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Moose

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Everything posted by Moose

  1. Moose
    The American Petroleum Institute has a classification CF for diesel engines. I just purchased some Royal Purple 10W40 for summer fill (manual indicates 10W40 for anything synthetic and ambient temps over 50 degrees F). I noticed that the manual also indicates not to put anything in the crankcase that is not API SL rated or better. Will it harm the engine to run it with the Royal Purple 10W40 API CF rated oil in the case? Please advise and many thanks in advance. :oops: I own an '01 Box non-S with manual transmission. It is no longer under warranty but a warranty RMS repair is still under warranty.
  2. Moose
    Interesting that the fuel sender and the recess in the tank are underneath the battery tray. I just removed my tray to do an annual bat maintenance on it after my trouble with the battery-- baking soda'd the tray, removed some leaves, some powdered bat residue, steel brushed it, and painted bare metal spots with black touch up. I'm going to get some new stainless hardware to hold it in place too. Was thinking though . . . WHAT IF the battery corrodes, the end user is a moron (ignores it and never maintains battery with dielectric grease, clean terminals, clean out gunk and residue) and the leakage spills into the sender recess and WHAT IF the recess is filled with gasoline from a bad union nut gasket? Instant poof? Just a scenario-- strange they put the bat box over the fuel tank, but where else?
  3. Moose
    On 928s, the mantra is "relay, relay, relay." This forum is very good for 986/996, but I have seen few 928 posts here. I owned a 928 for three years and used Rennlist.org's email feature for 928 digest emails each day as well as the web fora on Rennlist to discuss problems with my old 928. I think it is fabulous that this forum has a subforum for 928s and I check here from time to time for nostalgia purposes, but I would suggest you use all resources available to you including rennlist.org. Wally Plumley, Jim Bailey, Susan Thomas, et al (they work with parts dealers but are often willing to lend info to the 928 "community"). If you have a 928 already, you probably know this, but just in case . . . :drive:
  4. Moose
    Loren and Blakbox, Thanks for your replies. Update: the Interstate battery was bad. Only eight months old. Replaced by the manufacturer with new warranty starting today. Nevertheless, I will take this advice to heart.
  5. Moose
    Blakbox, I appreciate the response. Using a battery maintainer is not an option for me at this time. Do you think that disconnecting the battery will have an adverse effect on the odometer and other electronic equipment. Rereading my own post, I think I answered my own question. My guess is that the equipment that 'stores' digital information is in fact an EPROM that doesn't require an outside source of electricity. However, I have read that when people hook up their batteries after some time, wierd things happen to their odo's and on other cars, I've heard about coughing and sputtering due to the fuel injection management software needing to relearn how to drive.
  6. Moose
    Over the holidays, my 2001 Boxster 2.7 sat idle without a battery maintainer. I jumped it, drove it out on the interestate and it worked well. It had about a week between that time and the next successful start. It's been just over a week since I last started it-- about 10 days-- and it is now dead again. I should mention that the car has a new Interstate battery as of May 2004. It was in the car when I bought it in September. I have had no problems starting the car until I basically stopped driving it once a week. I've scoured the archives and found that there is a steady draw on the battery from various electronic equipment in the car (alarm system, remote access, etc.) but I just want to be able to disconnect the battery, leave the trunk ajar, and connect it when I want to use it like I did my 1981 Porsche 928. I sense that this car will have a fit if I do that. One, it has an electronic odometer. Two, I'm guessing it has EPROMs that will zero out and require it to "learn" how to drive after I start it again. Three, it has the remote start. If I leave it unlocked, leave the front boot ajar, what would be the downside to just disconnecting the negative lead rather than messing with the maintainer (which also has a hydrogen gas issue, however minor, in an enclosed garage)? I did this successfully for years with my 928.
