mikefocke

I'm gonna presume you know that CELs are backed up with diagnostic codes and that the first thing to do is to get access to a code reader and see what the codes tell you. http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/acheckenginelight(cel) That will lead you to more information and then an approach can be suggested. Good luck.

The classic causes are associated with either coolant or oil vapors. So start out looking at the oil and coolant tanks/dipstick and make sure they are up to level and the right color, not clouded or mixed with some of the other. If there is a Check Engine Light, get the codes read via an OBDII reader. If it is blinking, get the car towed to a dealer or very experienced P-car mechanic. The oil vapors are usually associated with a failing Air Oil Separator, a kind of PCV valve. You can search here for the "AOS" and find out more.

Don't assume that your mech will install someone else's parts. For profit and liability purposes. As well as the practical aspect if the part turns out bad or not needed or insufficient, he has no way to recover. I'd begin by kicking yourself that you didn't get a thorough Pre-Purchase Inspection of the car which would have told you of these issues and allowed you to either avoid the car or negotiate a reduced price. Then I'd visit one of the online sites (example)that teach you how to do it yourself, if you have any inclination that way at all. Brakes are something you can do yourself in an afternoon, for example. And there may be local Boxster owners who could help you...we are a friendly bunch.

Painting the Calipers Link This link shows someone changing the color of the calipers. You can choose any color you want, the link will give you an idea of what is involved. Key is masking off the areas you don't want sprayed. Including the fender wells, suspension and fenders. Dry cleaning plastic clothes covers work for large areas. There are on the web somewhere instructions for painting the calipers when removing them from the car.

There are 4 levels of diagnostic tools The code readers (Actron and the like) The Durametric s/w which requires an XP or better laptop and the 2 generations of really expensive used by dealer tools, the PST2 and the PWIS. Often times an auto part dealer will read your codes for you. Or if your post your location, there is someone local who will read em for you. I've done that for people before. You must know the code because, in the case of the O2 sensors, there ar 2 or 4 of them and you want to replace only the one giving off the code. Plus you want to be really sure that the code points to the sensor and isn't a symptom of some other fault. An O2 sensor replace is a simple mechanical task, an easy DIY if you can get the car's tail up in the air. Just wait till the exhaust system has cooled down. There are write-ups with pictures available. You can also have any exhaust shop (Midas muffler and the like) do it. It should take a max of 15 minutes once it is on the lift. Or any independent Porsche mechanic or the dealer. You can use the Porsche branded part or buy the same Bosch part that Porsche uses over the net for lots less. The link has a list of part numbers that are cross referenced to the Porsche model year.

The missing link Alternator repair

OK so a head failed .... But I'd be looking for a used head from another engine of the same approximate mileage that had a sleeve failure or something similar on the other side. No sense in a new head when the one opposite is 7 years old. Nor any sense rebuilding it for the same logic. Other options that come to mind are upgraded engine (used or new) or crate engine. The rebuilders who promise improved engines just don't have enough samples with enough miles nor offer warranties good enough yet to justify that expense (IMNSHO). There is a list of recyclers with links on the web page

Batteries that fit and are know to work in a 986 Boxster List Here

Happened only once a year ago for me too '01S with maybe 50k miles at that point. Absolutely filled up the garage there was so much smoke. Scared the heck out of me, stopped the engine immediately. Started it up again after thinking about it for maybe 15 seconds, nothing unusual. Hasn't occurred since. Regularly take 50 mile trips and have taken a 200 plus mile trip at 25.2MPG. Still on original AOS. I keep meaning to get one and swap it out just because at 54K it probably needs one. But just because the smoke happened once doesn't necessarily mean something is going to be really bad if the next start is OK per my experience. Look at the throttle body (instructions for cleaning it are at Pedro's garage..link on my web site) and if it shows signs of heavy oiling, you know it is an AOS and get it done fast. Look at the oil and make sure no water intrusion (cloudy). Look at the anti-freeze and check the amount and condition of the stuff in the tank. Be careful screwing the caps back on both.

And while you are under there Look at the two plastic scoops that are supposed to be there, one in front and one to the rear.

