thewightstuff

yes, it seems to replace the electric/retractable portion only. it was a GT2 style insert the carrera aero one does the same does it not giving you a grill for the space and a spoiler portion that sits up, the TSB for this doesnt help either as it refers to the technical manual for removal but thats about as clear as mud. it may be academic anyways as i think im just going to bite the bullet and go full OEM GT3 aero which is the whole lid indeed and much easier to switch over. its just a case of removing air cowl, fan and latch, unplugging loom and then unbolting at the sides and switching everything over using the new loom to prevent spoiler warning light if my info seems correct.

has anyone got any instructions or tips on how to remove entirely the automatic spoiler unit from the engine deck lid on a C2. ive got the technical manual and looked there but it really didnt seem to be much help, atleast not that i could fathom. i dont want to dismantle the unit, just remove it completely from the lid so that i can bolt in another fixed spoiler in its place.

might seen strange but have you checked the positioning of the tailpipes themselves. if they arent adjusted properly they can get too close to the bumper with undesireable consequences, of which yours are at the extreme end of the scale

thanks for that. i thought as much but had doubts about the actual lid itself. can i ask, does your upper spoiler blade adjust as per the cup cars or is it fixed? does anyone know if the mk2 lid is interchangeable with the mk1 as a straight swap or were there changes to the model that make them unable to be switched?

can anyone tell me what their OEM "taco" wing mk1 gt3 wing or their mk2 spoiler is constructed from? its the deck lid metal as per the regular models or is this whole unit some form of single reinforced fibre or plastic. without going over to the dealer and knocking on some its hard to tell by looking and id like to know as im about to try and track down one in the classifieds

i suppose that is the problem with not reading all the posts before responding then. if you had you would have seen that i wasnt suggesting it was the best solution let alone and good one but merely an adequate one based on the "budget" aspects and what i assumed to be temporary focus of the original post. the most budget of all would be rocks in the trunk, not to disimilar to porsches solution to try and deal with front handling issues by adding lead to the bumper. ive seen cut springs used as both temp fixes and longer term solutions when no others existed for that application without any negative impact at all on cars with serious performance being driven on limits. infact i ran some tests with several friends in our university lab on springs over a wet weekend many years ago to gauge the effect of cutting oem vs average lowering kit versions. we found that removing only 1 link had negligable impact on the spring characteristics particularly dampening/load resistance infact effecting only installed height. in some cases more than this could be accomodated before creating changes but this varied with type. as a result it seemed that doing this modification provided a much more sympathetic and more positive engineering solution than a lowering kit which all had varying rate changes compared to OEM and which the manufacturers could not provide us with calcs as to why their own rates were chosen save being firmer. by going down the route of non oem lowering springs, without a good technical backup of spring rate and reasoning behind it would seem to be a lottery as to what else you get along with your height reduction. just because its firmer doesnt make it better. the spring doesnt work in isolation and so how it interacts becomes an unknown and a deviation. each problem has many options and solutions available and obvious ones may not always be best or an improvement. just because a manufacturer sells something for your hard earned money doesnt mean its better than other alternatives. why this reasoning may not apply to porsche escapes me. i would argue that changing both the aerodynamics of the car, front weight and overall balance as in this case is much more of engineering issue than whether a link is removed from the oem springs to facilitate height reduction or an aftermarket kit is used.

you could go old school and just cut a section out of your springs you have now for the moment. its slightly heath robinson though but it will work just fine with the caveat that whether it will adversely effect performance at the limit and by how much for you in your particular application is anyones money. when i was a lad i used to do this on loads of cars when i didnt have jobs or the money or while i saved for upgrades but still wanted a lower car (which was always) and all it brought and so long as i cut a complete section out, ie cut the end line exactly below the original, always from the top or "softer" end if progressive and never took out more than one link it never made any iota of a difference to ride quality or stability either at normal driving or at the limits and beyond in a negative way but did always give all the benefits of lowered cars. i also never had an issue with dislocation of suspension components either when driving or upon jacking the car. ive done this on cars with much more performance and power than my C2 and that have been tracked hard (though i will add importantly without as much refinement or cost). you cant get much more budget than that though clearly something such as coilovers is going to be far superior. ive found over the years that the average lowering spring kits are often seldom more than just a shorter spring anyways and offer no advantage over a cut spring other than relieving you of your cash. adjusting a manufacturers oem built and rated spring for height if this is all you want is often a far superior measure if a spring change was all that was being looked at. atleast you are only changing one variable, ride height perhaps if you are looking patiently for PS9s or similar this will get you going in the meantime easily for a month or two rather than driving on stilts. if you have lightened the front with fiberglass over the original bumper and its sitting higher due to the lighter load you have already adjusted the suspension characteristics of the car anyways and deviated from norm or ideal

absolutely brilliant write up and pics. ill be bookmarking that for my fit soon.

edited: found the answer on another thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=maf&st=40

i surely do.... its 996 521 609 00 shaft seat cost was about $21 i transposed the numbers in the post above. sorry.

