judgejon

wow. Impressive. you have much courage for taking that all apart. glad the part was identified. I enjoy "mysterious Porsche mysteries" and this could have been one of them. question: will all of that somehow get put back together into a recognizable shape? courage. congrats.

all taken care of today. cleaned out throttle butterfly, ext. it looked good, but changed out MAF just because. Car seems to run strong. Loren was right on the money on this one.

actually that little wire at the front of the right side door hinge is plastic and can tear off pretty easily. I found mine in the door jam and wondered what it was. solution is to make an emergency hook out of a coat hanger, bending so you can reach and hook the gas lock stem. pulling back should open the flap. you can keep the wire in the door pocket. I wouldn't want to do this on a regular basis. use the search engine, there's a posting, with pictures, about how to change out the gas lock mechanism. I think Loren might have posted it some time ago. in the old 911's the trick was to carry a loop of strong fish line in the glove compartment. If the gas flap wire broke or jammed up you could open the outside flap by running the fish line over the locking hook and just pull it back. Flap would pop right up. That old flap had a cool orange sticker on the inside that said "achtung!" as a warning your gas flap was up. The flap was on the left side, in front of the driver. Couldn't miss it.

the search engine here will be your best source. this issue can be caused by mismatched tires? Have you just changed tires? Are you using different tires on front/rear? All tires should be of same manufacture and, if Porsche rated, should be of same rating, like N3, etc. This would cause the system to engage on corners and turns. But you say the performance of the car was not affected..... Alternator can be affected if the PSM does kick in too often. Alternator can overload, and if so then the car will simply stop running and then refuse to restart. Then it's new, or rebuilt, alternator time. If its the tires, you could turn off the PSM system, and live with the yellow light telling you its off. If it's not a tire issue, follow Loren's advice. Good luck.

CEL turned off on its own yesterday. Car running strong as if CEL had never come on and reported symptoms had not occurred. Situation untrustworthy at best. MAF replacement and thorough cleaning scheduled next week. Loren, your reply most appreciated. Mike Renzi in Fort Bragg picked up throttle issues right away. We'll get it all cleaned out. Replacing MAF just because.

I hate posting this. I got the dreaded CEL today. Car barely started. Drove around a little running errands, stopped, drove some more, stopped, and eventually the light turned itself off. Idle was jumping all over the place, but eventually settled down. Car has no power on acceleration. I think it's MAF, which was recently cleaned on a routine LOF service. Could it be the e-gas throttle, foot peddle? I put on the Durametric and here are the codes: P1101 Porsche fault code 594, input variables charge measurement P1502 Porsche fault code 412, DVE fault during spring test P1511 Porsche fault code 543, Throttle adjuster Environment condition not OK P1120 Porsche fault code 117, Throttle Plate P1122 Porsche fault code 431, Throttle potentiometer 2 Does anyone have any ideas? Seeing great Indy tomorrow. Thanks.

This may seem a little trivial, and it probably is, but here is my latest issue: Ordered new Lloyd mats from Pelican. Pelican was great. Mats fit perfectly. Issue is the buckle that is supposed to fit to the seat mounts to hold the mats in place. Buckle is too large to slip through mount as directed, and after pushing through from front side is too short and tight to attach to mat. Anyone else had this problem? I'm using the mats anyway. The mats fit perfectly and I think the buckle is overkill. Remedy might be to cut off the buckle and use velcro to secure to OEM velcro floor button, but I just don't think this is necessary as mats fit so well. That's it.

2003 C4$. Previous '79 911SC. I've used many tire brands over many years. I've always run sticky summer tires as I live in a rainy, wet winter climate with no snow. Always look for the AA traction rating for wet weather driving. By far the best tires I've ever used are the Michelin PS2's, Porsche rated N3. No, Michelin is not paying me for posting this note.

don't do it. do the LN replacement for peace of mind.

sorry to learn about this. I've never had a problem with Sunset, in fact I've nothing but positive experiences. When I order stuff on the phone, package usually arrives in 2 days. I did talk to Jeff about key fobs a few years ago. I think he is now working on the Audi side of the dealership. He gave me good info for reference, even though I did not order any new fobs. More recently both Jesse and Andraya have been great to work with. I've never actually been to the dealership, or had any work done up there, as Beaverton is pretty far from where I live. I would suggest you again let management know of the difficulties again. Both service mgr and general mgr. Good luck in the future with those fobs.

thanks to all for this comprehensive thread. This is indeed my problem, and I'll get it taken care of soon. Important to note that the warning message and oil can image is on the computer screen. There is no red oil pressure failure or yellow cel light. I'm calling the friends up at Sunset on Monday. The search engine is your good friend here. Cheers,

ok, thanks to Richard Hamilton, and all who have looked at this thread. Thanks of course to Loren and the great search engine. He's said many times, "the search engine is your friend." Indeed so. I'm convinced that my problem is the oil pressure sender. Richard, I'll check the part number you posted a while back, and get it taken care of. Cheers,

