JFP in PA

An absolutely unnecessary mod, but it looks good.

Looks much better, costs less than $15...................

not sure of the install, but wondering how much the aluminum look cap cost. ?

i've seen prices around $140. the cap looks great, but i just can't justify buying a $140 cap that no one but me will see. if it was $40, i could. ;)

With today's gas prices, the ugly black locking unit looks much better........

The issue is a failing Bendix drive unit on the starter that is not retracting fully or in a timely fashion. While the Bendix unit can be serviced or replaced, most just replace the entire starter. Remanufactured OEM unit will be in the $220-300 range with a core exchange.

I copied several part numbers from harness connections to my '03 Boxster S so that I could assemble a custom harness for installing a new stereo but the numbers come up as "customer proprietary" on Amp's site... i.e., they are renumbered for Porsche. Does anyone know how I can get generic part numbers for building custom wiring harnesses for connection to existing factory connections?

Specifically I am looking for the mates to:

1. Phone harness connector part # AMP 1-828-819-1 (factory harness has a female connector)

2. Amplifier harness (BE6600) part # AMP 1-828-882-1 (factory harness has a female connector)

3. Radio Harness black and yellow connectors (factory harness has female connectors)

This will all end up as a DIY for stereo installations...

Thanks,

Rex

Suggest contacting Crutchfield (or someone similar) and ask about after market audio install wiring adaptor kits. I've used them on several cars, and they allow you to install an aftermarket system without cutting any parts of the factory harness.....also makes it possible to pull the after market unit out and reinstall the factory unit in mins. and without any fuss.

I am going to change the transmission oil in my 6 speed 2001 S Boxster. I am dealing with the infamous 1st - 2nd gear when cold shifting problem. I am thinking about using Mobil 1 LS 75W-90. Has anybody used this lube before, or know if this is appropriate? This is a synthetic GL-5 lube.

:renntech:

A copy of my response to the same question on another site:

I would not use Mobil 1 for a very simple reason: I emailed their tech line and was told that “Mobil 1 does not have appropriate gear oil for your application.”

I would agree that changing the gear lube more frequently than the factory call for, but Porsche has gone to lengths (as with other components) to prevent the after market from replicating the correct formulation (they use obtuse specs that no one in the US, who use API specs, seems to be able to discern).

As for those who have gone in a different direction, we have a 2004 Japanese car in the shop at the moment that the owner used a Mobil 1 product in his 6 speed, and for nearly a year had no issues (actually felt the shifting was improved); then suffered severe shifting issues that we traced to disintegration of the synchronizers. We queried Mobil 1 and got the same response, no appropriate product for the application (in this case the correct spec was for a GL-4 rated lube, which Mobil does not have).

I have seen several postings on this site, and others, that offer conflicting and usually unsubstantiated opinions on which gear oil is safe/correct/better in Porsche gear boxes; often contradicting other postings. Contacting the manufacturers of gear oils has also proven disconcerting as some appear to have said yes and then no to the same question at different times.

That said, the factory fill is a full synthetic, and is readily available from dealers willing to discount it somewhat (e.g.: Sunset), it seems a conservative move to use what the factory likes, even if it cost a bit more. As these gear boxes use less than three quarts of lube, and a new gear box costs a ton of cash, using Porsche’s over priced lube would seem a reasonable pathway………….but that is just my opinion…………….. ;-)

hi guys,

just a quick question on the rear transmission and rear diff gear oil. do i need to change them if my 01 boxster S has only 40000kms on it?

if not when do i need to?

Changing it before it is due will not hurt anything as long as you refill it with the correct lube. Several have posted that they saw improved shifting characteristics after changing the gear oil.................suggest reading my posting on this subject in the 986 DIY section.

But never mind all that. Why I really wanted to post is to ask how 986 owners feel about PSM. The '00 Boxster i mentioned above doesn't have it, my old '02 did. I thought it was a nice addition to the car, and I'm wondering if I'd regret not having it if I purchased the '00. In the rain, or if driving the car very hard, is PSM an arse-saver? Perhaps someone has with/without experience on a 986...

thanks,

Green

I wouldn't be without it................

