danish

I replaced the CDR23 HU with one of those Chinese (Seicane Android) unit. When I put the key in the ignition, the controls on steering wheel work fine, but when I start the engine, the controls don’t work. Also, I noticed that if I wait to start the engine (say 10+ seconds) after putting the key in the ignition, there is no sound from the Bose amp, but if I start it right away, it works. I also hear that thump sound from the amp when I remove the key from the ignition. The MOST adapter (in turn, the amp) wiring is getting power from the Canbus adapter. It is switched, meaning, it will not work unless there is a key in the ignition. Does it have to be unswtiched power connection? If so, any reason why? And could this tapping power from the canbus adapter in parallel causing the steering wheel controls to not work when engine is running? Sorry, I am not an electrical engineer, so some of these questions may sound stupid. Any suggestions, besides suggesting to replace the sh!tty Bose amp?:)

In MY04 CS when I turn the heat on, it is throwing cold air on passenger side while the drivers side is working fine. I have tried changing temperature individually for both sides, but no cigar. i read similar post here but it was more about air condutioner than the heater. I had this problem about a year ago, but it started working again after a few hours. Another issue is that there is no air coming out from front center ducts. This center duct problem somehow fixed itself for a short period of time in the summer when I was using A/C, but returned again. Any suggestion what could be causing these?

Yes, I noticed it last night as well:) It looks like a good product, but I can’t seem to find the option to order on their site when I viewed it via Google translation. They don’t seem to be selling via eBay, or Amazon, and such. Definitely want to find out if anyone else tried it.

I did consider using something like JL Audio’s XD600/6v2. The problem is that there is a lot of change that needs to happen if I understand it correctly. Running wires, putting in crossovers to match impedance, and or changing speakers to something like Focal. While I like to have better sound quality, I cannot justify the price difference for such an upgrade on a car that has 170k miles and is 14 years old and for the amount of time I will be listening to it. Replacing the Bose amp for $500 with three year warranty from Becker is a quick and easy solution for me. I am not too concerned about fading. But I read that there is a 4 channel MOST adapter from some russian seller that lets you fade. Can’t seem to find the link anywhere.

Let me give it a try. Was under the impression that both the amp and the CDC required removal of panels and is not fun.

MY04 Cayenne S. I was able to get B+, ACC, and ground from the Canbus harness. Everything seems to be working including steering wheel controls but the amp seems to be dying. I had CDR23 with Bose. With CDR23, sometimes the sound will not come from the amp. I had to change the HU regardless, but it seems that the problem is still there with the new HU. So I may replace the Bose amp with refurbished one that Becker sells with 3 year warranty. The only problem is how to get the amp out. From what I have read so far, it is not an easy job. If there is an easy way to get it out, I would be very interested in finding it out.

I replced the CDR23 with Seicane Android HU. It comes with Canbus adapter and I purchaed MOST adapter with it to make it work with factory Bose amp. The unit powers up fine, but the MOST adapter needs to have power to work. Any suggestion where can I connect the three wires listed in the pic to? I assume the main socket that was connected to the CDR23 has power, but don’t know which wire is which. How easy would it be to get power from lighter adapter aux? I am planning to replace that lighter adapter with USB port for the HU as well. Thanks

Steve How did you connect the MOST adapter. There are three wires, red, yellow, and black. Batt+, Acc, and ground. I am not good with wires (read electrical stuff). Any suggestion where to connect these to? The unit is powering up so the Canbus adapter is getting power.

I did not see any holes, just carbon deposits on joints. Will try to get some pics as soon as I get a chance and will post results of the experiment. Thanks

For TC I used D4 ATF. For diffs, I used 75w90. They seem to be working fine on my CS. Make sure you get the right type of oil. Diffs and TC use different type of oil.

I noticed vibration and hesitation accelerating from stop and at low speeds which seems to have improved, but did not disappear. I am planning to change the passenger side camshaft sensor as well, mainly because I purchased a pair. Another issue is starter overrun type high pitch sound that comes sometimes upon starting. The sound is not consistent. Sometimes it comes twice a day and somtimes once a week. No real pattern. This problem is still there and could be related to either fuel filter/pump or flexplate. Fuel filter is in my todo list but will be checking flexplate soon. Thanks Danish

I removed drivers side secondary air pump and the bracket to get to the Camshaft position sensor. It took a combination of u joints, 1/4 drive sockets and a flexible drive to remove the bracket. The space is really tight, but doable. The sensor I removed was really dirty with some grease/rubber like black sticky stuff on it. The rubber gasket was stuck in the hole and had to take it out as well. Attached photos showing the old dirty sensor, and the location where it is installed before and after cleaning, and the new sensor with a new gasket. I had a P0011 which has not come back after clearing it after replacing the sensor. I was not able to remove passenger side brackets as the space is extremely tight there. If anyone has any suggestion, please let me know. Thanks Danish

When I was working on transmission oil/filter change, I noticed exhaust leaks at various joints on both exhausts. Is there a recommended way to fix them? Should I replace the clamps and seals (any particular sealing I should get) at each joint, or should I go with something like muffler weld and or tiger patch? Thanks Danish

