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savowood

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Everything posted by savowood

  1. savowood
    If you have a lift in your garage, then you probably have the expertise and can probably do this on your own. Otherwise, I'd recommend having a pro do it. I don't mean the guys down at the Midas shop. You need to get a real Porsche mechanic to do it. This doesn't always mean a dealer. You can find great P-car mechanics all over the place who aren't at the dealer. -Michael
  2. savowood
    I'd recommend leaving it the way it is, and strongly recommend using the rear fog light only when the conditions call for it. It's very bright and is completely unnecessary unless you're putting up a spray of rain water, seriously thick fog is floating around, or maybe heavy snowfall and it's hard to see. Using it in "normal" conditions is just a bad idea. There's a lot of evidence to support this. So much that in Germany, it's a very expensive ticket if you're running with your rear fog light on and there's no fog. When I was in the army in Germany, one of my American friends got pulled over three times for using his rear fog light when the conditions didn't allow. At least one of those times, he lost his license. However, we Germans are much more serious about driving and the rules applied. Some places in the US they're equally vicious, but it's usually the infraction of the week. One week it's expired inspection stickers. The next it's tail lights out. The next week it's proper usage of lights (turn signals, fog lights, headlamps at dusk, etc.). -Michael
  3. savowood
    It really depends on you. I've seen folks with R compound tires who were still not that fast. I've seen people with "regular" tires who were faster than those people. With your sway bars, links, and coilovers, you're probably already putting a fair amount of stress on the oiling system. Consider the X51 oil pan as your next upgrade when you put R compounds on. -Michael
  4. savowood
    Talk to Aaron at Suncoast. Tell him I sent you. 877-923-1700 http://e-partssales.com/ -Michael
  5. savowood
    This is a loaded question. We really need more details like the price range you're looking for. If I could afford it, I'd love to mount the Red 1 in there and get 4k resolution, but that would cost more than my car. Personally, I go for the Aiptek. It's cheap, gives me an HD picture, and it fairly easy to cart around. The file format is usable by just about everyone. It comes with editing software if you're using a PC, and if you're on a Mac, iMovie reads the camera directly. -Michael
  6. savowood
    Suncoast should be able to sell it to you as well and they're in FL. I've been putting GS 610 in lately. I typically get it from OG Racing. -Michael
  7. savowood
    Every once in a while, under circumstances I can't quite yet determine, when I turn the car off and pull the key out, my speakers emit a howling sine wave for about 5 seconds or so. It doesn't happen every time, but it happens a few times a week. The car is my DD. It has been doing this for the few years I've owned it, and it's finally getting to be annoying enough where I want to do something about it. Details: 2000 Boxster (non-S), US model, lots of stuff done to it as far as performance mods, but this problem existed while it was still bone stock. -Michael
  8. savowood
    Every customer they've ever had. -Michael
  9. savowood
    Your earlier post stated: Which is it? I see the confusion. The "low to mid 60s" and "Coasting, low 90s" numbers were referring to m.p.g., not m.p.h. The previous sentence to the second item you quoted refers to m.p.g. and I thought the reference would carry through since it clarifies what was meant my 30 m.p.g. When I wrote it, I thought there might be confusion, but decided against it because of the proximity to the reference. Hopefully this clarifies what I meant: In gear, speeds around 70-75 m.p.h., I was seeing mid 60s in m.p.g. Coasting, maintaining around 70-75 m.p.h., I was seeing low 90s in m.p.g. -Michael
  10. savowood
    You can leave the storage compartment between the seats open, or not latched, and the horn will sound when you lock the car. It does on my 2000 Boxster. However, if you have something else not latched, you won't know it. It sounds the horn to let you know something is not right. -Michael
  11. savowood
    I understand your point, but the difference in speed wasn't more than a few m.p.h. I was trying to keep it at around 70-75, and true, the car accelerated in both cases due to gravity. There were points where the car was going faster when coasting, and points where it was going faster when in gear. Overall, the speed was fairly constant. I suppose I should try this again, but maintain one speed the whole way down the hill. I can use the cruise control to hopefully maintain the speed while in gear. I'll have to be very careful to use the brakes to keep the car at that speed on the second run. I'm going to the track again this Friday, but it's only a one day event. If I have time, I'll go down the hill, turn around, go back up the hill and try again. I'll let you know what I find. -Michael
  12. savowood