My 2000 Boxster's bra doesn't fit very well around the outer part of the headlights.

It's a factory bra, had same problem with Colgan bra (both are very similar btw).

It appears to be the nature of the beast but was wondering if anyone has a

solution to the problem?

Yes, get rid of the "over the headlight" syle unit and get the later model.....................

Current V1 with "PoP"....................

Which brand do you gentlemen prefer? I read that valentine is top choice, Is that correct in you opinions? I'm in texas so I don't know what type or radar they use.

Never said failure, just not the intended purpose.

While redoing a Vw Vanagon Syncro with new brake lines from master to caliper I was contemplating stainless (flex) lines at the caliper that many vendors were selling. Figured if they were good enough for high performance needs that would be fine for a heavy duty vanagon syncro.

Many on the Vw board jumped on me for the idea and said stick with the stock for heavy duty and daily operation. I to was skeptical and found some discussions around the net via google and found many with the same opinion.

According to topics I read most stated they are fine for race and performance application but not to be put on your car for 5-10 years. They were intended for heavy duty use over a shorter interval and that over time would actually expend and wear greater then many OEM designs.

Just passing on the logic of what I read from many sites. Most stated they were for looks on daily drivers and not long term solutions.

Of course my boxster weighs 1/3 what my syncro does!

So I guess that I should immediately panic over the set that have been on my 3500 lb Nissan for more than a decade of daily driving in any environment where the temps range from over 100F in the summer to sub zero (with tons of salt on the road) in the winter? Oh, and the car came from the factory with the stainless lines...............including the clutch hydraulic line.

I have read more incorrect "web-myths" on this subject than I would care to mention. If stainless lines are "short lived" or not for "heavy duty" use, how did they get DoT approval (yes, there are braided stainless lines with full DoT ratings), the same approval required for the OEM rubber types which are supposed to be good for the life of the car?

Braided lines do a couple of positive things: They do improve pedal feel as they do not flex as much as rubber under pressure; they are significantly stronger and resistant to damage than the rubber lines, which is why many types of racing require them as protection from either track or shrapnel damage. In over 35 years of racing everything from SCCA to NHRA top fuel, I have never seen or heard of a braided line failing……………………….

Ben,

In my opinion if you are not a racer those stainless lines are just for looks and do not have the life expectancy beyond a couple years. Google the topic you find many facts against them, they are a racers tool. The blingers from the rice market have put to many on honda and toyotas with poor long term performance and dependability.

shawn

Rubbish. I've used them for many years on street and race vehicles, have never had or heard of a failure.........

Only difference that I can think of is the diagram layout of the components section since the (emissions) parts sit in different locations on the Boxster.

Loren, I spoke with Jeff Clark about these 996 OBD II manuals, and they are pre e-gas only (98-99) and would not be usefull for later models..........................

Hello,

I am painting the brake calipers on my 01 Boxster, and I have already removed and cleaned the rear two calipers. I am going to do the fronts this weekend, but I have a couple of questions. The paint I got is just some red engine paint I picked up from Advanced Auto Parts, it is suppose to be good for 500 degrees; is this paint going to work well? Also I want to completely flush the brake fluid; right now I have the back calipers off so and I just let the brake fluid drip into two containers. If I do the same to the front is this all I need to do to drain all the old brake fluid out? After I re-install the calipers does anyone have a good how-to on bleeding the brakes? Also are there any good brand brake fluids I should look into? I read a little into bleeding the clutch; is this worth doing because is I pump my pedal several times it does seem to have a more noticeable grab and lower to the floor too? Thanks for any help!!

First of all, buy a couple of small vacuum line caps or make your own out of sections of vacuum hose and insert a screw into the end. Use the caps to plug the line when you disconnect the brake flex line. Letting the lines drip out runs the risk of getting air into the ABS/PSM system, which you could have real difficulty getting out without a PST II/PIWIS to cycle the system.............................................. Then go buy your self a Motive pressue bleeder and bleed the lines properly when you are done ...............

Yikes. That part is expensive. It is about $150 and I can't be sure that it will fit my existing tester since I don't have specs for it.

Everything they sell is expensive, I recently priced a PIWIS system and it cost more (just for the first year) than I paid to add a full bay and lift to my shop...................anything to keep the independents’ out of the loop.............

