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Showing results for tags 'cayenne turbo'.
Found 16 results
Hi all I’ve been fighting with the cayenne again let’s me put the key in and turn it then I get steering fault as attached any ideas of a way around this or a reset thanks car won’t start
Hi Everyone! Long time Lurker and final a first time Porsche owner! I just got a new to me 2008 CCT with 56K miles on it. I really like it but I am already having several issues with it. The good news is, the dealership I got it from is including a 60 day 3K mile 100% warranty on all parts and repairs. One of the several issues I am having is it sounds like the power steering pump is going and it makes a loud whining noise and they are saying it's normal. The ps fluid level is normal, but it is a very distinct noise that I can hear from a distance away. I would really appreciate if you could help me decipher this noise. Here is a video of the noise. Other problems are: Needs a new driveshaft. Needs the thermostat replaced. It keeps throwing a 1117 Load Signal Generator Terminal DF. Battery is reading 13.4 max with no load running and drops to 13.0 with lights etc. on. They insist it's good. Brakes won't stop squealing after replacing pads and they had to replace they front left Accelerometer because of the air lift system error. WHEW! I still thinks it's going to be an awesome vehicle. I go back this week to drop it off for 2 days for all those repairs but I want to make sure I get everything that is obvious. Also since they will have the intake manifold off, I was thinking I should replace the Plastic T connectors for the coolant lines. Is there anything else I should deal with while they have it all apart? Ignition coil packs? adding this for new readers: Thanks for any help guys. Sincerely, Ryan
Hi Porsche people I changed the spark plugs of my 955 CTT yesterday and I think the plug on cylinder 6 is not as the others. For me it does not show a realy scary image, and I'm sure it is not urgent but can you see something more?
Hello everyone, This is my first post but I have done tons of forum searching and found similar posts but nothing with my same codes. I have noticed a rough idle but once I drive the car drives great and boosts great. Along with the 2 EVAP codes I have P0300, P0301, P0304 and P0308. I have changed the spark plugs and I did a full inspection of the coil packs. The coil packs looked perfect, no cracks or damage and it needed new plugs so I did Beru plugs. In that process I changed the torque arm also because the rubber was shot. That didn't solve the misfire and I didnt notice any wiring issues or connector issues. Onto the EVAP stuff. I have the two codes P2401 & P0448. Just put a new gas cap on and cleared the codes, they come right back. I also checked the oil fill cap and its seal looks great (no cracks in the oring). Does anyone have any idea or run into these same symptoms? I have an appointment at my local Indy shop in a few days but would like to go in prepared. They're going to start with a smoke test looking for a vacuum leak. Thanks in advance, Evan
Hey. I'm new to this forum and owner of a Cayenne turbo 2004., I have had the airbag yellow warning light on since I replace the battery. I didn't receive any error code. And I follow the previous post on this forum tried to use the PIWIS to erase the faulty memory, it didn't work though. And I also tried to disconnect the battery, but the light still on. I bought a Maxicheck(it's more direct and easy for me to use than PIWIS) to detected where is the problem which shows control module faulty 3 and belt tensioner, passager's side, rear 4BC. also the actual value shows almost everything is "too big". So my question right now is does it means my control unit need to be replaced? And if I replace it use the used parts do I still need to do the "locking steps"(I saw people talking about the airbag lock in other post). English is my second language hope I can get everything explain well. Thanks for your help.
Anyone knows what kind of steering wheel is the following?
