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Danyol

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Everything posted by Danyol

  1. Funny! If I did they'd probably patent the change and sell it back to us as an improved model :huh:
  2. I have the 05, I think it applies, Loren can clarify maybe (I don't want to broach any copyright either)? Pages_from_996turbo_wiring_2005_Climatronic.pdf
  3. Boldis, Working around electronics something else occurred to me. The throttle is "drive by wire", this means there is a pedal and throttle position sensor. Not sure if these are potentiometers but if either is, the largest wear will occur at the smallest throttle positions. If they're optical sensors then no big deal (unless we're missing a bit :huh: ). Maybe I'm making it too complicated, I'll clean my throttle body first :) Mehmet
  4. Ok guys, after 1k of wear on the the new rears the PSM appears to activate a lot less. I still have the original pzeros on the front and the new tires on the rear...very strange.
  5. I have an '03 X50TT with PCCB brakes and currently have 28k miles on the car. Over the last few thousand miles squealing from the brakes became intolerable. Looking at the manual there are "vibration dampers" attached into each piston with a retaining spring and a sticky pad to the back of the brake pad. I replaced these dampers and I have peace again! Parts (Front Calipers) Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01 Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30 Procedure (appx. 1 hr) 1) Jack front of car and remove wheels (remember to use assembly aids to protect PCCB disc) 2) Suck out some brake fluid from the master cylinder with a 50 ml syringe (or turkey baster) 3) Spread pads apart pushing pistons back into calipers (I used a small monkey wrench as a spreader) 4) Disconnect pad wear sensor and open 2 wire ties (attached to brake fluid tube) to get the wire free 5) Remove screw from retaining pin, use a drift pin to push it out. Careful not to damage sensor wires. 6) Pull out 2 pads together, place on bench. Lever out old damper plates out of the 12 pistons with a screwdriver. Use the opportunity to blow out all the brake components with compressed air (use a dust mask and eye protection). 7) Clean the back of the brake pads with alcohol on bench 8) Pull sticky pad off new dampers and push spring side into piston. Note - the ones on the smaller pistons need to have the cutout facing the calipers internal pin or they will be bent 9) Use new spring and pin, pass pad sensor in retainer in spring (note orientation of spring., one side of car is reversed from the other. 10) Put pads back being careful to hug the disc, push spring in and replace retaining pin. Ensure pads are seated, install screw on retainer and torque to 25 Nm 11) Pump brake pedal to reseat break pads and allow sticky pads to adhere. 12) Top up brake fluid, replace wheels (torque to 97 ft lbs) Test drive and enjoy the quiet braking!
  6. One Cure for PCCB Squeal I have an '03 X50TT with PCCB brakes and currently have 28k miles on the car. Over the last few thousand miles squealing from the brakes became intolerable. Looking at the manual there are "vibration dampers" attached into each piston with a retaining spring and a sticky pad to the back of the brake pad. I replaced these dampers and I have peace again! Parts (Front Calipers) Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01 Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30 Procedure (appx. 1 hr) 1) Jack front of ca Author Danyol Category TT/GT2 (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 11/22/2008 11:33 PM
  7. Has anyone tried cleaning the throttle body, I've read that coatings in the body from fuel residue may cause erratic behavior at small throttle openings on the regular 996? I have a similar problem that's developed over the last 2 -3k ('03 X50).
  8. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=291228 More Info than you want to know..
  9. Guys, I'm experiencing the "bump activation" exactly. I started noticing it only when I replaced my rear tires with a different brand (same spec diameter from each of the suppliers websites). I was also noticing it in curves too (higher G, 50mph) the tendency was reduced when I dropped the front pressure a couple of PSI. I suspect it's different compound adhesion front and rear. The rears I had previously (P-zeros) would break traction a lot earlier than my new set. I still have a lot of tread left on the P-zero fronts but I may have to toss them anyway. MH
  10. Symptoms - squealing after starting in heavy rain, getting generator fault. Mine was stretched and about 2" longer than the new one when the two were stretched out (5 years had taken its toll)! Took me about 25 minutes, the belt cost $26. Some photos during installation.
  11. I used the Bosch FR6 plugs (preferred by many), replace any coils if they look suspect (about $50 a piece). Took me about 5 hrs too, I'd say more tedious than difficult. Some pictures .