just to update incase anyone ever needs to do this. the seat could be adjusted manually by inserting a small square file into the rear geared mechanism and turning however i purchased a replacement cable and fixed this in about half an hour working with the seat in the car. the cable is like a short speedo cable with square ends to fit into the motor and mechanism. i fitted the front first. the motor requires removal and i found it easier to remove the support bracket from the side of the seat rail then separate the motor from this as i couldnt get access to one screw in situ. the support bracket also doubles as the fixing plate for the cable at the motor end, once off just slot in the cable to the bracket and reattach the bracket by aligning up the square end with the hole in the motor drive then refix to the seat frame loosely. move the seat forward then fit the other end to the geared adjustment mechanism. there were two screws holding a plate to this left from the old cable. with this unscrewed the new plate that is attached as part of the cable is clear to fit here. just insert the cable end into the mechanism and then align and fit the plate to secure. check all is working and if so tighten fully the bracket to the seat rail for the front motor this is it, the cable was about $12.

im trying for the dumbest question of the day award but my trunk compartment light has never functioned and i decided to change the bulb today finally. well i inserted it and it made no difference, the light still doesnt function. before i go over the top with this, am i missing something obvious in terms of turning it on and off and making a false assumption that it just operates with the opening of the trunk itself. where the activating switch for this?

ok, got under the seat and with reference to the other seat it seems that a flex cable that joins the motor to the adjusting mechanism on the side/rear of the seat is missing entirely. working under the seat it is hard to see if this is entirely detachable and just stripped and was thus removed or whether it broke at one end. i tried removing the two torx screws that seem to hold the mechanism to the frame hoping that i could then retract it, freeing the adjustment rack from the teeth which would allow me to rotate it down and then refit locking it in the lowest position but it wouldnt free and there was no obvious reason why. i guess i will have to remove the seat and look at it properly without trying to cram underneath. in the meantime has anyone removed or overhauled these and can tell me how to get it off, what i should be looking at etc. if you have a seat out perhaps you could look for me

the passengers side electric seat on my MY99 C2 wont adjust for height on the rear motor. front works fine as does seat back and horizontal adjustment but the rear height motor spins when lever is adjusted but height doesnt change. anyone got any ideas what might be wrong or where to start? ive looked underneath for the obvious things like something hanging off or restricting movement but nothing jumps out and it doesnt seem too apparent how exactly the rear portion works. is there a way to manually lower this as a temporary fix for now, once its almost full down it wont need moved really anyways

i just popped out and looked at the 18s on my carerra, factory option 413 and none of these display any info externally near the valve at all just to add smoke to this topic maybe only wheels bought aftermarket from porsche have this info or there was a change at some point with this detail coming one side of the watershed and not on the other or was used on some wheels and not the others? loren, do you mean metal valve as in the valve itself or the valve tube? my fronts have regular rubber tubes but metal head/valve assemblies while the rears also have metal valve tubes. if this is not right should i go and have this corrected?

thanks for the picture richard, that looks great and much improved over a matte finish in there amongst them. im going to add my OBC switch up top aswell so with it right next to glossy blanks it would have looked even more obvious.

richard, thanks for that tip. i wasnt looking forward to having an odd switch.

i talked to them today and they can only get me a MY00 at the moment. it was $24.30 which seemed nice so im going to order when i get the list im working on completed. edited to correct price

:) i asked this yesterday, the short answer is no. they werent released as PDF until 2003 and no one has scanned one in yet. you can buy one from your dealer for around $30 however it seems MY99 are rather short but MY00 are available readily. you should be safe enough using the MY03 version as its right with most stuff, just dont get excited when you see the OBC functions as the early cars can only show a few things, temp, average mpg, average speed, speed alarm and distance to empty. hope this helps. loren very kindly scanned his OBC section for me yesterday, its posted further down this forum in the thread i started and in tandem with the later manual should see you relatively right.

thanks tool pants, ive already been all over your posts regarding the mods like a bear on honey but hadnt seen that page. i wasnt even aware of all this until i started delving into them but im up to my arms now :) i got the OBC on today no problemo so thats a start, i couldnt see anyone on the list near me loren but as luck would have it it worked out fine. just need to order in the parts as i can now see how cold it is. im going to go with a dash switch as i dont need anything else down there by my legs and with only a few functions a single button to flip through and the alternate side to reset is perfect for me. i just wish there was a nice button option for it. im going to go with targa blind even though its matte and im glossy. maybe ill upgrade my swtiches to matte anyways once im done. see if it mutes things a little in a good way.

not yet sadly though thats now this weeks task, theres a few dealers here so hopefully one will be accommodating.

thank you so much for that loren, looks like i will just got for a switch in a spare slot and save on the stick. a quick scroll function and a reset is plenty for the small sets of info presented. im in houston,TX via Scotland,UK so im not sure what that makes me :) im just finding my feet with the site but i will say that i will definately be contributing this week. already its been a massive resource just in terms of increasing understanding and education.

ive been rounding up some steam to undertake the OBC retrofit on a MY99 carrera and am swithering with the stalk or switch option. i only have a 2003 model owners manual and obviously the OBC functions listed in this are many, however am i right in thinking that this sort of details is missing in the earlier cars? can i basically only see average speed, fuel economy and distance to empty or am i missing something. im very tall and so using a switch seems like a nice idea though not if ive totally went off on a tangent and indeed theres much more depth that i can navigate with the stalk. can anyone shine any light or better still point me in the direction of pdfs of a more appropriate year manual.