JFP in PA

After years of good service the CEL came on last week in traffic. Got a PC but not a laptop, so I need a standalone OBD reader, any model that is preferred by the this list?

Thanks,

I like the Actron 9145, but be aware that it will not clear "protected Porsche codes" (ABS, airbags, etc); only option there is a laptop and the Durametric software package..............

After replacing the engine car will not start. Using Durametric tool, only codes are alarm related:

21 No engine start possible

60 Central locking limit position locked

49 No communication with PST2

16 No unlocking of doors in event of accident

33 No passenger compartment monitoring

Since the last race I have removed radio and A/C and all of its components, removed passenger side airbag as well as door (both) airbags, removed airbag system controller.

I understand that the only way to clear alarm related codes is a PST2. Any additional help/comments are appreciated.

Thanks,

Edwin.

I'd worry about #49, "No communication with PST II", this is an indication the the DME unit may be acting up and/or dead...........

The reason for this post is to show a way to attach an Optima battery without using the tray method.

There are a few companies out there that would be happy to charge you $30-$250 for a piece of plastic or aluminum with holes drilled in it.

My point is that it's not necessary to use a second tray. You can install the battery without waiting for other parts, save some money, easily use the stock cables, an locate your battery in the center of the car.

That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective...........

Again, you've missed the point of the thread. The DIY section is for instructions on DIY projects. I'd suggest you start a new thread somewhere else if you want to defend your solution.

Allow me end my obvious interruption of your "look how cheap I can be" chest-beating session by also commenting that your installation will most likely also fail a tech/safety inspection for any DE, Auto X or SCCA event as well............but go right ahead and enjoy your parsimoniousness………………..OK, now the stage is all yours………………….

The reason for this post is to show a way to attach an Optima battery without using the tray method.

There are a few companies out there that would be happy to charge you $30-$250 for a piece of plastic or aluminum with holes drilled in it.

My point is that it's not necessary to use a second tray. You can install the battery without waiting for other parts, save some money, easily use the stock cables, an locate your battery in the center of the car.

That's fine; however, I'd rather spend $40, use my stock cables, have the battery centered, and a machined and brushed-finish aluminum mounting plate with all stainless steel fasteners that yeilds a pristine installation rather than some pieces of crudely cut metal and some plastic bits...................but maybe that's just my perspective...........

You do realize that Yellow Dog Motorsports makes these in kit form (everything needed to do a 5 min install included) either in plastic or aluminum.....................................

I Googled Yellow Dog Motorsports and got some quarter midget site about a kid's family team. How do you order the kit?

To my knowledge, they do not have a website yet. But you can reach them at YELLOWDOGMOTORSP@aol.com, or at

Yellow Dog Motorsports

801 E. 59th Street

Davenport, IA 52807

(563) 386-0675.

Ask for Jan, (the owner), he is very nice to do business with. He has two kits, one with a plastic mounting plate, one in machined aluminum, both are beautifully made and include all stainless steel fasteners. I have the aluminum unit, and mounting the 34R to it and then installing it into the car took about 5 min. And yes, it costs more than $2, but is well worth the investment. I've even had my dealer ask about where I got it as his parts manager wanted to get a couple of kits for stock......the kits are that nice........

I got an optima 34R battery yesterday to replace my failing stock battery. I figured out a way to secure the battery to the tray without having to make the popular adapter plate.

The Boxster's battery tray has 9 holes in it. 5 are down the center of the tray in the long direction, 3 of them are threaded for the locking bracket and two are through holes at the ends of the plate. The 4 others are for mounting the tray to the chassis.

The Optima battery has flanges at the lower short ends for mounting, just like the Porsche part does. The problem is that the Optima battery is too short to match any of the threaded holes in the tray correctly and placing it all the way over to the driver's side like the stock battery makes the positive terminal too far away for the cables to reach. The Optima needs to sit about centered on the battery tray for both cable to reach the terminals.

The Optima comes with some mounting brackets, one of which functions exactly the same way as the stock steel tie-down bracket, it grabs the flanges at the edges of the battery. So now I have two tie down brackets that will grab the flanges of the battery.

Test fitting showed that if I used the Optima tie down in the extra hole on the driver's side, I just needed to extend the tie down on the passenger side to grab the passenger side flange of the battery due to the hole locations. I made a 4" by 2" plate of 1/8" aluminum, turned the hold down around so it would grab the aluminum plate properly, and screwed everything down. The driver's side bracket is held in place with a stainless button head screw, washer and nut.

Everything is very tightly held down, the battery posts are at the same height as stock and it all cost about $1.50 in extra stainless steel hardware.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...ll/HPIM0609.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...ll/HPIM0605.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...ll/HPIM0606.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...ll/HPIM0607.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3...ll/HPIM0608.jpg

You do realize that Yellow Dog Motorsports makes these in kit form (everything needed to do a 5 min install included) either in plastic or aluminum.....................................

