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Highlander

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Everything posted by Highlander

  1. Highlander
    If these pressures are set cold, then they are a little high. I'd reccomend 32f, 36r. Unfortunately, the pressures you are running at are not the cause of your problem. Graeme
  2. Highlander
    On the original Boxster from '97 to (I think '99 or maybe it was '98) there was an issue with the additional stress placed on the front suspension by 18" wheels and Porsche strongly recommended again them. From at least 2000, 18's were available as factory options. so there is no problem running them on an '01. Factory 18's on non-550 Anniversary cars are: 7.5Jx18 ET50 front, 9Jx18 ET52 rear The 550 Anniversary Edition Boxster has special wheels (and factory spacers to make them fit): 8Jx18 ET 50 front, 10Jx18 ET47 rear I'm running 10" rears with an ET50 offset and I need a 2mm spacer to stop a minor rub on the parking brake cable. Graeme
  3. Highlander
    A month? A whole month? Lock it, leave it and don't worry about it. You will need to use the key to unlock the door when you go to get back in, but other than that, the battery will hold it's charge for a month, if the tires flatspot, they will be back to normal after 2 or 3 miles and everything will be just fine! Seriously. Button it up like you do every night and it will be just fine. Graeme
  4. Highlander
    I'm a little confused. Tires don't feather by themselves and in my experience, one tpye of tire is no more or less inclined to exibit this wear pattern. You state you fixed a feathering problem by switching tire manufacturers. I'm afraid that doesn't make sense to me. If, when you changed to the Bridgestones, you also had the car aligned properly, then what fixed the problem was the alignment, not the new tires. Feathering is caused by excessive wear on the outside of the tire. Typically, the culprit is either extremely aggressive driving (like at a racetrack), or an improper alignment - too much toe-in. Since you just had an alignment, what specs is your car set to right now? Graeme
  5. Highlander
    I wouldn't worry too much about overall tire diameter. In fact, at the track and especially at an autocross, the lower effective gearing you get with slightly smaller tire diameters is a good thing. Personally, my track setup is currently 274/40-17 rear and 255/40-17 front. I run with PSM on for the first session each day until my brain gets a chance to warm up. Everything feels like it is working to normal operating parameters even with the significantly larger diameters. Graeme
  6. Highlander
    It is stamped on the rotor hat. If you take a wheel off, you will be able to see it. For the front it is right around 1" (25.4mm), but I don't recall the exact nunber. Anyhoo, once you get the wheel off, you should be able to find it easily. Graeme
  7. Highlander
    The 615's are not anywhere close to being an "R" rated tire. With 2 drivers at an autocross, they easily overheat - not quite as easily as the older Azenis 215, but still way more easily than a Victoracer. They also simply do not have the grip of even a Yokohama A032R (and that's saying something). As street tires go, they have exceptional grip and do seem to work way better in wet conditions that a Bridgestone S03 or BFGoodrich TA. However they are still street tires. Graeme
  8. Highlander
    Good Ax street tires are the Azenis, Kumho Ecsta MX and I have heard some people like the Hankook Ventus R-S2 Z212. I autocross my M3 in the SCCA STU class on a set of Azinis 615 and they are a great tire. Running a 225/45-17 is a distinct performance improvement with no noticable degradation in ride quality - at least in my experience. "N" ratings... Porsche has a commercial and marketing agreement with some tire companies. In exchange for running some additional tests on their tires, Porsche "recommends" (through the "N" rating) those tires for the manufacturer. The rabid and blind following of the "N" rating is more a testiment to the Porsche marketing machine than anything else. Of course, the above is all IMNSHO. ;) Graeme
  9. Highlander
    Nice writeup that is linked to from Porsche Pete's Boxster Board Message Museum: http://www.xenonmods.com/boxster/caliper/ There are various high temp paints you can use. The engine paint in the above instructions is one. Tweeks has a selection too: http://www.tweeks.com/shop?store=8&keywords=caliper Don't worry too much about matching the factory colour. That changes over time and with use. My calipers are more a burgundy colour than red! Final result looks pretty good! Good Luck, Graeme
  10. Highlander
    I don't know what the problem is, but here is the image.