I'm bringing this thread back to life. I've just had this problem and while it scared the c___ out of me at first, I think I have an idea of what the cause is. During a strong run, the obc display showed a yellow oil can image and the words "failed indicator." The oil pressure gauge showed 0 psi. I flicked off the light, and after a while it came back on. The gauge had seemed to read correctly until the light came back on. I let the car sit a few hours, then went out for a cruise. After a fair distance, the gauge acting correctly, the display again showed the oil can and the words "failed indicator." The cel has not come on. The red oil failure light has not come on. The oil level in the engine is fine. Durametric does not throw a code. My believe is that the problem is in the oil pressure sender. Does this sound reasonable to those folks interested in reading this thread again? I think logrey was right. Any thoughts from others? RFM, is this the sender that's under the intake manifold? I did see your previous post to a similar question. Best new years thoughts and thanks to all. jl

sorry to read about this. I had a similar problem at a gas station far from home. took forever to dribble gas into the tank, one filler pipe full at a time. I station-hopped, which is not as fun as bar-hopping. the problem was at the fuel filler valve that sits on top of the gas tank. Seems a mouse had gotten in there, built a nest, and somehow managed to chew through the valve wires. Labor cost to find the problem was about $750. Looking at your invoice makes me wonder what the actual problem really was. I'm in a 2003 C4S, or C$S as some prefer, so my gas filler configuration may be different from yours. Glad your issue was solved, whatever it might have been. :)

Just noticed another recent thread re IMS replacement. I'm sure there are many who, like me, had the LNE work done for just the peace of mind of knowing it was done. No reimbursement for us, but I still think it was worth it.

Maurice comment sounds right to me. I'm not familiar with this, but from a quick read it appears the 10 year, 130k exclusion was intended. Also, no reimbursements for preventive care expense like the LN replacement. Question could be if you've done the LN work and IMS still blows up would you get reimbursement rights. And if case final in 2003, clearly no reimbursements for 996 owners with cars built 10 years prior to that date, or earlier cars if an earlier cut off date is in the paperwork. Is this really 2013? Is my car already 10 years old? Wow, time flies when you're having fun.

I've posted this information in a few 986 Boxster threads as the issue is a cross-over to the 996, but has been mentioned on the Boxster side of the street more often. I've been having a gas filling problem. Issue, essentially, gas would not flow into the gas tank from the gas pump. Rule: Gas needs to vent when filling into our closed evap system gas tanks. Answer: The fuel vent valve located at the top of the gas tank, found essentially under and in the area of the battery tray on my C4S, was not operative. Conclusion: If you are experiencing a problem getting gas into the gas tank on your 996, carefully research all reasonably related threads on the forum for the 996 Carrera, 986, and 987-1 Boxsters. Check the TSB on the issue, check Loren's post re fuel door actuator repair. Then, if you are having this problem, and need to do work at home or at your regular garage, check the E6 fuse first, and then, .... if the problem remains, first check the fuel tank vent valve located on the top of the fuel tank, reached by taking out your battery and battery tray, and looking around and about the area of the fuel tank vent valve. Check the wires to this fuel tank vent valve. If the wires have been chewed though by a mouse nested at or about this general area, reconnect the wires in a professional way, i.e.: with solder, shrink insulation, etc., and you have solved your problem. Analysis: If your family cats both tragically pass away in over a 3 month period, and you live in a wooded, rural, forested area, and mice can be a problem, be sure to do what you have to do to keep mice out of your garage, or you could likely have to have the rear wiper window washer line on your wife's Lexus suv replaced at a dealership, and, possibly, and horribly/terribly, you could be faced with your fuel tank vent valve wiring being chewed through by a mouse nesting in the tempting and inviting warm and cozy area under your battery tray in your 996. Oh well, it's only money. Gas filling problem solved due to good study and work by indy garage, Mike Renzi in Fort Bragg, CA. Mike caught the problem on the first shot. Seriously, a mouse had chewed through the wires connecting the fuel tank vent valve. Could have been worse, but this was a relatively easy fix. File away under "mysterious Porsche problems" and cheers to all....

my problem was that the fuel tank vent valve was not functioning. I could not get gas into the fuel tank. Turns out a mouse had nested in the little area around the valve and had chewed through the wires. Now fixed. My indy, Mike Renzi in Fort Bragg, CA, checked this spot first and that was that. Cheers, jl

my problem was that the fuel tank vent valve was not functioning. I could not get gas into the fuel tank. Turns out a mouse had nested in the little area around the valve and had chewed through the wires. Now fixed. My indy, Mike Renzi in Fort Bragg, CA, checked this spot first and that was that. Cheers, jl

my problem was that the fuel tank vent valve was not functioning. I could not get gas into the fuel tank. Turns out a mouse had nested in the little area around the valve and had chewed through the wires. Now fixed. My indy, Mike Renzi in Fort Bragg, CA, checked this spot first and that was that. Cheers, jl

check the idler pulleys on the timing belt. high pitched whine there led me to change out a pulley. whine gone.... good luck

recent great experience with Andraya at Sunset. She was right on top things, very personable and knowledgeable, and great on the phone and through email. Kudos here!

not yet, car goes into shop 1/31. I'll be sure to post up the results. I guess your problem was the valve on top of the tank...?

I'm just checking in on my post after a year myself and still haven't fixed the issue. I've been getting by for the past year by a little trick that at least speeds the filling up: there is a little switch to the right of the filler tube that gets pressed when you put on & tighten the gas cap. The button must vent the tank when the gas cap is on, and by pressing the button when you fill up it seems to allow enough pressure to escape to allow the tank to fill up (still slowly though).I press the button/switch using my key while I fill up the tank. It will only allow the gas to enter the tank at the lowest pump speed, but it at least fills up the tank in 10 minutes instead of taking over an hour.I've literally tried everything I can to figure this out, and I believe that I've narrowed the problem down to being somewhere between the tank and the evaporation canister, and there is a valve between the tank and the evap canister. Seems like I might just have the same problem.Any idea how your shop diagnosed that the valve wasn't working? I believe that this little switch, which is activated when the gas cap is screwed down, only tells the computer that the gas cap is in place and tight and allows the car to start and run smoothly without throwing the cel light.

yep, Maurice I think that's it. Durametric and time for a reset.