There are alignments "to spec" and alignments that do something for you. Only the guy who does Porsche alignments every day (and perhaps racing alignments frequently) will be able to align your car to benefit the way you drive and to achieve the mileage/handling balance you want to achieve. Alignment specs don't say just a number, they say between this and that number. And the good alignment operator knows what effect being on one side of the numbers has on the vehicle dynamics. As for noisy versus quiet tires, the difference is between being able to hear the radio with the top up or down and not. I got rid of a set of Yoko's that were known to be noisy at about 1/3 of their wear just so I could get into a set of quieter tires with actually better mileage characteristics. Since my car had 17" wheels, I went with Michelin Ribs at the same time I had the car aligned to favor tire wear. 12k miles later (and the tires/wheels I went to were used so I really don't know how many miles they already had on them) and they have 1/2 wear still available on the rears which is where there wear shows. My alligner asked what I wanted out of the car, and since he set up cars for racing, he had more than book knowledge about what a setting within Porsche specs but at one end of the spec would do. Quiet tires made all the difference in the enjoyment of the car. It went from horrible to quite enjoyable. If I couldn't have that kind of alignment, I might not even bother with one if your current tire wear was even. Buy some tires rated by users at TireRack as quiet. Use their prices as comparisons. Even consider CostCo if you are a member. Take pictures of your wheels at the tire shop the day you go in and go over the wheel condition with the manager of the shop prior to the deal. Ask if they have stick on weights or if they are going to use bang on the edge weights. If the latter, go elsewhere.

Owned both cars you are looking at. There are no great differences once you get to the 50k mark IMHO. Yes early build 99s had problems, but by 50k they should have shown up and been replaced. Lots of near 200k miles Boxsters. Probability of achieving that depends on maintenance and luck. 2.5, 2.7 and 3.2 engines very similar. My '99 was as much fun and my '01S is. Presume you've read http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages

I think Zimmerman makes the rotors, Porsche paints the centers and stocks them with a markup as their part number. You do want painted centers. You can do it or you can pay for pre-painted ones.

Go to the top of the forum See the pinned message called FAQ on radio codes Read it. Inside it there is a link. Follow the link. You'll now be in a thread. You'll see people asking an Loren replying. Reply to the thread with the information you are asked for in the FAQ. That enters your request. Wait for a reply to your message. Yes you may have to hunt through the entire thread to the bottom to find your message and its reply. Is what it looks like to me.

But a 2.7 to 3.2 swap may be using the same DME which changes things compared to swapping an E-gas engine into a non E-gas car...doesn't it? Wiring different, IIRC. Look for posts from tholyoak here as he has swapped about a half dozen engines into his car and probably knows more of the ins and outs of the process than anyone.

You bought a car designed in the early 90s Which had to meet so many more legal requirements (smog, safety, etc) and customer expectations (remote door locking, for example) than earlier models that it isn't surprising that the systems required for that are more complex. Just as a Model A is much simpler than a modern Ford, so too are suceeding generations of Porsches more complex than their predecessors. And with such, the ways of diagnosing become more complex. I sometimes think half the work in designing a modern car is designing-in the maintenance aids. There are problems the shade tree mechanic can still do, but some problems just require the dealer's diagnostic tools and the experience of a mechanic who works on the same car model day in and day out. ..and has for 7 years. Take it in, get it fixed and then I hope you enjoy the heck out of it. And don't think any less of yourself because you can't fix it. After all, that isn't your specialty. IMHO, YMMV

Temp seems a bit high Mine runs spot on 180.

Is it still on the socket wrench? Or did you place it on the folded down top or the trunk and it bounced off? Or is it buried in the folds? Look down the street a ways. And consider not replacing it and just buying 4 normal studs. Unless you have exceptional wheels or live in an area prone to thefts, the wheel locks can be a real pain to keep track of. I've even had dealers lose em. There are 30 possibilities. Ask your dealer to borrow his set (I found the parts dept could help on this more than the service people who want to charge you) and keep trying till one fits. Mark that number. Then either order the socket or buy the 4 studs. Me, I only have normal 17" turbo twists and I'd rather run around with wheels that are easy to get off and risk theft than have a problem somewhere awkward and risk not having the locking sockets.

If the Y tube isn't somehow holed. Normally it isn't the part that fails. When you return the J-tube, find out from the parts department what the part number for the Y-tube is and post it here please so I can pick that up on the AOS web page. I've already incorporated the e-gas versus non e-gas distinction. My prior was based on my '99, the non e-gas version and is 92% right I think for the '01. Reminds me I have an '01 now and at 52k miles I'm going to have to get around to changing it out just as a precaution.

Sure List of sources here

Radiators cleaned including between the radiators and the a/c...all three radiators?

In general just replacing the headers doesn't do much for you and should be done as the first step of a more serious upgrade plan to include cats, exhaust, intake, ECU flash, etc. with dyno testing to verify that each step has improved things and not made them worse in some way that is important to you. Porsche designs things to work together. You are proposing changing one of those things with a product of unknown characteristics. So without testing afterwards, no knowing what you have affected. Further thoughts

Look here DRL Hack

A list of wrecking yards is here

I presume you have read http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/checkeng...ssairflowsensorthis as it may still not be the MAF. But assuming it is, there are tables that cross reference Bosch part numbers and give DIY guidance. Yes. MAFs are $$$$ but not $500. Since you have an older car and the 124 part, be sure and pay attention to the reprogramming the DME part pof the instructions