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insite

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Everything posted by insite

  1. insite
    mine stick better than the paint. i've had them on (no clear coat) for about a year and a half; no issues. they're well made. some paint chips, though....
  2. insite
    after having done a bunch of stuff to my car, i'm of the opinion that you won't really know what you need / want to do to it until you REALLY learn to drive it. spend your money on some driver education events, some sticky tires, and lots of track time. the car as-is is far better than you are; i didn't really come to appreciate exactly HOW good until i'd driven it on a track multiple times. that having been said, my absolue favorite mods have been the M030 suspension option and wider wheels w/ sticky tires. it handles like a dream.
  3. insite
    Hmmm... not sure how I missed that one. That writeup makes the ROW M030 sound like a no brainer, the only downside being the cost. Seems like the suspension upgrade would be a good item to add to the Xmas wish list :) Many thanks for pointing this one out the cost really isn't that bad if you don't do the dampers. it winds up being around $400 or so for the springs, sways and bushings. after having driven a 'stock' M030 car compared with my mix / match M030 car (see link posted above), i personally prefer my current set-up. i used the base boxster sway in the rear and the 'S' sway up front (i think). once it's done, you'll need to play w/ tire pressures & camber alignment to get it perfect, but the upgrade is really unbelievable. it's how the car SHOULD have been from the dealer.
  4. insite
    i have seen these. i'd planned on buying them, but lost the link. i THOUGHT it was brey-krause, but i was wrong. at any rate, they do exist. i'm one of those 'all torso' guys; 6'1" with a 32" inseam (midget legs). if anyone finds the link to the lowering seat rails, please post it. thanks!
  5. insite
    i'm sticking with oil separator; that's my guess.
  6. insite
    nah; if you could gain that much power from cheap bolt-ons in a Porsche, the factory would be screwing you. everything is tuned pretty well from the get-go. it's possible, but really you'd need cams to get there. you'd trade a lot of mid-range torque to in the process, too. others on here have mentioned DE events; they will make you feel a lot better about the capability of your car. in learning to drive it well on a track, you will come to appreciate the superior handling charictaristics of the box. when i first got mine, i was coming off of a gen III RX-7; i wanted more power (i only have a 2.5L). i've since tweaked the suspension a bit, but don't really crave the power as much (it would be nice). on a recent trip to talladega gran prix, i had the opportunity to pass two C5 corvettes. outrunning a 150HP gap made me realize that horsepower means nothing without a great chassis or a capable driver.
  7. insite
    true; since he had the switch installed and it worked fine for awhile, though, i'm guessing the switch unit just backed away from the tumbler/lock.
  8. insite
    the ignition switch interfaces with multiple systems; some of them are controlled when the switch is turned. others are activated when the key is fully inserted into the ignition. there is a small button in the ignition switch that is pressed when the key is inserted. likely what has happened is that the people who replaced the switch didn't fully tighten the fastening screws. this allows the switch assembly to slide backward away from the key; this prevents the little button from being pressed. to confirm this is the case: 1. when the key is in the ignition, the car is off, and the driver's door is open, does the warning ding (telling you the key's in the ignition) come on? 2. when the car is off and the key is in the ACC position, can you turn on the radio? if neither of these things happen, the switch needs to be slid forward into its correct position and the screws need to be tightened properly. the people who installed the switch should cover this, as it's their mistake.
  9. insite
    it should get the job done. just use a little spray here and there until your revs jump.
  10. insite
    nah. generally by the time the boot goes, the diaphagm inside the oil separator is probably shot, too. plus, the boot is the hardest part of the replacement process to install, so you might as well just replace the whole thing while you're at it. sunset imports has them for around $85. this all assumes, of course, that the oil separator is indeed the problem. try the propane trick. my guess is that your RPM's will jump when you wave it around the oil separator.
  11. insite
    it is a purge valve code. it's probably not related to the MAF replacement. i'm not sure with the Box, but on my G35 the car will throw a similar code if the gas cap is even loose, so it's possible the gas cap could be the problem.
