Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

kbrandsma

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,103

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by kbrandsma

  1. kbrandsma
    I did Andy's upgrade and couldn't be happier. I went with 6 1/2 in the doors.
  2. kbrandsma
    In the front trunk, remove the plastic battery cover. Remove the cover and disconnect the alarm horn. The horn is to the right of the battery. Then find an Indy and/or dealer with a PST2 Tool or Durametric software and check for alarm codes. I had a faulty infared sensor (fault code 33, I believe) that was located near the interior overhead light. It was very easy to replace. Good luck and keep us posted. Regards,
  3. kbrandsma
    I pick one up at the local hardware store here in US in the speciality fastnr section at Lowes Hardware.
  4. kbrandsma
    There is a rubber grommet just above the gas pedal that leads to the battery tray compartment (moat). Cut an "X" in the grommet towards the top and run RCA wire thru from the battery side. Have a partner assist as to not push the rubber grommet all the way thru. Depending on all long your RCA cables are you can run under battery and into the trunk area where CD changer normally sits or take a shorter route into the trunk area by the brake fluid reservoir. Use cinch ties to neatly secure cables and use sealant to seal the cut in the grommet.
  5. kbrandsma
    You have a PM
  6. kbrandsma
    Contact Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, Oregon. Replaced mine 6 months ago. Quite simple.
  7. kbrandsma
    I started with the dash, then door and finally rear stock speakers. I would repeat if I had to. I also upgraded to a 6x40 AMP as Tool Pants and others suggest. However, the stock PNP-986-KIT are made to be powerd by radio. When I upgraded my 210CDR to a 220CDR Radio and now to a AVIC D-3, I switched back to the 4x40 AMP. Having had both the 4x40 and the 6x40AMP, an AMP switch is the last thing I would do. Any of the other three upgrades are worth it and in any order. They all should be done!
  8. kbrandsma
    If your stock 4x40 AMP system is M490. I don't think the M680 will work in your case. You need the M490 6x40 AMP.
  9. kbrandsma
    Once you get the wiring to the rear of the radio from the rear speaker kit you connect the wires to a brown plug that mates to the radio. Once the pins are inserted they are difficult to remove. If you later need to go from the radio to your new 6 channel amp, a harness is used that also mates with the brown plug and allows enough wire to make it to the trunk. Harvey sells the long extension harness that goes from the radio to the AMP. I paid $25 to get one from him. I have short ones that can be used if you have not yet inserted pins into the brown plug or you have a pin removal tool like Tool Pants suggests. Thanks for clearing that up for me! Regards, Maurice.
  10. kbrandsma
    I know that one 6 channel amp that will work is the 996 Coupe M490 (not sure of others) You may need a magnifying glass but the pin assignments for the rear speaker kit are: RL- 16 RL+ 6 RR- 15 RR+ 5 Use a wood chisel or exacto knife and remove this key from your 6x40W AMP. You will need the AMP adapter that attaches to the infamous brown plug. I have extra adapters if you need one. Enjoy your new AMP and rear speakers!
  11. kbrandsma
    In my 98 Boxster, once I removed the cage, the CDR 220 snapped right in. Very tight but the side pins locked. The CDR 220 is newer and I think looks better than the 210. The 210 buttons' paint tends to also peel a little bit.
  12. kbrandsma
    rahlstrom Tell me more about the foam installation in the gauge cluster cavity. What type of foam did you use?
  13. kbrandsma
    Are they heat resistant for the barbecue?
  14. kbrandsma
    Tool Pants - Can you give us a contact or link for the eBay kit?
  15. kbrandsma
    Hi Gus, Contact Sunset and order the correct replacement part(s). You will need to carefully drill out the old pop rivet and reinsert the new part with a new rivet. Pretty straight forward. Sunset won't deal with the pop rivets or the pop rivet tool, but you can get that locally at a tool store. A pop rivet tool is almost a necessity for other things. I recently replaced the visor inserts and the center frame inserts that holds the interior light, infrared security, and accepts the cabrio top. Having the pop rivet tool made it a snap. Karst I paid $1.69 each from Sunset Imports. Not that I ever did something dumb like breaking a clip. Guys, I need some help!!! I did something really stupid :( To install the camera mount I had to remove the roll bar padding in the middle. Guess what...I broke one of the two pins that attaches the part and the broken part as well as the rivet it attaches to are still stuck in the roll bar. Do I need a new part all together. Is there any way I can fix the mess? I will try to post some pics later! Thanks, Gus
  16. kbrandsma
    Here is the link to the keys needed to remove the radio. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=290256234878
  17. kbrandsma
    You've got a PM
  18. kbrandsma
    Good to hear!
  19. kbrandsma
    Hi Gabriel, You have a PM ****
  20. kbrandsma
    I have a CDR220 and need to replace a couple of push buttons. Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get a couple of them?
  21. kbrandsma
    I used the Targa Switch for my garage door opener hack. It is the bottom switch on the left. Any matt finish switch can be changed to gloss by using a high gloss clear spray. Several light coats does the trick. The part number is 996.613.155.00.A02 from Sunset and costs 26.13 plus shipping and handling. Regards,
  22. kbrandsma
    This might help solve your problem. The hose from the circled check valve goes to ruuber sleeve on the passenger side.
  23. kbrandsma
    Hi Gus, Jiggle and pull and it will come right out. Also when taking the center console out their are two small electrical connections, one for the light in the ashtray and one for your alarm to the back console. To get the last one just lift up the center console from the passenger seat to see the connection with a flash light and then reach up and squeeze the connection clip. Don't forget to put it back the same way. Once you get it out you can examine the end and notice it can only go back one way. Some try to pull the center console out to quickly and rip the console alarm wire. Regards and good luck!
  24. kbrandsma
    The vacuum hose plugs into rubber sleeve on the passenger side as shown in the picture below. Regards
  25. kbrandsma
    I replaced mine this past winter and got the same codes. Did you purchase Walker or Bosch O2 sensors? My CEL came on after several starts and the engine was good and warm. After about 5-8 starts the CEL went out and didn't come on again until 8-10 starts later. It has never come on when the engine was cold and never went off unless between starts. The gap has widened and the CEL hasn't come on in the last 30 starts. Here is a thread were others had similar experiences. O2 thread If you get it figured out let us know.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.