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Danyol

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Everything posted by Danyol

  1. Richard, I was over in the UK last week; what are they doing to the roads? What are you hoping to achieve? My KW V3 coilovers can be adjusted to std ride height, as soft or as hard as I want. You can also adjust bound and rebound independently.
  2. Here you go, good luck http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/164588-read-before-you-order-new-alternator-save-1-000-euros.html What kind of electronics you work with?
  3. Sounds like the regulator on the alternator. I've seen a DIY on replacing the component rather than the alternator, a big saving.
  4. Danny, The dealership will want to put in OE items, no idea what they'll want to charge for those. Get a quote from them & maybe the time to shop the work around to some independents? Not sure where you are?
  5. The coil packs are relatively cheap ($50 - 60 each) compared to the labor getting in there; the misfire could be plugs or coils.
  6. 18hrs too long for clutch, maybe for a 1st time mechanic, and it can be done without engine out. Hard pedal is the accumulator Noise could be flywheel; aftermarket or worn
  7. In case you missed it there's a Coil snd Plug DIY in the TT DIY; I used it a couple of years back. One more question; your replacement MAF; where did you get it? How long have you had the car, if you're unsure whether it's flashed; has it ever run well? my concern is running lean at the top end, this would be very harmful to the engine.
  8. WROSS, Agreed the ignition could be the issue but 1.4 bar doesn't make sense?
  9. Is there a modified program in the ECU ("flash"); what do you normally see under boost on the gauge? take a look under the car to see the actuator rods for the waste gates are still in place. They are mechanical and pneumatic actuated via a tube to a piston. If the gate isn't moving the ECU will see excess boost then start dumping boost/retarding timing (the engine will protect itself). Makes me question if the ECU is flashed since normally under "limp mode" the boost will be lower (no check engine?)
  10. 1.0 - 1.2 Bar, wheelspin at speed...sounds like the car is modded. Turbo S will see 0.8 Bar normally.
  11. This is a very refined 450 hp; no issues as a daily driver..I'm looking for more now :D
  12. Under the front of the hood my X50 lists the following factory installed options, C02 XHF X5Y X50 X54 X70 X71 342 375 376 You're looking for the "X50" :)
  13. I did a quick search on this form on P1411, been visited before http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...84&hl=P1411 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...28&hl=P1411 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...85&hl=P1411 Plenty more when you do a search, this forum is great for that! If you contribute you also get access to TSBs ect.
  14. Oil pressure at 5 on the highway is normal, the water temperature should be sitting at 180. I'd go to Autozone and have them read the codes (check engine) and come back and post the codes. The guys here are good at interpreting them.
  15. Exactly; the needle doesn't come out at the low pressures (small cross section 10 psi). I would puncture a small hole first as the football needle will bend before puncturing the plastic. For the cap, drill a hole slightly smaller than the tube, oil up tube and slide it in. Tube with a 1/4 - 3/8" bore works well with the high viscosity fluid. Be careful not to over-pressurize; you know what will happen & it won't be pretty :huh:
  16. Clean the throttle body; search for DIY on this site, it's been covered many times
  17. I just pressurized the container to about 10 psi & used a 3/8" tube though a tight fiting hole in the cap,. Used it for the tranny and diff. (picture 2 posts previous)
  18. Chuck, You weren't the only one. Here's my fill method.
  19. Mike, Have you done this (GT2 Hydraulics) , I'm concerned it would be too heavy for a daily driver? Matt
  20. Take a look here and ask laaves what he hasn't covered. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry133296
  21. I've had both a standard 996 & TT with standard shifters. I upgraded to the B&M on the 996 and the 997 standard shifter in the the TT. My experience driving each of the cars suggests it is easier to "beat" the syncro in the SSK. IMO it is also easier to NOT fully engage a gear with small physical movements giving rise to bigger mistakes. In a TT, not fully engaging a gear with the massive torque is likely to chew it up. My experience in rebuilding boxes NIL, experience with mechanical systems >25 years. I'd venture to suggest a sensitive, precise (I'm guessing you wross), unrushed driver is likely to "feel" a gear in; someone aiming to beat the other guys to the next turn is more likely to be rough with the box. Brad, what is the most common failure on the 2nd gear, is it the end of the teeth being chewed off?
  22. How long has this been happening? Bad gas or Issue with a CAT (although I think this one would throw a code); sounds like timing and boost is being cut back by ECU
  23. I'm installing a custom PC setup in the car, planning on locating the hardware there. Don't plan to be ambitious initially, I'll limit it to running GPS & OBII software. Will progress to MP3, Interface, amps later once the front end software and hardware prove reliable :-)
  24. Great Work! Concerning the location of the amps; any issues with cooling? I'm in the process of planning installing some electronics in there?
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