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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. I got my clutch redone for $800 at an indy shop here in Houston. I'd shop around if I were you.
  2. Unless Porsche has to meet some kind of mileage or emissions standards, I don't think they're going to worry much about fuel economy. They're already one of the most fuel-efficient performance cars out there, and they know that their customer base isn't really focused on mileage issues. If they are slapped with some fuel economy mandates, now that they own VW, I would guess that they'd initiate some sort of merger, so that the high-mpg VW economy cars would allow them to keep making high-performance Porsches. I would very much like a car maker to come out with a very economical, high-mpg vehicle that's actually classy and well constructed. In the US, our only options to get better than 30mpg are things like the Ford Focus, Chevy Cobalt, Honda Civic, and Toyota Corrola. Although I would love to get at least 30mpg on my daily commute, none of those cars are exactly tempting me.
  3. Don't worry too much about engine failure. You've got to remember, the reason people post here is because they're looking for help, so the site membership and postings are skewed towards those with car problems. Even so, I've noticed there's several members with Boxters sporting over 100k miles that are still going strong. All you can do is stay on top of your regular maintenance and treat your car right.
  4. Situations like this that end up costing people $1500 really irritate me. Why would Porsche design instrument cluster lighting with a limited life that couldn't be easily changed? In my 99, it just has small lightbulbs to backlight the LCD displays. I think a new bulb was $1.50. I believe the new units have LED backlighting, which should have an incredibly long life with low energy draw, but isn't apparently living up to its reputation. The ridiculous thing is, those LEDs cost about 10 cents a piece. Yet, they're not "serviceable," because neither the average guy on the street nor a car mechanic has the knowledge or skills to pull out the board and solder in new lights. Porsche makes $1500 off you selling you a remanufactured unit. Then they take your unit, replace maybe $2 in parts, resolder a few connections, turn around and make another $1500. That's nothing but bad engineering and bad customer service.
  5. I don't know if proximity is the real factor or if it just comes from not using correctly shielded cables. Supposedly with speaker wire you don't have to use shielded cable because it's a high-power signal -- obviously this isn't true because the aux-in cables in my car sure pick up a ton of alternator whine. I would say spent the extra money to use all shielded cable and don't splice any connections because by splicing the wires together, you've just opened up the shielding. Instead, make all connections using shielded plugs. There are also ground loop isolators that you can run inline which will filter out the engine/alternator noise.
  6. low speed There's certain speeds/rpms where engines and transmissions seem matched up better for shifting. One of my friends claims that if you know where those points are, you don't even need to clutch. I've never seen him do it, and he's quite the talker, but I think there is something to it. Try avoiding shifting to 2nd until 20mph/3000rpm and see if that doesn't help things out. You might still need new synchros, but it might help you put that rebuild off for a while.
  7. Enlighten us midwest people, if you pass the exam what is the issue? Is it illegal to modify a vehicle in Cali even if it passes smog? They're VERY stringent about "tampering" with smog equipment -- no matter how cleanly or professionally it was done. I've heard some real horror stories over in the Mustang forums about guys who couldn't get their cars registered because they bought them out of state and didn't have a special California sticker even though the systems were supposedly legal in all 50 states.
  8. Out of curiosity, does it happen only at very slow speeds (under 15 mph) or at any speed?
  9. I don't know if this is true for Porsche alternators, but most new alternators for my other cars will put out up to 14.5 volts with 13.8 being the bare minimum that's acceptable for good charging. Is your belt tight enough? If it's slipping, that could explain why you get higher voltage turning when there might be a stretch on the chassis/engine compartment. Also, I've had a starter solenoid cause a drain before. Might be something else to check.
  10. If it was me, I'd pull the oil drain plug to see if the oil looks like chocolate milk. If you drain it into a clean container, and the oil is clean, you can always pour it back in.
  11. Just an update. I cleaned it all up again and put a wrench on that bolt. It took about another quarter turn without much effort. I've driven the car several times since then and have yet to see anymore oil. I don't know why I was too timid just to make sure it was wrenched down in the first place, but I'm still so unfamiliar with some of the systems in this car that I'm scared to inadvertently break anything. Thanks for your help.
  12. How are your battery terminals? If they're corroded or not quite tight enough, sometimes you'll still have power to the car, but intermittently not enough to turn it over. I know, it's never something that simple, but you might make sure they're clean and tight.
