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judgejon

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Everything posted by judgejon

  1. sent you a PM, but it didn't go through. sending it again.... thanks, jl
  2. thanks for the timely reply. Assume your using Windows 7, any problems there? Our daughter and family are east of Memphis, and we get there and to Nashville on a regular basis. Hope to see you out on the road! Cheers,
  3. greetings from a new MacBookAir user. I had to use my Durametric to clear an air bag code on last Sat. I had left the car running with a/c going to cool down the inside before taking off, and without the seat belt connected the air bag light came on. Yep, its happened before. I use my Durametric with a Sony PC. No problems. I now have a small MacBookAir and want to take it on road trips with Durametric software installed. I'm told I'll need emulation software and then I can download to my Mac, get the latest Durametric, and use a newer version interface. I think I downloaded an update a few years ago into my PC. the original interface works great with it. Question: Mac users, what did you have to do to get Durametric to run on your Mac? I always carry the Durametric stuff in the car, but not the PC as its really my wifes laptop. so now I have the Mac for myself and want to take it with me when I'm on a road trip. Any tips on getting it set up would be appreciated. jl
  4. Me too. Had this happen with both seats Would be good to know the dyi fixit steps.
  5. Don't do it. Get a good muffler system, cats and all. Or check out the twin turbo system on Boochook's car on this forum and over on 6speed. Awesome. But probably hard on the engine after awhile. And as an aside, I'm honestly still enjoying the relative quiet of my C4S after years of running the 911SC with a Bursch and a "test tube." The car was so loud my wife could hear me coming up the street before she could see me. Did like the big sound though. Guess it s____ to get old.
  6. I agree with everyone. Just came back from a long drive over the coast mountains and back in the rain. This is why people like me enjoy the C4S. Ran fairly hard over very familiar curves and had that familiar tire smell when back in the garage. And some clicking as the metals started cooling down. Normal stuff I'd say. Worst oil smells I had were on my old 'SC. the oil cooler(s) leaked onto the right side heat exchanger. sometimes I'd clean it, but not regularly. After a good run there was always that familiar smell of oil from the right rear side. This was fairly common on the SC's. It got to the point where I kinda liked it. People would come up to me sometimes and ask if something was burning under the car. I generally reply it was from the asphalt I'd melted driving over it. Still1, take her out right now and celebrate NYE before everyone else is on the road, .... and enjoy. Cheers, jl
  7. great. 997-613-109-02 is the latest number. $18.38 from our friends up at Sunset in Oregon. Cheers, jl
  8. sorry to be such a pest... is there a link to clutch switch replacement? Lots on the brake pedal switch, but nothing I could find on the clutch pedal switch. Happy New Year over there in Roseville. Sun shining today on the coast, but its cold and damp at night. jl
  9. Thanks, Loren. I kept searching and did find many good threads on this issue. And I realized I had posted the wrong question. (Must be the meds....) The switch I want to keep on hand is the clutch pedal switch that controls the starter..... Sorry for the mistake. jl
  10. thinking ahead about preventative maintenance and needed parts to keep on hand "just in case.....". need part number for brake pedal switch for 2003 C4S, and DIY info if available. I did several searches, and know I've seen this on the forum many times, but nothing came up. Thanks, jl
  11. There are a few threads on this issue, check the search engine. My memory is that the non-smoking plug does not fit in the lighter socket. good luck
  12. just now seeing this thread. I had a bleeder screw break off.... plugged it with a 5mm bolt. held up fine under pressure. no leaks of brake fluid. how did you resolve this problem?
  13. right, lots of stuff on this. you can take the CD23 radio out, send it to Becker, and they will put a jack in the back of the radio. Shipping cost and about a 100 or so I believe. check out the numerous posts with lots of pictures about this possibility. One of my favorites concerned how to put your ipod connector into the back of the storage shelf above the console. another way, much cheaper, is to get an fm transmitter that plugs into the lighter and holds your ipod and sends a signal to a vacant fm frequency. works ok for audio books... Belkin makes a pretty good one. Of course the problem is then figuring how to plug other stuff, like your V1, and GPS, and phone into the lighter at the same time. oh well....
  14. this is the ripcord auto activation holder that links to a solenoid hooked up to a speed sensor on the spoiler. Spoiler activates at 73 or so, turns on sensor which in turn activates the rear canopy release if it senses a hard braking above 145.
  15. when you're finished with this project, consider putting a classic Porsche emblem above the VW or Vanagon emblem on the rear end. If my memory is correct, I think Paul Newman had "911S" badge on the back end of his racing VW bug, with a 2.0 from a 914S inside I believe. Or maybe you could have an emblem made up like "Vanamera." Great work so far. Very cool...
  16. It's possible that the weight differences in the wheels could be affecting the psm/abs systems. Can you put the same wheels back on all around and see if that solves the problem. good luck
  17. I've used a body shop adhesive in a big spray can I got at a Napa store. Not sure it will work on foam, body shops use it for trim pieces. good luck
  18. Keep up the revs, no lugging, red line 10/40. I also make it a point to take it easy until the temp gauge reads 180.
  19. glad to have just had the LN retro IMS and clutch work completed. another tip would be to use the right oil (no restarting of any past oil wars intended), and, importantly, I think, keep rpm's down until the thermostat is open and the engine reaches running temp. after that, keep the revs up just as you would on the air cooled engines. No lugging on the engine, please. I agree that oil circulation is likely crucial to IMS issues.
  20. $3700 total. My trusted inde had the car in his shop for a week. I'm hoping that the moral of the story is "a stich in time saves nine." j
  21. We all live with the possibility of IMS failure. Many more stories are told here of cars that had issues than of cars that haven't. It seems that the general consensus is that there is a possibility that your 996 engine will self-destruct with an IMS blow-out at some unknown, unlikely, unsuspecting, and certainly most inconvenient time. Or, it won't. After much thought, and even a little loss of sleep, I had the retrofit IMS work on my C4S. IMS, RMS, clutch kit, pilot bearing, water pump, thermostat. I must admit that I'm one of those who firmly believed that an IMS failure would never happen to me. Ignorance, they say, is bliss. And I will admit to a sense of relief now that the work has been done. The cost of a prophylactic generally seems to be money well spent. Considering the possible consequences. Others have said this. I'm a believer now.
  22. no reason to believe that 996 engine will not go beyond 100k. Porsche has always had some engine issues over the years. the 911sc had a problem with sealed timing chain tensioners, and most owners updated to the carrera hydraulic tensioners for peace of mind. I did, and sold my sc w/325k on it. Well, ok, had to do major engine work at 160k. I've read that if you retrofit the ims you can expect good reliability from your 996. I hope so, as I just did the retrofit on my car. Will my C4S go to 325k? Will I? Hope we both do....
  23. Sounds like the immobilizer system. Runs rough due to numerous restarts maybe? Go for a ride, warm it up, ... "tach it up, wind it up, blow it out ...gto.". Good luck
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