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Dus10R

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Everything posted by Dus10R

  1. Common for the Power Steering master cylinder to leak...needing replacement. Usually will drip out behind the front driver wheel somewhere.
  2. That's why I hate sunroofs. Before I bought the car I was convincing my wife about Porsche quality and how well built they are, etc etc... Now there's consistent squeaks and rattles from the rear of the headliner and I know some of it is the sunroof cassette. The driver door seal has a bad wind noise. She'll never listen to me again about car quality...now she's fighting for a Bentley Continental, someone convinced her they're a quality, squeak free, quiet at a 100mph, car...just what I want, a big, fat, heavy, Bentley... Thanks Porsche.
  3. Well from the looks of it, that's were it's leaking from. I wasn't aware the Turbo's had this problem. What is it exactly? Just bad head gaskets or are the cyclinder heads bad?
  4. This leak is at the rear (closest to the bumper) of the motor on the passenger side and I can't find any fluid on top that is leaking down. I'm stumped on this one.
  5. It's on the passenger side at the back of the motor.
  6. When I first bought the car the guy that I bought it from didn't drive it much and it developed a small coolant leak after I started driving it the first week. I kept my eye on it and it eventually stopped leaking as I drove it on a daily basis (this was 2 years ago) Now I've parked the car for winter, taking it out about once a week just to start it and run it a little, and this last time I parked it, a day later I noticed the same leak is back, same place and everything. Any clues... here's some pics.
  7. quote] us working techs need to eat too. if by our own experience and skill we can do a job in less than book time, then why should we give away our time and efforts? everybody thinks that mechanics are out to screw them, but it is no different than any other profession. at first you make less profit while you are learning, but as you streamline your business practices you become more profitable. when you become more profitable you dont think of ways to go back to being less profitable you are now reaping the benefits of all your previous hard work. BTW 8-10 hrs is appropriate for non turbo, 17 ish is appropriate for turbo. It can be done with engine in car, but is safer and easier to pull both together. mattntp I understand your argument, but book rate is so far off from actual realistic time that it should'nt even be legal to quote it. When I had a Nissan, the shop quoted me book of 8 hours to change a fuel injector, I did it myself in 45 minutes...and I'm not a "trained" tech. I understand that you can make more money by quoting book, but If I'm paying for a service by the hour it seems unethical to charge someone for hours of service that it didn't actually take. I could understand say a two hour window but you're saying it takes 17 hours, or almost two full work days to change a clutch? No way... But I understand why techs like it... 1.) if you're working for a shop that pays book and they charge $95 - $100 per hour... you don't make that $100 per hour, you make the (aprox.) $24 an hour they pay you. So if you can squeeze in say two 8 hour "book" jobs in one day, you're doing okay... you just got paid 16 hours worth of work in only 8 hours; good for you, bad for consumer that just paid for something they didn't actually get.
  8. You may be on to something... the first time I noticed it, I was backing out of a parking spot on a very cold day. Then, I drove it the other day, which was a warmer day, and I couldn't get it to do it. Curious to hear if the PPI catches it...
  9. e-mail me at dustinr@nvbell.net and I'll send you the Workshop version...it's not difficult, just time consuming.
  10. Mine is doing this too. I think it's a CV Joint but I haven't actually checked it out yet. The car is in it's cacoon for the winter and so I haven't bothered to diagnose the problem. If you narrow down the cause please update this post, I'd be interested to hear if it is CV Joint related or something else.
  11. Have the front CV joints inspected. Sounds like one may be bad and if one is bad you should probably just change all of them. If it's really under warrant than the dealer should cover it, at least replacing a bad one.
  12. It's been cold here too, but I don't think it's normal. I'm thinking CV joint. Haven't put it on my lift yet to actually find out though.
  13. I'm coming to the conclusion that my P car doesn't like to sit in the garage during winter. Since it's been parked I've come across more issues than I ever have while driving it daily. Most of it's just coincidence I'm sure, it's getting to that first milestone of needing some wear parts, 45K miles. So, I have to change the clutch (it's slipping), then I noticed a puddle of fluid below the rear right axle, turns out that the rear strut decided to have a melt down and all the fluid has leaked out of it, then today I had to take the car for a smog and I noticed that when I turn the wheel full lock in either direction while moving slowly (forward or backward) it feels like something is binding up and the wheel bumps while rolling....bump,....bump,....bump,....bump. It's not a steering issue, more along the lines of a drive shaft or prop shaft or whatever you call the shafts that run to the front wheels. Do these have small u-joints where they connect to the wheels? I've never looked at it. But you can hear it, feel it, and see the steering wheel jerk when it happens. You have to be at full lock though and or very close to full lock. Any ideas?