  13. The CD player on my Becker CDR-220 quit working, so I picked a used one up for $100. The used one worked great, but the detachable face had a couple wonkey buttons. The face on my broken unit worked perfectly, but the lamination was coming off on the buttons. I decided to take the two faces apart and put the pretty buttons into the good detachable face. The process is pretty simple. All you need are a couple tiny flathead screwdrivers for prying the various clips apart. While exploring the process I went past the point of just removing the buttons and also disassembled the LCD, so if part of your LCD screen isn't lighting up, you may be able to clean the zebra connector and put it back together, saving yourself the cost of a new face. Begin by lightly prying the two side clips apart. With this entire process, be sure and use some finesse. Nothing should take too much pressure. Pry one side, then the other. Once the sides are loose, gently pry open the three tabbed clips along the top of the radio face. This is best achieved by sliding the screwdriver in between the face and the backing. I tried depressing the tab with a screwdriver and pushing it from the back, but that resulted in broken clips. If you pry the crack between the face and back, the clips just pop open. Once you have the side and top clips open, the two halves of the faceplate simply unhinge from the bottom. When you seperate them you'll see the back of the circuit board mounted to the front of the assembly. To remove this, just gently pry around the edges everywhere you see a black dot. The black dots are the posts upon which the board is mounted. Don't unhook the metal retaining brackets unless you need to remove the LCD or service something on the front of the board. If you remove them, when you reassemble the unit, you'll need to rehook the bottom clips first very, very tightly, then push the top of the retaining bracket up and bend the top clips (one of which is indicated by the arrow) down. The pressure needs to be on the bottom side of the metal LCD retaining bracket to ensure that the zebra connector has good contact. Otherwise when you reassemble the face, there's a good chance that only random portions of your LCD will light up. Now that you have the circuit board removed from the face plate, you can access all the buttons. They're simply held in place by plastic brackets with rubber strips that allow the buttons to travel up and down to contact the board. Gently pry out the retainers, and the buttons will slide right out for replacement. The plastic brackets on the backs of the buttons only allow them to go in one direction, so you don't need to worry about getting a put in upside down, but it is good to remember which button goes in which slot. If you need to service or replace the LCD or the backlighting LEDs, here's a photo of what the board looks like with the LCD removed. While I had the units open, I cleaned all the connection points with contact cleaner. Like I mentioned before, when replacing the LCD, make sure you connect the bottom of the retaining cage first with it pushed in all the way. Then push the top side up and fold down the remaining three tabs. It all just snaps back together. Be gentle and make sure everything is seated correctly. In the face I took apart with the wonky buttons, I found that the rubber behind the buttons had just gotten pulled off center a bit. When I put it back together, I made sure everything was nice and in place, now it works perfectly as well -- although it has all the ugly delaminated buttons in it. Now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to pull apart the Becker unit with the broken CD player and see if I can't fix that. If I do, I'll post photos.
  14. How to service the buttons & LCD in a Becker CDR-220 The CD player on my Becker CDR-220 quit working, so I picked a used one up for $100. The used one worked great, but the detachable face had a couple wonkey buttons. The face on my broken unit worked perfectly, but the lamination was coming off on the buttons. I decided to take the two faces apart and put the pretty buttons into the good detachable face. The process is pretty simple. All you need are a couple tiny flathead screwdrivers for prying the various clips apart. While exploring the proc Author JeTexas Category Carrera (996) - Accessories Submitted 07/05/2008 01:50 PM
  15. I think he meant this one: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry58986
  16. On the upside of things, if the coolant is all over the ground, at least you know it's not leaking into your oil!
  17. My advice is pour in some more coolant and see where it goes. If the car is a 996 there is a hose that runs from the tank to the bottom driver's side of the motor that is somewhat prone to bursting as it's so close to the headers.
  18. Check out this site http://www.lsrpca.com/Calendar/calendar.htm. I've run before at GGP in my Honda S2000. Pretty large parking lot - the last course was nice... if its not crazy hot / raining / the baby is not screaming (aka wife is happy), Im going to try and make it. We used to X at the old airport Riverside Annex outside of College Station when I was in the Texas A&M Sports Car Club. Tons of pavement out there, but I haven't kept up with any of that stuff.
  19. Is the autocross here in Houston? If so, where? And I have zero understanding of the AWD system.
  20. I haven't installed a stereo since I was 19, so take this with a grain of salt, but I think most amplifiers now have the crossovers built in and then a specific bass out. It's entirely up to you as to whether or not you want to run one big amp like the stock system or seperate amps. I think most "audiophiles" usually run at least one amp for their full-range speakers and one for their sub, but honestly, I don't think you'll hear a difference as long as your one amp is carrying enough wattage to adequately power everything.
  21. Do you notice any change in the brake fluid level like you may have a small leak somewhere, so as your level gets lower and lower, the pedal travels further and further? If you sit with your foot on the brake, does it stay solid or do you feel it stop but then keep moving slowly towards the floor?
  22. Try this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry58986 It looks like the wheels have to slip for an extended amount of time before it hooks up any real power to them. And you could always try a burn out and see which wheels leave marks on the pavement ...
  23. You could try something like this ... Back in my high school days I had to safety pin my convertible window up in my 87 Mustang until I could afford to replace it. It worked, but it wasn't a good seal by any means. Don't know what to suggest.
  24. My 996 is my daily driver, and it never sees the track, so I don't need super ceramic high-performance pads. Anything up to OE standards is good.
  25. Were they pumps with the vapor return hoses over the spouts? I have a terrible time keeping those sealed on my 99 C2. I can't let the hose hang. I've got to keep pressure on the nozzle the entire time to keep it pumping. Otherwise the vapor seal gets broken and the pump shuts off. We have them all over here in Houston, but lots of smaller towns don't require them yet.
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