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por911

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Everything posted by por911

  1. por911
    Here's a pic of the pump after installation. One can see, the rear carpet and metal access panel behind the seats needed to be removed. Make sure to have a large drain pan handy, as the 986 holds alot of coolant. You might want to actually put the drain plug back in just to empty the pan a few times. Part #'s for a base 01(2.7): 1)996-106-011-55, waterpump 2)996-106-340-54, waterpump housing gasket 3)996-102-151-66, serp belt(optibelt) Have a decent pair of small metal snips, as the gasket comes with the oil pump housing gasket attached as well. This needs to be trimmed off. This is also true of the old gasket. There is little, if any room to work in there, so patience is helpful here. I also replaced the deflector and tensioner rollers while in there. It should be mentioned that these don't like to be retensioned with a new belt installed after 60k. They usually start making noise not too long afterwards. Note on installing new rollers, that bolt for the upper roller just makes it out with perfect or new driveline mounts. If your 986 mounts have collapsed some, expect issues getting this bolt out. -Torque spec: waterpump , 7ft lbs thermostat housing , 7.5ft lbs I'll post more as the project moves along. The pic shows new waterpump, serp belt, deflector roller, and tensioner roller installed. Regards
  2. por911
    I found the AOS failed on our 01 base around 40k. Symptoms were: -lumpy or rough idle -would not rev up easily -excessive smoke on start-up -lots of coking or blow-by in the crankcase breather hoses Its just a glorified pcv for the crankcase. They are not terribly expensive and cheap insurance towards avoiding oil leaks and other issues. If the car has some miles on it(50k+), you might consider replacing it. Regards
  3. por911
    Here is a shot of the block with the old unit and o-rings removed. Frankly, this should be a standard upgrade for these cars as they run on the warm side. I'm also adding the 3rd center rad as well which pics will be forth coming. Regards
  4. por911
    Here a pic of the new "S"(996) spec heat exchanger installed on an 01 base 2.7 engine. I'll post some other pics later as the job is still in-process. Thought some might like to see the upgrade. Here are the part numbers used: 1)oil cooler(heat exchanger), 996-107-025-57 2)O-ring, 999-707-389-40. qty.2 3)O-ring, 999-707-409-40. qty.2 Torque spec : 7.5 ft-lb Some might find it tough to torque it to spec due to lack of access(intake, etc.), but it's possible. Regards
  5. por911
    The door seals just pull up. There is a bit of adhesive , but the seal can be pushed back down when finished. That plastic housing on the sill(holds switches/pulls) to the driver's side is held in by some allen screws. Remove the plugs to access them. For the passenger side, remove umbrella/rubber liner and torx screws are revealed. You'll notice when all of this is removed there is a "V" etched on the metal sill to center the door sills. You should be able to readily pull all of this off without any damages and have a perfect installation Regards
  6. por911
    Those are factory sheepskins off a 911, no bathmat here. ;) That black gets mighty hot in the summer. What is this gap everybodt talks about? There is no gap on our sills. I did remove/ pull up the door seals and plastic housings for the installation though. Regards
  7. por911
    Looks nice. Installed a pair here as well. Regards
  8. por911
    Samstagsales.com is a great place. I found them very reliable over the years. Alignment tool in pic , also works on Audi. You might consider the flywheel holder tool if your replacing the flyhweel while your in there. Regards
  9. por911
    seafeye, bushings You might check out the bushings in the link. There is a pretty good break down of energy suspension bushings and ones that have a larger base which might provide better support(ie like the #9.5159). Granted, reeming those out to spec, takes some time and a careful eye. I found in some cases, the stops which are tack welded onto the sway bars needed to be removed to fit some of the bushings(depended on application). Regards
  10. por911
    txhokie4life, Unless you know, or can replicate the exact specs of the factory tool, you might just consider renting one. The inner lip on those PTFE seals(ptfe audi rms in pic) is fairly delicate. That inner lip can tear tear quite easily if the installation surface is not prepped propperly or the seal cants on installation.The seals are sensitive enough that Audi sells them installed to the back plate which just needs a gasket change. Not to be an alarmist, but those jobs are no fun to do twice. Regards
  11. por911
    One aspect I've found with ordering up urethane bushings, is mic every aspect(ID,OD, etc.). Lube with a mix of Wurth antiseize and marine grease. This way you'll never here a squeak or noise out of them. Pic shows a bushing I adapted to the rear of a Audi quattro(had to modify sway bar). Some of the bushings are not exact, and might need reeming. Sway bars sizes vary on the 986 due to suspension set-up, so mic(read: Starrett caliper)first. Regards