  12. Clutch Accumulator Replacement Common Symptoms - Hard pedal particularly with engine off, vibration and inexact point of engagement Tools 27mm open ended wrench (small head - I ground down an old wrench), 10mm socket Materials Accumulator 997-334-166-00, Hydraulic fluid Pentosin CHF 11S (or CHF 202) - Pump the clutch 25 times with the engine off to relieve any residual pressure in the system - all 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands or a lift. Easier to remove driver's side rear tire for better access if you're on stan Author Danyol Category TT/GT2 (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 05/16/2008 04:45 PM
  13. Common Symptoms - Hard pedal particularly with engine off, vibration and inexact point of engagement Tools 27mm open ended wrench (small head - I ground down an old wrench), 10mm socket Materials Accumulator 997-334-166-00, Hydraulic fluid Pentosin CHF 11S (or CHF 202) - Pump the clutch 25 times with the engine off to relieve any residual pressure in the system - all 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands or a lift. Easier to remove driver's side rear tire for better access if you're on stands. - Remove the rear cross brace (drawing below) - Remove hose clamp assembly directly below accumulator (10mm socket) - Unscrew ball (27mm open, small head or ground; see picture) have a cloth around it to catch any spills, Pentosin is nasty stuff, it will eat the rubber hoses (It is also very flammable!) - Install new ball & tighten to 22 ftlbs (I did it with my modified wrench to "just enough") - Reinstall hose bracket & reattach hoses - reinstall cross brace, torque to 48ftlb - pump clutch, check for leaks - bleed clutch using a pressure bleeder on front reservoir, bleeding at the slave cylinder (no more than 10 psi) - run engine 20 secs, turn off and check fluid level under cover in luggage compartment and in the power steering pump. - run engine pump 10 times to bleed, turn off check levels again.
  14. Guys, I received the part today & I'm comfortable doing the job but have a question. Looks like there is some kind of protective insert in the end. Before I break something; am I supposed to unscrew the insert? Any other advice not covered by the Porsche manual (2003 TT)? Thanks
  15. My post from another thread - I may be an anomaly, and I'm almost afraid to say; my 996 Pcars consumed/consume very little oil blush.gif 2002 C4S - Owned 2 yrs added 16k miles (6 track days), oil changes at 5k maybe added 0.5 L between changes 2003 TT - Owned 9 mths, purchased with 20k (changed oil straight away) now 25k mls (1 track day) and it has dropped 1 "bar" on the display. Always cool turbos before turning off, very occasionally see "smokescreen" at startup. My cars are daily drivers, average commute 15 miles highway if traveling to office. After reading all the stories of what's "normal" and within specs I would have expected to use more. unsure.gif
  16. Have you posted in the 986 forum, some great guys in there?
  17. I have no room for a block, the jack barely fits under there! It appears to be very rugged, but if you want you may be able to use a small disc of rubber for protection (maybe cut from the sole of an old sneaker?).
  18. I may be an anomaly, and I'm almost afraid to say; my 996 Pcars consumed/consume very little oil :blush: 2002 C4S - Owned 2 yrs added 16k miles (6 track days), oil changes at 5k maybe added 0.5 L between changes 2003 TT - Owned 9 mths, purchased with 20k (changed oil straight away) now 25k mls (1 track day) and it has dropped 1 "bar" on the display. Always cool turbos before turning off, very occasionally see "smokescreen" at startup. My cars are daily drivers, average commute 15 miles highway if traveling to office. After reading all the stories of what's "normal" and within specs I would have expected to use more. :unsure:
  19. Besides going to a PCM BUS system for the audio system (more complicated aftermarket upgrades), I believe there is very little difference between them.
  20. Good job! A DIY would be a nice touch, you have pictures at various stages?
  21. My colleague & I both did our brake flush the same week on our PCars, both had the blue in the system when we started. We used a power bleeder and a syringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible. One liter of fluid appeared to produce a colorless bleed, within a few days fluid in the master cylinders in both cars appeared to be blue again. We came to the conclusion small residual fluid could affect the new batch, it appears to be a very strong dye. We didn't go to the extent of comparing a sample with ATE blue.
  22. Peter, I think you have your answer from 2008 Carrera; the 997 is tighter than the Vettes. It definitely is a personal preference; I've not known many people to go from a Vette to Pcar then back to a Vette :drive: Now the GT3 is the purest track car IMO, much of the power is at the top end. I would test drive both the new Vette & the 997s.
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