  11. Highlander
    Thanks for the update. Did you only get the clunk on acceleration or did you get it if you let off th egas quickly in the lower gears? Graeme
  12. Highlander
    As Loren stated, most common problem is the rear swaybar. The endlinks have a tendancy to come a little loose. You will not be able to tell just by looking, or even wiggling it with your hands. You need to just get in there and tighten them up. For pictures and torque values, check out my suspension replacement instructions here: http://gwl.rmsolo.org/hacks/suspension/index.html#Rear The torque on the droplink to swaybar bolt is 34ftlbs. Good Luck, Graeme
  13. Highlander
    Why do you think the springs are original? Can you see a Porsche part # on them? Where are you located? The non-US M030 suspension lowers the car. If you can see a part # or manufacturer anywhere on the springs, post it her. It would be a great help. Graeme
  14. Highlander
    Arctic Silver is by far the fastest color. Ask anyone knowledgeable on the subject :D :D :D Congratulations and welcome, sweet ride. Graeme http://gwl.rmsolo.org
  15. Highlander
    Fantastic! Congratulations. I'm still waiting for a student to show up at a DE with a PASM equipped car so I can go for a ride :) Graeme
  16. Highlander
    I'm running US M030 with EVO springs (manufactured by Neuspeed. <EVO Suspension parts>) and really, really like it. The springs lowered my car 1.25" all around. I can't say the handling has improved significantly, but it certainly has not been degraded. There is no "porpoising" due to insufficient rebound damping in the stock shocks and the ride is only a little stiffer and not at all jarring. Here are some pics of my lowered car with 8.5" and 10" Fikse FM10's (click on pic for larger view) Graeme
  17. Highlander
    I'm running Toyo Proxes T1-S. I like the tire. It has decent grip and so far have been reasonably quiet. one thing that differentiates them from Kumho tires is that they are light. Kumho's are a very heavy tire. They also appear to have quite a stiff sidewall. I ran a DE with them and ran 40psi just like I did with Victoracers. Looking at the tire rollover, I was running too high a tire pressure. If 40psi is too high, these tires have quite a stiff sidewall. This is also supported by the tight feel these tires give. As all who have seen my posts here will know, I'm not a fan of Pirelli tires. Soft sidewalls, only mediocre grip and crappy tire wear. not to mention noisy when getting towards the end of their life and not inexpensive to boot. My favorite tire du jour is the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. The sidewall is stiff enough to give a nice crisp feel, but is not so stiff to give a bad ride. They are also quiet and sticky even in when cold. Their wet grip is absolutely phenomenal. Of course the downsides to the PS2 are cost and longevity. OTOH, as a friend of mine likes to say "fast, cheap, right. Pick two!" Graeme
  18. Highlander
    Your rear tires are pretty shot. To be honest, the P-Zero Rosso is a pretty mediocre tire to start with and by the time they get down that close to the wear bars, even on dry roads they are way past their best. Having said all that, the reason you went off the road is because of driver error. Did you go into the corner too fast and lift off the throttle? That will induce a spin in a heartbeat. Did you go into the corner too fast, feel you were going off the outside of the corner and turn-in more or worse jerk the wheel? Notice the common theme. You entered the corner too fast. You should not lose faith in the car, but your ability to drive the car - sorry to state such a blunt truth! Traction control will do nothing to stop a spin. It's not like PSM (Porsche Stability Management) that monitors steering input, individual wheel speed and vehicle yaw and will detect a spin and attempt to correct it. Traction Control simply monitors the difference in speed between the front an rear wheels and attempts to reduce rear wheel speed if it detects too large a difference. As Dale mentioned, once you get your car fixed, find an organisation that runs high performance driving events at a local racetrack and get signed up. Not only will you have a great time, but you will learn the limits of your car in a safe controlled environment. Graeme
  19. Highlander
    I got the kit from Becker to allow me to play my MP3 player through the CDR220 unit. Easily got the radio out and the new connector wired up. Now it's time to put the radio back in but I can't get the removal keys out of the radio! I think I can see what is holding them in, but I don't want to go levering around in there. Am I missing something obvious to get these things out? TIA, Graeme
  20. Highlander
    While some extol the virtues of the Redline Cocktail, I have a B&M shifter in my car and when I "upgraded" to the Redline oil, I didn't notice any difference. It still is pretty tight when cold - cold= 50F or less. There is nothing wrong with the Redline fluid, I just don't know if it's any better than the factory stuff. Graeme
  21. Highlander
    Have you replaced the air filter with a K&N or other oiled filter? This is exactly the same symptom my car had when my MAF was dirty. Started as rough idle when cold and eventually ended up where the car would not run at all. If the filer is over oiled, oil droplets can accumulate on the MAF and cause incorrect readings. I carefully cleaned mine with electrical cleaner and have not had any trouble since. Just another data point for you to consider. Graeme
  22. Highlander
    618 might be "Nokia 2110 Telephone Prep"
  23. Highlander
    Thanks for keeping us updated Chris. That's great news. Make sure you thank the guys at the dealership. PCNA may be picking up the bill, but if the dealership had not taken the effort to get the local PCNA rep involved, it would be a different situation. The easy route is for the dealer to say "out of waranty". It takes extra effort to get PCNA involved. Graeme
  24. Highlander
    The units in the console are interchangeable. Look at a 996 or 986 with PCM. It is a double DIN unit. The climate control is moved around to make it fit. Good Luck, Graeme
  25. Highlander
    Don't know you can black anodize only part of a wheel. Most folks who do something with one piece wheels like stock boxster wheels powdercoat part of it. Ask around the local car and motorcycle groups to get recommendations for powercoating shops. Good Luck - and post pics if you get it done :) Graeme
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