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magcuda

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Everything posted by magcuda

  1. windshield comes out to get to those fasteners out better plan on a new glass,too
  2. 1 disconnect battery 2 on the bell housing you will see the starter, can't miss it on the lower part of the bell housing 3 remove wiring from starter 4 remove the 2 bolts that hold it on installation reverse process sorry no picture
  3. make sure the chain box isn't leaking down on the hose that hose goes to the thermostat and the can be a PIA on older cars to get off without stripping the threads
  4. do you have fuel pressure? are the injectors getting a pulse? did the timing belt break?
  5. trying cam hose again CAM_HOSE.pdf
  6. I guess we need to verify what hose and also need to clean engine and verify where oil is coming from air cooled motors have a lot of place to leak from there is an oil pressure switch at the top middle that will run down the is an old bulletin about a case leak that the oil cooler has to come off I have attached a picture of the S hose and the left side cam hose, sorry couldn't find a picture of the right side says pic too big will try again S_HOSE.pdf
  7. no need to drain the oil, the right side is the harder side as you have the A/C compressor to deal with one end of the hose is a banjo fitting, use new crush rings the other and is a nut and Ferrel set up the important thing is to counter hold the sending unit block so it doesn't loosen up then you will need to replace those crush washers also
  8. Thanks.... I am a little puzzled that the timing belt has to be changed every 30K. write that in stone and live by it or it will get expensive
  9. there is also an oil pressure switch at the top middle of the motor, same place as non turbo motors but the turbo oil feed line comes off the same place. those oil coolers are pretty tough, they do have 3 large o-rings that seal them to the block. make sure they clean the motor and actually find the leak.
  10. what does this mean??????? I was told that it was not building pressure and that if you turn the key 3/4 way several times rapidly, and then all the way it would start
  11. basics - is it getting spark? what are the fuel pressures?
  12. turbo tail leaves a lot of holes non turbo mount in the grill holes
  13. sounds like it is time to replace shifter bushings
  14. PPI is pre purchase inspection, best done by a third party shop I used to take pictures of the car including underside and engine to document any leaks and rust. the oil consumption is OK, well within specs one driving tip, these old turbos come on with a blast. be sure you are pointed in the direction you want to go when you mash the gas.
  15. the 993 still had a good clutch and pressure plate set up if you mis shifted a down shift 5 >2 it would not fly apart like 996/986 style it would tear up the motor instead
  16. guys I have said it before, don't alter the airbags. what is on there has been tested and won't leave a nice Porsche crest embedded in your forehead or eye.
  17. you should always try to charge the battery first, jumper packs might get you you started but you still have a dead battery. jump starts are deadly to electronics booster battery chargers are also deadly to electronics - = negative, black += positive , red
  18. 5525 in the PSM is stating a fault in the DME is being sent to the PSM check DME for faults and diagnose accordingly
  19. weren't some of the RS or cup cars have manual steering? you might look at a parts catalog. manual steering racks usually have different gearing because of no power assist. turn off your engine and see how hard it is to turn the steering wheel.
  20. glad I could help! I haven't had to do that in years, I knew I had the document and I shared
  21. not enough grease too tight too loose simple way to check pre load, see attached 911_FRT_WHL_BRG.pdf
  22. just get a grill and bolt it on in place of the tail
  23. remember to remove dash the windshield need to come out to get to the bolts
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