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por911

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Everything posted by por911

  1. por911
    I would put a high probability that it needs the updated switch/lock cylinder assembly. That was one of the symptoms we were experiencing. regards
  2. por911
    Matra made the one I have. It also is the factory clutch alignment mandrel(Audi tool#3176) for certain Audi/VW models. You might check Samstagsales.com. regards
  3. por911
    For the clutch alignment tool, I like the one in the pic. The plastic ones seemingly always have the alignment off to some degree and make the trans difficult to re-install. regards
  4. por911
    I use the otc set-up, but am exceedingly careful in setting it up(some apps micro-fibre towel in rain gutter of the fender lip or a milled piece of wood). That tool is pretty heavy-duty, and can hold alot more weight then most fenders can, so due caution should be taken. Its especially helpful in doing clutches, motor mounts, etc(helps to keep drivetrain alignment). There is no doubt, the factory tools do fit better for many apps(RMS, ignition switch, etc.) , but some like those have just gone way up with the drop in the US$ and moderate(or acceptable) substitutes can be used. One of their lighter versions would probably work as well.Hope this helps some. regards
  5. por911
    You might look at OTC's version of the tool(#4324 Stinger engine support bar), as an alternative. Just a thought. regards
  6. por911
    Replacing the motor and trans mounts can get rid of alot of vibrations/rattles. I had replaced the motor mount(porsche speak-motor console) at about 42k. Then realizing a few K-miles down the line, the trans mounts should have been replaced as well(collapsed about .5-.75). They were not leaking, but had fallen quite a bit. With a set of rhino ramps and a decent floor jack, you should be able to tackle the task of mount replacem,ent without a hitch. The passenger side trans mount takes a bit of wrestling out, but is feasible to remove. Having said that, afterwards the shifting was vastly improved in every dimension. I had also replaced the gear oil and flushed the clutch hydralic fluid. The mounts really improved that first morning shift from 1st to 2nd. There is less shifting of the driveline under and off of power, more solid and connected. Hope this clarifies some of the issues. regards
  7. por911
    That dealer rep is incorrect. Those hydralic rear trans mounts/wt brackets do go bad. Ours had sagged over 1/2 inch. I can tell you, it does effect the shifting when they are collapsed. These hydralic mounts don't seem to leak like ones on VW/Audi's. With only 3 mounts for the drivetrain system, it is somewhat taxed. regards
  8. por911
    I think you might have some competing issues. When you installed the MAF, was it the newer version? If so, was the ecu flashed with the upgraded software(per the factory tsb)? As far as running the fuel tank dry, usually I've found it picks up a bunch of junk at the base of the tank and cooks the pump(at a minimum and generally more). You might check the fuel pressures(running and rest) to see if they are within factory spec. If you have access to durametric software or a PST2, you might check for dtc's as well as the running specs. regards
  9. por911
    You might remove that tray and check for the crust of dried/ wet coolant coming from the bottom of the pump(see pic). I doubt your t-stat gasket is leaking but anything is possible. You can see from the pics, the pump is relatively simple to access and diagnose from that point. Best of luck with the repair. Regards
  10. por911
    A couple thoughts, or options/alternatives: 1)get a hold of or purchase Durametric software/obd cable and fix it yourself. If you donate to renntech you'll get access to the tsbs which can tell you a world of info. You might ask the dealer what code popped up, or what is being repaired for 1k. 2) There is also a Porsche dealer right across the boarder in Bellingham(Roger Jobs Porsche). Who knows , you might get better pricing there. 3) There are also factory workshop manual sets, which detail repair ops. I don't know if they are still available though. They are not exactly written for the novice though, and can be viewed as a tade cryptic. Regards
  11. por911
    Sorry to hear, sounds like you got a fair bit of service life out of it. Here are some thoughts 1)dealer installed factory re-man, probably in the range of $12-15k 2)an engine from Mr Raby , and flat 6 innovations 3)used 03 engine, there are probably some very low mile examples out there, in the range of $2-6k Good luck with the search and repair of your 986. Regards
  12. por911
    Here are some things that really smoothed ours out when cold, warm-up phase(assuming the car is in a good state of tune): 1)clean throttle body 2)run through a couple bottles of techron concentrate 3)motor & trans mounts 4)fuel injector o-rings(upper and lower) *comment: I found after installation of the new o-rings, quicker starts, much smoother, improved detination quality, overall performance was better. Having said that, the mounts smoothed out the shifting, especially when cold. It also greatly reduced vibrations and some other noises. You might also check your AOS. When ours was going, one of the symptoms was a very rough idle, especially when it was in warm-up phase. Regards