  12. insite
    Dumb it down a bit for me....where or what is bank 2? your MAF measures the mass of air flowing past it. Loren is saying that the mass of air flowing past your MAF is lower than it should be. two basic things can be happening. first, something (dirty air filter) could be severely hampering flow into the motor. second, your motor is sucking some of its air from somewhere other than the air filter (a leak somewhere past the MAF). the latter is more likely. given the hissing sound you describe, it's possible that you have a hose or gasket that's allowing air to slip past it, creating the hiss. bank 2, FYI, is the bank containing cylinders 4, 5 and 6. this is on the driver's side of the car. to find a leak, open your engine compartment. i use a propane torch (hand held, unlit of course). wave it around the engine compartment until the RPM's go up. if i had to guess, even though it's not on bank 2, i'd go with the oil separator bellows. see pic below.
  13. insite
    check your polyrib belt. if the belt is okay, while you have the cover off, see if you can locate the sound. the water pump can sometimes make noise like this if it's on its way out.
  14. insite
    does it go up with RPM's, or with vehicle speed?
  15. insite
    i bought mine off ebay. quality is great. installation is a real bear. getting the old one off is cake. getting the new one on is quite a trick. i have a LOT of experience as a mechanic. my first go at this took me nine hours. if i had to do it again, i could probably do it in 6. 3 hours is likely impossible unless you do them every single day. if you're not very adept with tools, i recommend against trying this yourself. we have a guy i work with who got started; he wound up having to pay someone to come to his house and finish it. if you're good with tools, give it a go. if you're an amateur, i'd take it to a shop.
  16. insite
    good god! never seen one that bad, chris!
  17. insite
    hard to say. personally, unless it sounds really bad, i'd just leave it alone. since it only seems to happen the first time you roll the window up or down, the glass probably just binds slightly in the felt guide and the sound it the glass breaking loose. i don't think it's a big deal (especialy with your low mileage).
  18. insite
    you will probably be able to see the frayed part of the cable, buy maybe not. if you can see it, it will be at one of the areas where the cable enters its protective sleeve. good luck!
  19. insite
    you are very confusing indeed! don't worry about bushings or holes. what happens is that the cable for the regulator frays and binds in its protective sleeve. when the motor tries to roll the window down 1/2", it basically just unwinds some slack (from the defective cable) and the glass doesn't move. this is a very common problem. your motor assembly is fine.
  20. insite
    just post the numbers and we'll go from there.
  21. insite
    they are separate; not sure how you're looking at the pic. see attached image.
  22. insite
    buy a different car! seriously, it's extremely expensive to add power to these cars; they're already highly tuned. search the forums to see what others have done; many have asked this question before.
  23. insite
    part # 2 is the motor (which you do not need). part # 1 is the regulator. the regulator is usually $150 to $200 depending on where you buy it. you can get a used one from german auto dismantlers for around $85. there is a green plastic piece on your old regulator that is kind of near the left hand #3 in the link you sent. you will need to be sure to move it to the new regulator (if it's not already attached) when it arrives. it sets the window drop height to the boxster rather than 996 setting.
  24. insite
    odd; the MIL should have come on right away with the MAF disconnected. anyway, use the OBD II scanner to post your long term fuel trims, idle trims, O2 voltages and any codes it throws. strange that you say the 'stumble' doesn't occur in 1st gear. describe the 'stumble' again as best you can.
  25. insite
    ok, let's clear up the terms. the 'black box' that's attached to the window motor is the transmission assembly for the regulator. the 'window regulator' as it would be sold to you includes the transmission, cables, tracks and glass clamps. it's a sealed assembly, so you don't have to hook up the cables to the transmission or tracks. the only part of the entire system that is separate from the 'regulator' is the motor. you will remove your motor from the old regulator and install it on the new regulator (it's only 3 bolts). you will then install it all back into the car. chris is correct about adjustment from the stock position rarely being necessary. usually, you can just position the new regulator exactly as the old one without need for adjustment BUT... since part of this thread was started by someone having issues with the glass rubbing / folding the window seal on their car, i thought it pertinent to outline the adjustment process.
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