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minny

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Everything posted by minny

  1. minny
    Thank you. I will give that a try. The throttle body was replaced after all the wiring and connector checks so that should not be the problem.
  2. minny
    I am resurrecting this thread for some help and advice. After an oil change on a friend's car, it ran fine for a couple of days then the MIL lit. The car wouldn't rev and idled roughly. The PIWIS code was P1502. Connectors and wiring were checked and all was fine. The output from the DME to the throttle body reads 0-14v. With the car running and the code cleared, it runs fine until the the car is switched off and restarted then the MIL comes back on and the same code arises. We replaced the throttle body and air mass meter but there is no difference. The airmass meter reading is 17.5kg/hr at idle. The spanner in the works is that the car runs fine with the airmass meter disconnected.
  3. minny
    The Contis were the same on my Carrera but on the turbo I still have 5mm of tread after 7k miles.
  4. minny
    Thank you. Will do that and see what happens.
  5. minny
    A friend's turbo is lighting the spoiler warning light 10 seconds after the spoiler raises and doesn't extinguish until the car is stopped and restarted. 6 months ago the microswitches were faulty and replaced and all was fine. The rams started leaking a week ago and were replaced. Since then the light comes on every time the spoiler is raised whether automatically above 75mph or manually via the switch. The PIWIS code reads 9150 I think which is the generic code that there is a spoiler malfunction. Thing is, the spoiler is actually working normally and raising equally. The rams have been bled properly. The microswitches have been replaced again with no effect. We've even tried to bypass the microswitches by joining up the black and gray wires from the microswitches and isolating the blue and black ones. The light then just comes on and stays on all the time. ECUs below the passenger seat are all dry. I suspect there may be a break in a wire leading to the microswitches as everything else seems to work. Any ideas anyone?
  6. minny
    Congratulations! At the rate you are going it will be a while yet.
  7. minny
    Please check the bolt torques when you replace the parts as the bolts at the forked end torques to 160 Nm.
  8. minny
    The CEL on a mate's car was on and reading the codes it said P2096 and P2098. We cleared the codes but they kept returning so we changed both the post cat lambda sensors with original Porsche ones but the light remains on and the new code is P0420 (bank 1 cat below efficiency). Is there anything else I should check before condemning the cat? The emmisions are fine.
  9. minny
    I have since replaced the MAF sensor and the car is running much better and the CEL is staying off. I still experience some "shudder" when going uphill under load. Have not had a chance yet to inspect the engine or transmission mounts... David Interesting that my '99 996 also does the shudder under the same conditions especially when going up hill. However, there is no flare of rev or slipping. It also only seems to happen as the car is warming up but once fully warm, it doesn't recur until I restart the car. Even when warm when i restart, it will happen once or twice then all is normal again. The fluid change with Esso LT 71141 ATF and MAF change helped.
  10. minny
    Just to say i take my hat off for a great job done. I've kept your link in my favourites folder even though i have a 996.
  11. minny
    If you say the battery might be weak, consider getting it checked first and replace it if required. The 996s can throw up strange faults with a weak/dying battery.
  12. minny
    It is usually the coffin bush that squeaks as it wears but mine turned out to be worn anti-roll bar bushes. These are cheap and easy to replace.
  13. minny
    I live in Belfast, U.K where my '99 C2 is a daily driver. Although the winters here are not as severe as in Canada, the roads are gritted for about 3 months of the year. I applied Dinitrol to all the visible brake pipes, suspension bolts, nuts, suspension springs, mounts, jacking points and anything else that looked remotely rusty however slight e.g. after removing the front undertray the cross beams were slightly rusty. It takes about 2 hours to do the whole lot in the summer. Prior to applying the Dinitrol, I hose the under side and brush all the areas with a soft paint brush just to loosen any salt laden deposits. After all that I also remove the front bumper and clean all the detritus from the condensors and radiators. Some may argue its overkill but I enjoy working on the car and with getting under the car you get to know it better and spot potential problems in the process e.g. weeping hoses, leaks. After all it is 2 hours outside in the good weather which can be rare here.