  13. por911
    50k miles was around when our mounts went out(01 base). Replaced both trans(see pic) , motor mounts, and changed the gear oil which made the car shift even better then when it was new. It really improved that first shift from 1st to 2nd, especially in the cold as well as rid the car of a few vibrations/noises which was nice. As a DIY, they were relatively easy. You might also consider flushing out the clutch hydralic fluid. This helped as well. Next on my list will be a 997 shifter housing/assembly. Regards
  14. por911
    Thanks, went quite well. Well worth the $100 or so for the part and the peace of mind that the car won't have starting issues down the road. Regards
  15. por911
    Well, I'm glad to see we're not the only ones with ignition/lock switch assembly flu. Hopefully, the steering wheel does not need to be pulled for this op. Regards
  16. por911
    You might post the mileage and some of the service history(ie shock replacement, etc. ). Having said that, you might check the front strut mounts/bushings. I'd also check the sway bar link and bushings. It worth checking the driveline mounts, we've replaced all of them on our 01 at 50k. They produced alot of vibrations and clunks. Regards
  17. por911
    You might consider having someone look into the cam and cam chain tensioner area of the engine, asap. Sounds like a broken/failed tensioner at a min, and or something is rolling around that cam area(piece of guide, nut, etc). Regards
  18. por911
    You might have higher then normal/or spec internal crank case pressures. I would at a minimum replace the AOS(oil/air seperator) if it has not been done in the last 40k. There is also a positive crank case valve that should be checked. Make sure detination quality is reasonable(ie in a decent state of tune). Its also worth while your in there to clean out the throttle body. With that level of debris on the throttle body housings, it will be fairly dirty inside. Regards
  19. por911
    You might consider using a 30mm crows foot. BMW uses a 32mm type forged and 1/2 dr for the similar application. Stahlwille(German) makes a 30mm CF, part#540-30. Regards
  20. por911
    You might try posting your location, as someone local to you might have the tool to rent or loan out. Its not a bad idea to take some caution with those PTFE type seals. Its easy to damage the sealing lip on them. Regards
  21. por911
    I thought since there did not seem much posted on this, it would be interesting to post some pics to show the differences. Old cap on the right- part# 996-106-447-00 New cap on the left- part# 996-106-447-03(Sunset $13.39, bargain!!) Notice the completely different valve design in the cap. As tight as one could get the old design, it would tend to leak. The tank was dry as a as can be. Hopefully, this might help some out there who might have mystery coolant loss, or leaks created by a faulty coolant cap Regards
  22. por911
    What a bad waterpump looks like. Notice the dried coolant that has been leaking. If your under your 986 and see this, its coming time to think about a waterpump replacement.
  23. por911
    Here's a pic of the new waterpump and trimmed gasket.
  24. por911
    Here's a pic of the t-stat and housing installed. Part #'s for a base 01: 1)996-106-326-50, thermostat housing gasket 2)996-106-125-53, thermostat (regulator) 3)996-106-121-53, thermostat housing (waterpump outlet tube) Torque spec for housing bolts, 7.5ft lbs (just incase people missed it in previous post) Due caution should be taken here. I found alot of left over residue from the previous gasket which took alot of work to remove without marring the gasket mating surface. If you have the old spring type clamps, it might be a good time to upgrade them to the more dependable screw type. The factory ones are made by Norma. I find ABA clamps are quite reliable as well. Take due caution in installing the new t-stat as to keep the arms relatively level when turning them into locking postion to the housing. Porsche makes a special tool for this #9627, but its possible to install it without if your exceedingly mindful. As always, the job is much easier with the proper tools.
  25. por911
    Here's a pic with the old pump removed and the old gasket trimmed. Its a good idea here to clean off everything(excess coolant, gasket surface, etc.). Some find it helpful to scribe an outline on of the new gasket on a piece of card board. As your removing the bolts from the waterpump, place them in the appropriate location on the outline of the pump on the card board. There are 2 bolts in the waterpump hardware that are longer then the others. Its helpful not to mix the locations up.
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