Pkscheldt

+1 wvicary. I had a similar issue with my first CTT. It ended up being a steering rack. It did stall a few times on the road before I had the issue. From this board: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42712-2003-cayenne-turbo-will-not-start/

here is a great DIY tutorial that Voodocat completed a couple of years ago. Spot on: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/265-cayenne-turbo-cooling-t-pipe-replacement/

Definitely sounds like the T's. I swear, all of these parts go at about the same time. The T's are pretty straight forward to replace, just a compete PITA because there's so little room back there. Manifold off squeeze in behind and scrape hands and elbows and replace. Also, your coolant reservoir is the next to go on "the list." they crack and leak after time.

IMHO only if they're genuine. For CV's remans are absolutely fine. Because of the sheer number on the road of the VW brother to the Cayenne there are a lot of poorly made non OEM parts out there in the market that have been sourced out of china to meet the need. Most are cheap for a reason.

I had bad luck with an aftermarket CV, but great luck with remanufactured ones from A1Cardone - they are everywhere out there online - Cardone didn't sell them directly, but through many different outlets. I believe I paid 50$ each, had a core charge and was refunded the charge within a week. I found that for 2003-2010 the front cv's were interchangeable between all models Cayenne, Touareg and q7. I believe the actual part number for the front axles was: 955-349-038-13 The fronts both went out around 130K and the backs at 140K.

did the diff and both cv's on my original CTT, but it could also be the stepper motor.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45401-transfer-motor-replacement-stepper-motor/

They should fit provided they are sized for your year and model. You will need to remove the rails you have on though. Here are the instructions that were sent to me years ago that I used to remove my rails: I just removed my roof rails. Each roof rail has three rubber grommets. I found it easiest to pop them out with a small standard screw driver. After you pop out the grommets, you will have to unscrew the six hex screws. After the hex screws are removed just wiggle the rails and they will break free. To remove the six brackets you will need to use a torx screw driver. The torx screws are really tight so you will need a tool with plenty of leverage. A socket torx will not fit so you will have to use one with a screw driver handle. I decided to sacrifice my torx screw driver and used a vise grip on the handle to give me the added leverage needed.

I am on same page abtmansfi. Porsche is making money on their scam. The attorneys are making an embarrassing amount of money as usual. Only reason they jumped on this. The gal from Idaho should hold out. Porsche should have called in the cars and fixed the pipes. Simple. It would go a lot further in goodwill and is the "RIGHT THING TO DO". AND it would have cost them less than fighting it. Not to mention the taste left to anyone who may make another purchase. Nothing more pathetic than a donkey dance of denial and being drug into class action. There will be a whole bunch of us in this same boat who can't "afford" their settlement and the rest who do will still be getting the shaft. Only in a different way. The argument that both sides should be happy that neither side is happy is a false equivalent and is a testament to where the American legal system is parked. I can't imagine any Cayenne V8 owner whose vehicle was built from 2002 to Dec, 2006 wouldn't agree that they/we got shafted. Of course Porsche should have done the right thing and recalled these years ago..... There were multiple lawsuits that have taken over seven years to progress to where we are now. Porsche should have fixed these cars and did not, would not and wouldn't acknowledge there was even a "known" fix at first, as I mentioned the first time I paid to fix it they (dealer) replaced the plastic pipes with plastic pipes. I was told it was simply a part failure. I was involved in one of the original individual suits filed. If this were some exercise we were sitting around observing that would be one thing, but many did take action because Porsche did not and the lawsuits that were filed against Porsche were combined into this class. Porsche didn't "jump" on this, they came along kicking and screaming. It was important that the settlement was arranged in a manner that gave individuals the opportunity to exclude themselves from the class and pursue their claims independently if they chose. This "gal" had that opportunity to take that route as did any others because we took action. It is VERY clear at this stage that this "gal" is once again going to be denied AGAIN because she waited too long and did not opt out when she could have and is now just slowing the small payout to the rest of the class of tens of thousands.

I'd just like to get some $$$ back. I replaced mine in 07 with low miles I went round and round with PCNA and they denied vehemently that there was any chance it was a design flaw, it was then re-replaced with the metal versions a couple years later. I was extremely frustrated, although this Attny/claimant out of Boise definitely has taken disgruntled to a level quite a bit beyond where I was. It is shocking that she is holding this up, I've been involved in this class with an Attny since 2007. It was pretty clear on my end that joining the class was the only route.

I too appreciate the update on the case. I may be wrong, and I certainly don't want to argue that the lawyers are being underpaid, but it looks to me like there are multiple firms and based on the court docs I read the expenses are WELL in excess of 250K. Considering that the total settlement is in excess of $36,000,0000. It seems to me the class got a discount. http://www.coolantpipesettlement.com/court Regards,

Ok, was at the P shop yesterday for service on the new CTT and the Master tech was working on my car. This is what he told me re this issue and I hope it helps: There are many reason's why the first gen CTT has a rough idle in general, and then as the vehicle ages certain parts can contribute to a worsening of the issue. TB, MAFS, Fuel Pumps, 02 Sensors, Coils/Plugs etc. He mentioned with emphasis that quite a few of the aftermarket coils that are out there are suspect. He also said that because the maintenance $$$ are so high on these and the secondary market value of the vehicle is so low he really sees very few that are over 5 years old in the shop and when he does they typically have quite a few stored codes because of lack of maintenance and in general the "system" on first gen Cayenne's don't handle multiple fault/stored codes well - he said it can have the similar effect that a failing battery can have. (this made me laugh quite a bit) Where the motor and trans mount(s) contribute to the issue is in the "seat of your pants feel" through the chassis. Once the Hydraulic motor mounts start to and all eventually fail they are no longer masking the poor idle and you then feel it. He said it's like night and day.

