Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carmon997S

  1. Hi Ski, I'm just going off of memory but the plug on the maf sensor is a push type. I also remember it being hard and taking a lot of pressure. When you squeeze it in the right spot you will hear it click usually. I have a 997.2 gt3 and I don't have a bolt that holds the box down so I don't know what to tell you there. Maybe if you can post a pic someone can help. Good luck. Jermmy
  2. I have a 2010 997.2 GT3 and I use the cigarette lighter plug on mine and in have not had a problem.
  3. Carmon997S

    My new GT3

    Congrats and waiting to see more pics.
  4. Sounds pretty normal. As White987S says, just be diligent on your service. I would recommend using Mobile 5W40. I don't think you need the heavier weights unless you are going to track the car. I spoke to Porsche North America not to long ago and they recommended having the higher oil temps to evaporate any moisture or fuel dilution out of your oil. Happy motoring and I wouldn't be worried about it. Jermmy
  5. I have them on my GT3 and I would say they are a bit touch and go in the wet. Wear has been good and the cold does not bother them to terribly bad. If you have a turbo they may not be as bad. With mine being rear wheel drive only, if I touch the throttle just a little to much the rear end breaks loose. With that said, if you are looking for a good track day tire for the wet I would recommend them but for the road it's your call. If you can live with them squirming around a bit on the road I would go for it. They are worth it on the dry days. Jermmy
  6. Hello Matt, Welcome to the forum. Hope you enjoy the GT3 and Happy motoring. :thumbup:
  7. Hi and welcome to the forum. I don't think reliability is an issue with either. The main thing is finding one that has not been abused. Most of these cars are tracked so you need to have it checked out fully. Other than that the .2 has a little higher maintenance cost, mainly because of the center locks. In my opinion I don't think you can go wrong with either version. Just fined one you like and have fun. Happy hunting and let us know if you find something. Jermmy
  8. Personal I would stay way from it. To many possible problems. You don't know if the damage is just on the body. There are a lot of missing parts by the look of it. Also, you don't know how long it has been open to the weather. There could be a lot of water inside causing big electrical problems. With a 10,000 bid and an estimated 53,000 in repairs, I would pass. I would bet it would turn into a money pit also you could find a used on that was road ready for not much more. Just my opinion. Jermmy
  9. Not sure about the firmware updates but I'm guessing the dealer would have to do it. I've been in contact with JMehl and the problem is resolved. It turned out to be a bad interface cable. He replaced it and everything works fine now. Jermmy
  10. I'm not completely sure on the 996 but I would think that it's there for noise dampening. A lot of intakes have foam in them to decrease the amount of sound coming out of them. So if you see no other reason for it to be there and you like the sound, I would say don't worry about it. Jermmy
  11. Your numbers sound about right, maybe a little steep if you are wanting to drive straight in without coming at it with an angle. I was guessing about 8 degrees with the lift up. My drive is about 14 degrees on turn in and I have to come in on a 45 degree angle with the lift up. I barely make it with about an 1/8" clearence. When I first brought it home I had to have my wife get out and watch to see if it was going to clear, lol. With that said I don't scrub the lip too much but I do scrub the deflector in front of the wheel all the time. For some reason it seems to hit things that the lip will clear. Have a good one. Jermmy
  12. I can't give you any exact angles but I know it has to be very shallow with the lift is down. Mine barely clears with the lift up and my drive isn't very steep. What I would do if you want to know the exact clearence angle is put the lift up. Then put a string under the front tire and pull it tight to the bottom of the front lip spoiler. You will be able to use a angle finder or a speed square to get the exact angle. I hope this help and good luck. :) Jermmy
  13. Welcome to the forum. I hope it serves you as well as myself and many others. Very nice turbo and mazda as well. Get out and enjoy driving them every chance you get. I know mine sits in the garage way too much. Happy motoring Jermmy
  14. Hi Maurice, My last post didn't go through for some reason but yes, they may go bankrupt and sell out. If warranties are a big concern I would not recommend any battery other than a stock Porsche battery. A lot of aftermarket lithium battery companies use A123 because they are among the best cells on the market right now. Like most things designed for race use, there are always warranty issues involved outside the companies liquidity. Jermmy
