GranburyChuck

Has anyone tried the VTX performance (Vertex Auto) HID light conversion. My halogen bulbs are going out and need replacing. Just wondered if anyone has tried this kit for $269?

The radio, A/C, and headlights were on at the light. Temps have been around mid-50s here in the morning. So not real cold, beautiful weather to drive with the windows down.

Hey guy's, I've got a 2000 996 C2 Tip with 103k miles. Just replaced the alternator 2 weeks ago due to bearing going out. I never paid much attention to the voltmeter but before it would typically sit between 12 and 14V when driving. Well, I have been paying more attention and notice that when starting the car the volt gauge drops all the way down to about 10 then as the car starts up runs up to 14V. Car starts right up no issues there. I just wasn't sure about the voltage dropping that low. After initial 14V run car settles in right about the middle of 14 and 12. Last week I had to sit at a light for 30 minutes. Voltage went from about 13 (usual running) down to right above the 12. Is my battery going? So can someone watch their volt gauge when they start and see if it drops down to 10. Thanks

Allright fellow Renntechers...I have posted this question several times and gotten no response. I'll try one more time before I commit. I have a 2000 996 C2 w/ 103k miles. Intermittently I was getting the P0420 and P0430 code by my Durametric system. I attempted to look at the voltages but couldn't display them correctly thus couldn't figure out what they meant. Now the CEL comes on daily after I reset in the evening. At any rate with 103k miles I assume it is time for new oxygen sensors. Maxspeed Motorsports is selling an OE (plug and play) type for $340 for all 4. I have e-mail requests out to Sunset and Suncoast to see what they come up with. Autohasz has BOSCH for $372. Has anyone tried these O2 sensors from Maxspeed? Next on the list is my catalytic converters. Loren indicates that at 100k is about time for a new catalytic converter anyway. So I have two options: OE style or aftermarkert sport style. I have seen the ones from Maxspeed w/ 200 cell for $900. FVD has some for ~$1100. ZTek has some for ??? don't remember but these were 100 cell (don't think I want to go that low as my understanding is OE is 400 cell). So, question is, has anyone tried these sport cats from Maxspeed or anyone else? Any CEL problems??? Please respond I assume I need to make the plunge soon and want to make sure I don't make an expensive mistake. Thanks all, this site has been most helpful. Visit it everyday to see what's up!

Hey Kirk, thanks for the pics. I am going to try something similar with a set of 5 1/4 MB Quarts up front. I was going to angle the tweeter like you did but thought it would look odd as you have found out. I am thinking of putting it into the air vent trim closer to the front window. Give me some separation that way. Have you had yours playing? Is the driver tweeter overwhelming?

Don't know if you have seen this recent posting but there was a thread showing that a rebuilt 3.4 motor was about $12k from the dealer. I assume that doesn't include all of the peripheral stuff on the motor. Something used like this personally I would only give maybe $4k for, typically I would pay less than half for something I cannot get a warranty on and not new. I am not sure about the tranny. Good luck in your endeavors. I for one appreciate your enthusiasm to delve into the unknown. Although, I really enjoy my 996 these are just cars and are not worth getting all upset about.

Sorry, can't help you with that. I am going to change my alternator tomorrow. Your scaring me that I will have the same issue. Was it hard to get the alternator out?

Thanks I will look for shorts. I have the same issue. Where is the sensor? Durametric can't reset these codes, can it? Mine doesn't that I can tell.

Hey all, I have a 2000 996 without door speakers. Currently there is a storage pocket where the door speakers would be. Does anyone know if the panel for the door speakers would fit in the same location? Is there some baffling behind the speaker? I bought some MB Quart 5.25" component speakers for the dash and the rear side panels. I wanted to supplement them with a woofer in the door panel. Either that or was thinking of building a custom sub box for the passenger footwell and putting a 6.5 or 8" sub in that location.

Beware of jacking under the engine. That puts the load on the motor mounts which can make them leak. I had been jacking by this method then noticed an oily, coffee colored liquid dripping out-motor mounts.

Thanks James, appreciate the help. I read your string before. Did you have a big pulley where the bottom alternator bolt goes? I just looked at it this morning and it looks like this pulley bolt lines up with where the bottom of the alternator is. Also, to release the drive belt turn in clockwise direction? Then to return it to tension turn in the same direction? I would assume they would be opposite?

