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Posts posted by JFP in PA
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I would first check the one you have to make sure it is not blocked from air flow by debris.
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The Durametric will clear it; I have no experience with the other tool, so I cannot comment on it.
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Welcome to RennTech
There is a sensor for the air bags under the center console that measures rapid deceleration, triggering the bags. Most likely, when the car was driven without the console reinstalled created this issue. I would have the code read and then cleared with a Porsche specific scan tool (disconnecting the battery will not clear it, it has to be done with the correct scan tool), and then drive the car to see if it comes back. If it does, wiring is not connected correctly; but I would be willing to bet it won't come back.
Good luck.😉
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I misread your original post, I thought the engine you are looking at came out of a Boxster, which cannot be a 3.6L.
Porsche has used more than one design chain for the IMS over the years which are not interchangeable as the gears and chain rails are also different:
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1 hour ago, jons said:
I am only considering the short block. All the Variocam stuff is in the heads, which I am reusing (after a refresh) from my M97.
I believe the M96/03 is from 2002-2004, and would be a 3.6L.
The question is whether this block would work with my 3.4L heads if there are any other complicating issues.
Sorry, but the 2002-2004 Boxster S engine was a 3.2L, not a 3.6L. later models got a 3.4L engine, but there were no 3.6L M96/97 Boxsters from the factory, although there was a 3.8L 9A1 engine in 2015-2016 "Spyder" model. You can interchange 3.2 and 3.4 cylinder heads within certain bounds and caveats: Both engines need to have the same cam drive systems (chain styles and number of chains varied over model years).
986
- 1997–1999 2.5 L (2,480 cc) 204 PS (150 kW; 201 bhp) 245 N⋅m (181 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six "M96.20"
- 2000–2002 2.7 L (2,687 cc) 220 PS (162 kW; 217 bhp) 260 N⋅m (190 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam) "M96.22"
- 2003–2004 2.7 L (2,687 cc) 228 PS (168 kW; 225 bhp) 260 N⋅m (190 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M96.23"
- 2000–2002 3.2 L (3,179 cc) 252 PS (185 kW; 249 bhp) 305 N⋅m (225 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam) "M96.21" (Boxster S)
- 2003–2004 3.2 L (3,179 cc) 260 PS (191 kW; 256 bhp) 310 N⋅m (230 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M96.24" (Boxster S)
- 2004 3.2 L (3,179 cc) 265 PS (195 kW; 261 bhp) 310 N⋅m (230 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M96.24" (Boxster S "50 Jahre 550 Spyder")
VEHICLE ENGINE TYPE MY ENGINE NO. TECHNICAL DATA [2] BOXSTER M96.20 97 V 65V 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,5L /150 KW BOXSTER M96.20 98 W 65W 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,5L /150 KW BOXSTER M96.20 99 X 65X 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,5L /150 KW BOXSTER M96.22 00 Y 65Y 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /160 KW BOXSTER M96.22 01 1 651 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /162 KW BOXSTER M96.22 02 2 652 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /162 KW BOXSTER M96.23 03 3 653 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /168 KW BOXSTER M96.23 04 4 654 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /168 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.21 00 Y 67Y 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /185 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.21 01 1 671 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /185 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.21 02 2 672 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /185 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.24 03 3 673 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /191 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.24 04 4 674 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /191 KW
987
- 2004–2006 2.7 L (2,687 cc) 240 PS (177 kW; 237 bhp) 270 N⋅m (200 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam) "M96.25"
- 2006–2008 2.7 L (2,687 cc) 245 PS (180 kW; 242 bhp) 273 N⋅m (201 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M97.20"
- 2004–2006 3.2 L (3,179 cc) 280 PS (206 kW; 276 bhp) 320 N⋅m (240 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M96.26" (Boxster S)
- 2006–2009 3.4 L (3,387 cc) 295 PS (217 kW; 291 bhp) 340 N⋅m (250 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M97.21" (Boxster S)
- 2007–2008 3.4 L (3,387 cc) 303 PS (223 kW; 299 bhp) 340 N⋅m (250 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "M97.22" (Boxster "RS 60 Spyder Edition", Boxster S "Porsche Design Edition 2")
VEHICLE ENGINE TYPE MY ENGINE NO. TECHNICAL DATA [3] BOXSTER M96.25 05 5 615 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /176 KW BOXSTER M96.25 06 6 616 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /176 KW BOXSTER M97.20 07 7 657 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /180 KW BOXSTER M97.20 08 8 658 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /180 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.26 05 5 625 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /206 KW BOXSTER "S" M96.26 06 6 626 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,2L /206 KW BOXSTER "S" M97.21 07 7 677 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /217 KW BOXSTER "S" M97.21 08 8 678 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /217 KW BOXSTER "S" RS SPYDER M97.22 08 8 668 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /223 KW
