Costa

I guess I was incorrect about the LHS + RHS versions then :oops:

I'm not sure if the Caymen will affect resale value too much/if at all....as the car does not seem to look like a 911 rather it tends to be more akin to a Boxster - especially the rear end (from the spy shots that I have seen). The silly thing about all this, is that basically the Caymen will be a hardtop Boxster which will cost more than its counterpart Boxster convertible. That's like having a 997 convertible priced cheaper than say a 997S. The most dissapointing thing that Porsche have done with the new 997 is to introduce the base model 997 - The base model should have been the 997S to differentiate it better from a 996. As a 996 owner there is no incentive to even think of upgrading to a 997 unless it is the S model. If you are an owner of the X51 package then even the 997S is not an incentive. Roll on the 998 +

I could be off track here (Loren may be able to verify), - but I think the PSE switch is only available as a RHS version. Not all of the switches are available in both formats.

"why not fit ALL 911's with the PSE except for those with noise regs" COST $$$$

DME fault #1-3 variocam This a reported fault indicating a problem with the varicam and not a fault with the DME as such. - Probably due to the oil leaks!

To pass Noise Legislation/Regulations in certain countries. You will find that the PSE is technically illegal in some countries as the car will not meet their noise regulations for new vehicles if fitted as standard.

Welcome to the Board :cheers: I think I can state this without any reservation - I don't think any of us had any sleep the night before we picked up our first P-Car :D

Thanks for the info. - I will try and not start my car when dangling on the end of a crane hook. :D It is interesting about the Aerobatic plane scenario - they must have some fairly foolproof lubrication setup on those motors.

No problems starting the car - I was just curious if oil starvation could come into play on startup if the oil pickup(s) were starved of oil. I do not really know how the oil system works in a M96/7 motor as it is not a true dry sump setup. (Sounds like I need to do some reading up on this topic) A few times that I have parked on an incline, the oil gauge sometimes reads no bars and I have thought 'what if?'....

Just curious - If you park your vehicle on an incline, the oil level on the dash will obviously be incorrectly read which is quite normal... Can parking on a steep incline cause a problem with oil pickup when starting a M96/7 motor? ... Or does the wet/dry sump setup of the M96/7 engine minimise this issue.

Yep... The bumper is the GT3 one. The lip on a GT3 though, comes standard in a Black finish (unpainted I think)

Here are 2 more shots which tend to show the lip....

This is the front of my Facelifted C2 with the Tequipment Aerokit CupII Kit includes New Rear Decklid with spoiler etc Sideskirts New Front Bumper Lip for Front Bumper Plus mounting componentry Unfortunately I ordered the kit with the car when new, so it was fitted at the factory. I have removed the lip, and it does remove and install very easily.

Arthur, I would get an expert opinion from an expert paintshop etc... It could be that the clearcoat has been affected by a chemical process eg. if you purchased your wheels/vehicle second-hand, the previous owner may have utilised a wheel cleaner that may have affected the clear coat over time.

He He - Tounge firmly planted in cheek!

OOps my mistake.. :eek: 1 Quart = 1.1Litres (approx) - for some reason I had 250 mL stuck in my head... You are right in that 1 litre of oil every 1500 miles is excessive.

As far as Burning/consuming oil is concerned - Do you do many short trips in your C4s or tend to take longer trips? The reason I ask, is that I read in my Porsche 996 manual that many short trips/frequent start-stops etc tends to cause moisture/acids etc to build up which tends to supplement the oil level. Note that most motors will use some small amount of oil over a period of time. If you are only doing the short trip/frequent start scenario, then the oil level may seem to the user as if it is not changing due to the buildup of moisture/acids etc. replacing the consumed oil...This manifests itself as "my car does not use any oil". If you then take the same car for a long drive and get the oil up to the correct operating temp, the motor will tend to burn the moisture away and after the drive it will look to the user as if the car has used a substanial amount of oil - but in reality the majority is just moisture etc which has dissappeared and was effectively displacing the correct oil level. FYI My 996 uses approx. 200ml per 5000Km's or so - I'd say that 1QT every 1500 miles is within the engine's tolerance levels. 1 quart wrt to approx 10litres of engine oil is relatively minor.

I am sure the TSB's and other various manuals were just given to Loren for free :jump: This is the only Porsche forum that I have contributed to, as I find Loren's site the most Technically accurate and informative and I don't have to put up with threads going on about what the weather has in store for tomorrow or that someone's pacemaker has failed and how do I restart it etc etc.... I can tell you that my car is the major beneficiary from info on this site. We can always purchase our own TSB's/Manual etc for a significant cost....- Nah...I'll just keep contributing to this site. :clapping:

Do a search for 'horseshoe' to locate a few other threads on this topic. BTW it is very simple to remove.. I just used an old butter knife which I wrapped the blade with some insulating tape to prevent scratches etc. Starting from one of the lower corners gently prise the plastic trim piece away from the dash then work your way around the perimeter - It comes off quite easily. The switches and lighter etc come away with the trim piece as these have latches which are easilly accessed once the trim piece is removed from the dash.