Hi all. I'm new to the forum and after reading quite a bit about the dreaded plastic coolant pipe failures, I've decided to do the pipe replacement as one of my first projects on this car. I'm about to place the order for the parts I need for the job, but I wanted to get some additional input before I do so. I just purchased a 2008 Cayenne Turbo 4.8DFI with 29,000 kms. Well cared for but I am almost sure it still has the plastic pipes. There is no coolant loss at this point but I want to be able to use the car for a long time with confidence. I live in a very hot climate so I don't want to take the chance for pipe failure as the mileage increases over time. Aside from the plastic pipes failing, I read somewhere about the barb on the water distributor housing coming loose with the hose still on the barb. Meaning the barb comes off the housing itself. A common fix is to glue the barb back on with loctite red. Another common fix is to insert a set screw into the housing by drilling a hole into the housing itself and into the barb to hold it in place. My question is, should I bother doing this as a preventative measure when I go in to replace the coolant pipes if mine hasn't come loose yet at this point? Would anyone know if the replacement water distributor housing I can order has an upgraded barb? Or is it still the same water distributor the car came with? (part #94810606106 ) Here's a shot of the barb failure from someone's 2009 CTT with 50k miles. And here's the fix he did with a set screw Thanks in advance.
My 955 turbo has consumed nearly 10L of coolant in the past 40 days. No apparent exterior leak (haven't opened up engine covers yet). White smoke exhaust upon cool-cold start up, tubes are done. Cooling system seems pressurized when I open reservoir cap. Apart from head gasket potential are there any other possibilities? Through intake somehow? Through turbos? Doesn't overheat. Help please
Hi All, I wanted to thank everyone for all the DIY's and other information on this forum. Its been a BIG help! Anyhow, I have a 2005 Cayenne Turbo which has an electrical issue that will not seem to go away. This issue recently is the battery has been draining intermittently to the point where i let the car sit overnight (10-12 hours) and the battery voltage will go down to 7-8VDC. Other days, I let the car sit for a few days and starts up right away. What I have done/ recorded. I have no Durametric codes when this happens, other than the VBAT low threshold on every module which goes away upon charging the battery and resetting the "module codes" I replaced the battery, one with OEM and bought another one from autozone as a backup, both check out ok. and have been load tested multiple times. (Side note, I do not have the 2nd battery in the trunk) I will get a battery/generator warning every once in a while upon starting which does go away. I have been logging my battery voltage with the durametric and with a DVM in the cig lighter. When this error happens it seems like the alternator is not charging ( 11.2-11.5VDC) When the warning goes away, my voltage goes to 14.2-14.5VDC and stays there constantly. Upon loads, i.e headlights, radio brake lights etc it drops to 13.8-13.9VDC. This is telling me that my alternator is working and charging the battery. I did some resistance checks around the v+ battery terminals and cleaned up what was though as a "higher resistance" on the + cable of about 1 ohm. I cleaned the contacts and put star washers on every screw terminal which fixed this issue. While the battery cable was out, I measured paresitic current draw with the car in "rest/sleep" mode and i only drew 100-150 mA. One thing i notice is when the car is sitting, in rest. I do hear things under the hood along with my radio cd mechanisim every once in a while move. I know for a fact i am not drawing this current but it will settle down and go quite which will then draw 100-150mA Sorry for the long winded start of a thread, I am slowly giving up on what could be a matter with this truck and am hoping any of you could point me in a right direction on this issue. Thanks
Can anybody tell me the actual fuel consumption of his or her Cayenne Turbo or Turbo S? I suppose there'll be quite a difference between what the book says and real life. I'm about to change my 2010 Boxster Spyder :( for a bigger car due to a baby on its way and a Cayenne seems very appropriate for this. I just want to know what I can expect when it comes to fuel. Thanks for the help in advance!