    I'm not sure I understand what's going on here. My observations have been different. If I coast down a hill, clutch in but also a gear selected, I typically accelerate down the hill due to gravity, and make up quite a lot of ground using fuel at idle. There's a hill on the way to the track where I have to keep touching the brake to keep from hitting 90+ since there's occasionally a trooper at the bottom waiting for people like me. :D For curiosity's sake, I've reset the fuel mileage reading on the computer on two consecutive days going down that hill. The difference I saw was impossible according to John V's comments. The difference was about 30 m.p.g. on the whole of the hill. It's about two minutes to go down it, and the reset was at what appears to be close to the same spot. Leaving the car in 5th gear, I saw low to mid 60s. Coasting, low 90s. I've done this twice, switched the order the second time, and got a similar reading. I try to keep about the same speed going down the hill. The car in 5th gear is running a few thousand RPM, and coasting is about one thousand. I understand the logic for both arguments, but my completely unscientific testing is pointing hard to the opposite of John V's argument. Where is my test going wrong? Is the hill too big for what this thread is trying to convey? -Michael
  13. savowood
    I've never used that particular muffler, but it shouldn't be too difficult. You have the clamps after the cats, then again before the muffler. In my case, there's a length of pipe between those two. Then, the clamps connecting the back of the muffler to the support bracing on the cats. Finally (I think), there's the connection with the clamps above the muffler. Those will suck a lot. You're going to find new curse words to describe the engineers who designed those connections. It would be a whole lot easier if you could just flip the car upside down. ;) If all goes well, you won't have to bend your own pipes. I have a muffler I'm going to install as soon as I get the pipe sections bent. I think the Stebro will be fine since it's so small. Even the top bolts will be a breeze since you can actually see them as opposed to the stock muffler. -Michael
  14. savowood
    Try the slave cylinder. I just did mine and the problem is better. I haven't been on track with it yet, but will on Friday. It does feel better though. -Michael
  15. savowood
  16. savowood
    For typical daily driving, I doubt you'll notice much of anything. You may corner a little flatter, but honestly I doubt you'll be able to perceive any change. -Michael
  17. savowood
    Glad you got it done, Gus. The stiffness is normal. From having done it on other cars, it does get looser over time. For now, it'll be a bit stiff. The one on my Boxsera is still pretty stiff, but it was only about a month or so ago that I did it. My Mazda, which I did a few years ago, shifts quite smoothly. -Michael
  18. savowood
    Pry it with a screwdriver. That's how I did it. There's NOTHING gentile about that part. -Michael
  19. savowood
    When I did mine, it was easier than I expected. Somehow I have a torx screw left over, but nothing is rattling, so I think I'm fine. I used the instructions from B&M, and was able to do it fairly easily. I also took the time to run my iPod cable a little better. I wouldn't fret doing it myself at all. I can turn a wrench on simple stuff, and am in no way even an average level of wrench-turner. I was able to install the shifter in about an hour I think. -Michael
  20. savowood
    This sounds like an issue I had on a Mazda. Based on that experience, I'd say you're running a bit rich and basically choking the engine out. I don't know what your fix would be, but take it immediately to a good P-car mechanic and have them look it over. It could be something very simple. -Michael
  21. savowood
    It takes longer to jack the car up, put it on jack stands, and remove the front wheels, than it does to replace the rotors and pads. I paid the labor on that particular job once. That was the last time. I can buy a set of Powerslot rotors ($170 or so at Tire Rack) and a set of Pagid or PFC pads (typically around $200) and install them myself in under 30 minutes. Paying $1200 for someone else to do it is not my idea of a Good Thing™. A job like this is far too easy to pass off on a shop. I'm happy to let them dig around in the transmission or engine, but the brakes are designed to be simple for the average Joe to be able to do. -Michael PS I'm not a mechanic, and I'm just average or less when it comes to using hand tools.
  22. savowood
    I replaced the oil pan with the X51 version. It has the baffles on it already. It fits in with no issue at all. The AOS problem still exists. You have to do more than just the baffles. -Michael
  23. savowood
    I'd love to head over to RennShop, but I don't think my clutch can handle the 3000 mile trip, especially across the Rockies. :) I found someone to do it for me. I bought the clutch from SPEC and it arrived today. There's a shop close by that'll do it for 6 hours labor. If I get my wish and move to Cupertino or San Jose, I'll certainly check out RennShop. -Michael
  24. savowood
    Ditto on those recommendations. I found a 99 3.4 on eBay to put in my Boxster for $3500. -Michael
  25. savowood
    Hi all After reading the extremely helpful article on replacing the clutch in the Boxster, I'm ready to do mine. However, I'm missing a few things. First thing I can think of is a lift. Then there's the alignment and other specialty tools. Sure, I have a set of ratchets and some torque wrenches, but that's really not enough. The biggest thing I'm missing is experience. Having never replaced a clutch in anything, I could really use an experienced set of eyes to help out. Is there anyone in the DC area who would be willing to help out? I'd like to get it done tomorrow so I can make it to the track Sunday. Yeah, I know, short notice sucks. Sorry about that. -Michael
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