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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. 4 minutes ago, obin robinson said:

    I assume that to test the wiring I just check resistance between the harness at the airbag control module and the harness at the seat belt tensioner? It looks like connector A2 should be the one. Am I missing anything else obvious that should be checked? If there is indeed a break in the connection then can I just run a new pair of wires directly from the harness back to the driver's side belt pretensioner? I have heard that there is some wiring in the steering wheel or is that not related to this?

    On thing you are not considering is that the control module itself may be involved.  If that is the case, you are going to need a sharp tech and access to the PIWIS system.

    • Like 1
  2. Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    As noted above, Porsche, like may other OEM's, has restricted what repairs are permitted in the field with their SMG (read PDK) transmissions.  Dealer techs are limited to a very short list of things to check, including software updates, before they resort to replacing the gearbox.  And, like other brands, there is no plans for an exchange program where the vehicle owner gets anything more than a core value for the used gearbox because it would be impractical for Porsche or any other OEM to tear down and access the level damage to the components in a timely manner, so a value retention program is little more than wishful thinking.  Porsche, again like other brands, has also dramatically restricted the availability of parts for these transmissions, partially because aftermarket vendors were purchasing them and then significantly modifying them before selling them to the public.  The wet clutch assembly is a good example; Porsche had made it available as an over the counter part number for around $5K (US), but stopped doing so when cars came in with the modified clutches failing and damaging other component's in the gearboxes. Net result is that you can now only find sump pans, filters, and fluids for these gearboxes; anything beyond that gets very expensive very quickly.

  3. 1 hour ago, michael lioce said:


    I bought on Ebay a used exhaust upgrade that I've seen on line for about $3000.   The  price was $600 delivered so I thought, great.  After installing the system  ( headers, catalytic converters, plus mufflers with 2 nice round tail pipes) I was very disappointed with the sound.  At higher reves it sounds fine but at normal operation it's more like a bad muffler.  I was going to re-install the he old boring muffler and header but I thought maybe someone out there may have a suggestion for a fix for the new system.

    This was installed on my 1997 Boxster.


    mike Lioce


    A belated welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    While I hate to say this, you have just joined a lot of other people that discovered the exact same thing: Nearly every aftermarket exhaust system ever made for the 986 has droning issues.  Perhaps even worse, before and after dyno sessions have repeatedly also shown that most of these system do not add any measurable level of performance, and some actually lose horse power.  All they consistently do is make noise................

  4. All of the larger cables are susceptible to this problem.  The longer the cable, like to the starter, the worse the problem because their length exacerbates the resistance issue, leading to larger voltage drops.  The only real trick to checking each one with either a multimeter or Power Probe unit (Power Probes actually have a specific setting for checking voltage drops, plus the Power Probe's long leads back to the battery make the testing process easier).

    • Like 2
  5. 40 minutes ago, spooltime said:

    This is a belated reply to document the resolution of my car's low voltage problem.  Replacing the cable between the alternator and the starter entirely resolved the issue.  As JFP correctly noted, apparently the cable I replaced had developed internal corrosion causing an increase in resistance.  It's frustrating when a Porsche dealer tells you everything is okay when you know it isn't.  Now having the requisite voltage flowing throughout the vehicle is a beautiful thing.


    👍Glad you got it sorted.  This is exactly why we always suggest running voltage drop tests on the primary cables, they are a known issue with these cars and even Porsche released "new & improved" cables to try and address the issue.

    • Like 1
  6. First of all, LN Engineering's IMS Solution is a LOT more than just an oil feed line; the bearing insert is a solid bearing (no moving parts) with annular oil passages just like the almighty Mezger turbo engines used, the IMS shaft is plugged to prevent oil accumulation and the balance problems associated by running the shaft full of oil, the replacement rear IMS flange is coated with a Diamond like coating for strength and longevity, and the oil feed is sourced at the oil filter to get clean, cool oil rather than where some others have sourced it.  Perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the Solution is that it never has to be replaced like other IMS retrofits, it is the ONLY permanent fix for IMS related headaches.


    We have never has any problems with the LN IMS Solution; it simply works, period

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1
  7. That is the steering angle sensor, which contains the clock spring on your car.


    You need to also be aware the code you have indicates you may have a harness short, which replacing the steering angle sensor may not correct.  More diagnostics are required, and if the steering angle sensor is the issue, the new one will need to be calibrated after installation.

  8. 43 minutes ago, beaks said:



    Quick one for you gurus out there - I keep getting the error code above...


    Have read a few bits and pieces on it, and to my understanding it's related to the 'clock spring' sensor that fits behind the steering wheel?


    The part isn't 'that' expensive to swap out, just want to be sure I'm swapping the right thing!


    Any thoughts / comments would be very much appreciated.


    Ian B


    2005 987S


    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:


    Sorry, but the clock spring is not the issue, it is the steering angle sensor:



    Possible fault causes
    - Short circuit to B+ in wiring harness
    - Short circuit to ground in wiring harness
    - Short circuit between the signal and ground lines of the rate of turn sensor
    - Open circuit in electric circuit
    PSM(TC/ABS) control unit faulty
    Calibration of the steering angle sensor must be performed on a
    measuring platform. The steering angle sensor must be calibrated
    after work has been carried out on the running gear in the area of
    the front axle. The security code is required for calibration of the
    steering angle sensor. The security code is read with the PST2
    under menu item "Actual values". Calibration is described
    in⇒ Rep. Gr. 4560; Calibrating steering angle sensor.

  9. 1 minute ago, jack hulne said:

    No fuel pressure in the engine compartment as I get no fuel pump run. One question I have, is the fuel pressure regulator controlled by the FRC that some have mentioned located on the relay tray in the rear and if so does it also control power to the fuel relay under the dash? If it switch issue can you replace just the mechanical switch or do I have to have the key reader, ECM and Immobilizer?


    No, it is located on the fuel rail and is a mechanical device.


    The ignition switch is a cheap  electrical part of the key assembly that requires no programing to replace.  It is a pain to access, but controls ALL electrical functions in the car:




    A DIY how to here: How to change 996 ignition switch electrical section


    Be sure to buy the factory part, aftermarket versions are notoriously bad..............

    • Like 1
  10. 35 minutes ago, jack hulne said:

    I have been fighting this for to long so hoping somebody may have an idea, thanks in advance for any and all input.

    My 1999 996 stopped when I pulled into a store, it wouldn't re-start right away and it drained the battery very quickly so I put in a new battery and the car started and drove home fine. Next weekend took the car out again and it died again after about 20 minutes, would not re-start and to date has not. Checked several sites all pointed to fuel pump so I replaced the fuel pump, next fuel pump relay still no fuel pump run? Crank position switch, replaced, cam position replaced. By now I have become frustrated and starting to second guess myself. When I jump the fuel relay I can here the fuel pump start but do not get any fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can spray starting fluid and engine starts so I have compression and spark. 


    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:


    Have you checked the actual fuel pressure?  You also have not mentioned the fuel filter or the fuel pressure regulator, both of which could be part of the equation. 


    I would also be looking at the ignition switch electrical section, a known weak point that causes all sorts of electrical issues when it goes bad.


    Good luck.

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