ericinboca

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ch++replacement The tool is referenced in the document in this post, and I think you can get it through here - http://www.samstagsales.com/

We went through the diagnostic yesterday. Someone along the way in the life of this 911 has made some electrical changes, so I don't have a definitive answer. But we heard nothing out of the CDI module and did determine there is power to it. It goes for a bench test this week, and a likely rebuild. (We found a guy in FTL, FL that says he can rebuild for $220 with a 5 year warranty. Intersting -- we will see.)

I might be completely wrong, as I have not messed around with a Cayenne. But I think it is on the drivers side, behind the center console. I think you get to it from inside the cabin. Have you tried there?

I think the H&R stuff is pretty good. I had a set of first generation H&R sport coilovers - I liked them a whole lot - lowered the car 1, 1.5 and stiffened it up some. I only moved on from those to have adjustability for the track. Also like the H&R sway bars on my 986S.

My recommendation would be P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser. Fairly mild stuff. Good polish prior to a wax. I;ve used it to remove hard water stains before.

thanks this is a great document and, yes, the $300 price was a permatune also found a place that rebuilds bosch CDIs

I have an '04 986S special edition that has silver calipers. This model year special edition was 50th anniversay of the spyder. The car is carerra GT silver, with two tone wheels also.

Thanks wvicary. Is there a way to test it? Or does no noise mean it is the culprit? Looks like rebuilt ones with a core exchanges is almost $300.

1983 911 SC won't start. We don't get a spark - either out of the wires from the distributor cap, or straight out of the coil. We swapped out the coil twice with two new ones, and still don't get a spark either way. We have power to the coil - BUT - how much power should be getting to the coil?? Maybe there is indequate voltage getting there for the coil to do its thing.

It was not hard. Just pay attention to the order the factory has installed the washers and bearings on door side attachment point - I think I reused some of those. You may also want to remove the seat to install the tunnel side attachment point - to have room to get your hands and a wrench in there. I assume the Kirkey has a mount point on the seat for the tunnel side. And you may want to leave the factory belt installed and plug it in under the seat so the airbag continues to operate - or at least turn off the airbag light), assuming your model works the same as my '04. I used a zip tie to strap the belt receptacle that came off the factory seat to the floor, and then plugged in the belt (with the electronics attached to the air bag controller harness, of course). You may figure out a cleaner way to do it, but it works for me as aesthetics are not a priority on this dedicated track car. I used R-9004 on the tunnel side - you may need R-9001 depending on the location of your attachment point on the tunnel side - for me, with the Sparco Evos, it was on the seat in a place that did not require the extra long ones. On the door side, it was R-9003. For the anti-sub belt, it was R-9030, but, I think R-9030 only works with the BK side mounts. So this is probably going to be more of a challenge for you. You might have to find a generic anti sub bar that will mount to the factory sliders, or to whatever you have for mounting the Kirkey. bkauto.com is a pretty clear website - check it out. I ordered online from the cheapest vendor I could find. Don't remember who now, but I just googled and researched till I found the best deal.

I think it really depends on how experienced you are and on the course. If this is one of your first forays into road course driving, then you will be fine with your set of tires, no problem. You want your street tires to be worn some. A beginner driver is more likley to find wear related to inadequate camber adjustment rather than simply rubbing off the rubber. As for the pads - well, street pads are not designed to handle the heat that CAN be generated on the track. But, will you be able as a driver to exceed their heat capacity? Or is the course such that there are not many opportunities to cool them down? In the DE club in which I instruct, we tell novices not to worry about their pads on their first weekend out - not many drivers get good enough the first or second day to cook the pads. If their pads are more than half gone, though, we adivise a back up set in case they go through the existing set. We do tell them to be sure their fluid is fresh, clean with no air. After a weekend or two, then they have to move up to a higher temp capable race pad. Hope that helps.

Gus - I have a 5-point harness in my 04 986S with Sparco Evo seats. I used Brey-Krause hardware to attach the lap belts, and a Brey-Krause bar for the anit-sub belt, as well as Brey Krause side mounts for he seats. They make good very good stuff. I did not need a harness bar for the shoulder belts - they pass cleanly through the holes on the seat and loop around the horizontal bar on the roll hoops. If you are installing a harness for track use, be extra careful about the angles of the shoulder straps - most harness makers will tell you in their literature what the angles should be. If the angle is too acute, the harness cannot work properly - one way it compresses you; the other, it does not hold you down if you are inverted.

