Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

judgejon

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    867
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by judgejon

  1. Thanks. I will be taking your good advice. I'm aware of the 6/75k thoughts on the retrofit bearing. I drive a 2003 C4$. I had the retrofit installed in 2011 at about 40k miles on the car. Mileage now about 60k. My plan is to change to the Solution at around 70k miles. Does this fit with the various situations you've seen in the shop? Cheers, jl
  2. Or, if you do as provenance, keep your repair record from the shop that did the work. This is probably ok if the shop is licensed by your state, like CA through the BAR. And as a related digression, Jeff, I have about 25k the retrofit on my 2003 C4$. I'll be getting another put in after about 10k+ miles. Is it still your thought to go with the solution instead of another retro? I've thought otherwise, but am coming around to the solution as, well, ..the solution. I did the carerra tensioner hydrologic update on my 911sc, and then never thought about tensioners again. Same with the solution?
  3. I recall that you take out the battery and remove the battery tray, and that the valve is right on top of the fuel tank. I had to do this due to a mouse nest and nibbled wire in this exact location. Great inde shop started top down when I was having your gas issue. There's a thread on the forum about this. He had to reconnect a chewed through wire and voila problem solved. Must tell you the wire was cheap, but the time spent on the actually job did not come cheap. Good luck...
  4. Makes sense. Glad you found it, and hopefully not too pricey a fix. Cheers.
  5. were the tires broken in properly? how many miles on the car? how long have you had it? history of front end issues? could be a defective tire, or front end suspension issues. control arms? has the car been tracked? does the issue occur on a good straight paved road? are tires properly balanced? check tire play on a long straight good smooth roadway. sometimes a bouncing effect can happen if the tires are not properly balanced, and this might not be apparent at 50mph but would be noticeable at 65. good luck.
  6. Still possible small cracks are doing you in. What happens after you wash car, or hose it off? Is car outside in rain, or garaged? What you described sure seems like classic coil pac issue. Good luck.
  7. Thanks for this information. Thumbs up! I've actually done the lubrication of the front to rear bearing. It's not an easy access, but with some bending, more difficult as I get older, you can get to both seats from the back. both have to be fully extended upward to do this. I'm assuming that the height adjustment mechanism is on the same side of both seats. Porsche has done that with other stuff for years. Does this sound right to you? Also, I think there will likely be more room under the passenger seat. Did you unbolt both seats from the floorboards to tilt them back? And I'm guessing you also found some sort of a prop that fit to hold the seats on a tilt. Am I close? Cheers...
  8. Hope you have solved this mystery. Curious to know the answer.
  9. I know you've looked at the posts and checked your hoses, etc., but take a look at the wires on the top of the gas tank that go to a gas tank vacuum switch. Sure sounds like a switch is not opening to release pressure in the gas tank. Yes, I was the "mouse nest" guy that learned about this little switch the hard way. Others have mentioned that 996 cars do tend to fill very slowly, esp as the tank gets full. So a bit of gas overflow is not unexpected. Your issue as described is more than the usual situation. Good luck. Post up when you find the answer.
  10. Yes, luck has a lot to do with it. The fuel system is a bit bizarre, but you, and the forum, have figured it out. I would not have a clue. 3 related comments: the gas tank will not fill as quickly as with other cars. common problem is the valve that opens when the pump nozzle is inserted. If the valve does not open, check the wiring on top of the gas tank for rodent intrusion. Yes, I had a mouse chew through the wires. PITA to fix. I had a fire in my 911SC when a pebble caused the front A/C condenser fan to overheat. Explosion avoided because gas tank was full, not enough oxygen to cause explosion. Was your car actually shipped, literally, to Dubai? Good luck, ... and, cheers.
  11. It's way more expensive, as expected, but I would likely go for the Porsche part. I have memories of replacing the turn signal switch in my older Porsche. Same issue, and in same price range. Having seen it come out of the older car, I might be tempted to try it DIY, but in reality would take it to a reputable shop. Good call, Loren. Good call, Joe.
  12. Here's a possibility, though slim. Could overflow gas have leaked out of the drain basin and/or tube that drains the gas, and collected somewhere in the body of the car instead of draining out to the ground? Maybe there's a place that still smells even thought the spilled gas would be long dry by now? could there be any gas-soaked insulation in there somewhere?Re the dealer issue, is there such a thing as a permeable fuel tank in any car? pm on the way
  13. Found the answer in a post from Maurice (1schoir) dated Oct 10, 13, in a thread titled Window drop passenger side. As Loren has always said, "the search engine is your friend." Question: Am I correct that to get the door panel off the battery must be disconnected to avoid an airbag issue? Maurice, if your still willing, a DIY would be great. My good inde would likely be able to help me with this. I'd like to avoid a visit to the closest Stealership which is about 160 miles away in Mill Valley, CA. Cheers,
  14. gas smell is not normal. maybe for a little while if you have some overflow when filling the gas tank. but that disappears after a short time. if you only notice the odor when the tank is over 1/2 full I'd wonder if there's a minute leak somewhere on the upper seams of the tank. Or maybe the fuel filler line clamps are loose? good luck.
  15. Friends, I posted this to the 986 Boxster forum, but realized I should also post to the 996 side of life. My drivers window is now only dropping a fraction of an inch. I think the bicycle brake adjuster fix will solve the problem. I found the pics of this once, but can't seem to locate them again. I'm reactivating this thread to ask if either of you, or others, might have the link or thread with the pictures of that great fix idea. thanks in advance. jl
  16. Friends, My drivers window is now only dropping a fraction of an inch. I think the bicycle brake adjuster fix will solve the problem. I found the pics of this once, but can't seem to locate them again. I'm reactivating this thread to ask if either of you, or others, might have the link or thread with the pictures of that great fix idea. Thanks in advance.
  17. 1st gear synchro issue? as an aside, older, air cooled Porsche cars did not have synchro for first gear. never needed 1st when racing was the philosophy. same for ignition key being on side of steering wheel opposite of shifter. one hand for key, other for shifter, saves a second or two when starting engine for racing from standing or parked positions. good luck with this.
  18. Good. You will have piece of mind. i did my IMS retrofit at 35k, and wii do it again at approx 70k. Only real consideration is whether to install the pressure-fed "solution." Costs more but likely worth it. Good opinions on forum about this choice. Best to do clutch and RMS at same. But for sure get the IMS done. Cheers,
  19. Replaced the battery on my everyday key. Cheap, easy fix. Not so lucky when my spouse lost the second key. Dealer replacement and programming estimate about $425.... Good luck...
  20. agreed with all the above. If the IMS and RMS have not been done, worth checking to verify, then you need to do that with the new clutch stuff. Saves $$$ in the long run. might be other maintenance stuff to consider as well for peace of mind. water pump and coolant change come to mind. Car really looks great. Not sure about your other questions. At least the rear "seats" have seat belts. good luck with the car. not really meant for baby stuff in the back, but I hope you find a carseat that fits. yours will be best car in parking lot at the kids store for sure.
  21. I think the basic question posed here has been asked before. The car involved is a Porsche. These cars are expensive to maintain, but tend to age well if the maintenance is kept up. Don't hesitate to change out the water pump as noted. If in doubt, your always better off doing the work earlier rather than later. Keep in mind that the expenses will rapidly rise if serious repair is ultimately needed. It's not a bad idea to change the battery at about 15k as well. And for sure check the pulleys. Check the idler pulley off the alternator. If there are any noticeable whining sounds, change out the pulley. The ultimate Porsche philosophy can be summed in the old phrase, "don't be penny wise and pound foolish." "A stitch in time" will save nine. Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.