Okay, so I'll try this again -- I wonder if anyone has attempted a DIY hack that makes the lights to go off when you turn off the engine and pull out the key?

-- peer

Why?

After searching through this awesome forum, it seems that Coolant Tank fractures are common in the Boxster. Fortunately mine has not broken yet but it seems inevitable.

Thinking about this, I have a possible solution I'll throw out.

1. Has anyone ever tried repairing these with either a hardened epoxy or a semi-flexible epoxy?

2. Or has anyone ever covered the coolant tank with an epoxy to help provide longevity to it?

As a hobby I am restoring an old mahogany runabout and have been using various types of epoxies. These are not your Home Depot/Lowes everyday super stong epoxies. These are actually made to be able to hold a sea-worthy boat together of up to 40 feet in length without screws. ( a smart builder however would still use screws.) Fiberglass is a sponge compared to this stuff. Needless to say it's nasty stuff to work with but some of them have a similar consistency to the ABS plastic used in automobiles and in particular the coolant tank.

I was thinking that if the tank was already cracked, this could be applied and would most definately seal the crack forever. If not cracked it may be a good deterent to breakage. They can handle stress like you can't believe and are very heat resistant too.

There are some that have zero flexibility (West Marine for example) and some that allow just a small amount of flex. Im not sure how much heat they can take but do know that before mixed and cured, the boiling points of these products are typically around 200 degrees which would make me think that cured they could withstand temperatures much much higher.

I am not a chemist but have learned a lot about using this stuff and am very impressed. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

After going thru the greif to get the unit out, I'd rather put in a new one..........................

Anybody know what dealer or shop sells Litronics (retrofit) the cheapest? Mine were stolen and insuance only wants to replace with halogen since mine were not factory installed.

Along with new lits, you need two other things: A new insurance company, and a lawyer to go after your old one. Unless the rules have changed, they have to replace what was taken, and not with the cheapest substitue they can find.......

I really don't know much about this so this is why I'm asking!!! What does a MSD CD or digital, which ever model do to the engine? And how does it benefit it ? I've read the claims made by the manufacturer but want other opinions on the matter. Is this a worthy investment? What purpose does it have? Can it be used with my Boxster and would I need this (Tach Adapter (Cars with Magnetic Pickup Distributor))? Just want to get informed

MSD's claim to fame is "multi-spark" systems that increase the voltage output and fire the plugs 5-7 times within the time frame a normal system would fire the plug once. I've used their systems on race cars, where the extreme compression ratios and engine RPM ranges can (and do) benefit from this technology, but see no real advantage to them for street applications as the coil pack systems these cars have from the factory work just fine. You should also know that MSD systems operate at very high electrical frequencies, which reek interference havoc on car stereo systems........................

Ah okay so the disc is part of the big red upgrade kit.... I'll speak to some porsche parts places here and find out how much the disc will be.....

Thanks again for all your help.... hopefully that'll be the last question I ask :)

Cheers

Duncan

Brembo Kit: 894.5986R Boxster 97-03 Front & Rear minimum wheel size: 17" Front rotor diam: 12.5" 318 mm Cost : $3,250 (US$)

Enjoy!

Hi JPA

Thanks for the info.... I realise they will fit as you've mentioned however the price tag of $1,000 is putting me off a little bit.... was trying to come up with a cheaper solution.

The people in the UK's suggestion was if I wanted to use the S rotors I'd need to replace the other bits.... as they don't sell modified rotors.

I'll stop bugging you now and get it sorted either way. :)

Cheers

Duncan

Because the factory "S" uses the six speed, the rear hubs (and several other components) are different, including the rotor and ebrake size. While a base car can be converted over to all these "S" components, the price to do so is totally outrageous; hence Brembo introduced the "Big Reds" kit to change the base car over to "S" brakes by using the special rear rotors. The total kit used to cost in the $3K (US) range and had every possible part you would need, including braided stainless steel brake lines, which are a very nice additon to any car. The price for the kit was less than half the price for the OEM components to get the car ready to accept the OEM "S" brakes set up. As I've mentioned, I have one on my Boxster, and have installed two other kits, it is a simple bolt on swap, but expensive...............

Okay sorry I have another question.... the shipping on the rotors came in at $295.... although they have offer to reduce the cost of the discs to allow for this... I'm still debating this in my head. I have however had an e-mail this morning with another suggestion by a Porsche specialist in the UK as follows.....

Duncan,

You need to use the complete S upright/disc/handbrake assembly on the

rear

because the discs are a different offset and the 2.5 has a smaller

diameter

handbrake assembly. It is possible to "fiddle" the S caliper onto the

stock

2.5 disc but I do not believe that it is worth the effort. If you shop

around you should be able to find the parts at a breakers cheap enough.

