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mikefocke

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Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. If you can't afford ready to run examples, ask yourself if you can afford the potential problems a car sitting for 3 years presents. Ask why was it sitting? Did it have serious problems when parked? Think of the things that deteriorate with age or lack of lubrication. Think how the oil has long since drained out of the top end and the strain starting such an engine will be under as metal on metal grinds as it is trying to start. Think of what the gas is going to look like all congeeled in the tank and lines.
  2. And what would Porsche's response be...you changed a part to a non-Porsche part so go ask them. Have you asked Charles. Or Jake. With 1k of their bearings out there (and I know they track their own cars) you'd think if it were a bearing or an install problem they would have seen it before. Yea I know it is a TIP but lots of TIPs track at least to the DE level and lots of them have LN bearings by now. I also wonder if, just because a part is new/replaced, we aren't assuming something that isn't true..that the new/replaced part is good. Have you tried shooting the entire system just after you come off the track with a heat measuring gun and comparing against another similar car? Maybe that would give you a clue. Those guns run only $30. Maybe, because your system is running hot even on the street you could even get a clue there.
  3. I'm going through a mental list of what is involved in cooling and come up with a water pump you haven't changed and the heat exchanger. Short of measuring the amount of anti-freeze flowing into the radiators I can't think of anything else....unless it is your gauge. Have you used the HVAC controls trick to see what the temps are? My link
  4. Mike's fuse diagram is a scan of the booklet found in his '01S and so should match your car. I'm not sure exactly what you are describing as front marker lights. If the lights switch is in the far left position (pull it out to get there) for example, my front headlight, side light and tail light are on but only on the left side. That is the European parking light pattern to reduce battery drain when you stop and are unable to pull off the road completely. And what seems to be the low beam is actually a low wattage parking light bulb (5W compared to the headlight low beam at up to 55W). When I rotate the light switch to one click to the right from all-off (without pulling it out), the low beams seem to come on weakly but it is the separate parking light bulb. None of the yellow areas in the headlight assembly come on unless I'm making a turn with my turn signal. I just checked my '01S and these are from the results and not out of a book so they are the way mine actually works. Compare your results and lets be specific about what you are expecting to happen that isn't for you.
  5. Also be aware that the high beam bulb is the lower one and the low beam bulb is the upper one. Easy to miss.
  6. Another Thank you for your service. Around Xmas, be wary of driving on summer tires below 40F which it is liable to be in SW VA. You have the title now and I presume your wife has the car waiting for you. Is she maintaining the battery (meaning is it on a battery maintainer)? Or at least maintaining access to the front trunk so you can get to the battery?
  7. Yes Totaled. If the airbag deployment didn't trigger it the potential for frame damage would. Or the 80% or so of car's value of the initial estimate to fix. Visit it and pull any valuables you have out of it. Also any mods that you can supply original parts for so the salvage yard gets a whole car but you get any mods that are resellable. For example, my taillight and sidelights were in the trunk when they towed it away but the good stuff was in my garage. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/abadaccident
  8. Why would there be only one error code showing when the problem should have affected both banks equally? Because there are other sensors involved in the comparison of values by the ECM in its logic controlling codes to display. For example, if the O2 sensors are just a little different MAF-O2 on one bank would not equal MAF-O2 on the other bank. After you get the car back, monitor the codes for a while and see if any pending codes show for the O2 sensors. They do degrade at differing rates. And your mileage is about right for them to be marginal.
  9. Join this forum and read this post How to Modify your relay for full SmartTop functionality.
  10. You need to keep those O2 sensors plugged in and sending the right signal or your engine management will throw codes and affect any anti-smog inspection. Not to mention you don't want a constant CEL on as it could mask any future problem. So how about a used CAT from a junk yard or someone parting out a car for a racer? Or what are called sports cats? As long as it has the bung to screw in the sensor.
  11. Bank side Here. Suspect AOS...look at condition of throttle body or pipe just outboard of it to see if oil is being sucked into the intake. If there is heavy oil, you probebly have a ripped AOS. Replace the separator, bellows and the hose. Here Or, when doing work on the air filter, did you somehow create an air leak?