  14. Okay... wow. Thanks for all the info. that's awesome. I have a two post Hydraulic Rotary lift and I have the transmission jack so that part is covered. Have all the tools and I have a former Toyota mechanic that's helping do it. After looking at the Porsche Service Manual it just didn't seem that difficult, not 17.6 hours difficult. What's sad is the shop I took it to is one of the best Porsche specific shops around; so when they quoted me "book" rate I was really dissapointed. I don't mind paying someone to do it if they're going to charge me a realistic price, but everyone around here quotes "book" and I can't screw myself in good conscience like that knowing they can do it in 7 hours max. They loved it when I told them that they were "high", I guess they're used to dealing with rich dudes that don't know any better and will pay whatever they ask. I even clarified it like this.." So you're telling me it's going to take you two full eight hour days to complete a clutch job?" I got the "Well there's a little more to it than you think..." In my sarcastic drawn out voice, "Rrrriiiiggghhhttt." Are there any mechanics left that charge you for how long it actually took them to complete the job? I haven't found one... Maybe I found a new calling, I think I can scrounge by on $95 bucks per hour of legitimate time.
  15. Time to change clutch, I was wondering how long it really takes to do it? I've seen the Porsche manual and it seems very cut and dried. I stopped by a Porsche repair facility (non-dealer) and they quoted me book at 17.6 hours. Seemed to me like a blindfolded chimpanzee drunk on jack Daniels could do it in 17.6 hours but a normal reasoning human could probably do it in 6 (learning curve). Anyone here done it themselves?
  16. Misfires can be caused by the following... Spark plug wires Ignition coil Fuel injector Wiring to fuel injector Timing Belt Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump Weak compression Blown head gasket Your saying that it misfires at low rpm but not at high rpms? With a modded car / chip, it could be a lot of things fuel related. Without a wideband O2 reader you don't know what it's doing, you're just trusting that the FVD map is still working correctly. It could be running too lean in the lower rpms and then at WOT when the boost spools in their map is fattening up the AFR like it should which is solving the problem temporarily. Or, it's not getting enough fuel pressure, EGR valve is bad, MAF issues, valve stuck or bad (do compression check). If you've already tried all of the easy stuff and it's still having problems then theres something deeper. You normally cant get something for nothing when modding. If Porsche could get 500hp out of the 996TT by just chipping it, why would they go through the trouble of re-engineering and building an entirely new 3.8L motor for the new 2010 Turbo? It's definitely possible to get the horsepower out of the 996TT but at what cost to longevity. You buy exhaust and a chip from a company that you trust but in reality you have no idea how their fuel & timing maps work unless you're data logging with a wideband. I've had STI, EVO, Porsche, Nissan and the principle is all the same. In fact, with my Evo, the factory map wasn't good for the car at WOT and top speed, it was too lean and getting knock. I had to alter the factory map to bring a balance of longevity and performance back into the equation. I guess Mitsubishi didn't expect many people to drive their Evo's at top speed for any length of time; they didn't count on us Nevadan's and our miles of straight lonley roads. So you need to data log to truely see what's happening.
  17. From my PET schematic, it looks like the only boost leak I have left is from this part no: 996 605 165 00 Change-Over Valve. Seems like a weird place for a boost leak, but then again so did the oil filler cap.
  18. Was at a auction today and saw a '07 997 TT with 35K sell for $66K. Wow! What a steal. Exotics have dumped in value. Ferrari 360 Modena's can now be had in the $60's and $70's. Saw a Ferrari 430 with 9K miles sell for $145K. Lamborghini Gallardo go for $64K. Good time to buy, bad time to sell.
  19. Would def. make it easier... thanks for the tip.
  20. Doing this doesn't put any weird stresses on the transmission or axles?
  21. Well for the past week I've noticed that my car has only been boosting to .7 bar. Didn't seem normal to me so I built a gizmo that I could plug into the intake tract where the airbox would normally connect to, pressurize the track and listen and look for leaks. So Right off I hear a hissing sound comming from the right side of the engine so I start feeling around and then start spraying soapy water around and I can't find it. So I happen to rest my hand on the oil filler cap and the sound got muffled. So I tried to tighen the oil filler cap and it was alread as tight as it would go and still leaking. So I barely started to back it off and it sealed and stopped hissing. Then I sprayed water over all of the hoses and lines on top where the DV's are and I started to see bubbles comming from a small hose that connects to a square block. The hose is clamped on with some type of wierd clamp and it looks to be leaking from around the clamp. The hose and block are behind and above where the oil filter is and it runs front to back, not sure what it is but I have pictures that I'll post later. That one I couldn't fix, to hard to get to without removing a lot of stuff. So then I crawled under the car and could hear more hissing comming from the rear driver side. Turned out to be the intake hose going into the turbo, so I tighted all the hose clamps and it stopped. Took the car back out and now it's boosting consistantly at .9 bar (stock unprogrammed ecu) So, if anyone has an X50 that's been boosting in the .7 range (Ive read posts from guys asking if that was normal) you may ought to check for boost leaks, it's not normal.
  22. A "judder?" How violent? Shouldn't be wheel spin at those speeds, car doesn't have that much HP unless it's been highly modified or the tires are badly worn.
  23. I did remove it. I think I might have figured it our Loren, the butterfly plate wasn't centered correctly and it was keeping it from closing all the way, hence the high idle. I hae yet to drive it yet due to breaking a hose clamp which I now have to go buy, but hopefully that's the fix... Sorry about the other post where I listed a website with service manual references, I just see people on the boards always looking for them and I figured I'd help. Didn't think about copyright enfringements.
  24. Rick Cannell's Awesome resource... No service manual for the Turbo, but there are downloads for the normal 996. Should Save you $200 bucks or so... The PET programs also work...
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