987 II
- 2009–2012 2.9 L (2,893 cc) 255 PS (188 kW; 252 bhp) 290 N⋅m (210 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.20"
- 2009–2012 3.4 L (3,436 cc) 310 PS (228 kW; 306 bhp) 360 N⋅m (270 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.21" (Boxster S)
- 2010–2011 3.4 L (3,436 cc) 320 PS (235 kW; 316 bhp) 370 N⋅m (270 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.22" (Boxster Spyder)
VEHICLE ENGINE TYPE MY ENGINE NO. TECHNICAL DATA [4] BOXSTER MA1.20 09 9 __9 00501>99999 6ZYL/2,9L /188 KW BOXSTER MA1.20 10 A __A 00501>99999 6ZYL/2,9L /188 KW BOXSTER MA1.20 11 B __B 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,9L /188 KW BOXSTER MA1.20 12 C __C 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,9L /188 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.21 09 9 __9 00501>99999 6ZYL/3,4L /228 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.21 10 A __A 00501>99999 6ZYL/3,4L /228 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.21 11 B __B 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /228 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.21 12 C __C 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /228 KW BOXSTER SPYDER MA1.21 11 B C_B 50501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /235 KW BOXSTER SPYDER MA1.21 12 C C_C 50501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /235 KW
981
- 2012–2014 2.7 L (2,706 cc) 265 PS (195 kW; 261 bhp) 280 N⋅m (210 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.22"
- 2014–2016 3.4 L (3,436 cc) 315 PS (232 kW; 311 bhp) 360 N⋅m (270 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.23" (Boxster S)
- 2014–2016 3.4 L (3,436 cc) 330 PS (243 kW; 325 bhp) 370 N⋅m (270 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.23" (Boxster GTS)
- 2015–2016 3.8 L (3,800 cc) 375 PS (276 kW; 370 bhp) 420 N⋅m (310 lbf⋅ft) water-cooled DOHC 24-valve Boxer flat-six (VarioCam Plus) "MA1.24" (Boxster Spyder)
VEHICLE ENGINE TYPE MY ENGINE NO. TECHNICAL DATA [5] BOXSTER MA1.22 12 C __C 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /195 KW BOXSTER MA1.22 13 D __D 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /195 KW BOXSTER MA1.22 14 E __E 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /195 KW BOXSTER MA1.22 15 F __F 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /195 KW BOXSTER MA1.22 16 G __G 00501>60000 6ZYL/2,7L /195 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.23 12 C __C 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /232 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.23 13 D __D 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /232 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.23 14 E __E 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /232 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.23 15 F __F 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /232 KW BOXSTER "S" MA1.23 16 G __G 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,4L /232 KW BOXSTER SPYDER MDB.XA 16 G DBX 00501>60000 6ZYL/3,8L /276 KW
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1 hour ago, jons said:
I snapped a rod bolt in my '07 Cayman-S (a "money shift") and I'm looking at replacement options.
A local shop has a brand new short block, but its labelled "M96/03AT" - which I think is the block for an early 2000's 3.6.
Would this work with my heads (M97, Variocam +)? What would be different?
Is it correct to assume that a newly remanufactured factory motor would have the latest IMSB?
The price makes it very compelling but not if I have to do a bunch of work arounds to get it to work.
-js
Your engine is a VarioCam+, a 2000 engine would be a 3.2L and carry the earlier VarioCam system. Which IMS is in the engine would be determined by when it was rebuilt, 2002-2004 it would be the single row serviceable bearing; 2000-2001 could go either way, any earlier and it would be the dual row serviceable bearing; 2005 or later would have the oversized non serviceable bearing.
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9 minutes ago, Ubuster1 said:
Can the front hood be popped and left unlocked over the winter months Or will it kill the battery?
It doesn't need to be left open, simply buy a quality battery maintainer like Ctek, plug it into your cigarette lighter socket, run the cord out thru the cut out in the bottom of the driver's door (there for this exact purpose), and let the car sit for months (locked with the alarm on) without any issues.
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There is a tab in the fuse panel you can pull out and attach a 12V jumper to:
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3 hours ago, Fly Navy said:
Probably stupid question but where is the engine number? I have 2000 996 with 58K miles and am trying to determine likelihood of dual-bearing IMS. 2000 was the transition year. So thankful for your help.
Welcome to RennTech
Unfortunately, as noted above, 2000-2001 were transitional and could have either a dual or single row bearing. Equally unfortunate is all the internet garbage about being able to determine which style bearing would be in an engine of this vintage from engine numbers, VIN, production dates, phase of the moon when the car was built, etc.; all of which are complete nonsense. The ONLY to know which style is in the engine is to take it apart and look.
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11 hours ago, creekman said:
I put the car on the lift and removed the belly pans... I was hoping that would find the source of my stinky gas smell once the belly pans were removed.