Kind Regards,

What do those technical people think of this.... do you see any fitment issues?

As always thanks for your help.

Duncan

I do not konw who this "specialist" is, but he is not correct on this issue. I have the Brembo kit on my car, I've installed it on two others, there is no "fitment" issues, no "offset" issues or need to change ANYTHING ELSE to put them on the car, period. They simply replace the exsiting rotors, with the new caplipers ("S" version) and bolt on. You need to stop worrying about it, buy the correct parts and get on with it............................They fit!!!!!

My 1997 Boxster (5 spd with 31K miles) developed an oil leak which was evaluated by a local, well respected private shop. The tech discovered oil leaking from the crankcase ventillation system, claiming the problem was caused by the oil separator. Can someone explain this scenario to me? What parts are required and what costs might I expect to repair same?

The AOS is Porsche's answer to the PCV valve on most cars. It has been a weak point, and there have been several posts over on PPBB about updated parts and DIY fix-its. Not hard, but requires the right replacements parts and some time to to it correctly. Suggest you do a "AOS" search on PPBB.............

Sorry me again I'm getting differing views on this.... can anyone please please tell me if this conversion is possible..... I'm really confused and don't want to go to the expensive of buying the rest of the parts only to find the rears don't fit.

Has anyone done this conversion and if so did you have to use any special parts?

So far I've had a few places say easy change.... and others say not sure never tried.... and others say no!!!!

Didn't realise it would be so hard!! :(

So far I've....

E-mailed Brembo (no response)

Spoken to local Porsche dealer in UK (no conversion kit available)

Spoken to an independant in UK (not a problem)

Suncoast Porsche (not sure if it's possible)

Spoken to a breakers yard in UK(3.2 and 2.5 have different e-brake set up never tried to put s on standard so not sure)

Thanks very much for all your help guys.

Cheers

Duncan

You need to contact Bremo's master distributor in the US: Race Technologies at http://www.racetechnologies.com

Yes, a full conversion kit exisits, I have one installed and have done two others, they are a bolt in swap with the kit; which includes the "special" rear rotors that are machined to the base e-brake size, stainless steel lines, new caliper bolts, etc. But be aware the the kit is not cheap..................

Oh, and one kit was purchased from Suncoast, so I have no idea why they are "not sure is it possible"........

Hi there

I was wondering if someone could confirm this for me please.

I'm looking to put a set of S brakes on my 99 Boxster. I believe the only thing i need is 17" or above rims (I have 18's) for the addtional size of calipers/discs??

Is this correct will the S calipers and discs fit directly to my car?

Thanks in advance for your help

Regards

Duncan

Brembo makes a special rotor for the rear, "S" diameter & cross drilled so it will accept the calipers, but the ebrake drum is machined to "base" specs, so it will bolt right on...................

never seen this fastner before. trying to change the gear oil ('99 box, 5-speed). not sure what this fastner is called and where to get the tool. it looks like a triple or quadrouple square tamper proof plug.

The drain plug is a weirdo, it requires a Hazet 2567-16 socket tool to remove it. I purchased one from Maryland Metrics (online tool house), costs about $29 delivered. None of the "ususal" tool sources (Sears, SnapOn, etc.) were able to help...................

How do I successfully remove this piece without scratching the leather dash or the finish on the piece?

Thanks in advance....

Easiest way is with a plastic butter knife or pot scraper. Just insert it from the bottom and pull the panel towards you, it will pop right off, with no damage. B)

I saw this on the PCA site regarding 993s and thought it was pretty cool. Unfortunately it didn't work on my 2001 Boxster. Is there anything similar for a 986 to have the OBD codes displayed?

...Now, in the meantime, you can read the codes yourself if you are patient. With the engine off, but the ignition key on, hold the gas pedal down to the floor for 3 seconds, til the Check Engine Light flashes, then release it.

You should see one long flash, a pause, then a short flash, then a pause, then some number of flashes, a pause, it may repeat for additional digits, or not, when it is done.

If you see a long flash, a pause, one short flash, a pause, then five short ones, that is code 15, which means, no fault codes are stored.

Or you might see a long flash (meaning that a code follows), one short and a pause (number 1), another short one and a pause (next digit is 1), two short ones, then four short ones, that would be P1124, Oxygen sensor adaptation range problem.

Leading zeros are omitted in this scheme.

We can't cl ear codes this way, but at least we can read them without being forced in to the dealer...

Time to break down and buy an OBD II scanner..........you can get a basic unit that will display and clear codes for about $60..........................

Besides which, if the MIL light is on, you will need to wither go to dealer or someone with a PST II to reset it.

You may also want to give Justin a call at Brandywine Porsche, or email him at jlane@Brandywineporsche.com