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insite
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Everything posted by insite
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i have to disagree with you, Loren. i think coolant tastes pretty good. retireddoc - it really does sound like coolant, especially since the overflow for the coolant reservoir is behind the right rear wheel. i think it could also be POSSIBLE for the coolant overflow tube to inadvertantly spray an oxygen sensor, causing it to fail. when my coolant overflow reservoir failed, lots of coolant wound up in my trunk. i popped a rubber plug in the trunk to drain out the coolant; it drained right onto an O2 sensor.
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your MAF is fried. these trims indicate that your MAF is setting the fuel mixture quite rich and the O2 sensors are forced to lean out the mixture. the reason the 1130 is thrown is this: your LT1/2 trims are lean because the MAF is sending rich ABOVE IDLE but normal at idle. the ecu compensates with negative trims. when you slow to idle, though, the MAF signal is okay (not rich), so the lean fuel trims cause a short term lean condition that the computer can't compenate for (it's reached the enrichment limit and the car is STILL running lean). basically, your short term trims are near +25% at the instant this occurs. the 0103 code tells us that the MAF is sending a voltage that's higher than the max it's supposed to send. this confirms the fried MAF (although technically it COULD be a short, i promise it is not).
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Strange Brake Issue after Track Day
insite replied to insite's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
The verdict is in: Rotor Glaze. Never experienced to this extent before. Installed new rotors, bedded the pads and they work like a champ. Thanks. -
further expansion: the boxster w/o traction control has 3-channel abs. for traction control, the car would at least require the ability to individually modulate braking between the two back wheels. traction control models have 4-channel abs. since anything is possible, i suppose you COULD install a 4-channel abs modulator and program the ecu to manage it, but this is likely several thousand dollars and a huge pain to accomplish.
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i have separate brake pads on the front that i swap out for track days. the rears are street pads that stay on at the track. my last track day, i cooked my track pads pretty bad. i'm still having problems with the street pads, though. i'll try to explain how it feels as best i can. when the car is cold, the pedal requires a LOT of pressure to get the car to stop. its as if the front pads (Mintex Street, by the way) just won't grab. if i do a FIRM decel from 70 - 20, the car doesn't seem to slow down much at first. then, once they heat up, they stop the car like a champ. after 1 - 2 firm decels, everything seems fine. its as if the brakes just aren't working when they are cold (normal for race pads; not for street). also, they're not pulling to one side or the other; just not grabbing. here's what i've done: new pads all the way around (Mintex Red) new rotors (rear) hone rotors (front, cross-hatch) flush / bleed with power bleeder, ATE fluid pressure test (no leaks) inspect master cylinder (no visible leaks) verify caliper orientation (small piston leads) verify caliper piston function replacing front rotors today just for the heck of it, but i don't think it will make much difference. any ideas?
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fantastic. thanks for the help.
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nope.
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i think there's an actual Boxster aerokit II bumper that looks similar to the GT3, but has a 986 part number (986-505-980-00-g2x). just trying to figure out what else (if anything) i'll need. thanks.
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Someone backed into my car Monday. Going to replace the bumper with an AeroKit II / GT3 style cover. Are there any additional parts i will need (i.e. to mate my radiator inlets with the openings on the bumper)? This is going on a '99 box. Thanks
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thanks!
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Recently, someone tagged my boxster (1999) in a parking lot. since the bumper cover needs to be replaced, i'd like to upgrade it to an AeroKit / GT3 bumper. the shop pulled the following part number: 986 505 980 00 Is this right? I can't verify it in any of my documentation. Thanks.
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also, when porsche increases power on existing motors, they almost invariably raise the rev limit. then they tune the car to make decent torque at the new higher rpm's. since horsepower is a factor of torque and RPM, you can make more HP just by tuning to higher revs. also, VarioRam and VarioCam plus are tuned to reduce the impact of higher-rev tuning on lower rev drivability.