RJMDAD996 - You are more than welcome to post on this forum :) but keep in mind that Renntech is primarily a Technical based Porsche forum where you will find a lot of accurate in-depth technical information on Porsches - with a focus on the 996 series. Users generally come here to find information on a problem etc and/or to post any technical findings/information they may have which will benefit others - and every now and then post a pic or 2 of their ride... There are many other Porsche forums which usually contain general discussions etc and I also regularly post on a few of these - but when it comes down to Tech-Talk - Renntech is the go - Just ask the other forums :D

Ideally a lead acid battery (12v nom) should be held at a float voltage of 13.8v. When charging a battery, this can go upto around 14.6v depending on the charge current. The faster the charge ( the higher the charge current) the the higher the terminal voltage will be under charging conditions. When you place a load on the battery the terminal voltage will fall immediately unless the battery is being charged at the same time. A fully charged standalone battery (ie not connected to car etc) when connected to a heavy load will drop its voltage to around 12.5v and stay around that voltage while still holding charge. As it starts to go flat this voltage will start to slowly start to taper off and when it reaches about 11.0v the battery is considered as flat and requiries a charge. When a battery is used in your car it is constantly kept charged by the alternator. With a minimal electrical load and a fully charged healthy battery, the alternator should maintain a terminal voltage of 13.8v. If you turn on your lights and as many electrical items you can think of, the voltage should drop slightly when the car is idling (no less than approx 13v though) If you keep the revs up say at 2500rpm or higher, the alternator will supply more current and the voltage will creep back up to 13.8v but no more. As you have noticed though, the voltmeter sometimes reads slightly higher than 14v. This will tend to only happen when the car is cold. This is because the alternator (when cold) will run more effeciently and due to some minor temperature variations in the voltage regulator circuit (in the alternator) it will supply some excess current which tends to slightly fast charge your battery. As the engine heats up and so the alternator, you should notice the voltage drop to a steady 13.8v when driving indicating it is operating correctly. If you run the car at idle RPM the voltage will drop slightly depending on how much electrical load you have on the system because the alternator tends to operate correctly at RPM's slightly higher than idle eg >1200RPM or so. This all assumes you have a good , fully charged battery. You will see greater fluctuations in the above readings if the battery is suspect. At no time should the meter drop down to 13v or less or go higher than 14.5v with your engine running at say > 1500RPM If the voltage falls too much, this will tend to indicate a faulty alternator or a really dead flat battery. If the voltage is too high then it is a possible voltage regulator fault in the alternator.

Might have to see where they have mounted the sender for a 997. Another place I was thinking of, is at the end of the dipstick. I remember a few years ago, an electronics magazine published an 'electronic oil temp gauge' - It was simply a bargraph type indicator. What was unique though, was the sender unit which was manufactured by VDO and it was in the form of a dipstick which just replaced your stock dipstick and the wires just appeared at the top of the dipstick handle. The actual sensor was constructed within the dipstick and positioned right at the tip. The 996 dipstick is quite thin, but technically it seems feasabile that a temperature sensor could be housed within the 'end bit' which measures the oil level. Obviously the external dimensions of this aftermarket dipstick would need to be identical to the stock item. HMMM I'll have to think a little more along these lines....

Loren - I have been thinking of adding a small engine Oil temperature gauge to my 996. Not sure where the sender could be connected to (if feasable at all) - How easy does it look as far as adding a sender unit somewhere on the motor - maybe tee'ing off the existing pressure sender location? Thanks Costas

It will be difficult to end up with an accurate list. There seems to be many instances whereby an 'RMS Leak' is touted as being the cause of an oil leak but in-fact the oil leak can also be caused by a faulty IMS (Intermediate Shaft) seal or even the intermediate shaft flange bolts. It looks like there have been a number of engines returned for warranty repair under the guise of an RMS Leak when in fact the oil leak was being caused by one of the other issues mentioned. Porsche have even issued a TSB on this. (refer TSB section). So when people mention RMS Leak - you usually have to drill down further to obtain an accurate cause of the leak - in many instances the owner may not be correctly aware of the cause due to mis-diagnosis by a repairer.

Could be your parking tag as the interior Infrared sensors are mounted within the interior light assembly next to the mirror. The 2 black looking oval shaped pieces are the windows for the infrared sensors which monitor the interior cabin space for movement etc. - Your tag might be interfering with the infrared signal with the tag being very close to the sensors. You can disable the interior sensors when you arm the alarm system by pressing your key fob button twice instead of just once - you should get a quick chirp to indicate this status.