Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Costa

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    139
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Costa

  1. You can see in this photo what the tool actually does - If you look close to where the red dot is, the tool rotates the bar which extends horizontally beneath the headlight assembly. The kink in the bar in the middle is actually where it engages the headlight assembly. The tool might not be engaging correctly - you may want to have a look down the hole before inserting the tool with a torch etc.
  2. I don't really want to think of my 996 as a 1940's Beetle..... :lol: :lol: :lol:
  3. Here is a photo of my X74 suspension components before they were installed. Note the coloured marks on the springs as Loren mentions.
  4. I have noticed this on my '04 as well, but one thing I did pick up on is that it did not seem to do this at every gas station. - In my scenario it will always just cutoff the fuel flow from the pump and I did not have any proplems with fuel spillage. I found that if I was experiencing the problem at a particular pump, I would pull the pump nozzle approx. 1/2 way out of the filler and the problem would disappear. ie. Fill the tank up but with the pump nozzle 1/2 way withdrawn from the fuel opening. Be careful not to squeeze the pump trigger all the way as this could result in fuel being spilt. It seems as if there is some problem only with certain types of pump nozzles and not others. In my case by filling up with the nozzle slightly withdrawn it seems to cure this problem - just remember to squeeze the pump trigger no more than around 3/4 of its travel to prevent fuel spillage.
  5. One plus, is that many have stated that the 02+ PSE sounds better/louder. I have not heard this myself though. Not sure how much the larger 3.6 motor contributes to the overall sound versus a 3.4 with the same PSE.
  6. By far the easiest way of obtaining an audible sound for the alarm, is to leave the centre console lid slightly ajar. This lid is normally alarmed and if left unlatched (even slightly) it will cause the horn to give off one or two quick beeps when activating the alarm system.
  7. Yes - you can easily see where off the main inlet duct (Large rubber hose connected to the Airbox/Maf/Intake manifold) there is a smaller hose (about 50mm diameter) which tees off the main tract and connects to the top of the airbox. This is connected to the airbox cavity which helps to muffle out any intake noise. I have blocked this path with a tapered rubber plug but found that the intake noise is not at all that loud. Note that my car has the PSE fitted which tends to drown any intake sounds when hitting 4-5K+ RPMs. It is an easy/cheap mod to try out. Check out this thread for more info regarding the mod: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=811&hl=orange
  8. Why would a MAF sensor blockage cause the ABS and the PSM light to illuminate ???
  9. Should be normal (harmless) - Many others have noticed the same symptoms after some hard track driving etc. It seems as if some excess oil pools in some areas of the motor and finds its way into the combustion chambers and when the car is started this small amount of oil just burns off. BMW motorcycles have been known to do the same thing due to their flat cylinder orientation as well, especially if left for extended periods on their side stand - which tilts the motor to one side.
  10. You may be able to remove the glue with a polish as suggested - some final acrylic/plastics type buffing may be required to get a clear finish though. Tip for next time - I prefer to use some thin double sided tape in a few small strategic locations (you do not need too much tape) around the inner perimeter of the rings to atttach them to the cluster - much safer and this method permits easy removal if required.
  11. Tried the decoder on my VIN and yep - It seems to work fine - Thanks
  12. I have not heard of anyone who has been dis-satisfied with their purchase of their exhaust (PSE, RUF, Fabspeed, Gemballa etc) so I think you cannot go wrong with any of them. Just be aware that they apparently do sound different from each other - Unfortunately in my region not many owners have had their mufflers changed so I could not easily compare, and in fact my car was the first PSE job that my official dealer had done on a 996. So I decided on the PSE at the time from reading the forums and availability. I like the modification so much that I would not hesitate purchasing an additional set if I was purchasing another 996... The only exhaust which is extremely loud are the Fabspeed 'Bypass Pipes' which is basically a set of two straight thru' pipes which bypass the mufflers - This makes a 996 really roar and it is way too much for general street use!
