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Everything posted by efahl

  1. Reviving the newest thread I could find on this topic, just want to document the symptoms in case it helps others... Just finished mine, 1997 Boxster chassis, 2001 3.4 motor. The original AOS from the Boxster's 2.5 was on the 3.4 motor, it had the horizontal diaphragm chamber. The very slowly accumulating symptoms were hunting idle, stalled once at a light and driveability at low throttle became increasingly difficult (throttle control off idle was jerky and it felt like you were going to stall especially when cold). The final and highly diagnostic symptom was a 3-4 shift at redline resulting in a huge cloud of smoke in the mirror and the consequent "OH $HIT" moment. After the big puff, the smoke was fairly visible and continuous, but not thick. I got home, did the odd googling, which lead me to pull the J-tube out (plugged it on the intake manifold end) and the smoking stopped almost immediately. I also noted that the idle was smooth with the plugged J-tube, which simply reinforced the already obvious diagnosis. Got the new one, installed this morning in about 2 hours elapsed time, probably half of which was just cleaning off the accumulated crap on the engine (godliness is next to cleanliness :)). It's a pretty easy job, the only tricky part was re-installing the accordion hose clamp on the bottom (I couldn't find my big box of Real Hose Clamps, so I reused the spring clamp). Started the motor with the cover off, checked all my fittings and it looked good, so took it for a drive and wow the car was transformed. I can't believe how much the leak affected driveability, rolling off a stop smoothly is quite easy now and I'm surprised that I was so acclimated to the poor behavior that I didn't figure it out sooner.
  2. I completely concur. Summer tires lose grip when it gets cold, but so do all tires. I have driven my Bridgestone RE01Rs down at 20 F (on dry pavement) and they are much grippier at that temp, than say, the Pirellis on my wife's Ford are at any temperature. This hysteria about "summer" tires losing more grip than "other" tires is just nonsense. Eric
  3. Paul, Yes, they have a nice slot in the bottom and big holes for the shoulder straps. Here's a shot of the bottom slot with the bolster pulled out (all the seating surfaces are held in by velcro). Eric
  4. You absolutely should question my response, it probably is a resistor. I didn't look very hard (bad light, old eyes and crappy magnifier) and I'm not at all familiar with smt parts. :) My son the photographer has finally relented to pull out a pile of expensive equipment to take a photo. I can now actually see the color!
  5. I've been using a Deltran Battery Tender Junior for about five years and just love it. I recall it was about $27, but just did a web search and found them for $24. I might have to get another couple for various cars.
  6. So you got it out? What specifically worked, heat on the block?
  7. Will, How many miles on the chassis? Have you ever changed any suspension bushings or control arms? (I'm imagining a worn bushing or loose ball joint or something in one of the track arms...) Eric
  8. If you just need help putting miles on the car, you can probably find a volunteer or two here. :)
  9. I wait until they are on sale at my local auto parts store and pick up whatever 4-wire sensor they happen to have, cut off the connector and crimp it into the old one. Last ones I got this way were Bosch parts for a Ford Crown Vic or some such thing and cost me $27 each... My place doesn't advertise when they are on sale, so you have to call or ask when you are there.
  10. Probably because Amsoil is too small to bother with when people here in the US can get other stuff that they've already tested (Castrol, Mobil and so on).
