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insite

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Everything posted by insite

  1. i have all of that at my disposal. that's how i got the bearing cartridge out of the control arm. i used hydraulic presses and a vice to attempt repair. the best result was with a vice. the first pic shows how to press the cartridge back into the control arm. the second pic uses a larger die that only contacts the crimp, attempting to keep the sleeve from slipping again.
  2. actually, i don't think it wears. the nylon sleeve is held in place by a metal crimp (see pic). i think the crimp loosens over time and allows the entire nylon sleeve to slide within the control arm. my 'workaround' has centered on re-setting the cartridge and re-crimping the arm. so far, i've fixed one and made one worse. still working on a real solution.
  3. it starts to allow the ball to move up and down in the sleeve.
  4. i replaced some bearings in the pulleys on my engine from a shop that specialise in just bearings if i had all the measurements or the bearing the self i should be able to get them i to have a knocking noise from the suspension i will look at mine and see if i can get the bearing. i also have a random knock which i thought were the wire ties that hold down the roof. my noise comes from the left rear 98 boxster UK Please do! It would mean alot to us all!!!! Usually the rear control arm rattle is worse on hotter days, and makes lost of noise at low speeds over cracks and bumps in the road... hopefully thats what your expierencing and the Shop you take your car to will locate the bearing for the application!!!!!! it's not a normal looking bearing; here's a pic of the cartridge:
  5. insite above said he found a manufactor of the bearing cartridge but i asked that mofo to give us the part number and the company who supplies it but he hasnt replied in nearly a month. never found a source for the part. it's a TRW bearing, but no part numbers on it. i did some experimentation with modifying / repairing the cartridge with mixed results. it will be a lengthy post; i'll get it up this week (lots of pics).
  6. anyone know the TRW part number for the ball joints / boots? i'm sick of replacing entire control arms when the ball joints go; i'd rather just press in new ones.
  7. well, i've found that TRW makes the bearing cartridge. now i just have to source it... it should be possible to press out the old and press in the new.
  8. if it's just a nail and it's not in the sidewall, the structural integrity of the tire is likely not compromised much at all. plugs distort the geometry of the steel belts; a patch will be fine (even at very high speeds).
  9. this pic shows the 275's. the really don't stick out at all; they're flush with the fenders.
  10. i thought of something else. i have a spare (bent) one of these control arms that i've taken apart. i'm going to see if i can fit some shim stock between the nylon and the aluminum housing to close the gap. the nylon bushings have notches in them through which new grease could be injected. then, the boots could be re-installed and all will be well. i'll post pics if i get it to work.
  11. Yes, but you will need to run a wire from the sending unit to the cluster. Do a search I think Tool Pants covered this before. sweet. now i just have to fab a housing that looks nice in my dash.... thanks for the pointer.
  12. while we're on this subject, can a 996 cluster be retrofit into a boxster so we get some REAL oil pressure readings?
  13. this is a known problem. the control arm ends each have a bearing in them; the bearing rides on nylon bushings. the grease runs dry, the nylon wears, and the bearing gets loose. you will notice the sound a LOT more when it's cold out. it IS possible to press out the race / bearing assembly, but i've yet to find a replacement unit. i'm also working on fitting zerk type fittings to these so that i can add grease and hopefully get rid of the clunk without buying new arms. i wish porsche made their suspension parts servicable..... i know you're in the UK, but you may be able to get some replacements from a porsche boneyard near me. i bought one from German Auto Dissmantlers for about $100 US. if i find another solution, i will post it.
  14. my strut top mount bearings are shot. do either of you have a top mount handy? i'm looking for inner / outer diameters of the bearing as well as the bearing thickness. i'm planning to modify the mounts with bearings cast in solid urethane. i just need to know what size bearings to buy and i'd rather not pull a strut just to measure. thanks.
  15. i've got to replace my motor mount. it's a three bolt type. i have access to a great deal on a four bolt type. i can't remember if a four-bolt will fit on a three bolt car or if a three-bolt mount will fit on a four bolt car. does anyone know if i can replace my 3-bolt mount with a 4-bolt mount? thanks.
  16. it's not hard; you just need a spring compressor. as the TRG plates are expensive and increase your ride height, why not just drill out your existing camber slots for the added camber. to increas stiffness of the factory strut top mounts, you can cast-fill them with Flexane. it's a pourable urethane. it will keep the top-mount from deflecting mid-corner.
  17. M030 knocked 8.5 seconds off my lap times at TGPR. i went from a 1:17 to a 1:09.5 (fast enough to pass the C5's).
  18. if they're not in the sidewall, just have it patched.
  19. i've run 265/35's, 275/35's and 285/30's. i prefer the 275 since it's generally got a higher load rating than the 265 and is far cheaper than the 285 since the aspect ratio is still 35 (when you drop to 30 aspect ratio, the price goes way up)
  20. odd; i'm with djomlas. mine is always on, key or no. i wonder if it has to do with model years? at any rate, you could use the acc wire for the radio as a source. it's close to the cig lighter. if you wanted to be cautios with current draw, you could use a relay in line with the radio acc wire to trigger the cig lighter circuit.
  21. i'm looking for the damping rates for the box, box S, and 996 variants (including M030). i've got a line on a set of fairly new 996 front dampers and i want to see if the rates are similar to the 986 M030. on another note, can our dampers be revalved / rebuilt? anyone know a good place to get this done? thanks.
  22. could also be from your a/c system (if it is indeed oil).
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