needs to be fixed or changed?

This is where the PID scan comes in; it shows the "real time" output of the sensors, one of which is either uhappy or not responding. The scan will show which one(s) is(are) the issue.............

The diagnostics Loren mentioned are also a good start, as the MIL signal itself could be the issue.

No one ever said diagnostics where easy; but they can be fun.........

Well I have good news and a major relief at least for the wallet.....

I removed the small hose from the oil cooler and the milky oil/coolant mix began seeping from the oil cooler. I removed the oil cooler, poored a soapy water solution into the coolant ports and applied 60 psi air pressure to the oil passages. Bubbles galore!

I will try and send pictures and a small video if possible.

Does anyone make a retrofit cooler or larger more efficeient cooler to replace the factory cooler?

I may make a block adapter and add an external cooler to keep the oil cooler.

Please let me know if there is a company with such an adapter and cooler.

Thank all of you that replied! :renntech:

Now it's time to get busy and clean up the mess.

:)

Jake Raby and LN Engineering make a spin on oil filter adaptor that allow the addition of an air/oil cooler that is used in conjunction with the OEM water/oil unit. Suggest going to the "S" version of the OEM unit first; water/oil units have the advantage of warming up the oil under cold starts. If you are to add a second air/oil unit, you will also need to add a thermostatic valve in the air/oil system to limit oil movement to the cooler until it warms up.........

Now that I think about it.. if you want to go back stock.. I have a lot of them laying around off of good running engines! Tell me were to send it!

Oh.. and I have never seen one fail :)

B

We have. but it isn't a "common" occurance........ A cooling system pressure test usually catches it when it does happen.

P0650 could be a couple of things:

1. Open circuit, or implausible signal

2. Exceeding mixture threshold (either over rich or over lean)

Suggest a PID scan of sensors to see what they are reading................

Has anyone experienced coolant expansion tank on a 99 Boxster with a 2.5L engine filling with engine oil? It appears to be a pretty severe concern as the coolant tank is completely full of oil and the oil level is low.

If the engine is started, oil will begin flowing out of coolant tank as it appears to be pressure fed. There is no smoke from the exhaust.

Is there anything common here? Head gasket, oil cooler, cylinder cracked, etc...

I don't see any coolant on the oil dipstick, just oil in the coolant tank but I have not drained the oil yet....

I will perform further diagnostics to try and locate concern.

Does anyone have a schematic of the coolant and oil passages in this engine?

Please let me know if you have experienced this concern and what you did to resolve it.

Thanks!

:o

I have to say that I’m a bit apprehensive about finding oil that is separate from the coolant (e.g.: not a milky emulsion) in the coolant tank……… Normally, if there is a leak between the two systems, it shows up as a foamy emulsion, not just oil by itself. And as you have said you ran a pressure test, the correct diagnostic for such a situation, and not observed leakage, I would become even more circumspect that there is a real issue.

Suggest the following:

1. Remove the oil from the coolant tank using a siphon.

2. Top off the coolant mix, adding a coolant UV dye indicator (available on line or at many full service auto parts outlets).

3. Top off the oil to the correct level.

4. Run the car for a few days, monitoring the oil and coolant to see if any emulsion starts to form or the oil returns.

5. If no emulsion (or oil) is seen after several days, check an oil sample from the dipstick under a UV light source, looking for the presence of the UV dye.

6. If after these steps, you see no emulsion or signs of the dye in the oil, assume that somehow, oil was added to the coolant tank by mistake…..

Charles and Jake have spent thousands of their own dollars to come up with solutions to improve these engines. The have hundreds of oil analysis samples that prove fuel intrusion begins at the 6 to 7k mile point. I know I am a "parrot" repeating their claims, however, with all the evidence they possess, why would I not believe their recommendations? The way Porsche has handled this matter, they are the last source I would trust.

What, exactly, is the physics of that? Why would fuel not intrude and not intrude and then all of the sudden start intruding into the oil, then magically stop again with the next oil change?

The exact reason is not really fully known, but used oil testing shows that fuel intrusion seems to come and go, even on a single vehicle. Problem is that when it does happen, the oil's ability to lubricate and carry heat away suffers badly, usually without the driver knowing anything about it. There has been speculation that it could be caused by certain batches of fuel or atmospheric conditions; but to date there is not enough solid data to confirm (or eliminate) specific potential causes........

Has anyone done the stainless steel brake line replacement and if so, is there anything to look out for? Seems easy on the face of it but that's usually when I screw something up.

Use a good penetrating oil like "PB Blaster", and ONLY use fitting wrenches designed for the purpose and you will be fine. Do one line at at time, using a short piece of plugged rubber hose to plug off the tubing while working to prevent draining too much fluid out while changing the lines as this will get air into the ABS/PSM components which will mandate the use of a PST II/PIWIS unit to correct. Bleed/flush the entire system when you are done. Take your time, it is a simple project...............

Vacuum system not withstanding, exactly what can happen refueling a running Boxster that has you so scared?

Well, in some states it is illegal to leave the car running for saftey reasons...............and it will cause a CEL in many newer cars as well.....

First, battery “maintainers” and “trickle chargers” are different. Battery maintainers are good, trickle chargers are not. A battery maintainer uses electronics to bring the battery up to full charge and then shuts down the current flow until needed; trickle chargers keep charging the battery at a low rate, even when the battery is fully charged. That leads to problems and premature battery failure. Be sure the unit you use is a “maintainer” and not a “trickle charger”.

By all means, use a quality maintainer, it will keep your battery in optimal condition and will also extend its useful life.