I'm sure only factory installed litronics move up and down when first turned on. Factory installed litronics have sensors in the suspension that automatically level the low beam depending on the load in the vehicle. Since yours are not factory , your low beam should only rotate up when the high beams are activated.

That is not correct, correctly installed after market lits move up and down when first turned on................

I have seen problems consistently in many cars with Redline fluid. Seems like you change it out and it causes the tranny to be notchy afterwards. I have had them even be so bad that I have saved the previous tranny fluid and put that back in the trans to fix the problem.

Light Weight Shock Proof has worked great in our race cars (nice turquoise color too lol) however I have seen it not be so happy in a few street cars as well...

The best tranny fluid for transmissions with wear problems and some grinding is actually a GM product made by Pensoil. You can buy it from any GM dealership its called GM Syncromesh. If you have a grinding or tough shifting manual tranny after about 2-3000 miles with that fluid it does a wonderful job of getting the tranny to stop grinding and causing problems. When I first heard about it I never though a GM product would be worth looking at but I kept coming at me from different sources until we tried it ourselves. I ran it in my talon for years cause they are brutal on the transmission with AWD and 400ish WHP in my personal car. Nothing but that would keep the tranny shifting smooth at 8000rpm for an entire season...

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense...................

Wow, everybody is an expert around here. JFP do a google search on GM Syncromesh around the net. I have used it in everthing from 500hp street driven civics to RX7's with Japanese 3 Rotor right upto Supras with 800+ hp and Audi S4's with dual K04's makin around 400+whp with quattro. Guys who run major power end up with tranny issues and the GM syncromesh works wonders in all these cases. Now eventually they will need to be rebuilt however in the mean time it gave them all some extra tranny life they would have never received before. The supra especially with the Getrag tranny was grinding into 2nd pretty badly. The syncromesh all but took away 90% of the grind for another year and eventually he stripped the gear right outta the box at the drag strip, if he didn't do that who knows how much longer it would have lasted. It's a bit of an unknown trick however just because it was developed for GM doesn't mean it's bad.

I'll bet you have N rated tires on your car too eh?

Let's start with API GL ratings (you can join the API website and read all about it); the API (American Petroleum Institute) sets the testing standards for various product parameters and requirements set by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers, the engineers that design and test the gearbox) for use in vehicles.

Porsche (as well as many other OEM’s such as Nissan) has been using API GL-4 rated gear oils for many years. The GL-4 rating requirement stems from the use of certain alloy types in the transmission components, specifically the synchronizer and bearing assemblies. Use of a non GL-4 rated lubricant leads to premature wear or corrosion of these components, poor shifting, and potentially catastrophic component failures; which can get pretty pricey with Porsches.

Mobil 1 does not produce a GL-4 rated fluid, and in response to technical question has recommended against using their gear oils in any gearbox requiring GL-4 lubricants. GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh technical bulletins do not list any API ratings, but instead say:

Therefore, this product does not meet the API GL rating required for a Porsche. But, instead of doing individual research into what lubricants your gearbox was designed to use, please go with the "I saw it on the internet" approach, and feel free to put whatever you want into your transmission; as well, use whatever crap third world tires that floats your boat……………..

I have seen problems consistently in many cars with Redline fluid. Seems like you change it out and it causes the tranny to be notchy afterwards. I have had them even be so bad that I have saved the previous tranny fluid and put that back in the trans to fix the problem.

Light Weight Shock Proof has worked great in our race cars (nice turquoise color too lol) however I have seen it not be so happy in a few street cars as well...

The best tranny fluid for transmissions with wear problems and some grinding is actually a GM product made by Pensoil. You can buy it from any GM dealership its called GM Syncromesh. If you have a grinding or tough shifting manual tranny after about 2-3000 miles with that fluid it does a wonderful job of getting the tranny to stop grinding and causing problems. When I first heard about it I never though a GM product would be worth looking at but I kept coming at me from different sources until we tried it ourselves. I ran it in my talon for years cause they are brutal on the transmission with AWD and 400ish WHP in my personal car. Nothing but that would keep the tranny shifting smooth at 8000rpm for an entire season...