  12. por911
    You might check with your local PCA chapter. The cost is closer to $500 for version that handles the new style PTFE seal. Regards
  13. por911
    Here's what 000-721-969-90 looks like. You might see if someone local to you has one to loan or rent out. Regards
  14. por911
    We had similar issues with an 01(base), and I replaced the motor and trans mounts(old trans mounts in pic) which solved the issue. Due to years and mileage I decided to change the gearbox oil which also improved it a notch. The car shifts better now, then when it was new. Porsche gear oil used- part# 999-917-546-00 Regards
  15. por911
    Did not go with Vertex ones, but went with the factory units in the pic. They run about $90 and fairly easy to install. They help to cover up a dent/scratches put on the driver sill by the dealer(Read: Ray Catena Porsche) who dropped the seat on it(tried to deny it) when attempting to fix the air bag light issue. Regards
  16. por911
    You might look up Fabspeed cat bypass pipes for your 986. They will eliminate the secondary cats without tripping the CEL, while giving a more deep exhaust note. They usually run about $500. Regards :)
  17. por911
    Thanks. Generally, I change the serp belt every 30k anyway. Since the price differential between using factory stuff and aftermarket is/was so small, just figured it would be better to stick with the oem parts. If the car gets sold, some buyers might prefer it that way. :)
  18. por911
    While under the 986 this winter doing some maintenance(oil change, plugs, trans mounts), I noticed a crusty trail of coolant residue coming from the waterpump. UUUgh, was not expecting that. Well, after 54k , its probably coming due. So hence the parts gathering in the pic(still waiting on coolant arrival). I'll take some more pics of the DIY process as its going on for those interested. Regards :)
  19. por911
    Unfortunately, there is little in the manual , other then a very sketchy r+r of the assembly itself. I've attempted to rebuild/repair both Audi and Porsche units with little success. Ended up just purchasing a new unit and installing it. I did find a couple places(auto atlanta, etc.) selling used units for $200. You might see what some of the dealers(Hennesey, Suncoast, Sunset, etc.) are discounting them for down in the states. Sorry I could not be of more help. :) Regards
  20. por911
    You should have no issues, or fitment problems. I installed a 03 S front cover on the families 01 base with no problems at all. The nice aspect is that it makes it quite easy to upgrade, or install the 3rd rad kit. Regards
  21. por911
    You should not have any issue with just putting the rear of the car up on ramps to drain the oil. I've done it this way on the families 986(and others) for years with no issues what so ever. I would install the factory spec amount , then run it for bit to see how the level settles out over time(hot and cold levels). As a rule of thumb, I always check the oil level after the oil has warmed up a bit and is on a level surface. This has worked for me for years without issue. Good to see another BCer on the board. Gulf Islands here, at least in the summers anyway. :)
  22. por911
    Well I was checking some parts prices over the web: duel mass flywheel- $800 Sachs clutch kit - $500 Nevermind the ancillaries, pilot bearing, RMS or intermediate shaft seal if needed, clutch slave , pivot pin, pivot spring, slave, guide sleeve wt seals. You get the idea. Clutches done on the AWD cars at a decent shop run more towards 2k. I don't think the prices they have given you are bad but the devil is in the details. I'm fairly sure they are not going to replace the flywheel for that $$. If the car has over 60k , or there is any oil exposure to the center section of it, there is a good chance it will need one with the kit. If you've got a weekend you could try a DIY clutch R&R.
  23. por911
    You might look at the factory repair manual set. I believe the majority of the information your looking for is in there. :)
  24. por911
    Pretty much, they have stiffer bumper requirements then the US. You could probably convert the car over after registration. Depending which province your moving to, the regs differ. You might check the www.riv.ca for importation of vehicles and procedures. Alot of people in BC just head to CA, Oregon, or WA and import one up. Prices seem to be low here on the west coast, and dropping. If you do consider converting the bumpers over to the euro type, its worth considering bringing over the parts when you move. They are not the easiest to come by here(US/Canada). Good luck with the move. Regards :)
  25. por911
    My guess is yes, prod. date 08/2006. I believe that is late enough for the last iteration of it. :)
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