Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

mikefocke

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    717

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. mikefocke
    You are cursed.
  2. mikefocke
    Both sources have an incentive to sell you more tires. Tirerack's article discusses mounting all-season on one axle and winter tires on the other, not two brands of winter tires. The differences between summer and all-season and between all-season and winter tires are significant on snow and ice. Are there any sources that cite independent tests to show that the difference in winter tires is that different? How old are the tires (sidewall date)? Temperature?
  3. mikefocke
    A shop owwner's reputation and profits depend on his using parts with little risk and high historical reliability. The individual owner doing his own work may well value the possible redo labor hours slightly differently. Different perspectives. Plus there is always the human tendency to value cost now versus cost in the future differently. I have multiple cars, I value down time differently from someone who has to take the bus when his car is on the rack. You often have to pay more money to try to reduce risk...no matter if the part is a IMS bearing or an axle. We all value that risk differently. Isn't it fun.
  4. mikefocke
    The option sticker is most commonly pasted on the inside of the front hood. A perhaps 2.5" by 2.5" square sticker with a series of 3 digit codes and other things on it. To see what mine looks like and what the order sheet was for my '01 as an example...look here for what we refer to often as the build sticker as it tells what Porsche built into the car at the factory. Another list of options I know of is at Pedro's Garage. For years I maintained one but when he started his, I gave up and gave him all my info.
  5. mikefocke
    Mike, that's why I got confused and said 418/419. But 418/419 were NOT the codes, 491/492 were. They're real codes, the reader says "secondary air injection bank A" and "secondary air injection bank B" but they're not in the Bentley guide. The 996TT thread I linked to above lists the codes as legit Porsche codes. In their case, it was a vacuum leak, caused by various failures of parts, roughly half of which don't exist on the 986S, but some do. I double-checked and cleared the codes again today and they haven't come back (yet), but always have within a few days of driving. (I'll take photos next time if you still don't believe me!) 5 months ago, I thought it was just excess oil from the AOS failure working its way through, but that was 6 months ago so I'm having a hard time convincing myself it will just go away for good if I ignore it long enough... I understand and that is why I'm confused and looked at 2 different versions of the DME diagnostic manuals. What may be a code for the 996TT may have nothing to do with the year and model car/engine you drive. Readers can be wrong, or the manuals can be wrong. Good luck.
  6. mikefocke
    I think you might want to go back and read the codes again and write them down. 418 exists, 419, 491 and 492 don't in my factory 5.2 and 7.2 DME docs for 986s. It is usually a good idea to post the model and year of your car when posing code interpretation requests as it can make a difference..
  7. mikefocke
    Don't you need cam locking tools too?
  8. mikefocke
    P1539 Triggering of the actuator, no active position. Causes: – Open circuit, triggering – Open circuit, B+ supply – Actuator defective
  9. mikefocke
    You might talk to Pedro of www.pedrosgarage.com who just replaced his 200k+ miles 2.5 with a 2.7 by using the 2.5 heads. He said it went very easily with no odd-ball ECU mods or flashes necessary. He runs www.pedrosboard.com..the successor to PPBB.
  10. mikefocke
    The fuel pump could have overheated as in the later Boxster design it is cooled by the fuel in the tank.
  11. mikefocke
    Arrange to take off any mod'ing parts you have added that would have value, replacing them with the original parts. The insurance company is entitled to all the original parts, not any value you added. Love that color and hate to see a good Boxster go. That said, I value my 58k '01S well equipped at $16.5k so your $20k is a nice settlement. You may also be pleasantly surprised at what they add to the "value of the car", things like registration fees and taxes. (I was...got more for my car after 3 months of ownership than I paid for it and they had records of how much I had paid!)
  12. mikefocke
    Have you asked the warranty company to review the claim in light of the possible difference in labor rates for cars with different transmissions? Everyone I know of changes lots more for the TIP equipped cars when R&Ring the trans.
  13. mikefocke
    More info please When you turned the key, did the key seem to go to the far right starting position? When you did that, did you hear any sounds of a solenoid clicking, a starter motor turning? What was the state of the gas in your tank? Had you had any odd electrical issues prior to the incident where the car didn't start? Was the steering wheel "locked" when you pressed on the key? Clutch position? Gearshift position?
  14. mikefocke
