Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'bose'.
Found 10 results
I replaced the CDR23 HU with one of those Chinese (Seicane Android) unit. When I put the key in the ignition, the controls on steering wheel work fine, but when I start the engine, the controls don’t work. Also, I noticed that if I wait to start the engine (say 10+ seconds) after putting the key in the ignition, there is no sound from the Bose amp, but if I start it right away, it works. I also hear that thump sound from the amp when I remove the key from the ignition. The MOST adapter (in turn, the amp) wiring is getting power from the Canbus adapter. It is switched, meaning, it will not work unless there is a key in the ignition. Does it have to be unswtiched power connection? If so, any reason why? And could this tapping power from the canbus adapter in parallel causing the steering wheel controls to not work when engine is running? Sorry, I am not an electrical engineer, so some of these questions may sound stupid. Any suggestions, besides suggesting to replace the sh!tty Bose amp?:)
I have issue with CR220 on 2002 Porsche Boxster Base, it didn't power on at first so here is the progress I made sofar - Read the blogs/youtube and removed the radio after purchasing the radio removal tool from Walmart (~$6) - Found the fuse behind the radio was blown (10Amp), replaced it with one from local auto store - now the radio is ON but prompting for **CODE**, thanks to Renntech got the code to unlock it - Entered the CODE now the radio seems to be working but NO audio !!! - Looked at the service manual and fuse details since some of the blogs pointed me to fuse box and the fuse for the AMP. - The 7.5Amp fuse was blown on the fuse box ROW D and Number 9 (D9). So while I am waiting for the fuse to arrive (from amazon) I - - had a 15AMP fuse handy and tried to insert it but there was a spar when I tried to do that !!!, guessing a short to the ground some where down the wires. - So started to remove Audio related modules from the front of the trunk. And found two Bose modules one seems to be the AMP big black casing with lot of vent holes. And there is another module don't know what it is. After I disconnected the wiring connectors from these modules I was able to insert the D9 fuse in the fuse box. So I am guessing there is something is wrong with the AMP or the other Bose module. Did you see similar problem ? What are these two modules for ? there 3 connectors going to these two modules. Any ideas on how to fix it or get it repaired (i don't know which one of these two has the issue or short)
Have a 2005 base package cayenne without the Bose package, like to know if the wiring is there to add the Bose factory subwoofer and amp for it. And would i also have to change the head unit to the Bose as well to get the full benefit of it. Dont want to go to all the trouble just to add a little bit more low end to it, but would like to know before i buy a subwoofer for it.
05 Cayenne base, standard original radio but wanting to upgrade so I can get touch screen bluetooth etc.... If I have the standard base radio, is that still a BOSE radio system (i.e. bose radio/amp, and MOST system?) I know I don't have the upgraded sound system but am not clear if I still have the same upgrade issues regarding the MOST system (seems like everyone refers to it as the Bose Most system or similar so does that mean the standard equipment is NOT-BOSE). Do I need the Most HUR 955 interface no matter what or is there a chance that the non-upgraded default radio does not require it? Thanks
Hi, I've recently obtained a Bose rear subwoofer deck for my 03 986 Boxster and like to get feedback as to the easiest way to connect to my CDR-23 with Haes 6chan amp (with MOST). Anyone done this, can it be done? Help much appreciate.
I have a 2008 Boxster S with PCM2.1 and Bose. I have ordered an isimple bluetooth adapter that has an FM antenna bypass. I know I need adapters for the antenna but I don't know which ones. I've searched all over google but all I can find are adapters for 2004 and older Boxsters. I don't know if the antenna is amplified or not and I don't know what type of plug the Bose unit uses. Does anyone know what I need to buy?
Fixxxer posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I have a 2004 Targa with the Bose upgrade. When I bought the car, one of the previous owners had replaced the headunit, removed the Bose amp, and had not reconnected the passenger footwell sub. I'm not a huge music listener in the car, so I'd like to remove the Bose subwoofer to get some more legroom back on the passenger side. However, I can't seem to find a carpeted trim piece to cover the hole that's left by the subwoofer. Does anyone know where I can find that, or have a part number? Thanks!
Hello, I am new to the forum. I have a 2006 Cayenne S which i love, however I can not enjoy it now because of a faulty PCM 2.1 ... During the end of the summer it was restarting from time to time (twice in a month or so). I thought it was overheating after reading this forum. Few month ago the situation got worse and the unit was restarting every hour. Sometimes it was impossible to turn it on for couple of hours/days. Now the PCM is completely dead and it's impossible to turn it on in any ways. I was hoping that it will be case of dry solder so I tried to reheat it with heat gun... However that did not help... Is there any chance to get CIRCUIT DIAGRAM ? I have a good friend which is an electrician, but he was not able to find the current/voltage leak. There is nearly impossible to get this unit fixed in Lithuania. Thanks, Fabian
The car is a 2004, Boxster S - 986, with "Bose High End Sound Package" option. This Bose system has the CDR23 head unit and an amp in the front trunk. There are left and right speakers in the dash, the doors and in the rear mounted speaker box. The rear mounted speaker box has two small speakers on the left and right and a large port in the center. I am a persistent person, but I am finally having to reach out for help. After several months of off and on searching for information, I finally decided to pull the trigger and replace the head unit in the Boxster. From reading an unbelievable number of posts on this and other forums, I was convinced that the best course of action was to circumvent the MOST system and replace the head unit and amp together. Contrary to most advice, I plan to keep the original speakers (at least initially). Wiring is the challenge. My thoughts were that I would replace the pre-amp wiring with new since that is where the MOST system is in play so this was a no brainer. I purchased a wiring harness from Crutchfield to keep the original harness intact. While it did allow me to keep the harness, it only mated to 3 wires (and Crutchfield had two of those wired incorrectly). Luckily searching this forum and using my multimeter, I was able to figure out what was needed for the head unit. Pulling the pre-amp wiring from the new head to the front trunk turned out to be easier than I was expecting and wiring the amp for power is a breeze since it is almost on top of the battery. Now, speakers. I thought this was overly complicated from the post and some extensive DIY posts that I read, but I pushed on. I hunted for days on end to find a wiring diagram that matched what I was finding in person and have still not found it; I have looked at numerous ones, but none are actually like mine. I have come to appreciate that Porsche has many ways to wire these things and it is almost like everyone is unique. Not having a wiring diagram that worked, it was pretty easy to separate the speaker wires from the others on the wiring harness that connected to the original amplifier. My plan was simple, put an audio source on each of these and map where sound comes out. The first unusual thing that I encountered was that there were only 5 speaker wiring pairs. I expected 6. As it turned out, two pair mated to the left / right dash speakers; two pair mated to the door subs; and the last pair drove both speakers behind the seats. This is odd and made me wonder if there is actually a subwoofer back there, especially with the large center mounted port and the fact that the visible speakers are very small. Has anyone else dealt with this configuration? Does anyone have a wiring diagram that matches this? The amp is marked as a Bose 996.645.333.05. I have searched for information without any luck. The pins are such that it appears to be a 5 way amp, but I would typically think that the single would drive a sub, but all the information that I have seen says that the door speakers are actually subs. My thoughts right now are to continue to treat the door speakers as subs. I am going to wire them in serial to get the impedance up. My understanding is that they are 2 ohms individually. I will drive the two dash speakers normally and then drive the rear speakers as a mono channel. Any experience and/or advice out there? Thanks