  11. Ain't you afeard of them armadillos? Up here we have white tail deer, which can really mess up a midnight run.
  12. Too many customers giving them crap about the 20k change interval?
  13. If you go to your local hardware store, they will have an assortment of what are called "fender washers," which are perfect for this job (very big outer diameter compared to "regular" washers). If you have a really good hardware, they will have them in stainless. Eric
  14. I'm trying to reverse engineer the 2001 3.4 install in my 1997 Boxster chassis in order to be able to replace parts when the time arises. Looking at the parts catalog, I see the two big coolant hoses from the front of the motor to the tubes in the tunnel have a couple of date-specific variants, and am wondering if anyone can tell me if the different parts are due to chassis changes or engine changes. Specifically, do I need the old hoses because the chassis connections vary by year (and engines are all the same) or do I need the newer hoses because the engines are different (and the chassis are all the same). Here's a snippet created from the pertinent catalog page with part numbers, any help or comments appreciated... TIA, Eric
  15. Man, you guys are so paranoid! :) My wife and I drove our Boxster from California to Michigan with the following tool kit: 1) Cell phone 2) Visa card My garage has welder, air compressor, various grinders and cutters, hydraulic press, jacks, stands, steel to fabricate frame and suspension parts, engines laying about in various states of assembly, turbochargers, engine stands, hoists and all sorts of crap like that, but there's no way in hell I'm carrying any of that with me when I drive anywhere. Eric
  16. Joe, My opinions: the NA 3.4 is "pure Porsche" which is the big one for most people. You can take it to any dealership and they should know how to deal with everything they see, there're no hacked-in parts. A NA motor is lighter, no additional hardware is added to the car. The driveability is excellent, too, it's very tractable and just feels right. Cost of the 3.4 is far less than a proper force induction installation. In order to build a motor for use with either a turbo- or a supercharger, you should drop the compression ratio quite a bit below our NA motor's 11:1, lower the top ring on the piston and put in stouter rods. Adding piston sprayers is always a good idea, too, and this all costs money. A Boxster has limited room for charge coolers, so a good deal of fabrication will be necessary to get either air into the back for an air-air intercooler, or water up front for an air-water cooler. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of forced induction (http://www.not2fast.com/audi/maxq/), as the HP potential is truly amazing, but if done on a car that never had a boosted model, then you are definitely going to do a lot of work to design and implement a robust and driveable system. I've gone through a thought-experiment version of a Boxster TT and here's what I would do: 1) Get a low mileage 3.6 or 3.8. 2) Tear it down, blueprint the block, install piston squirters on the main oil galleys. 3) Knife edge and balance the crank. 4) Get new forged pistons with top ring at 10 mm below the deck. This probably drops the compression height, so... 5) New shorter, forged rods to accommodate the lower CH. 6) Clean up the ports, no need to port them out, just make sure everything is as designed. 7) Ditch the VarioCam and use fixed timing to simplify tuning. 8) Get some turbo-specific cams ground by a friend who specializes in such things. 9) A couple of GT32 (71 mm cold-side) turbos should work out about right. Hotside will be tricky to avoid lots of lag... 10) Fab some EMs out of 316 or Inconel. 11) Cut out the rear trunk and use the space for air-air intercoolers. 12) Get rid of the Bosch DME, use my own engine controls to run MAF or maybe speed-density, depends how I feel at that point... At 21 psig boost, such a setup would be good for about 550 HP. Eric
  17. Got it... http://blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
  18. I have had fuel lines and suspension springs fail in exactly this manner on at least five different vehicles (Fords, Audis, VWs) over the years and am not surprised to see this failure on the brake line. Every time I see rubber-wrapped steel I cringe. Take a look at the fuel lines where the rubber isolators hold them to the chassis, you might see some more rust and incipient failure. Eric
  19. Mine's not radiator roughage, but I ran over a small dead deer and it left strips of meat on the various protrusions on the belly of the car, with a particularly large one on the rear bar. I had some very nice organic venison jerky when I finally got under there to hose things off. (The deer also ate the front engine cover, my thanks to Sunset for the new one that just arrived 10 minutes ago!)
  20. From reading the MY97 wiring schematics, I'm going to guess that the regulator is indeed a "smart" module and that the swap would probably effect the desired result. The diagrams show that there are no intervening programmable modules between the switches and the regulators, and that the comfort feature is activated by its own wiring, which leads me to believe that the one-touch features are indeed part of the regulator electronics. Eric
  21. Is this useful? http://www.cannell.co.uk/911_72-89_Worksho...op%20Manual.pdf
  22. Maurice, Beats the heck out of working, which has prevented me from much wrenching on my "new" car... :) Anyhow, thanks for the hint about aligning the bottom of the brackets. I'm thinking when I get around to doing this that I'll press my photographer son and his camera$ into service and maybe make a diy page of it (it'll prolly take longer to format the page and photos than to do the regulator install). Eric
  23. Just caught this thread... There are about a million on-line calculators for tire diameter out there, I wrote one that lets you see similar sized tires and how much they vary from the nominal one in percent and speedo effect... http://www.not2fast.com/chassis/sizing.shtml HTH, Eric
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