    If you can't afford ready to run examples, ask yourself if you can afford the potential problems a car sitting for 3 years presents. Ask why was it sitting? Did it have serious problems when parked? Think of the things that deteriorate with age or lack of lubrication. Think how the oil has long since drained out of the top end and the strain starting such an engine will be under as metal on metal grinds as it is trying to start. Think of what the gas is going to look like all congeeled in the tank and lines.
  15. mikefocke
    And what would Porsche's response be...you changed a part to a non-Porsche part so go ask them. Have you asked Charles. Or Jake. With 1k of their bearings out there (and I know they track their own cars) you'd think if it were a bearing or an install problem they would have seen it before. Yea I know it is a TIP but lots of TIPs track at least to the DE level and lots of them have LN bearings by now. I also wonder if, just because a part is new/replaced, we aren't assuming something that isn't true..that the new/replaced part is good. Have you tried shooting the entire system just after you come off the track with a heat measuring gun and comparing against another similar car? Maybe that would give you a clue. Those guns run only $30. Maybe, because your system is running hot even on the street you could even get a clue there.
  16. mikefocke
    I'm going through a mental list of what is involved in cooling and come up with a water pump you haven't changed and the heat exchanger. Short of measuring the amount of anti-freeze flowing into the radiators I can't think of anything else....unless it is your gauge. Have you used the HVAC controls trick to see what the temps are? My link
  17. mikefocke
    Mike's fuse diagram is a scan of the booklet found in his '01S and so should match your car. I'm not sure exactly what you are describing as front marker lights. If the lights switch is in the far left position (pull it out to get there) for example, my front headlight, side light and tail light are on but only on the left side. That is the European parking light pattern to reduce battery drain when you stop and are unable to pull off the road completely. And what seems to be the low beam is actually a low wattage parking light bulb (5W compared to the headlight low beam at up to 55W). When I rotate the light switch to one click to the right from all-off (without pulling it out), the low beams seem to come on weakly but it is the separate parking light bulb. None of the yellow areas in the headlight assembly come on unless I'm making a turn with my turn signal. I just checked my '01S and these are from the results and not out of a book so they are the way mine actually works. Compare your results and lets be specific about what you are expecting to happen that isn't for you.
  18. mikefocke
    Also be aware that the high beam bulb is the lower one and the low beam bulb is the upper one. Easy to miss.
  19. mikefocke
    Another Thank you for your service. Around Xmas, be wary of driving on summer tires below 40F which it is liable to be in SW VA. You have the title now and I presume your wife has the car waiting for you. Is she maintaining the battery (meaning is it on a battery maintainer)? Or at least maintaining access to the front trunk so you can get to the battery?
  20. mikefocke
    Yes Totaled. If the airbag deployment didn't trigger it the potential for frame damage would. Or the 80% or so of car's value of the initial estimate to fix. Visit it and pull any valuables you have out of it. Also any mods that you can supply original parts for so the salvage yard gets a whole car but you get any mods that are resellable. For example, my taillight and sidelights were in the trunk when they towed it away but the good stuff was in my garage. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/abadaccident
  21. mikefocke
    Why would there be only one error code showing when the problem should have affected both banks equally? Because there are other sensors involved in the comparison of values by the ECM in its logic controlling codes to display. For example, if the O2 sensors are just a little different MAF-O2 on one bank would not equal MAF-O2 on the other bank. After you get the car back, monitor the codes for a while and see if any pending codes show for the O2 sensors. They do degrade at differing rates. And your mileage is about right for them to be marginal.
  22. mikefocke
    Join this forum and read this post How to Modify your relay for full SmartTop functionality.
  23. mikefocke
    You need to keep those O2 sensors plugged in and sending the right signal or your engine management will throw codes and affect any anti-smog inspection. Not to mention you don't want a constant CEL on as it could mask any future problem. So how about a used CAT from a junk yard or someone parting out a car for a racer? Or what are called sports cats? As long as it has the bung to screw in the sensor.
  24. mikefocke
    Bank side Here. Suspect AOS...look at condition of throttle body or pipe just outboard of it to see if oil is being sucked into the intake. If there is heavy oil, you probebly have a ripped AOS. Replace the separator, bellows and the hose. Here Or, when doing work on the air filter, did you somehow create an air leak?
  25. mikefocke
    The ECU has to relearn after a battery is disconnected for a while. Other than the battery being loose or the mounting hardware, can't think of another reason the battery would affect the sound ... unless the car hadn't been run for a while and the injectors got all fouled up. Any codes being thrown?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.