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mikefocke

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Everything posted by mikefocke

  1. No Porsches don't kill batteries, owners do. By not using the car, installing aftermarket stuff that draws on the battery even when the car is parked, or the like. My car is 9 years old and needs a battery only about every 4 years despite intermittent use (similar to my 3 other-brand cars). That kind of use is hard on a car's battery and we expect all sorts of things like automatic light turn off circuitry, alarms and remote keys to be on our cars that drain batteries. I expect my car to start easily after 2-3 weeks of non-use. If I expect to be parked longer, I use a battery tender/maintainer. So lets start with the basics...ever tested the charging circuit? Ever load tested the battery once fully charged? Ever tested for current drain in a parked, key off condition?
  2. Done any work on the car recently? Any other symptoms? Note the search capability of the forum and enter the codes as few questions about a 10 year old car are new and there is liable to be a prior posting and answers on the subject. Good luck.
  3. This is one of the most common problems in a Boxster. Generally caused by the seat-belt buckle system or a grounding wire. There is a TSB out describing the grounding issue. My personal car has had the problem 4 times, finally fixed about 4 years ago by the grounding wire replacement from the TSB. But before that both seat-belts were replaced. The PSTII/PIWIS/Durametric can read the codes and point you to the fault area so you only have to correct one, then those computers can reset the airbag light. Ordinary code readers can't read these codes.
  4. Years of reading Boxster forums and I can't recall a single burning story. Doesn't mean they haven't happened but surely not common.
  5. P1126 – Intake system leaking. – Fuel pressure too low. – Fuel injectors contaminated. – Volume supply of fuel pump too low. A comment that a leak in the exhaust system ahead of the O2 sensor can also trigger this.
  6. Looked at the throttle body? If the KN was spewing oil into the intake, the throttle body could be covered with oil (see Pedro's writeup for cleaning instructions).
  7. Are they replacing the tubes also or just the AOS itself? And what is the way you are diagnosing the replaced AOSs as failed? Clean the throttle body?
  8. Check wrecking yards if the rim itself is cracked and the rim was a standard Porsche part. Aftermarkets may be tough to match.
  9. I guess what we come down to is the interior color isn't on the build sticker. Really odd, isn't it. Can anyone else shed some light on this....
  10. The info I provided that X1 referred to an exterior color was taken from a table in the 2001 order guide issued at model year introduction time-frame that I adapted into what I called my "build sheet". The web page link here includes my front trunk options codes from the sticker and the 2001 order guide with what I interpret to be the options my car has highlighted in yellow background. It will show you a table of exterior colors and their codes. I doubt there were many major changes to the order guide for 2002 as 2002 was largely a carryover of the 2000-2001 designs, the major changes came in 2000 and 2003. My link
  11. I too have a L92U X1 and do not have a red interior. My info says the X1 is just Arctic Silver and it was listed under Exterior Colors Boxster S. Special Order red interior would be MC somewhere.
  12. You don't say what year or mileage, that info is always helpful. You don't say that the part you took out and replaced was the .124 part, same as this one. Since it was opened, was the part itself labeled .124 also and not just the opened box. Many MAFs sold on the net are the old one someone took out in the new box they just got the new one in. Buyer beware, know your source, something too good to be true usually is, etc. Since MAF's don't usually show a failure externally .... I'd ask the seller to replace the part with one in its original sealed package. The "Porsche part is better tested" may well be a marketing myth.
  13. 3 fault causes listed – Oxygen sensor ahead of TWC – Leak ahead of TWC or in the area of the oxygen sensor after TWC – Wiring (oxygen sensors exchanged) What does the sensor when removed look like? Was it in snug? What does the throttle body look like? Oil covered? AOS OK? Is there a leak in the exhaust system? Stock exhaust/headers/Cats? Sensors go 50k miles even on the pre-cats ones that seem to fail earlier than the post-cats located ones. So what could it be that is either fouling the sensor or causing a false reading? Everything running OK? Your part# looks good. I used em in a 2001 on both pre-cats sensors.
  14. You are very optimistic with that price. I've seen hardtops go for as low as $800 in the summer, more like $1400-$1500 in the early winter. 987 tops are more. Good luck.