TriGuy - I have a 2004 986S that has been driven exclusively (after break-in) on the track for 19,000 miles. A track car has a hard life - some people say one track mile is equivalent to 6 street miles. I'm not so sure about that, but the idea of a ratio helps illustrate the wear-and-tear a track car gets. I know for certain it spends more time at 4000 to 7000 RPMs than it does under 4000 RPM. And the number of times I have red-lined it, would make a Porsche warranty guy go into spasms. At Sebring International Raceway, it is under under at least 1.5 lateral Gs 17 times a circuit. (I know from my data acquisition system.) Never had oil starvation problems. ( I did overwhelm the AOS because the Gs, but a replacement with Porsche Motorsports AOS solved that.) Knock wood - I have never had a serious issue. My engine oil analysis guy says the internal wear I am experiencing is ideal. Transmission, clutch - all original, and it shifts like new. I just rebuilt my brake calipers, figuring the bore seals were shot - nope - they were fine. It runs at the same temp in January at Sebring as it does in August. I've never added a drop of coolant - hasn't needed it. In the last few years, I can only think of four things that have "broken": * upgrade to the Porsche Motorsports AOS mentioned above (attributable to track use) * the parking brake switch in the console that triggers the top failed * a roll spring came out of my brake caliper (attributable to track use) * and the horn failed in the first 1000 miles, and fixed under warranty I take care of it with an accelerated maintenace schedule versus what it would get as a street car, and it continues to run great.

Are you talking about releasing the ball joint on the lower control arm from the wheel carrier? If so, I recommend a ball joint separator - available at harbor freight or auto parts stores - like this. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=99849 Be careful though. You have to move the rubber boot on the ball joint down as much as possible to get the collar of this tool in tight against the metal shank - it is barely long enough as it is - if any of the boot is in the way, the end of the hinged jaw does not sit square on the head of the threaded rod. It is easy to crush and distort the head of the threaded rod that comes up out of the ball joint. You can screw it up enough to need a replacement control arm. (At least I have :o ) I have also pulled the axle and wheel carrier with the control arm still attached to the wheel carrier. I was able to smack the control arm with a hammer several times after liberal application of PB Blaster - the vibrations can release the shank from the carrier. When reassembling, use plenty of anti seize.

Here is the short version of my question: Does removing all four calipers by disconnecting the line that connects on the backside of hte caliper, and then leaving them off for an extended period of time, necessitate an ABS bleed (meaning having a PIWIS or PST2 ABS bleed)? Long version: This is an '04 track-dedicated 986S. After two years of heavy track use, I started to get strange, uneven wear on my pads. During the off season (now), I decided to rebuild the calipers - replace the bore seals, dust boots, bleed screws and the pistons. I've removed the calipers from all four wheels, and the calipers are on their way to be media blasted (going to repaint too) while I wait for the new parts to come in. I've simply let the fluid drip into buckets under each wheel. I have not opened any ABS lines - not touched anything except disconnecting the lines in the wheel well. Do I need to have an ABS bleed when I put this back together, or will multiple and thorough conventional bleeds (after refilling with a motive power bleeder) be adequate? I've read other posts about changing the brake lines, and the consensus was an ABS bleed in that scenario was not needed. Wondering about this specific situation though. Thoughts?

The harder ride I am refering to was due to the solid (all solid aluminium with no rubber) bushings I installed for the track. It greatly improves the driver's ability to feel grip, but makes it unsuitable for daily driving. If you put in urethane or normal bushings with rubber, you will restore it to a "factory" like ride - it will not be harsh like solid bushings. If you have worn out your old bushings, and put in new ones, you will be thrilled with the improvement.

Ouch. I lost my lug key once. The dealer had a set, and he tried them one at a time until he found the one that fit. A new one was something like $45. If you don't mind tearing up your lug bolts, craftsman has something called a Bolt-Out set that can handle up to 19mm. Just an idea.

I've replaced all the bushings, mounts and spherical bearings on my 986S. I replaced with solid bushings, etc. as my 986S is a dedicated track car. You may know, but just in case - you do not want solid bushings, bearings, etc on a daily driver. The noise increases significantly, and ride quality is greatly diminished. By the same token, however, new bushings will make a dramatic and positive difference if your old ones are really shot. As I was looking for the solid bushings, I came across lots of urethane bushings. I would think you can get them, and it should be way cheaper than new arms. With the right tools, it is not hard. Just took a lot of time. Special tools I used included a ball joint seperater and a shop press. There are bearing tools available, but the shop press made things really easy - and if you have one or access to one, use it instead. I removed the control arms, the trailing arms, etc. - pressed out the old stuff, and pressed in the new.

I continue to be a big fan of the BFG R compunds in the 18" size. Yes, I trailer my 986S - it is dedicated to the track. I have had an interesting and new experience with street tires on it at the track lately. I use a set of Bridestone Pole Position as a rain tire. Recently, while visting the Sebring Club course, I corded my rear BFGs after a long and fruitful relationship, and put the Bridestones on to finish out the day even though it was dry. These street tires have very little wear on them - full tread. They chunked a little. With the course being pretty rough, the heat, and me really flogging it, I broke out some of the tread. If they were shaved a little or had more natural street wear on them, they probably would not have chunked. But then again, they wouldn't be as effective as a rain tire for me.

