juniinc

would get the code read again as Loren suggested. pretty weird, how your security system is not acting up only when push started,,, Do u have any other electrical malfuctioning or is your ignition + key wiggly at all? Maybe too late since the dealer could've smoked your starter now? This is what I would do,,, leave the key in RUN position while clutch is depressed, manually jump the starter solenoid prong,,,

Correct & there is no relay required,,,run a 12~10AWG straight from the fuse panel A6 to the connector. It is a two stage switch system,,, RE/VI --> CU seat heater (4 YE) --> 2 stage HI & LO switch --> back 2 CU seat heater --> back & seat heating element. Sure, anything is possible. U can cut the wires & rig your own wiring,,, OEM switch prong 1-YE/RE , 2-YE/BK , 4-BR , 5-YE/WT. Or, go with a OEM switch but make up your own wiring. There is a good thread here, might be able to help U rigging your hardness,,,,, http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/16876-driver-side-window-not-working-tried-almost-every-solution/page__hl__window%20not%20working

The starter is most likely toasted.

Anytime Mark. looked at the wiring diagram,,, Yup, those 4 wires on the car side are for your seat belt lock. Take a closer look, they are gonna be,,,B5-BR/RE , B6-BR , B7-BR/WT ,B8-BR. BR/RE hookes up your cluster & BR/WT connects to the aigbag control module. These shouldn't interfear with B1~B4 yellow wires at all. I still think there are some empty spots,,,

that looks tight!

an extra plug beside the blue seat belt plug U've mentioned, there is empty space on the car side plug where this extra plug mates up to,,, Isn't there ? In that case, U would need to run a few wires , but I believe this can be done. PIC of your car side wiring hardness plugged with the new clip would be nice,,,

That is a good deal! We usually charge $600,,,

Yes, those are indeed the colors. The RE/VI wire coming from the seat does not have a corresponding wire in the car side of the connector. And, although my car did not originally have heated seats, there is a 25A fuse in slot A6 of the panel, which is only supposed to be for heated seats. The smaller diameter wires in the small black square plug in the connector do seem to have mating wires on the car side. So at this point, I know that I would have to get the seat heater switches for the console. I have not looked in the console yet to see if there is an unused connector in there for the switches, and I guess that will depend on whether Porsche put these wires in the harness regardless of the options chosen, and this I don't know. Any assistance on getting this working would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Winnipeg so, yeah, heated seats would be a definite bonus. Mark Correct, the RE/VI wire comes from 25AMP A6 spot + all 3 brown are your ground,,,since there isn't a wire for that in the car side of the connector, U would need to run that wire. Since your car wasn't equiped with heated seat, I doubt that there is an unused connector for the switches. IMO the easiest way to do this would be ordering a OEM switch kit. Those 5 wires we've been talking about should be on the 6 pin plug side,,,power circuit for your PW seat & heated seat. take a look at the 8 pin side Are there B1-YE/RE , B2-YE/BK , B3-YE/WT , B4-BR on both side of the connector ?? these are the wires feeds through the heated seat switch to the heating element.

Yup, I believe they are for the heated seat,,, 5 wires on your new prong, what color are they? Are they 1-Red 1- RE/VI 3-BR ?

not when locking the car,,, the horn will not go off, when U reach into the car with the top down,,,unless there is a by-pass clip.

most likely your interior light wasn't functioning either,,,? perhaps that radio leg triggered it.

start by adjusting the hood latch,,,

With a good multi meter, measure it at the starter solenoid prong.

tip or manual? clutch switch? ignition SW is going bad,,,

If the noise is coincident with road bumps,,, drive slowly with the top down, U can usually see the door moving/squeaking. adjust the door latch striker,,,

U're gonna love it,,,

casharp got U in the right direction,,,, measure at the starter terminal first, if that is OK U can eliminate the starter relay / ECU. If not, we need to go backward.

I use RP in my 986S The best IMO.

You must be really nice to your tires.. Not really, Phillip. I usually drive like I just stole her,,,

purchased these Nexen N3000 back in Nov 2007(45000 miles). Rescently I had all my wheels re-balanced, had the guy check the depth. Now(61000miles) it is at close to 7/32",,, I know it is hard to believe, thinking these Nexen's gonna last more than 30,000 miles. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/16783-set-of-wheels-just-came-in/page__p__84106__hl__a%20set%20of%20new%20wheels__fromsearch__1entry84106

often times they get broken. wiggle the piece & try to feel those tabs,,,keep trying it will come.

costco will be the cheapest.

most likely a blown alarm module (15AMP) fuse under the driver seat,,,

G-05 is yellow,,, maybe they finally changed it. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31707-cracked-cylinder-head/page__p__171894__fromsearch__1entry171894

Check the fuse on the back,,,