  7. Moose
    I won an auction for a set of Boxster manuals with a Canadian seller about eight months ago. The seller with whom I dealt is primarily a video game reseller. I don't know that market at all. In any case, I bid before I looked (1) at where he was at (2) what his feedback was. So when we started communicating about the arrangements to exchange money/books, I asked to use an escrow service and apologized for my mistake. He replied that he had already relisted the item. <_< FWIW, I consider the initial mistake to be my own. I would have purchased the item had he agreed to escrow funds. I don't know if it is the same guy, but he assured me that most of his buyers were kids-- and that they were not mature enough to be ebay'ing or providing negative feedback. Your experience may vary. I neither gave nor received any negative feedback.
  8. Moose
    Doh! Thanks again, ar38070, I did find the negative lead. I haven't tested my theory on the multimeter, but it seems logical. This is a good group of folks. I appreciate your help. :)
  9. Moose
    Thank you, ar38070. I also think I could test it with a multimeter, black prong of the multimeter on the chassis, red prong of the multimeter on one of the leads. If I get a trickle of juice, I have found the positive lead. If not, I have found the negative lead . . . just a thought. I did search for the boot, for writing +/-on the battery, and for obvious signs that one of the cables led to the chassis. It wasn't clear to me, but I will have another check. On my old 928, this was a similar get-to-know-your-car sort of thing. Ultimately, someone was kind enough to just state that the negative lead was one or the other.
  10. Moose
    When facing the front of a 2001 Boxster, the ground/negative strap is on what side of the battery? I've searched the archives unsuccessfully and the perspective of the battery box is unclear to me in PET parts katalog illustration 902-55. My aim is to correctly jump start the Boxster because it has been sitting idle for two months. Please advise. Many thanks in advance. :lightbulb: David Cmelik 01 Box 5sp "seal gray metallic"
  11. Moose
    Thank you for responding to my post. I appreciate it greatly. :cheers:
  12. Moose
    From Moogle's thoughtful introduction, I realize I may have violated some netiquette here by not formally introducing myself to the Boxster folks as well. I am from Iowa. I have already enjoyed many of your fine posts and I look forward to learning much more from all of you. Loren and Toolpants, I have already surmised that you are, in fact, Boxster GODS. ;) I miss my 928 (traded) but I trust greater familiarity with Boxster will only make my love for it grow. Best wishes for the holiday season. I am going to make the polyrib belt, an oil filter and oil change, as well as plug change my winter/spring project. :cheers: David Cmelik 01 5sp "seal gray metallic"
  13. Moose
    On my BMW three, I have single piston calipers. They are hollowed and the hollow end is open to the elements (faces the rear of the pad). Three squeal culprits reared their heads: 1. sympathetic vibration between the piston and the rear of the pad. Solution: synthetic brake caliper grease between the pad and the piston. 2. Too liberal with the brake caliper grease-- rocks and grit got suspended in the grease and sandwiched between the piston and the rear of the pad. Solution: clean off the goo and re-seat the pad. 3. Loose caliper bolts (scary)-- first sign of looseness was brake squeal with progressively worse squealling to give me (the knothead) the idea that anti-seize on the caliper bolts was probably the wrong idea. Solution: medium grade loctite and an impact wrench to torque the caliper bolts. The squeal is back, but I know it is not hurting anything but my pride and my ears. I had the same problem on my 928 in the rear but, oddly, the blue caliper grease and a new set of rotors and pads when needed resolved the issue. I suspect, even though the Boxster calipers are four piston on my standard box apply the pressure more evenly than the single pot calipers on my 323, that the sympathetic squeal can also result on our cars. Hope this helps-- it's experience on a different car but seems like it would apply here too . . .
  14. Moose
    I read the how-to on spark plug replacement for my Boxster. I trust the 996 replacement is essentially the same. Two things. First, why no anti seize on the plugs? I always used anti-seize on my 928 aluminum heads. What gives? Also, I see that the serpentine belt must be changed from inside the passenger compartment. Any way to get at the plugs from in there? Also, I think I will use plastic tarps to protect the inside of the car when changing the serp belt. David Cmelik 01 Boxster 5sp seal gray metallic :cheers:
  15. Moose
    What is your experience, Messagebus? :drive:
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