Doesn't the "red" hose snake its way over to the driver's side and connect to cylinder 4? I may not be remembering this correctly, but that is what I think. (I installed a Porsche Motorsports AOS in my track decdicated 986S as the stock one was inadeqaute for the Gs. I just can't remember all of it clearly.) If I am correct, then its purpose is to carry excess liquid oil and dump it back into the crank. I wouldn't expect oil in that hose to be very clean, but what you show in the picture seems a little unusual. However, if you are not showing any other oil related problems, and you are changing your oil and filter regularly, I would chalk it up to previous owner for now. I'd replace the hose and recheck in 5K to 10K miles.

Take the wheel off and look if you can. There is not all that much under there. There is a transverse control arm - it is at the bottom, attaches to the aluminum cross member on the inside, and attaches to the wheel carrier with a ball joint. There is a diagonal control arm - it runs from a front frame attachment point to the transverse control arm. And there is the tie rod - this is part of the steering rack and attaches to wheel carrier - on the forward edge of the wheel carrier if I remember correctly. There are other bits and pieces under there, of course, such as drop links, coilovers, etc. I would look hard at the tie rod. I think that is the mostly likely culprit. Inspect your wheel too - you might have bent the rim. (If you did bend the rim, don't throw it out - send it off to be straightened. Much cheaper.) I recently did some suspension upgrades on my track dedicated 986S (solid bushings, mounts and bearings plus adjustable coil overs). I replaced one transverse control arm - it was something like $350, and one rear toe adjustor for $75 I think. I have not priced an outer tie rod, but I would guess $100 ballpark??? Labor is another matter. If you are a competent wrench, and you have the right tools, these pieces can be replaced as DIY. You would need to take it to an alignment shop afterward, obviously. One important note - I am not sure of the PSM stuff on your model 986, but I know on later models that there is a steering angle sensor in the steering wheel. If you have knocked the alignment out a huge amount, you might get a steering wheel angle sensor error code (CEL). If your model has this feature, you will want to take your car to a shop that can re-calibrate your steering angle sensor with a PST2 type tools when they do the alignment.

Not sure if this is helpful carrera mike, but I get a tach signal to my traqmate by tapping into P6 on my 986 ECU.

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/VFMod...pe=MainFrameSet

I have a 2004 986S that is a dedicated track car. It is driven very hard with R compound tires. The car has solid aluminum coilover mounts, bushings and spherical bearings. Following two days of a DE this past weekend on the Sebring short course, there was a little bit of grease coming out of the hole on the end of the rear axle (you have to remove the center cap to see the outside end of the axle). It was not much - if you scraped it all up, I would say it is barely a half teaspoon. It is the drivers side only, although I do recall the passenger side did the same thing briefly right after a rear wheel bearing change. I figured that bit of grease was related to the wheel bearing change - I cleaned it up, and did not have the issue again. I do not know enough about the axle to to be able to figure out where it is coming from. Does this hole extend the length of the shaft and open into the inner CV joint? If so, could it just be grease migrating down under the g load? Other possibilities? The CV boots, both inside and outside, are tight and whole, with no grease making its way past the CV clamps. I do not hear any noise that would make me think I have a bad CV joint (or bearing). Any ideas?

I'm sorry. I didn't realize you where expereinced and knew what you were doing. :o My advice probably wasn't too helpful. I'll lamely try to redeem myself by sharing my experience with R-compounds. Depending on your wheel size, including offset, I think you will find more choice in 18 and 17 inch than 19. In the 18 inch size, I've used the Yoko ADVAN before. They were pretty good. They are a medium compound, not nearly as soft as the Hoosiers or BFGs, which are essentially slicks, but once they got hot, they offered much more grip that street tires. They also have some tread, and I've seen some Carrera guys and Lotus guys use these in the rain and drive them to the track. Same for the Pirellis, but I've never used them. I've also seen people drive the Pilot Sport Cups to the track and in the rain. I found them to be softer, and grippier than the Yokos, bit not as soft as the BFGs. On the camber, I remember when I first got started, I saw lots of outside tire wear, I went to get a camber change, and the Porsche speed shop told me that they find alignment settings from the factory to be inconsistent. With an '06, you may not have had an alignment, and you may not have any adequate negative camber dialed in. If that is your case, you probably would benefit from some additional negaitve camber in the front - better tire wear and more contact patch. I'm not sure what setting would be good as a combination street and track. As reference, I have -2.0 in the front right now, but will probably go to -1.8 soon as I plan to go with a stiffer spring set up. But it is strictly a track car - rides on a trialer to the track. An finally, I found the pagid orange to have a lot more grip at lower temps than the yellow. The yellow lasts much longer though. Hope that helps.