Thank you everyone for providing useful information. O-ring for the filter was the culprit as suggested by Brainz. It was broken when I removed the filter. I put the new O-ring inside the valve body this time and pushed the filter neck in and tightened bolts as Brainz suggested, by hand first, and then torque wrenched one turn at a time per bolt. Based on the recess on the neck of the filter and recent experience, I think putting the o-ring in the valve body hole is definitely more reliable, considering when I removed the filter for the first time, the original o-ring was not removed with the filter, but was left in the valve body hole. I was able get about 8-9 quarts in. I attached a 12 liter hand pump filled with 11 quarts and let it pump until the temp reached 40 C all the while changing gears a few times and keeping a bit longer at Park and Neutral. It did drip at various positions but when I was done I had about 1.5 quarts left in the pump. I think about a quart amount dripped during the refill. Shifts are definitely smoother and can't even notice down or upshifts anymore. Planning to do two more drain and refill without dropping the pan for the next two months to get remaining oil replaced. Thanks Danish

Thank you Brainz for detailed explanation. Will report back with results after following these instructions. I am using lift at the shop, so hopefully it is balanced. Thanks and happy 4th! Danish

Has anyone tried Seicane Android based systems? http://www.seicane.com/android-car-dvd-gps/android-porsche-car-dvd-gps-9 How does it comapre with other systems mentioned here? I am planning to upgrade to it and wanted to see if others have tried it recently and if so, which one. Thanks Danish

Thank you Brainz and JFP. I will try dropping the pan again tomorrow to check the o-ring on the filter neck. I am not 100% sure if I put the filter O-ring correctly so if any recommendation can be given, much appreciatd. Any particular way to put the filter back up? I did not push the filter up too much, instead let the bolts take care of it, while another person was holding it and I was putting the bolts in. Also, is the o-ring supposed to be all the way at the base of the neck, or at one of the groove above it? I left it at the groove where it sat fine. Final fill should happen on neutral or park or while changing gears? Some more info, I am now getting P0721 fault code as well. Is this due to the same issue or is the issue because of this code (something else)? I forgot to mention that I changed front and rear diff and transfer case oil at the same time. Although I doubt that it would affect tranny service, but wanted to point it out. For Diffs I used Redline 75/90, and for TC, I used Redline D4 ATF. Thanks Danish

I was changing tranny filter and oil, and everything was going smooth until refill time. I refilled via fill plug with about 2-3 quarts or less until it started to pour out. I put the fill plug back in, started the engine and started changing gears while another person was monitoring temp to refill. We noticed that temp was not increasing much, mostly staying at around 32 celsius. We decided to remove the brakes and let wheels spin. And guess what wheels were not spinning. First thing comes to mind is there is not enough oil there, so we take out the fill plug and oil starts pouring out. From that moment on, we tried everything from spinning wheels manually to changing gears. But the wheels don't spin and the dial shows that the car is in D. No matter which gear we the car in and try to refill, it starts to pour out very quickly. What could be going on? The oil that was drained was not that bad, it still had a bit of redness in it. No metals were found on the magnets either. All in all, was supposed to be a simple procedure which left the car dead. Any suggestion on what to try? Thank Danish

Thank you everyone. I will try to capture pics for the DIY this weekend.

Just the metal ones holding those pumps. They seem to be in place by three bolts. Don't know what bolts and what torque settings I need and it seems that I need some type of thin and long socket as they appear to be a bit deep.

I changed them second time at about 154k miles. First change was at about 70k iirc. I think they cracked way before I found out. So don't have a good estimate of how long they lasted.

Anyone has DIY for it along with tools needed for the CS? Thanks

Thank you Clarksongli. It is CS. I will be using Toyota Type IV for the tranny and yes your blackstone lab test is what convinced me. I am planning to drain and refill every 3 months until the drained oil looks clean enough, but without dropping the pan and then every 10k miles. How did you drain from the P/S reservoir? Using siphon or a pump? For fuel filter, I already bought one,but will probably order pumps and FPR and replace all of them in a single job as you suggested. Control arm bushings are all worn out. Definitely need new ones. Thinking about replacing control arm assembly for both sides rather than bushings. Low RPM vibration is there, will know how much of it goes away after replacing Torque Strut Mount bushings and installing new coil packs. If these don't fix it, I will try replacing transmission and engine mounts as several people have suggested that these hydraulic mounts tend to compress over time and it is a night and day difference once replaced. I had coolant pipes replaced with aluminum ones about 4 years ago. Water pump was never replaced, so definitely going to the list of things to order. Coolant Reservoir added to the list. Brake fluid flush added to the list. I did see very little oil on one of the coil packs, maybe a hair line of oil on one of the coil packs near the top (not near the plug). Not sure if it is due to the valve cover gasket. But the cost is low enough to consider adding it to the list. And considering coil packs need to replaced, adding a bit more work to get to the gasket is a good idea. Another thing I added to the list is Air Oil separator membrane.

Some folks suggested flushing the transmission, and I did watch the German video that ekstroemtj posted about flushing it on the Merc. Considering a DIY without that cool machine, would the following do? First drain, drop pan, replace filter, refill, fill it up at 40 degrees C. Drive the car around for how many minutes/miles? or can I just change gears while on the lift? This I don't know. Drain, and refill without changing filter and without dropping the pan Repeat Step 2 and Step 3 until clear fluid drains out? Any other step/task? A few concerns I have with this: Would it be too risky to flush due to metal shavings for a car with high miles (150k+ with no tranny oil change in the past)? There are no codes thrown. Car is 2004 CS. Or is equally risky to do the Step 1 above without Steps 2 and 3? How much oil do I need before it is flushed clean? (a bit stupid as it depends on how bad the fluid is, but a rough estimate based on experience by others will help me decide how many quarts to buy). Thanks

Thank you JFP and Loren.