Let's see........... We go from a gear oil with the wrong API GL rating for these gearboxes (Mobil 1), to one with no API rating at all (GM/Penzoil Syncromesh)..................yeah, that makes sense...................

Why on earth would one not use Mobil 1 Synthetic in the transmission?

Because Mobil 1 does not make a fluid with the correct GL rating to make it compatible with these transmissions...........other than that, no reason...........

Try 5381

or

5379

OK; Gotta ask: Loren, how do get these numbers? I've now seen you respond to two of these inquireries, always with two possibles.....................How?

So in other words... I can simply purchase "S" Calipers and use them on my base with your simple modification? or do I still need "S" Rotors.

JFP IN PA --> Do you have the part for the rotors that you use?

Not were I am, but i will look for the paper work on them next week when i'm home. They are a Brembo part, available from Race Tech..........

Anytime. I've done three of these conversions, all using the Brembo parts from the above sources, and all were a snap to do. I still have one set on an 02, and they have been great to drive, and have not caused any problems........ the last "full" kit I purchased (everything for all four corners) was $2795 (delivered) from Suncoast.................

stay tuned for pictures on how to turn an S rear caliper into a base rear caliper and vice versa. BTW, the base rotors will work with the S rear calipers. i will post pics on how / why this is the case. i'm thinking maybe brembo sends you cross drilled base rears. next time you buy a set, measure the thickness. i bet they're standard thickness. i'll post the pics / measurements / explanation a bit later; still messy from working earlier.

Actually, the rear rotors are not "base thickness" (20 mm), they are "s" thickness (24 mm), I just checked....................

I've purchased the Brembo items from two sources: Suncoast Porshce in Fla. http://www.suncoastporsche.com/ , and directly from Brembo's US master distributor, Race Technologies in Marina Del Rey, CA http://www.racetechnologies.com If you just want to get the rotors, I'd suggest Race Technologies, as they tend to stock the parts while Suncoast carries the full kit (rotors, lines, calipers, etc.)........................

fantastic information. thanks!

Anytime. I've done three of these conversions, all using the Brembo parts from the above sources, and all were a snap to do. I still have one set on an 02, and they have been great to drive, and have not caused any problems........ the last "full" kit I purchased (everything for all four corners) was $2795 (delivered) from Suncoast.................

one more question: since the base rotors and the s rotors are the same overall diameter (just different thicknesses), would it be possible to use base rotors with the S calipers? are the hub offsets different?

I've purchased the Brembo items from two sources: Suncoast Porshce in Fla. http://www.suncoastporsche.com/ , and directly from Brembo's US master distributor, Race Technologies in Marina Del Rey, CA http://www.racetechnologies.com If you just want to get the rotors, I'd suggest Race Technologies, as they tend to stock the parts while Suncoast carries the full kit (rotors, lines, calipers, etc.)........................

As for using the base rotors, I do not think that will work, but the guys at Race Tech probably could give you better info on that subject......................

i need measurements of the rotor hat depth and diameter. i have 's' calipers to install on my base box. the fronts were a snap; not sure if i'll run into offset issues in the rear. anyone?

You cannot mount the factory "S" rear rotors on a base because the S car uses different suspension components (hubs) and have a different e-brake diameter (caused by the use of the 6 speed gearbox). Having covered that, you can obtain "S" diameter rotors from Brembo that are internally machined to "base" e-brake diameters, allowing the use of "S" brakes on a base car without changing over the suspension items (read big $). They simply bolt right on, no other mods. If memeory serves, the trick rotors are about $270 pair.......

I did a search, but I cannot find what this means. I have the Durametric, however I am clueless on how to go about rectifying this. I appreciate your help.

Not to place too fine a point on it, but the DME P codes start at P0100..............that said, I think you are refering to the Porsche "FC" code #30 which is the same as a P1157/1158 code, which is either the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) failure, or a wiring issue involving the ECT..................there is a diagnostic procedure that measures the resistance across the ECT (2.2-2.6 kohms across pins 1 & 2 on the ECT sensor @ 20 C); if it passes, you need to check the ECT sensor harness for a short...................