I need to replace my alternator and was looking for a DIY reference here. I have a 2000 996 C2 Tiptronic. I have found several references to a DIY but have not found the actual article. Can someone help? Thanks

Turns out it is the alternator.

Hey all, 2000 996 C2 Tip with 102k miles. Noticed a slight turbine sound over last couple of weeks. Not just at start up. Matches engine RPM w/ or w/o transmission in gear. Listened to the engine running but couldn't audibly locate it. So I suspect a pulley somewhere on the engine. Anyway, I was thinking that maybe I should do some preventative maintenance on the moving parts. So I was thinking of changing the water pump and coolant tank. No signs of leak that I can tell and temps seem to be okay. Since I live in a rural area my main concern is having a failure then being stuck. So I look up parts on the internet and find them for about $600 (w/p, gasket, thermostat, coolant tank, new cap, some rad fluid, polyrib belt). Read DIY on W/P and coolant tank. Although kind of a PITA, doable. Dealer said $980 for W/P and $730 for coolant tank but DID NOT recommend I do this unless I am seeing it leak. Thoughts? DON'T fix what isn't broken or FIX it before it lets you down in BFE!

I've got a 2000 C2 996 Tiptronic with 100k miles. Couple of days ago I noticed a whirring sound while the engine was running. Almost like a bearing going out. Sounds almost like a small turbine in the back of the car (it's not the emission canister). I have a leak in the power steering rack which I need to repair. Checked the power steering fluid and it was below the mark. I had to add some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF fluid to get me through the day. Sound did not go away. Anyway, I know I need to replace with Pentosin and will get it from the dealer or online. However, I still have the leak on one of the boots. Has anyone replaced just the boot? I spoke with the Porsche dealer and he said they don't bother repairing them because success rate was too low. They just replace the rack for $700-1000 in parts. I noticed that I could get a boot from Pelican so assume it can be replaced. I guess there is probably a seal that would need to be replaced as well. Anyone? thanks

I have had the same problem as you and the others mention. My perception is that there is something wrong with the lock-up portion of the torque converter. I think solenoid 4 controls this. My fluid has been changed by the dealer. They checked it and level was okay. got the P0740 code after a couple of track days. Cleared it and never see the code in daily driving but the slight downshift persists. Another member justed mailed me that he was going to have a tech drive with him with the computer connected to see how the solenoids were working.

I am having the same problem with all the wood trim on my car. The front defroster pieces were totally gone so I talked to my dealer about it. He said that the part was $700 per piece (need 2). There was an option to replace it with just a painted part which I got for $60. The dealer said that these parts are made to order and there is typically no stock available. He indicated that Porsche will not begin a production run until they have enough orders. Anyway, vent is cracked as well and realizing that it will just happen again I will probably go with a painted part. My door handles are breaking apart. My steering wheel has a lot of cracking. Wonder if it will just desintigrate in my hand one day while driving.

Depends on the sound I would think. I have a slight ticking noise and so does a friends 993. After a little while the lifters fill with oil (pump up) and the noise goes away. My friends 993 noise remains (lifter going bad). However, to me, a rattling sound is different than a "ticking"noise I associate with a lifter. I wonder if the chain tensioner is going bad? I assume they pump up like they did on older 911s (after '76). That being said, chains will stretch and it is the job of the tensioner to take up this slack. Porsche says they last a lifetime but I don't buy that. After your out of warranty they don't really care how long it lasts. I have 99000 on my 2000 C2.

KevinMac, I was considering the RE960AS as you said but they are not approved by Porsche. I was trying to stay with what they approved. However, since I have a wide temperature variation to deal with throughout the year I don't think it is feasible to have two sets of wheels and tires. Did you switch to the Bridgestone all around or just on the rears? Have you noticed any difference in handling?