  15. A list is here. Nothing special about the Boxster battery. Do hook up the vent tube.
  16. Lets assume there are no aftermarket stereos, radar detectors, iPod chargers or the like. I'd reinstall the battery cable clamps and reset the grounding strap where it contacts the frame. I'd recharge the battery and then load test it. Inspect its fluid level. Reinstall. Now see what happens. disraeli posted this on PPBB "The factory technical manual (Section 97-07 page 2) has the following table of total electrical load after the car has been shut off (ModelYear 02): (electrical current is worst case, i.e. car loaded w/all options...) FROM TO mA 0 min 5 min up to approx. 950 6 min 15 min up to approx. 900 16 min 20 min up to approx. 750 21 min 60 min up to approx. 50 61 min until the battery is empty up to approx. 30 1000mA equals, of course, one amp. If the car had no options whatsoever, the load after 60 min would be 17mA instead of 30mA. From this table you should be able to insert a meter between the battery and battery cable and tell if the car is within spec before you begin pulling fuses or removing the battery to get it tested." If there are still problems, then you have to isolate the problem circuit and you do that my removing one fuse at a time and putting a multimeter across the connections and seeing if there is current draw with the ignition switch off.
  17. If you find a fix, post it. I have one key that all remotes work but my former every day key now blinks but the on-top-of-dash light doesn't after the key battery was replaced. Tried all the things you have. Inspected contacts, seem OK. I'm gonna get to the dealer sometime.
  18. Exaggerated? The guy who had 4 failures wouldn't feel that way. Real? Yes. Well documented from multiple sources...many with no financial interest. Probable? No, not by a long shot. Expensive if? Heck yes. At the same time, I take my '01S 57k Boxster on long trips with confidence that it has always gotten me there. But I'm in the position that, if it fails, I have another car and the means to rebuild the car correctly. Not everyone is so lucky.
  19. The preventative maintenance for the IMS bearing is to replace it with a higher quality bearing lubricated by the internal engine oil. You can google LNengineering and read up on the subject at length.
  20. Would you offer a warranty on a car as old as yours? Is the intermediate shaft and its bearing one of the named parts that are covered? No. (I choose this as an example of the hidden gotchas in policies like these. A failure of a part not specifically named is not covered in the older car or power train warranty.) What labor rate will they pay? Will your mechanic accept their reimbursement rates? Will they be around to pay when you have a failure? Have you heard of them paying out on the type of failure you want to have covered? Extended warranty plans pay out ~30% of what they take in according to multiple sources. Does that sound like a good deal? Casinos pay lots better.
  21. My guess is things weren't hooked up right after the recent R&Rs of the transmission for the engine rebuild and the RMS. But no way to know until it gets up in the air and you can look at things. Where did you get your rebuilt engine for $7k?
  22. Various ways, depends on the model year. A collection of ways is posted here. http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/whenyourbatteryisdead
  23. I've owned 3 Porsches. 2 Boxsters. 3 Honda products. 1 Nissan product. Probably 30 other cars. (I'm 67) My 2 Boxsters have been far more reliable and cheaper to maintain than any of the other named brands above. This in spite of my using the best tires, batteries, etc I can find on all cars and the best most OEM parts. Yep, even though the Porsche tires cost $1,100 and the Honda or Acura tires only $800, the overall maintenance costs of the Porsche have been cheaper. Never left me stranded. About 3 months ago, I needed to replace the O2 sensor on my CRV and I wanted to replace one on my Porsche. Same part, same week. Guess which dealer quote was more. Guess which car-manufacturers part was more. Guess what OEM part was more. Honda on all 3. By 50%. If you have to repair the body on a Honda...cheaper. Replace or rebuild the engine...cheaper. But my experience in owning/repairing 2 Honda products and one Boxster of the same vintage and mileage...says the Porsche wins. I don't answer CU surveys. IMHO, YMMV
  24. It all depends. Do you worry about it? Do you prefer to spend ~$1.5k for preventative maintenance or ~$15k for a replacement engine if it should need one at some time in the future? Do you have access to someone who has done the replacement of the IMS before and who you'd trust? My choice and your choice may be different.
  25. Excellence has a 2 part article going in the June and July 2010 issues on the M96 and the IMS design and history. I renewed my subscription just to get that July 2nd part of the article.
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