Hello everyone I recently picked up a 2005 Cayenne Turbo here in the Middle East (Qatar - for work).81k on it, a few bumps here and there but nothing major. I looked into the coolant pipes issue before buying it, and I knew what the main issues were going to be going into the purchase. All coils were replaced, coolant tank was replaced (I am still not sure on the lines). Today something new happened. I was driving around on the beach / in the desert, and when I went to get back on the main road (after a few spins in the dirt) I lost power steering. Checked the fluid, and it was right at the MIN line. I tried to turn it around in a parking lot slowly and it was near impossible to move around without accelerating at the turns. I drove it and double checked for a fluid leak - stayed at the MIN line. I had to get it back home from the desert - so 75km into town with no power steering. I have to accelerate through turns - breaking slowly into them makes turning near impossibleI can't turn the wheels when I am stoppedI haven't lost any fluid since this problem startedDriving at highway speeds it feels normal to change lanes, but anything slower becomes incredibly hard to keep on the road. Is this going to be a failed pump? I have no source for parts here - and being the only dealership in the country they can easily gouge me on prices (they wont sell me an oil filter and no-one else in the country stocks them).Im going home to Canada in a week and if I can be sure it is a failed pump, I can pick one up and change it myself when I return.Any help would be appreciated - I've been lurking the fourm looking for similiar problems - if you know of a thread feel free to point me in that direction.Thanks!
Does anyone have the the torques settings for installing a front suspension lower control arm for a 04 cayenne turbo? Thanks :wrench:
All you great mechanics and experts out there I need help... I pulled into the driveway and everything was fine. Went to go somewhere the next day, engine starts fine, moved shifter into reverse to back out and no shift, still in park.. try drive, no drive, try manual/tiptronic no love.. wtf?? The shifter seems to move lighter than before could something in there have broken? I'm thinking if I can't fix I need a mechanic to come to me. Without neutral we can't tow right? .... *sigh* Last thing I need right now is a big bill.. any help/advice/thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! - Andrew
I recently purchased an 04 Cayenne Turbo and two weeks ago had an oil change at my local Porsche Dealer. The service adviser informed me that the vehicle inspection detected a oil leak located in the oil separator located in Bank 2 (5-8). It appears that the oil separator is integral with the camshaft cover and the leak causes excessive oil consumption. I decided to do the repair myself and purchased the camshaft cover at a considerable discount than the dealer quoted. It appears to be a straight forward part replacement. However, before starting the project I would like to make sure that fully understand the part replacement process. Has anyone had experience replacing the cover? Are there any factory repair instruction available, special tools or precaution that need to be observed?
Hi All, I've owned a 2004 Cayenne Turbo now for a year and its a great car when all is working correctly. In the time that I have owned this car, I have been unlucky enough to receive a few error codes on the durametrics program I have or lately on the Rev Diagonistic tool I have for my iphone. I'd just finished fitting new parts for the fuel evap valve and a compressor rebuild kit, and re-setting all the codes in the ECU and all was fine, prior to going away, working abroad for 5 weeks, and all was good when I left. I've got back to find the battery flat (no shock there) but after re-charging it for a day, and going for a good long drive in the country, the car is now majorly playing up, giving me 5 error codes. These are : P0153 O2 sensor slow response (Bank 2, Sensor 1) - (Think this is fair enough, just wear and tear, getting old) but tonight I have this lot :- P0299 Turbocharger Underboost P0300 Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected Now could the above four codes be caused by a poor battery? I've put my multimeter across the battery and it's only about 12.5v sitting idle, although when the engine is on, it's getting the full 14v from the alternator. I'm looking to go and get a new battery next week, but do I go and get it from my local porsche dealer?? or can I get one from the volkswagen dealer (normally the same part as a toureg, but cheaper) or do I go and get one from a parts store?? lastly, I was on the phone to my local dealer this morning and I was asking about coding or re-flashing the ECU, and thing led to another and we got onto the subject of the error codes, storing them and re-setting them. They said to me "when fitting the likes of the oxygen sensor, or the evap valve, the part has to be coded into the ECU". Is this the same as re-settng the codes using the durametrics or Rev app that I have? They also said that, some programs like the bosch systems can't reset the ECU properly and only the Porsche centre computers that the dealers use can reset the ECU properly & fully. Is this BS?, because this is the first I have heard of this? Thanks in Advance Regards Chris
My 04 Cayenne TurboI have 22 inch TechArt Wheels but I'm unsure of the lug nut torque value. The Cayenne Manual indicates that the OEM wheel and lug nut torque value is 118ft/lb. Would the lug nut torque value be any different for aftermarket TechArt wheels?