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I had intermittent problems with headlights all the time until I replaced those harnesses. Then all problems ceased. I didn’t have much trouble getting them out of there but I did crack one holder a bit. Still seems ok. Just slide them to the side if I remember correctly. No special tools needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks everyone for your responses. This has been a big help. Although I still have to decide whether to replace or get a new aftermarket with Car Play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Another question: it sounds like you replaced it and all was fine. Is that the case? I was concerned it might be a wiring problem and replacing it wouldn’t do the trick! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. I kinda thought so. Do you have a source suggestion for a rebuilt one? That would be a more known good unit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For some reason the head unit with the navigation completely restarts itself. Sometimes when it comes back on the display looks normal but there is a low hiss and regular pop sound about every three seconds coming through the speakers. It seems I can jiggle it (screws are now out) and make it restart again and come back on and functioning as normal. Has anybody experienced this? It happens whether the fiber optic cables are plugged in or not, although of course I can’t hear the audio effect. It’s simply darkens and brings back the display and backlight. On its own.
You made my weekend! Thanks for reporting.
I've checked the SAIs. The filters and impellers are fine. Yeah, it is quite easy to check. Just that center screw. And OH! I see. It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do. It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing! Makes sense now. Thanks a lot for this info! I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test. New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts. Then it came on and sure enough, the fuse was blown. What I'm finding is that I also have a vacuum leak so the brake booster vacuum pump is running (It's relay is also on this 5A circuit). So, I think just everything (SAI, vacuum pump, electric coolant pump) coming on at the same time when it is cold is just spiking the draw through that one fuse (plus the low-er battery voltage on cold start due to sitting (there is no other drain, checked that for an hour at shop) and cold oil I suppose). I checked the current TO the relays and found it to draw 0.15A when the vacuum pump goes on. To be expected. All the relays draw about that much. So I can't imagine how these 3 perfectly good relays are spiking it to over 5A even when all go on at once. But the indication is that this is so. Maybe the inductive load or something, I don't know. I'm going to fix the vacuum leak and get that pump to stop going on and see if that solves the problem. I saw somewhere else someone saw a spike up to 6A on this circuit. I have put a 10A fuse in there for now but I am not sure what could be damaged if it goes above 5A and why only a 5A fuse. A "slow-blow" would be nice but I don't think they make those for cars. Thanks everyone for all your input. I'll carefully do that drive cycle 2x and report back if I get through the smog check.
Wow, thanks for the info! Almost like I am supposed to have a regular job and drive it to work!! Well, I don't think I have been fitting that pattern. So I will give it a shot. I have another question for you guys. Well, two. Am I right to assume I can drive it, warm it up on the highway, stop somewhere and shut it down, start it up while still warm, drive home and shut it down, let it cool off? That also being a drive cycle? I did try a couple cold starts before it warmed up and it blew the 5A fuse that runs the relays for the SAI and coolant pump. This fuse was blowing all the time (turning on engine light) until I found my battery was weak and failed the test. New battery, replaced the fuse, reset codes, no more engine light... until this attempt at starting (4 times) cold. After warm-up I replaced the fuse, cleared it, no more engine light. Any idea why that would blow that fuse (which only drives RELAYS)? I figured it was just high current from low voltage from a low battery. Maybe the case again? Just wondered if you have any other theories. Thanks again for the drive cycle info. And the gas tank info! Amazing. 2006 Cayenne Turbo Just noticed... why is this in the Boxster forum? Can it be moved?
Haven't tried again yet. I'll give it a few days and see. I mean at the department of motor vehicles they will usually give you more time for an issue like this... one that is only a matter of time before it is fixed. You'd have to request the extension from them if it isn't resolved by the time yours is due.
The dealer here in Newport Beach says they can reset that particular "readiness" item and it would cost 1hr ($185). Otherwise drive it and eventually it will get there. The local mechanic/smog tester guy said it depends on the number of cold starts, which I take to mean it isn't mileage, but starts that will get it there. You can always just pay the registration fee and avoid late charges but get a smog extension... but just get it tested right before you go in. It might have gotten there by then. But if you want to be sure, take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hr. I would think EVERY dealer would be at least a little cheaper than Newport Beach, CA.
I have exactly the same problem going on right now. Just last night the mechanic told me everything passes except that the secondary air injection is not ready. He says just have to go through some more cycles of cold starts. I know that it only operates on the cold start. So I am hoping it will regenerate. I cleared my codes with the tester that I have. Recently replaced the battery which solved some other problems and now it no longer blows The five amp fuse which was shutting off the secondary air injection and causing the engine light to come on with the related codes. Hopefully it will just be a few more days of cold starts and all will be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've searched far and wide and haven't found an answer for this. I know how they are supposed to work. The button sometimes controls the situation and sometimes doesn't. I've taken apart the ceiling console. The switch looks and seems to work fine. The plastic is all in it's proper place where the button hits the circuit board. Both sides of the footwells and the door armrest backlighting go on and off at exactly the same time. Flickering. Seems to be affected by ride (e.g. speed bumps, driveways, aggressive driving). I attached a video. Anybody ever had this experience before? Any ideas? I sure would appreciate any experience or knowledge out there about how to fix it or even just about where to look. IMG_9948.MOV
Thanks. I think I did see some DIY on youtube about rebuilding this exact diff. I did try the fluid change and no diff! Still had the noise. There were actually beautiful swirls of brass colored fine grains in the old oil. So THAT can't be good. I do wonder where exactly that metal is coming from. Maybe the bearing is shot and the gears are misaligned & wearing? Cuz I don't think bearings are made of that color/alloy. I put in the redline oil. Still making the same sound. Sightly worse a couple thousand miles later. Any idea what exactly would produce that color metal shavings? I'll ask my local guys that are probably the ones to install it whether they think the health of the replacement can be determined. I'll report back. Thanks again.
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Hi. The title is probably self explanatory. If I get a used diff, is it just plain risky, or can it be understood whether the thing is one of the good ones or not before I replace my noisy one with it? Much thanks for any insight.
Thanks. Yes, I wouldn't worry about it except that I live in California and have to get it to pass smog to get it registered. They will require it be fixed. I did test the impedance of the pump the code indicates is faulty and it shows continuity, so no blown out pump according to the troubleshooting steps in the factory service manual. And the pump looks totally fine physically. Nothing has fallen apart. I'll try the relay and see what happens. Just wondering if one being out could affect the other one by just shutting down the whole system in the computer. I know this happens with the cornering head lamps. One burns out, the other stops working.