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Everything posted by judgejon

  1. another thought... I had to have window regulator replaced in drivers door as window was not lowering when door opened and was hitting the molding when closing. A bit of a pain.. Regulator assembly replaced and now window drops a little bit as it should, but makes kind of a thud sound when going up as door is closed. Might need an adjustment, but I'm for sure not taking door apart to do that. Maybe your sound is something like that? Kind of a thud from top of window area when door is closed and window goes back into fully closed position? Hope you figure it out. This kind of stuff drives me crazy too. Cheers,
  2. replace MAF, don't bother to attempt to clean. Just a thought....
  3. my key only unlocks doors. there is a separate button for front compartment. 2003 C4$ are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism? It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped. This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed. I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet. Possible. Good luck.
  4. throttle body, butterfly, but mostly MAF are what this seems like to me. See Lorens post above on this thread. Good luck.
  5. could these be part of the optional mechanism for release of the speed-brake parachute in hard braking from over 125mph?
  6. Principle 1: Understand the question before looking for the answer. Principle 2: Start at the top and work down. Were these valves/switchs already replaced earlier in the process? If not, ...
  7. what was the cause of the metal particles found in the oil? Cheers,
  8. Hi, Leo. Welcome to the forum. I was in San Diego in late 60's and early 70's. I remember it all too well. So, your question is really a classic "no brainer." Jeff is absolutely right. Please do not reuse your old bearing. Mine is actually sitting proudly on a bench out in the garage, along with an internal oil pump, and 2 timing chain tensioners from my 911sc. These are all very pretty and interesting to look at. Seriously, strongly consider going with an LNE retrofit bearing or putting in the LNE Solution. I will be facing this question in about 10k miles. Not to replace, but to replace with which of the two. I'll probably go with the Solution. This is all somewhat problematic, because there is simply no known way to predict when or if an IMS will fail. This issue resulted in a successful class-action lawsuit against Porsche, and lots of money got paid to people who purchased a 996 only to have the engine blow-up. Literally. Others, like myself, never had a problem, but for peace of mind changed over to the LNE retrofit "just because." I still feel it was money well spent, and still enjoy winding it up every now and then. For your own peace of mind, and because you have the ability to do the work yourself, and because you already have the engine apart, you should put in the update. Lots of info on the forum about this issue. Good luck. Cheers,
  9. wir brauchen ein video deiner abenteuer. und von deiner freundin auch. the switch is in the fuse panel, and comes through the fuse panel cover. I'll try to attach a photo of cover and fuse panel.
  10. welcome to the forum. glad this was an easy fix for you. sometimes....well, sometimes for somethings there is an easy answer. Cheers, ps: the switch actually comes through the fuse box cover, unless it was optioned to one of the blanks up on the horseshoe around the radio/ac.
  11. I bet your right about the sensor being on top of the gas tank. Good luck with all this. With the racing fuel cap and a big tank you will soon be running full out at Thunderhill.
  12. Thanks. I will be taking your good advice. I'm aware of the 6/75k thoughts on the retrofit bearing. I drive a 2003 C4$. I had the retrofit installed in 2011 at about 40k miles on the car. Mileage now about 60k. My plan is to change to the Solution at around 70k miles. Does this fit with the various situations you've seen in the shop? Cheers, jl
  13. Or, if you do as provenance, keep your repair record from the shop that did the work. This is probably ok if the shop is licensed by your state, like CA through the BAR. And as a related digression, Jeff, I have about 25k the retrofit on my 2003 C4$. I'll be getting another put in after about 10k+ miles. Is it still your thought to go with the solution instead of another retro? I've thought otherwise, but am coming around to the solution as, well, ..the solution. I did the carerra tensioner hydrologic update on my 911sc, and then never thought about tensioners again. Same with the solution?
  14. I recall that you take out the battery and remove the battery tray, and that the valve is right on top of the fuel tank. I had to do this due to a mouse nest and nibbled wire in this exact location. Great inde shop started top down when I was having your gas issue. There's a thread on the forum about this. He had to reconnect a chewed through wire and voila problem solved. Must tell you the wire was cheap, but the time spent on the actually job did not come cheap. Good luck...
  15. Makes sense. Glad you found it, and hopefully not too pricey a fix. Cheers.
  16. were the tires broken in properly? how many miles on the car? how long have you had it? history of front end issues? could be a defective tire, or front end suspension issues. control arms? has the car been tracked? does the issue occur on a good straight paved road? are tires properly balanced? check tire play on a long straight good smooth roadway. sometimes a bouncing effect can happen if the tires are not properly balanced, and this might not be apparent at 50mph but would be noticeable at 65. good luck.
  17. Still possible small cracks are doing you in. What happens after you wash car, or hose it off? Is car outside in rain, or garaged? What you described sure seems like classic coil pac issue. Good luck.
  18. Thanks for this information. Thumbs up! I've actually done the lubrication of the front to rear bearing. It's not an easy access, but with some bending, more difficult as I get older, you can get to both seats from the back. both have to be fully extended upward to do this. I'm assuming that the height adjustment mechanism is on the same side of both seats. Porsche has done that with other stuff for years. Does this sound right to you? Also, I think there will likely be more room under the passenger seat. Did you unbolt both seats from the floorboards to tilt them back? And I'm guessing you also found some sort of a prop that fit to hold the seats on a tilt. Am I close? Cheers...
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