  13. Scouser.....Did you end up receiving my VIN [Aussie 996 ROW C2]?
  14. I would remove the Pollen Filter to verify that it is the cause of your smell. It is a fairly simple task and is fully explained in Renntech's DIY section.
  15. Jim - The PSE works by utilising a vacuum operated valve. The vacuum line(s) are passed via a electronic solenoid which in turn controls if there is vacuum applied to the valve or not. This way you can switch the PSE from on to off via a switch on the dash - note that it just has two states On/Off. On the factory fitted item - the solenoid signal is fed via a relay which turns the PSE sound off (normal muffler sound) within a certain speed range (uses speedo sense signal) - most people disable this feature. Perform a search on Loren's forum for the PSE for more info Also see http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=491
  16. This is quite normal. The normal logic is for the water spray to be activated before the wipers move so that a dusty/dirty windscreen will not be scratched by dry wiper blades etc. While this simple electronic cutout of the wipers while spraying saves a windscreen from possible scratches it also means that whenever the sprayer is working the wipers are not - simple as that. It is technically possible to have the wipers and washer jets working in unison as mentioned but you would really require some way of detecting a dry windscreen vs one that is totally wetted from the spray to prevent the dry wiper blade syndrome...
  17. Scouser - Check your PM..sent you my VIN a few days ago! Cheers
  18. Can't speak for Braided Lines on a 996 but on my bike, braided lines do improve the feel (less 'spongy' on the brake lever) of the brakes (smaller expansion of the hoses). This feel may not be as noticeable on a 996 - depending on how good the original lines are and how much 'feel' is transferred back to your foot through the brake system. There is minor drawback for braided lines fitted to a normal road car though. When normal brake lines deteriorate - you can easily tell by a quick visual inspection of the lines - This prompts you to perform some maintenance on the lines etc. When you have braided lines fitted, you cannot tell if the hoses have developed a problem/started to split etc due to the braided covering. In this case the user should be diligent in replacing the lines when appropriate. In racing this is not normally an issue as lines etc get thoroughly inspected/tested/replaced between races etc. On a street car the owner might not be as diligent and the lines may develop a minor problem over time and this may go unoticed until the problem becomes a major one. On a bike the brake lines are fairly cheap and always easy to access/view/replace so maintence of these is not such an issue and I tend to replace these components as a matter of course rather than waiting on a failure/problem to crop up.
  19. The PSE is basically 2 mufflers in one which are switchable via an electronically controlled vacuum valve. 1: You can switch in both muffler sections via a vacuum operated valve and then the exhaust gas has to travel through all the sections/chambers which produces a standard quiet exhaust noise. 2: You can then switch out (bypass) part of the muffler via the vacuum valve and then the exhaust gas bypasses part(s) of the muffler but still travels through some muffler sections to achieve a louder exhaust note without being a full on bypass setup. ie. it is much louder but not too excessive. They sound like a REAL sports car should..... :D The fabspeed bypass pipes are just hollow pipes which are attached to the catalytic converter output once the existing mufflers are removed from the vehicle. ie. there are no mufflers on a vehicle with bypass pipes. This is a very loud setup (racecar loud).
  20. PSS9 or even X74 is the go. The US specified suspension is fitted to the US cars to pass ride height regulations and not entirely for performance as you may have noticed. I have the X74 suspension fitted to my C2 and my it makes the car totally different to stock. No floatiness etc hey even my Grandma could drive the car at 250+Km/h :D
  21. At 69,000 Miles you may also want to check the condition of the dampers - they could be on their way out?? Don't confuse a stiff ride with good suspension...You will find in general that many Japanese cars cars tend to be set up with hard suspension settings which tend to produce a harsh ride especially on bumpy roads, where you tend to get less traction due to bouncing over irregularities in the road surface. What type of suspension is on the C2 - standard, 030/ROW 030 etc etc?
  22. Scouser, The VIN Decode tool is a handy utility - thanks One minor error to report - my vehicle's body/engine code is a 0 and the decoder reports an error (996) - all other fields seem to be reported correctly for my vehicle. My vehicle is an Australian delivered '04 C2 Coupe
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.