Hey all, I have gone through several sets of rear tires in the 23000 miles I have had my 2000 C2 Tip 996. As typical, fronts last a long time but inner part of rear are toast in a short period. This is my daily driver and roads are okay (not extremely harsh). I ignored the Porsche mandate for putting their recommended tires on and replaced the rears with a Yokohama AVSES100. Okay tire but inners were wearing when I hit a chunk of metal and desintegrated the tire. In an emergency I had to replace with Falken Azenis at discount tire. These are worn in about 6000 miles on the inside and making a terrible roar. I replaced the fronts (previous owner had Cooper tires on them) with Goodyear F1 all season. I have to drive my car year round and the flat spotting from the summer tires seemed ridiculous for our north Texas weather (down to 0F in winter and up to 110F in summer). I noticed that the car feels as if I am being pitched from side to side when traveling down the freeway. It is just a very faint impression but one that seems to be there most of the time. It can be exaggerated by certain road textures. I found the TSB on this website for tire recommendations but notice that it has been superceeded and I don't see a new version (Loren?). Based upon price I think I will replace with Continental ContiSportContact 2 as these are recommended by Porsche and cheapest at Tire Rack. I don't really want to replace the fronts as well but the TSB from Porsche indicates unsafe handling if mixed tires are used. Anyone else have a problem with this? I have had to put quite a bit of money into little repairs in the year since I bought the car and the cost of new Potenza's or Pirelli's just doesn't make me too excited. Right now the car is in the shop replacing a differential seal and the front trailing arms (cause of wandering feeling?). Oh yeah, steering rack is leaking so will have to replace that. Oh yeah, P0430 code indicates I probably need new cats. Oh yeah...but I still have fun with it and feel pretty lucky that I have 98k miles on it and no "significant problems".

Hey all, got a 2000 996 C2 Tip with 98k miles on it. Runs very well no issues. Recently I have started to notice a ticking sound on start up. I think it stays there although somewhat lower sound after warming up. I assume this to be a lifter not pumping up correctly. That doesn't concern me terribly. What does is the occasional romp I have at higher RPMs I get a very pronounced harmonic vibration when I stay at certain RPM levels. Mostly goes away when accelerating\decelerating but comes back when RPMs are fairly constant at >2500. Normally, my drive is in full auto on the way home so the car rarely gets up to 3000. I know it is not a good idea to not "wring it out" every now and then. But when I run the RPMs way up this vibration really booms in the cabin. My assumption is that something is not right with a bearing. Anyone know a way to check this out? PS, no oil loss whatsoever. What I put in, stays in for full 15k miles until next oil change. Thanks

I paid $500 at the Porsche dealer.

A year ago I was looking for a 911 (my first one). I found a car in San Antonio (about 4 hours from me) and I spoke to the Porsche dealer about doing a PPI. When I spoke to them it sounded like they were just doing a visual and looking at fluids. I think they were going to run the car for codes. It sounded to me that this was pretty cursory inspection. I ended up going with an independent that did a much more thorough job including a leak down test for less money than Porsche. I spoke to several of my local Porsche dealers and they were all pretty much the same. For a few hundred bucks it was just a quick glance for them ($120/hour service rate where I live). Still I am not sure if there is an inspection cover to look at the clutch (may be I just don't know) so this may be something anyone would have missed.

Thanks Izzy, gave me a nice laugh this morning. Was it really that loud though? I drive mostly highway at cruising speed in 5th (tiptronic). I assume it only gets louder when you accelerate.

To calculate my mileage I used my odometer reading between fill ups and divided by the number of gallons at that fill up. The numbers were consistent over several fill ups since I do that 2.5 times in 2 weeks. Since I drive roughly 25000 miles per year doing the same daily drive plus a little extra and getting 22.5 miles per gallon with a gas price of $4 I spend $4444 on gas that year. (25000)*($4/22.5). Now if I do the same calculation and magically get my extra 2 mpg I have to spend $4082 (25000)*($4/24.5). So roughly a savings of $362. If the muffler bypass pipes Izzy uses cost $199 then within one year would easily pay for itself. Not to mention the fun factor. If you go to Fabspeeds website you will see how closed off the stock 996 muffler is. Anyway, I saw the results with my other cars so I assume some gains could be achieved on the 996. However, as 1999 mentions you must be frugal about the mods and see what achieves the best cost benefit ratio. However, we did not purchase this kind of car to just drive from point A to point B. So I assume we would all like to benefit from a little more fun.