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Gear Cable Greasing - How to do it
insite replied to danieldominique2000's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
When you intalled the short shift kit, did you remove the green piece of plastic underneath the shift cables (just in front of the shifter)? -
i'd go with tool pants's advice. using factory bolts would be preferable, as you won't have to remove the cones from your old bolts (which is a pain). they're about the same price as the H&R's i mentioned earlier in this post.
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i got mine from GPR Tuning. they are flanged, meaning you will have to remove the spacer cones from your existing bolts and put them on the new ones. if you have 7mm spacers, you will need 52mm bolts.
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on the back of the cluster, you will see two (one on each side) black slides that release the circuit boards from the instrument cluster (they slide outward HARD). slide them out, air-dust the pins / connectors, and use a small screwdriver to slide them back into place (all the way). this may fix the problem.
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pulled the calipers to paint. removed crossover tubes and bleeder valves from calipers during the process. didn't bleed the clutch. also, for informational purposes, i have 3 channel ABS (no TC or PSM), so no need to open ABS valves w/ PST2 during bleed.
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took my my calipers off this week and can't seem to get the air out of the system. i have a power bleeder and have run like two gallons of fluid through the system. i also pressurized the system and waited ~1hr to see if anything leaked. nada. everytime, the pedal just goes WAY down and drivability is nill. calipers are on the correct sides of the car, bleeders are facing up, all fastners are spec torqued. no detectible leaks around master cylinder. this is driving me crazy. any ideas? Thanks.
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very interesting. the car should actually run very well with the MAF unplugged with the exception of idle. the default fuel map used by the DME w/o MAF would usually cure any drivability issues (above ~1500 RPM) if the MAF were the culprit. more on this later; i gotta run.
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i'm pretty sure it's your MAF. your readings are good at idle, but the long term fuel trims indicate that your car is running lean at speed (these should both be roughly zero). do you have any hesitations when driving the car (around 5K RPM or so)? you can try unplugging the MAF and going for a drive to see if it runs better at speed. you may have to keep the engine alive at idle w/ the gas pedal, but once you get going it will run okay. the DME defaults to a base fuel map when no MAF signal is detected.
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you are running lean. 'enrichment limit' or 'rich threshold' mean that the car senses a lean condition even though the DME is already at max rich. this means that: 1) your MAF is not sensing enough incoming air and needs to be replaced 2) your MAF is correct and you are sucking in extra air from somewhere else. check your oil fill hose, your throttle / intake manifold clamps and your oil separator bellows, as these are common culprits for vacuum leak. maybe use some propane around the motor while it's running to see if there's a leak (RPM's will jump when propane is inhaled). alternatively, you can spray brake cleaner around to see if the RPM's jump, but i'd stick w/ propane. if none of this is the issue, clean your MAF by soaking in tape head cleaner (or replace it). i doubt if this is your evo. do you have the capability to post the long and short term fuel trims from your OBDII scanner? if so, post them; they will help determine if the rich threshold is breached on long term trim or on short term trim.
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hmm. based on the fact that the light takes 2-3 days to come back on after a reset, i doubt if it's the wiring harness. the only other thing that would make both coils show 'open loop' on the IAV is the 'emergency mode' that the DME uses in the event that it can't 'trust' the IAV's readings. this could indeed be caused by O2 sensor or MAF issues. you have your short term fuel trim graphs above. could you post graphs with your bank 1 / bank 2 short term and LONG term trims? that will help.
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you don't need any other parts. if you remove the carpet in the trunk, you can see most of the reservoir so you can inspect it for cracks. if it is leaking, PTEC is correct in that you will likely see coolant beneath the reservoir. the job is not that hard (simple in concept, tricky in practice); access is the only issue. get yourself a GOOD set of hose clamp pliers or you will curse the gods.
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go back to the guys who read the OBD II codes and get them to write down the long and short term fuel trims (almost any OBD II scanner will show these). Post the values.
