JFP in PA

4 hours ago, Jayrasheed said:

Any chance you can post the tuning flap rpm ranges and function

The article above lists the rpm ranges for base and S engines in the 987.

Try posting your request in the required radio code forum and you will get a response................................

Lost radio codes

It is an alarm armed indicator.

E6 fuse is for Term.30 Telephone/Handy, Navigation Control Unit, ORVR (1999-2004). ORVR stands for onboard refueling vapor recovery system, which is part of the EVAP system, which has multiple electric valves in it:

There isn't the kind of debris I would expect from a serious failure, but that rather large ferrous item bothers me, from your photos I cannot say what it might be, but I can say it should not be there................

3 hours ago, sadseattleboxster said:

To be clear, you recommend removing the whole pan or only the bottom plate..?

 

From what I understand (which is minimal) the oil pan/sump is 2 (or more?) pieces. The deep metal pan has a flat floor plate and they can be separated...?

 

Maybe I'm wrong there

The sump cover is a relatively flat plate held in place by bolts around its parimeter.......................

22 minutes ago, rsfeller said:

Been out of the P-World for some time and we are thinking of picking up another 986/7. When doing my research on the over discussed IMS discussion there is only one piece of info I'm not seeing in the 101 articles and videos I've watched. 

 

Can one tell the double vs. single (say on a 2000 base) from looking at the cover on the IMS when the flywheel is off...or does the IMS 3 bolt cover need removed for proper identification? A bit confused on how to tell w/o going full into pulling git out. 

 

Thx. 

LN Engineering has covered (with photos) how to identify which bearing you have by examining the flange cover without removing it: How to identify which IMS bearing

Rather than see the oil, I would like to see the sediment at the bottom; if it is metallic and ferrous (picked up by a magnet), you have a serious problem.  Another place to look is to drain the engine oil and then pull the sump cover as it would collect such debris.

Try this:  Porsche TSB 6924 Seat belt

Just be aware that Porsche considers TSB's part of their intellectual property, and will go after anyone publishing them online, which is why we no longer list them on RennTech 😉

Yes, you will be able to time without this tool; the tool just makes the process very slick.  Porsche engineering sometimes shows up more in their service tools......

45 minutes ago, steve_wilwerding said:

The fill plug for mine is right by the half shafts - I don’t think that’s the right area. 

WHT 001 937 is the correct part and both the fill and drain are the same.

1 hour ago, headdead said:

The tool in the upper left holds the cams prior to removing the cam cover.

The tool in the upper right holds the cams after the cover is off, allowing them to turn and be timed, i think.

What does the tool in the lower center do?  Is it used for both 5 and 3 chain M96 engines?

 

If you are referring to the one with the knurled shaft, it is used to move the cam during reallocation.  The upper right image are designed to hold the cams in place after the cover is removed, but can also be used during reallocation. 

21 minutes ago, 1947verns said:

Guys, thanks for your comments. What would you recommend as a good plugging, capping mechanism and material?

We have a collection of various size rubber caps that are fuel resistant that we use for this and other temporary purposes such as capping brake lines to keep the system from draining:  

10 hours ago, 1947verns said:

In preparation for dropping the engine out of my 1998, the fuel line connector was disconnected as was instructed in the "101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster" and "The Porsche Boxster Service Manual". It notes that a small amount of fuel would leak. In my case there has been 3 gallons and it was still draining. I had to reconnect the connector to stop the fuel from flowing. Prior to disconnecting, the battery cables were disconnected, the C4 fuel fuse was pulled and the gas cap was on then taken off to see if that had an effect. Nothing slowed the fuel from flowing. What am I missing? Any ideas as to what is causing the continuous flow of fuel?

It is called a "siphon".  We always capped the line to prevent this.

Get the battery tested.

Amazon sells them, as do almost any auto tool outlets, very common tool in just about any well-equipped shop:

Unfortunately, it is very easy to trap air in Porsche systems, and getting it out is just about an everyday question here and on other Porsche technical forums.

27 minutes ago, enzo66t said:

It was with the job they did above. But the light was present before any of that.  I lifted the clip on the reservoir to leave the vent open and have driven it a bit like that. Would thar clear any trapped air ? 

Perhaps, but the best way to remove any trapped air is with a vacuum filling system, which can be used on an already full system to "burp" out any air. 

Both problems point to a dead or partially dead hole, question is why?  Pull the plug and look at it, if it is black and sooty, it isn't firing consistently.  Question then is why, the EVAP system is incapable of killing a single cylinder, so it is something closer to that cylinder (coil pack, plug, injector, harness and connections, etc.).

In order to do any tests on this valve, you need to get access to it, so by that point you might as well pull it for bench testing. but that valve malfunctioning should not cause a single cylinder misfire on cylinder #6.  Are you completely sure you don't have a coil/plug/injector issue on that hole?

12 minutes ago, ziggyrama said:

I've traced the wire through a loom that travels down the left side of the car and up behind the dashboard; there is continuity from PIN 7 to that spot under the dash, but doesn't seem to be from there to the valve. Without any way to really trace it behind the dash, I don't know where the short or cut may be. Any thoughts? Are there any plugs between there and the valve that you are aware of? Thank you

You need to get a wiring diagram for the car to find that out.

27 minutes ago, Ridgeracer said:

Thank you this worked! Amazing help and support!

Consider becoming an contributing memeber..................

Not if there is also a short  on the same wire.  Test for continuity and presence of ground on each wire while the harness is disconnected from the DME and the sensor.

1 hour ago, ziggyrama said:

Thanks for the advice.
 

Now that the weather has cleared, I was able to resume testing and the voltages test fine. I’m at a loss now as to what to check for next. 

But did you test the wires between the sensor and the DME for continuity or shorts to ground?  Your code is for an open circuit, indication of a wiring discontinuity. 

26 minutes ago, slotsmd said:

Thanks for your inputs, my dipstick is the 014 03 OEM part with the red tip so I'm pretty confident I have the right part. I'll get that pan pulled and check in there. Seems there must be something in the way preventing it seating and that would explain it.

BTW, I no longer live in Leonardtown, although Salsa's remains a family favorite (we used to hit that place pretty much every Sunday after church!). We now live in Solomons down near the CD Cafe, and my dad volunteers at the Museum... Tiki Bar grand opening the weekend of the 21st!

My wife and I are major contributors to the museum's river otter program, and we also both volunteer as time permits with us living several states away. And when you get a chance, try Salsa's second location just up the road in Lusby, definitely a favorite.  Small world..............😉