  14. minny
    Porsche gets the ATF delivered in 20 litre drums and if you buy it from them they charge a ridiculous amount per litre. You need about 5 litres for a fluid and filter change. The ZF boxes on the earlier cars needs the ESSO LT 71141 fluid. I've seen others that state they are compatible with the Esso stuff, but here in the UK we have a few places that sell it in litre bottles and don't cost that much more that the other brands. ZF themselves say the Esso fluid is the only approved one and when you actually see the Esso ATF compared to the other ATF it is quite different. Its actually more like manual transaxle oil. The reason they use the special fluid is that the torque converter in the ZF boxes are constantly slipping a little in use and the Esso ATF is supposed to be formulated to meet the friction required for the correct amount of slip. I'm sure an engineer will probably add that all torque convertors slip a little anyway which is probably right but the ZF ones have slightly more than others in a controlled fashion, hence the correct ATF required. Have a look at the DIY section of this forum to see what is involved in the ATF change.
  15. minny
    I undid the drain plug a little to get a fluid sample and I think they did use the proper ATF. Most ATF is reddish in colour and fairly thin. The Esso LT71141 ATF is actually quite similar to normal diff oil. The difference is the amount of sulphur in diff oil which gives them the distinctive smell. I mixed 50/50 diff oil and the Esso ATF and the smell is still quite strong. The sample I got from the transmission definitely doesn't smell like diff oil. Depending on how hard you are driving, after 20 minutes the ATF temp is usually about 50-60 degrees celcius. To check the level, the temp should be between 30 and 40 degrees. Mine reaches 80 degrees in town traffic.
  16. minny
    Thank you, that is what I plan to do. Diff oil is for the diff only. My worry is what I overheard at the delership and then invoiced for 5 litres of diff oil. The service manager assures me that they get ATF delivered in 20 litre drums which is correct and to invoice it they don't have part no for each litre so use the diff oil part no. I checked the parts catalogue on hte Porsche website and its funny they now don't have a part no for each litre of ATF but have one for the 20 litre drum.
  17. minny
    The ZF box on my '99 car needs the Esso LT 71141 fluid for a fluid change but assume someone put 4-5 litres of standard manual transaxle oil in by mistake during the change, would I expect to know immediatley or would the box function relatively normally. I had the fluid changed 6 months and 2k miles ago at the Porsche dealership and I was invoiced for 5 litres of diff oil. Also I overheard the next time I was there the technicians debating what to put in another Tip tronic 996 - standard diff oil or ATF??? Surely anyone who knows any basic mechanics knows that auto boxes today need ATF in some shape or form and that new boxes are becoming more fluid specific, like engine oils. Its just that I find the cold changes can be jerky especially when just driving off for the first time and the torque converter engages there can occasionally be quite a jolt. This tends to occur at higher loads, e.g trying to join traffic at a t junction. I've connected the car to the PST but there are no fault codes which I assume might be logged if there is abnormal slippage due to the wrong type of fluid used. The box is certainly not slipping, its just that it is jerky when cold. Its fine when warm.
  18. minny
    Dead batteries in 996s do all sort of funny things to the electrics. Unless you use really high amperage jump leads, you'll get enough juice to work some electrics and maybe the starter soleniod (thie clicking noise you heard) but it wouldn't turn over the engine. Hopefully that is all it is. ALso check the ground around the battery to make sure it is sound.
  19. minny
    Congratulations on your purchase. Good looking car - I would say that as mine looks exactly the same except for the clear lights
  20. minny
    Is it the air/oil separator?
  21. minny
    Using the instructions on this forum it took me half an hour to do it.
  22. minny
    Is this a ROW car? If so do you have the key FOB that opens the top? Perhaps you have a short or are pressing it without knowing.... Thanks for that, think i will leave it into the porsche shop and let them sort it out. Hi Graham, It is still likely to be the door microswitch that is faulty as stated on the PST2 readout. The microswitch is stuck in the closed position hence operating the roof as you can do when you hold the keyfob button down when you open the car or by using the door key and holding it in the door unlock position. Min
  23. minny
    God bless you and your family. Life is full of sacrifices but its still nice to hear a touching story like that to make one think about one's own situation.
  24. minny
    Very good point. Never thought of that. I learn something new everyday.
  25. minny
    The first step is to get the car plugged in for diagnostics to see what engine or tiptronic fault codes are logged.
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