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Ross1

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Everything posted by Ross1

  1. Ross1
    Sorry the belt tightening comment won't help! The wife's Infiniti had the same problem with a squealing belt. The dealer said that it was due to a "cheap" belt being installed instead of OEM. Belt dressing only fixed it for a day. Tightening the belt fixed the problem for that car. The belt dressing I used was similar to electrical contact cleaner. It won't hurt anything but might make your engine a little messy.
  2. Ross1
    Did you try tightening the belt? It might be squealing because it's slipping.
  3. Ross1
    Buy a truck! Where are you going to attach the hitch? To the exhaust pipe!
  4. Ross1
    This topic has been discussed quite a bit in the forums. Do a search. Some solutions have been, changing the tranny fluid, replacing the front motor mount, or replacing the synchros in the tranny. It's not your clutch!
  5. Ross1
    There is a high likelihood that the car has had the doors spot painted. Instead of doing the entire door, they just feathered it out so they wouldn't have to mask or remove trim. The rough feeling is probably overspray. Try using rubbing compound on it to see if you can clean it up.
  6. Ross1
    Why bother? A touchless car wash isn't going to remove 6 months worth of grime anyway! :rolleyes:
  7. Ross1
    Thanks Loren and ericinboca! I built myself a test resistor for the airbag and tried it with no change. I went through and checked everything again and found that I had an intermittent connection on the clockspring. After testing it about 5 times, it finally showed an open circuit. What a pain in the butt. I rigged up a test wire to go around the clockspring to verify the problem and the airbag light stayed off. I guess I'll order a new one and all will be good. Thanks again. Ross
  8. Ross1
    I've been dealing with this airbag light problem for months. Durametric reports fault error 21 ignition circuit driver. This error indicates connection problems with the steering wheel airbag. I've taken apart my steering wheel several times trying to figure out the problem. I have verified that my clockspring is still good by checking the continuity of the wiring on both sides of the unit. I have done searches on the website that mostly deal with seatbelt problems and the airbag light. I have never gotten any error codes dealing with the seatbelts. Is there something that I need to check past the clockspring wiring? Is there a way to check the airbag to make sure that it's not the source of the problem? God, I love my Porsche!!!
  9. Ross1
    http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/
  10. Ross1
    Check your balljoints. If they are the culprit, you can inject grease or gear lube with a syringe into the boot and the squeek will go away!
  11. Ross1
    You have mildew inside your system. Turn on your A/C and spray Lysol disinfectant into the intake.
  12. Ross1
    If you decide you need one, you can usually get a universal guide from your local auto parts store. It's just a wooden dowl with different sizes for about $20.
  13. Ross1
    High stress on the clutch, like hard shifting or "dumping the clutch" could disintegrate the clutch plate. The ceramic material can break off. This would cause the clutch plate to slip against the pressure plates.
  14. Ross1
    Ditto! Including the throw out bearing.
  15. Ross1
    Sorry! Time for a new clutch!
  16. Ross1
    Hmmm! Strange response from a sports car owner. It must matter to you somewhat or else you would be driving a Geo Metro and not reading these posts!
  17. Ross1
    2009 350Z - 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds 2001 Boxster S - 0 to 60 in 5.6 seconds Definitely a drivers race. I would bet that the numbers for a roll-on acceleration test for 60+ puts the boxster ahead!
  18. Ross1
    Call Becker of North America and ask for the auxillary adapter for the CDR 220. (201) 961-1399
  19. Ross1
    Post your tool here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showforum=91
  20. Ross1
    Oh, but you won't!!! Just sell your used tools on Ebay or even here.
  21. Ross1
    I would guess that one of those wires is the amplifier turn on switch. It probably needs to be connected to the Amp-on connector on your new unit.
  22. Ross1
    I had the same problem. It was the ball joints on the lower control arm. I took a large syringe filled with gear lube and injected it into each rubber boot covering the ball joints. Problem fixed!
  23. Ross1
    If the left door panel isn't working either, I'd check your balance on the radio. Otherwise, you may have a channel out on the amplifier located in the trunk. Since the car is new to you, you also might want to check the obvious to see if there is an actual speaker with wires connected to it.
  24. Ross1
    Finding a new mechanic would be a good first start!
  25. Ross1
    Questions: How is the Dynamat performing? Can you notice a difference in road noise? Are you using the stock wiring for your door speakers, or did you figure out a clean way to run high end cabling? I am also curious to know if you will have any electrical issues with running both of those amps? For instance, a possibility of too much draw on the alternator and battery. Let us know! I have a couple of big amps in storage that I would love to put in my car, but I've wondered if she could handle it.
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