  15. Hi PFBZ, I've never seen the Ballistic but interseting, I will have to look into them. As far as the LiFePO4, they are the way to go as you stated because of the lower chance of them going into melt down. The batteries you listed use the same cells as the one from Lithiummoto. The cells are made by A123 System. So they all should work the same. It's just a matter of finding the right one to suit your needs. Jermmy
  16. Ali Your welcome and glad I could help. Like I said, I don't have any experience with temps below freezing but I've been told it shouldn't be a problem. Again, if it were me I would use a slightly oversized lithium or the Optima at those temps. You could ask the guy at Lithiummoto or you could look at Antigravitybatteries.com. They have a 720 amp lithium for about the same price as my 600 amp. When I talked to the guy at lithiummoto I asked him about making me a larger one. He didn't think I needed it and told me that the 600 amp battery is all I would ever never need and at this point I tend to believe him. Good luck and take care. Jermmy
  17. Hi Ali, When I say cold I'm talking around 40-45 F or lower. These lower temps are a problem with small lightweight batteries of any kind. I'm sure you have noticed even with your stock battery, the car will turn over slower in the winter. The difference is that the stock battery has more reserve capacity to make up for being weak in the cold. Small lithuim batteries need a little help. You have to make them active again. I'm not the best at explaining this but when you put a large amperage draw on them it activates the ions within the battery. This makes the battery heat up. I don't know if you use cordless power tools but if you use a battery powered drill, you will notice the battery getting warm as you use it. This is from it having to work while it is discharging. The same thing happens with the car battery. So by turning on the headlights for about 30 seconds it will warm itself up to operating temp. The same can be done by just turning the engine over. The car may not crank the first time if it is cold but that draw from trying to start will activate the battery and cause it to heat up. Then you wait about 15 to 30 seconds between trying to crank it again. The second time the car should crank normally. I don't like the second method as much but you have to do what it takes. The main thing is that it takes a fairly large amperage draw to cause it to heat up. Thus you need to use the headlights or the starter to get the job done. Now those are the methods for heating it up but honestly I have never had to do either. I started mine about 3 weeks ago at 45 f and it turned over the first time, a bit slow but it still started right up. With all of that said, I can't say how well it will work below freezing. I see you are in St. Louis. I don't drive my car when it is that cold so I can't say how well it would work. I would think you might need a slightly larger lithium battery if you are going to use it below freezing temps or just put your stock battery back in during the winter months. I hope I have helped and didn't confuse you. LOL Have a good holiday. Jermmy
  18. Hello Aehsani, The first year with the lithium has been trouble free. It has performed perfectly. The only thing I have done special is have it on a battery tender if I'm not going to drive it for a week or more. I have let it sit for about 10 days one time without the tender and it still started just fine. I would say in warm weather it actually starts the car better than the stock lead/acid battery. In cold weather it seems a little weak but it still starts the car. In the cold these batteries require some heat. But all you have to do is turn your lights on or try to start the car and it will generate its own heat. Once it is warm it starts just like on a warm summer day. With all that said, I'm very happy with the battery and would recommend it to anyone looking for a (cheaper) lightweight battery option. Jermmy
  19. Hello, Yes there should be a cap on the tube. It's just a slip on black plastic cap. I would see if you have something to put on it until you can get the proper one. Jermmy
  20. I agree with Joe. If it's just the drives side and it only does it when you open and close the door, it's more than likely a wiring problem. I would guess that the jacket on the speaker wire has worn or cracked were it passes from the body to the door. If you have a bare wire and it touches metal, you will get a pop in the speaker. Start from the speaker and work your way back. If you don't find any wear spots or bare wires, then you have a deeper problem if another system in the door. Jermmy
  21. I would inspect the brakes first. Jack the car up and rotate the wheels and see if the brakes are dragging or if you can hear the noise when you turn them by hand. Also, if the car was tracked, it may just have some debis stuck around the wheel or caliper somewhere. So if you are changing tires you can do an inspection then. I would avoid driving much until you check it out. It could be very simple fix or it could be very costly. You won't know until you check it out. Jermmy
  22. I agree with the other guys. Not much of a chance of them seizing in just a few years regardless of the milage. :cheers:
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.