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Paul Fraser

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Everything posted by Paul Fraser

  1. Paul Fraser
    Pokey, that made me laugh out loud! You should write science fiction, mate.
  2. Paul Fraser
    I have been doing the upper level ones myself with a OBD2 reader (as above the occasional P300-303 and the less occaisonal P304/6, which always come up when it is idling -- probably on average this comes up once every three-six weeks for the last few months); are there deeper codes I would need a Durametric or somesuch to get?
  3. Paul Fraser
    It had a new paper gasket as I had it off before and broke it the last time :) The throttle butterfly has been cleaned and sits slightly cracked open. I'll get the hose off and photograph that tomorrow. I presume if it was an ignition coil problem this would throw a check light?
  4. Paul Fraser
    OK, 12V applied one way closed the metal shutter completely and the other way opened it completely so I presume this is working ok? In the unpowered position it is like in the photo attached. Started the car (first time in a couple of days) and the idle/revs seemed normal, slightly higher than usual, 1000-1100ish. After a very short run the idle was back to where it normally was in terms of revs 800-850ish and quality, lumpy. Can I rule the ICV out and, if so, what's next?
  5. Paul Fraser
    Thanks for that. I'll whip it out and put 12V on it -- does it open quickly/completely?
  6. Paul Fraser
    Symptoms as above on a '97 996 with 58000 miles. Have already cleaned the ICV and throttle body as per a couple of posts on here. What is next? Could the ICV be needing replaced? At £250 a pop it's not something I'd like to try on spec, but I presume they eventually wear out to the point that you can't sort them by cleaning them? PS Had a look for leaks while the throttle body/air filter housing rubber was off. PPS The car is also occasionally throwing P300/301/302/303 codes at idle (once a month or so) which I presume is a grumbling variocam solenoid, or is this maybe related? MAS recently changed on due to previous check lights (a non-consistent mixture of the above and some P304/306 codes but the latter seem to have stopped post MAS change).
  7. Paul Fraser
    Yeah, it was. I only just managed to get clearance on the rim of the wing and couldn't shift the nut. Looks like I'll have to take the whole strut out, which makes me wonder if I should replace the shocks at the same time. They seem ok, but 10 year old car, 60000 miles (need to check my paperwork, they may have been replaced 2002 iirc).
  8. Paul Fraser
    Picked up a pair of these on Saturday and one of the techs said I could change them quite quickly by undoing the sway bar and the three top bolts and then hooking the top of it with a wire loop and pulling down. Anyone done it this way -- I don't want to take the shock strut out as I don't have a bearing seperator (needed according to the WM) or time (hopefully moving out of my house in three days)? I assume you would have to take off the bolt connecting the piston to the triangular plate and other top gubbins before pulling down and then remove it and the spring? I belive the spring isn't compressed much, if at all? TIA.
  9. Paul Fraser
    Are they both the same? What about the stop (19) on 811-13?
  10. Paul Fraser
    Wish I'd known -- I'd have offered to come and hold your spanners.
  11. Paul Fraser
    Think it's called a DIN connection. The harness in the car is a two part plug that goes into A and B in this diagram: http://www.jother.com/kenwood/becker.jpg The top socket is for the CD changer in the boot.
  12. Paul Fraser
    Jimmy - I don't suppose you are near Glasgow are you, I'm thinking of doing mine this year... :)
  13. Paul Fraser
    There might be something in the TSBs for an alarm modification. Worth a look.
  14. Paul Fraser
    Guys! Can you reply without all the quotes? It makes trying to read the thread a nightmare!
  15. Paul Fraser
    Related link, although it is for a Boxster: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=18357&hl= I'll post a photo of the part when I get the chance.
  16. Paul Fraser
    OK, I'll give it a go. Thanks to you both.
  17. Paul Fraser
    Eddster, that sounds like your door membrane needs replaced. Had this on my 996 and currently have it on my Boxster. Have a search on here there is a how-to either on site or linked to.
  18. Paul Fraser
    OK, changed the lambda sensors, checked the air inlets and exhaust for leaks, put some injector cleaner in a fresh tank of petrol, cleaned the MAF and it passed, though only just. So I wonder which one it was. FYI, changing the lambda sensors was a nightmare. They seemed to be stuck solid, but fortunately my uncle (whose pit I was using) knew a garage owner who is semi-related and we ended up at his on Sunday afternoon watching him repeatedly heat the probes with oxy-acetylene. Three times for the nearside and twice for the off. Once he managed to crack them he left us to it. Still very hard to release them. Not helped by the fact that a 22mm spanner was too loose to turn them and we had to use mole grips (corrosion of the nut I guess). Am going to look for a mini-oxy-acetylene kit as it seems to be the only way to get these really stuck bolts etc. to move. Will post the OBD2 readings I got off the old and new sensors for other's reference when I get the chance. PS 0.008% CO, 20ppm HC, Lambda 1.29 Still seems to be running a little lean.
  19. Paul Fraser
    Thanks. Do you think I'll have to take off the inlet manifold to get at that?
  20. Paul Fraser
    Title says it all. I've had a replacement part lying around for about a year and half now. Looked at the Parts Catalog and the Manual, and even peered about the top of the engine bay but no luck. I suppose it is hidden under the throttle body and engine air inlets...?
  21. Paul Fraser
    If it is the same as the 22 series, when you first switch it on it will come up with **** on the display. Enter your four numbers using the numeric keys below the screen and it will clear.
  22. Paul Fraser
    OK, more on this: got my OBD2 reader up and running and found that I can get readouts on the sensor voltages, short and long term fuel trim figures. Can anyone give me advice on what the results mean or where I can find out, thanks. PS found out some useful info on what the lambda sensor does on Wikipedia.
  23. Paul Fraser
    The centre pad has a hook at the top. Pull the centre section upwards to release it and it will fall forward. My post on this thread (third one I think): http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...650&hl=seat
  24. Paul Fraser
    Had the same problem 1.142/1.098 against a 1.030 pass. A few questions... My CO/HC were 0.016/000% and 13/6ppm which is virtually nothing, so I assume this means all the fuel is being burned, so what is the lambda value actually showing...? Secondly, what readings do I need to be able to pull off the OBD-2 serial cable I have. Will I be able to with this OBD reader; if not which one will provide the information. TIA.
  25. Paul Fraser
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4650
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