ericinboca

happy to help PM on the way and the smoking on the street is probably residual oil

Sorry - can't find a picture. But imagine the stock AOS with a second one fused to it - it has two cylinders, as opposed to one. There is a DIY instruction in the 986 modification section. When you put in the new one, did you clean out all the oil from the air distributors? if not, that would explain the persistence of oil smoke.

You need a Porsche Motorsports AOS - the stock one won't handle it. Turn 8 at Homestead, turn 3 at Sebring, turn 5 at Barber - all left handers where you are carrying some G's and then you stand on the throttle on exit - they all will generate the smoke. You might even get a few misfires on cylinder 5 and 6 because you get too much liquid oil out of the AOS sucked in. My 986S, a buddy of mine from Atlanta with same, and a fellow from Italy on this board with 986S - we all had the same issues. Motorsports AOS will fix it. I will see if I can find a piture of the PM AOS. A few weeks ago, someone on this board had one for sale.

64G00001 through 10000 matches 1986 3.2L - and you have the right part number for the DME for that motor. I've noticed wvicary knows there older 911s really, really well. Wonder if he can pass along any advice. He helped me with an 83.

As Loren says, you need DOT4. But you don't necessarily have to use the stuff labeled Porsche. ATE or Pentosin is perfectly fine - I think they both make fluids that end up with the Porsche name on the can.

My PET says that is for an M30.21 motor - hopefully someone can tell you a few things about that motor.

On the rim straightening - I bought a set of rims off a salvage car. One wheel was bent somewhat in the wreck. I sent it off to be straightened - it came back absolutely perfect. I used a place called wheel wizard in atlanta, but i think there are lots of places that do this.

I have not had luck with the universal kind of sensors, but others have. It might have been that - bad luck. You snip off the connector from the OEM one already installed and reuse the connector by wiring it to the new sensor using the directions in the kit.

CDI in an 83 is mounted on the left rear corner on the wheel well wall in the engine compartment. A box about 5x3 - something like that. I think there is one cable in at the bottom of it.

Does it have a CDI? Capacitive Discharge Ignition box? the 83 SC does, and it apparantly dies often. Neighbors 83 SC had the same symptoms - turned out to be CDI - we have it rebuilt at ECUdoctors.com

Got a used one out of my 2004 986S. If you are interested - PM me.

The tubes across the engine held with the collars and clamps can work themselves back and forth - you can't really tell by sight if they are correct - you have to feel around the edge of the black collars, pushing hard to see if they dip down any. Those collars and tubes are hard to get right, and while they may look OK, they might be the source of a leak. You have to get you hands underneath too to push around the edges of the collars, nit just the top.

Fault codes 04, 05, 20, 21, 36 Ignition circuit, driver 1. Remove driver's airbag unit. 2. Attach the special tool 9516 instead of the airbag unit. 3. Clear the fault memory. 4. Check whether the fault appears again. a If the fault does not appear again, replace the airbag unit. b If the fault appears again, disconnect plug connection to the contact unit and attach special tool 9516/1. 5. Clear the fault memory. 6. Check whether the fault appears again. a If the fault does not appear again, replace the contact unit. b If the fault appears again, check the wiring harness for pinches and chafing damage. c If no fault is found on the wiring harness, replace the triggering unit. Proceed as described below to determine whether the fault was eliminated: 1. Clear the fault memory. 2. Switch oft ignition. 3. Remove ignition key. 4. Switch on ignition. You may need to borrow the airbag tool (a special resister in box with the correct connector - I think) or find a shop that has one. I don't know if this will be helpful or not, but I will toss it out. You MIGHT be able to use a 1/4 watt 2.9 ohm resister wired in in place of the special airbag tester part. I think all you are trying to do with the tester is set up the proper resistance that the airbag would provide to see what happens with the light - if it goes out, then you have a probelm with the airbag - if it stays on, then there is a problem with the wiring upstream. I seem to have stumbled onto the right resistance for the driver's airbag. How and why? I have a track dedicated 986S, and I took my stock wheel out to replace with a quick release to facilitate egress. (Fancy way of saying I have trouble getting my fat a** out quickly.) The airbag light was annoying. I tested the resistance across the airbag, and got yelled at by all my fellow renntechers for stupidity - risk of setting the thing off. Turns out, it is not an accurate way anyway. I researched and found the 944 race cars use the 2.9 ohm resister wired in to do exactly what I want to do. Assuming they are the same, I tried it - and it has worked no problem since then. 2.9 ohm is not a standard resister value. I had to "build" one with the help of my electrical engineer neighbor - I got a big bag of them from radio shack, and he helped me select ones to wire together to get to 2.9 ohms. Problem is - i don't know definitively that this is the right resistance - all i know is it works to keep the light off with my driver's side air bag removed.