Nope, no stains on the belly pans and no wet hoses. So I guess the next step is to check/replace the fill pipe check valve and or the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if the check valve is stuck open will the car run fine and could be the source of my gas fumes...
If there's a problem with the check valve will it show up on my Durametric program?
Thanks,
Unless something codes, Durametric won't see it.
Before ripping the car apart, open the front trunk, remove the battery cover, and have a sniff about; we haven often see problems with the top area of the fuel pump assembly involved with gas odor issues.
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That is entirely your call. You will need to change the master cylinder over to provide brake fluid for the clutch system, pedal set, run new hydraulic lines from the clutch pedal to the clutch, shifter cables , shifter, electric switches for the clutch cruise release, back up lights, reprogram the DME (it will be looking for the Tip and will code without it), etc., etc.......... And when you are all done, the VIN will still say it is a Tiptronic car, lowering any resale value.
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15 minutes ago, Skipd1 said:
Yes, I was just hoping that LN Engineering may have come up with a different line to clear larger bars. I hate to purchase a sway bar set and find out I have clearance issues.
Thanks for the response.
skipd1
It isn't the line, it is were the fitting exits the bellhousing. The line is flexible and can be moved, the fitting's exit position is determined by the flange on the rear of the IMS shaft, and cannot be moved.
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Depends upon the size and shape of the bar; the 996 sway bar is close to the Solution fitting coming out of the bellhousing. I'd suggest you measure your clearance with the factory bar in place so you know what you have to play with, and then look at the diameter and position of the bars you are considering. From experience, some clear and some do not, even when they are from the same manufacturer, so it is a bit of a crap shoot. Another idea would be to contact your local PCA to see what others have had success with.
Good luck with this one.
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The EVAP cannister and associated valves in the wheel well by the gas filler neck:
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And that part # 948-105-180-02 retails for just under $175 (US).
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Welcome to RennTech
, and your English is fine, and much better than our Greek!
It probably caused by oil pressure bleeding down from the hydraulic tensioner's in the VarioCam system, which do not cost that much, either in Euros or $.
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10 hours ago, Amber Wells said:
I have a 97' tip Boxster with a blown front seal and unfortunately, I broke the clutch basket on the axle while trying to remove it from the case (**** YouTube tutorials, didn't think it through). I was planning on replacing the bushing and seal with the oversized one and getting my oil pump machined so that the bushing would fit.... But now I have broken even more parts in my attempts to fix it.
SO! I have a parts car that is a 98' manual Boxster. How realistic is a conversion from tip to manual? I would be doing it with the help of a few friends.
Auto to manual conversion attempts are a fools errand. You will need to literally tear the entire car apart to do it; parts, even out of the junk yard, will cost way more than the car is worth.
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2 minutes ago, G B said:
I confirmed by using, as well as a reputable Porsche indie, the Pentosin CHF 11S works well without issue. Also Pentosin CHF 202 works well if you cant find the 11S. A friend whose had his 911 cab much longer than I uses John Deere trans/hydraulic fluid and it works well.
Welcome to RennTech
Amazon carries CHF11S in stock.
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14 minutes ago, Ubuster1 said:
Your correct the buttons on the key remote are used to unlock and lock along with trunks are working fine. The Key starts ignition fine but it won’t open the door.
Thank you JFP.The car's keys should match the ignition and door lock mechanically, and the obviously do not. Problem is that Porsche uses a very unusual key type, so I do not think re-keying the door lock is a practical approach, and you will end up replacing both locks to get everything to match.
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Welcome to RennTech
I will assume that when you say that opening is done with the key that you mean it is done using the buttons. If that is the case, the immobilizer is working, but not the key. Probably at some point, either the door or the door's lock was changed, which is why it no longer matches the key. Unfortunately, the answer for this is going to be pricey, as in order for the key to work the door, the immobilizer, and the ignition, you will probably end up having to replace the door and ignition locks, keys, and reprogram the car to accept the new keys.
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4 hours ago, rich59901 said:
Yeah, I've read all about it. This one came from Hemet CA in the dry heat and didn't get driven for 4 years,,The CV joint is fine.Tight and no knocking..It's a pricey replacement just for a boot..I'm still searching for a split boot..
Didn’t use a split boot, that is asking from trouble; pull the axle and replace it with the correct part.
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1 hour ago, rich59901 said:
Anyone have any experience with using CV Split Boots on a 03 986 and know of a source to get them? Good,Bad or Indefferent?
Welcome to RennTech
Common Boxster problem, worse with the S model due to axle shaft angles. Boot replacement is also a common, if messy, DIY project.
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Glad you got it sorted. 👍 Problems like this are more common than you might imagine 🤢
Help with Renntech rims on BMW
in Forum Comments/Suggestions/Bugs
Posted
Welcome to RennTech
ALL Porsche's use this style bolt, and they are available in longer lengths.