  12. The ECU has to relearn after a battery is disconnected for a while. Other than the battery being loose or the mounting hardware, can't think of another reason the battery would affect the sound ... unless the car hadn't been run for a while and the injectors got all fouled up. Any codes being thrown?
  13. No Porsches don't kill batteries, owners do. By not using the car, installing aftermarket stuff that draws on the battery even when the car is parked, or the like. My car is 9 years old and needs a battery only about every 4 years despite intermittent use (similar to my 3 other-brand cars). That kind of use is hard on a car's battery and we expect all sorts of things like automatic light turn off circuitry, alarms and remote keys to be on our cars that drain batteries. I expect my car to start easily after 2-3 weeks of non-use. If I expect to be parked longer, I use a battery tender/maintainer. So lets start with the basics...ever tested the charging circuit? Ever load tested the battery once fully charged? Ever tested for current drain in a parked, key off condition?
  14. Done any work on the car recently? Any other symptoms? Note the search capability of the forum and enter the codes as few questions about a 10 year old car are new and there is liable to be a prior posting and answers on the subject. Good luck.
  15. This is one of the most common problems in a Boxster. Generally caused by the seat-belt buckle system or a grounding wire. There is a TSB out describing the grounding issue. My personal car has had the problem 4 times, finally fixed about 4 years ago by the grounding wire replacement from the TSB. But before that both seat-belts were replaced. The PSTII/PIWIS/Durametric can read the codes and point you to the fault area so you only have to correct one, then those computers can reset the airbag light. Ordinary code readers can't read these codes.
  16. Years of reading Boxster forums and I can't recall a single burning story. Doesn't mean they haven't happened but surely not common.
  17. P1126 – Intake system leaking. – Fuel pressure too low. – Fuel injectors contaminated. – Volume supply of fuel pump too low. A comment that a leak in the exhaust system ahead of the O2 sensor can also trigger this.
  18. Looked at the throttle body? If the KN was spewing oil into the intake, the throttle body could be covered with oil (see Pedro's writeup for cleaning instructions).
  19. Are they replacing the tubes also or just the AOS itself? And what is the way you are diagnosing the replaced AOSs as failed? Clean the throttle body?
  20. Check wrecking yards if the rim itself is cracked and the rim was a standard Porsche part. Aftermarkets may be tough to match.
  21. I guess what we come down to is the interior color isn't on the build sticker. Really odd, isn't it. Can anyone else shed some light on this....
  22. The info I provided that X1 referred to an exterior color was taken from a table in the 2001 order guide issued at model year introduction time-frame that I adapted into what I called my "build sheet". The web page link here includes my front trunk options codes from the sticker and the 2001 order guide with what I interpret to be the options my car has highlighted in yellow background. It will show you a table of exterior colors and their codes. I doubt there were many major changes to the order guide for 2002 as 2002 was largely a carryover of the 2000-2001 designs, the major changes came in 2000 and 2003. My link
  23. I too have a L92U X1 and do not have a red interior. My info says the X1 is just Arctic Silver and it was listed under Exterior Colors Boxster S. Special Order red interior would be MC somewhere.
  24. You don't say what year or mileage, that info is always helpful. You don't say that the part you took out and replaced was the .124 part, same as this one. Since it was opened, was the part itself labeled .124 also and not just the opened box. Many MAFs sold on the net are the old one someone took out in the new box they just got the new one in. Buyer beware, know your source, something too good to be true usually is, etc. Since MAF's don't usually show a failure externally .... I'd ask the seller to replace the part with one in its original sealed package. The "Porsche part is better tested" may well be a marketing myth.
  25. 3 fault causes listed – Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC – Leak ahead of TWC or in the area of the oxygen sensor after TWC – Wiring (oxygen sensors exchanged) What does the sensor when removed look like? Was it in snug? What does the throttle body look like? Oil covered? AOS OK? Is there a leak in the exhaust system? Stock exhaust/headers/Cats? Sensors go 50k miles even on the pre-cats ones that seem to fail earlier than the post-cats located ones. So what could it be that is either fouling the sensor or causing a false reading? Everything running OK? Your part# looks good. I used em in a 2001 on both pre-cats sensors.
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