juniinc

Hey USAF are u copying my blue cabling job? LOL great choice by going with JL 4AWG. what a garage floor! very nice

they will fit

here is my all black 986S http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=18693&hl=

sure, let me know when U decide.

Yup, I would stick to your stock clear heads,,, possibly HID upgrade? bigger black spoked wheels(of course S red calipers) & lowered would be nice

this could be a long process, time consuming. I recommend U to get a partner to help on the other side. A few times I've sewn in with the frame on it,,, unless u are a professional upholsterer this can be very difficult. U will need to remove the canvas bottom piece. detached top bottom piece removed JUKI time

All along it sounds very good,,, I like the choice U made. MB quart is one of the best competetion seperates available. be sure they do come w/ their own passive crossover. for those JL350's I think your JL amp is going to be too much for them . I would just let the alpine 45Wx4? push those little 3.5s JL amp is great as well as their sub. Yes with all these great component speakers U definitely need a true sub, not a 6inch mid range wanna be sub on the door. many get confused their 6.5" with a sub woofer, use those 6.5" as your mid-range driver crossed at 250~400hz so they dont vibrate terribly end up making everything loose on the door,,LOL then add a true JL sub to your JL300/4CH amp, using only 1CH of 4-bridge it then U got your mono block for the sub. Thanks again for the info Juninc. I checked out your thread on your install... seems you're pretty keen on "clear sounding" audio as much as I am. In your own opinion do you think what I'm doing makes sense? So far the front dash speakers contain the MB Quartz PVI-210 series which is their premium brand of speaker. 4" woofer + 1.5" Tweeter, hooked to a cross-over. The door speakers I made the custom baffle for out of 3/4" oak surrounded in Dynamat Extreme front and back, and then replaced with the JL ZR-650 Woofers (didn't use the tweeters). Also hooked up to cross-overs (although I need to adjust them for low level only play-back, I think they're getting some mid-range right now). The 4 rear deck speakers I replaced with the JL TR-350s. The Receiver has also been changed out to the Alpine IVA-W203 / PV1 series. Right now, my thinking is as follows. I have a JL 300/4 Amp and a JL 300/2 amp that haven't been hooked up yet. Based on your response, it looks like I'll have to hardwire the plug as well. My thinking is to place the Front Dash speakers on 2 channels, and the rear deck speakers on the other 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Thus in theory, the rears will have slightly less power going to each of the 4 speakers than the fronts, but that's ok seeing as they're really only staging speakers anyways. The 6.5" woofers in the doors will each be connected to the 300/2 amp giving them 150 watts each, which should be great considering the speakers are rated for 200 a piece. I am still debating on the subwoofer. I really like your design and would consider purchasing that housing you made for the center deck, although I would also want a switch where I could turn it off or on. I would probably prefer a smaller JL Sub, such as a 10w7 or possibly even a 8w7. I don't need to kill my ear drums, but knowing JL's subs they're usually real clean on the low bass frequencies. I'd obviously then need a 3rd mono-block amp... I think a JL 250/1 would "probably" be sufficient, I think a 500/1 would be overkill, but that may just be me. What do you think? Does this sound "sound" ;)

normal, sounds like contact point gap on the pass door is pry-ed a bit more.

looks good USAF. I believe there is a by-pass kit for your Alpine,,, so U could watch DVDs while driving.

agreed with wvicary. would be wise to replace the outer handle switch too.

sounds like U need to check the regulator cable rather than the micro sw,,, read that post again.

Hey Mike, I would remove the left rear wheel then inspect the inner rim(edge) to see if there is any rubbing mark,,,

Anytime,man also will need longer lug-bolts. let me know when U need it.

hard wired http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=17505&hl=

U would need 235/35/19F 295/30/19R most likely will need 2 pairs of 7mm/F & 14mm/R hub centric spacers.

sounds like U need to check the plug gap.

shouldn't be any problem,,, something like this? or below the tire

is your alarm sys working properly? no double beep ? horn is going off when the alarm is triggered?

Hey Chris , its been a while since we communicated,,,I've been away. It's a bummer she isn't fixed with a new sensor, be sure to check the sensor connection. "I also hear 2 valves actuating" I believe the other valve next to the purge valve is the shut off valve. sounds like u've already replaced the operating purge valve,,, there is also a vacuum control valve on the EVAP canister, pm'ed u back with my cell #. good luck.

no leak what so ever. liquid seam sealer works great.

silenced it? I doubt it,,, Probably the faulty horn zone. Did you check the alarm horn (near the battery)? Test it with 12 volts to see if it is working or not. Only other choice you have is to put a PST or PIWIS tester on it and manually test each switch, sensor and lock. Not hard to do but the Durametric can not (yet) do these tests it can only read faults. Thanks for the assistance. Yes the horn is getting 12V, but it's sound is tinny. I suspect a previous owner "silenced" it. Too bad PST2s are so expensive.

most likely a double beeping faulty zone is caused by your passenger micro switch,,,

lower your car?

check your coolant level sensor

fuel pressure regulator,,,