If you had the Duramteric or PIWIS you could pull codes for the throttle body and values for the MAFs. All of which need a good cleaning if they haven't been at 125K. It is well documented (read through many posts here and with the VW's) that bad motor mounts/transmission mount on Gen I V8's have caused rough idle. They did on mine, PNA is who recommended the fix. I went through everything from fuel pump, new throttle body (I have an extra if you'd like it) MAF's, fuel system, to all vacuum lines, plugs and coils (6 total set for 175K miles) At 140K all mounts including the transmission mount had completely failed, they were between 15 and 20mm shorter than the replacements on mine. The 02 sensors being replaced helped a bit as well. If you reference an early comment of mine I mentioned that often my issues with the 03 CTT were caused by a few issues happening at the same time. But to find any logic in the cause of the many of the issues I had was a fools errand... Examples: explain why an extremely minor volt drop in the battery on my previous cayenne could cause a PSM failure warning and shut down the air suspension and put the car in limp mode or a can bus system failure or randomly the nav and head unit, but they did for me and for many others. The fact is while the Gen I is a great car and is physically tough, it's wonky as hell when it comes to "electronic" issues such as idle PSM and eventual can bus issues. The Durametric tool was invaluable for clearing these random codes providing a reset. Go to your local P dealer walk into service and have a chat with a tech, they'll tell you, they'll also tell you they've worked through most of the issues in the subsequent gen's. I found that I loved the 03 enough to overlook some of these quirks. When I started running into multi thousand dollar repairs the last year I bailed. Do a quick search on this forum for "2003 Cayenne Turbo Won't Start" and you'll see the reason she and I parted ways. Back when that happened folks such as Wv suggested that I replace the battery, which by the way should always be where you start, unfortunately it ended up being a little more involved in my pocket book.... Right before that I replaced the Trans valve box and control module - that was actually a fun project but a little pricey. Cheers!

I agree on the 2010 CTT, I purchased a 2013 CTT much better lines etc. for my taste. I purchased my 2003 CTT new and loved it for over 10 years, but lived with many issues and completed dozens of DIY projects some of which were electronic and were never resolved even after module replacements re-flashes etc. I'll add this though, you are posting on this forum asking for help/suggestions, some of the resolution you are and will be seeking on your CTT will prove to be insanely expensive, but that's part of your journey. Do yourself a huge favor and buy the Durametric asap, It will help you with nearly all of the issues you've played though including your fuel pumps, idle etc.

It's unfortunate that the issues we live with on these cars don't always line up with easy cheap fixes.... I pulled the invoice on mine, I paid 7 hours to have the mounts replaced and then a bit more to have the 02 sensors replaced while they were at it. It worked in my case. The ultimate fix for all the wonky issues I was having though with my aged CTT was replacing it with a new one. Cheers!

It is, but It most likely is causing the idle drop. It did on mine as a matter of fact every rubber bushing on your PIG is suspect.

Realistically everything you've replaced probably should be replaced with the age of your CTT. My experience on my first CTT (03 new to over 175K Miles) was that issues like you are describing are often caused by several issues that are occurring concurrently. Really the only way to accurately diagnose in my case was using a Durametric tool and the latest software. Also, do yourself a favor and replace the motor mounts. In my local club I haven't seen one 03, 04 or 05 that didn't need new ones. Also your starter is probably a couple months from starting to sound like a kazoo, don't forget the transmission mount as well. Good on you on the 89 rebuild. Cheers!

It is one or more of the MANY servo motors you have in your HVAC system under the dash beginning to fail. These servo motors are opening and closing flaps that are routing AC or Heat. They fail after time. When they do certain vents stop blowing heat/air. Google: diy servo motor dash cayenne Cheers!

I can tell you from experience that the head gaskets do "go" on these, as my 2003CTT's did. In my case we had the engine pulled for the repair. White smoke on start up and disappearing coolant was my only indicator. A little beyond my DIY.... Take it in and have the cooling system pressure tested, the test will be the least of your expense. Best of luck to you!

For number 1) I would check ALL rubber bushings in the suspension. They will ALL eventually end up cracking and need to be replaced. For Number 2) I suspect you are experiencing the well documented transmission valve body issue that impacted my original CTT and many others. My first problems were 2nd to 3rd harsh shifts, then clunking downshifts from 5th to 4th that were horrendous. google search "valve body issue porsche cayenne" for a good overview of the issue and the solution. I purchased a remanufactured valve body and had it installed and it completely fixed the issue.

I went through a very similar issue with the 2003 CTT and the DME. JFP is spot on with the need for Authentic Porsche PIWIS and software subscription. Coding a new or Used replacement is a very involved process.... Diy'ing this can be a nightmare - it was in my case.

I'm fairly certain you are going to need to find a tech or dealer that has PIWIS to resolve your issue. It's a coding issue that needs to be read and applied/resolved between your PCM and your MOST system and head unit. Had this issue on a Boxster, ended up pulling the entire system and replacing all with an aftermarket one.

Here is some of our friends saga from Frankfurt re: dead battery: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46169-alternator-generator-battery/?hl=ekstroemtj#entry251316

Actually it really does follow. If your CTT is 10 years old it would be a good idea to clean the throttle body and the MAFS. The MAF sensors do effect fuel metering in your CTT. Cheers!

For what it's worth. I had similar symptoms with no codes. Disconnected both MAFS (it did then throw two codes) and the car ran fine. Cleaned both MAFS, reconnected and all was well. Cheers!

I absolutely agree with all of the above. Further my SA at the Porsche/Mercedes Dealer I bring my cars into has told me in the past that he regularly sees early Cayennes come in that are 9+ years old with the original serpentine belts on. He says it's the one service item that is the most neglected.