Assuming the 993 has coilovers.....Take a look to see if the Bilsteins are threaded. If so, then likely it is a simple job of rotating the two "nuts" on which the springs sit. You will need two spanner wrenches, assuming two nuts. You loosen the bottom one, and then raise the car by rotating the other...then move the second nut tight against the first. If the damper is not threaded, then you will need longer springs or helper springs and divider plates. Note either way, you will need an alignment after raising - it will change your toe settings. For reference, here is a picture of an old front H&R coilover from a 986 with a couple of spanner wrenches. Note the threaded body and the two "nuts".

Yes. If you take the boot off, it is a good idea to clean up the joint, inspect it, and then repack when the new boot goes on. I would think your indy will have the right grease. I wonder where is was coming from, a hole or past the clamped end. Those clamps don't always hold so great. I've quit using the Porsche clamps and use an older style now.

It's not uncommon for the boots to develop a hole, allowing in dirt and gunk that can degrade the grease, and then have a damaged CV joint as a result. Based on your original post, it sounded like the indy was saying they will need to be replaced soon, not that they currently have a hole in them...if that is the case, I bet your CVs are fine, and he is just advocating some preventative maintenance.

I think one of the actual values in durametic is a reading about how saturated the charcola filter is - you might want to take a look at that value. I think I know which one you are referring to, and the reading is -6. carbon canister, right? I think it is supposed to be somewhere between 0 and 30, with 30 being full. -6? that's weird More from 7.8 diagnostics Possible fault cause ♦ Purge air line blocked ♦ EVAP canister purge valve sticks in the opened position (this causes continuous vacuum to go from the intake manifold to the tank system) ♦ EVAP canister shutoff valve is blocked/sticks in the opened position ♦ Flow resistance of EVAP canister too high (filter deformed/ blocked) ♦ Pressure sensor connected incorrectly (polarity reversal)

I think one of the actual values in durametic is a reading about how saturated the charcola filter is - you might want to take a look at that value. I think I know which one you are referring to, and the reading is -6. carbon canister, right? I think it is supposed to be somewhere between 0 and 30, with 30 being full. -6? that's weird

Is the clutch in an 83 SC hydraulic like the modern days P's?? Or is is a cable? Assuming it is not hydraulic, if the clutch pedal goes to the floor and does not return, what should I look for? A broken or detached cable?

I think one of the actual values in durametic is a reading about how saturated the charcola filter is - you might want to take a look at that value.

To add to minny's answer -- it holds the grease in, and keeps contaminants out.

I think it is time, water and contaminants - all related, with time being king, IMO. Water in the fluid can boil and become vapor, which compresses and steals the pressure you want applied to the pads. Glycol based fluids absorb water, so the longer it is in the system, the more time it has to absorb water. With water, it begins to lose its anti corrosive nature, allowing more contamination. I think Porsche's recommended interval is 2 years.

I'm not familiar with the screen on a 996, but on a 986, it just lifts straight out. I just lift it out with my fingers as I can never get the proper grip with needle nose. If it is really stuck in there, that seems strange....on my 986, the little screen basket does not have any O ring, or gasket or anything to deteriorate - it is just the same plastic as the reservoir. If you cannot get the screen out to get a syringe or turkey baster in through the holes to suck the reservoir near empty, you can simply expell the fluid out through one of the bleeder valves and then refill, flush, and bleed.

The ABS lines hold very little fluid. MO - you do not need the PST2 unless you have air in the ABS lines, and that is likely only if you are changing ABS components. I've completly removed the calipers on my 986, let the lines drip with fluid while I rebuilt, and then proceeded with a flush and several rounds of bleeding - no ABS activation and no problems at all. And during the bleeding, work your way around (assuming LHD) right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

I use Delvac in my track car. No problems at all. Not as easy to get as the PTX.