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Selby, Just a note re: my experience with the Continental DWS( 245/40ZR17) - I just removed the rears with only 14,000 miles and worn down to the wear indicators. Not mounted on a Porsche but a 97 Mercedes AMG used for commuting to work. Not impressed. I bought them to save money too. There is a 50k warranty on these tires but not applicable to my car perhaps because of the different front and rear which means the tires cannot be rotated. John
I would resist the urge to use any power tool - try some hand work instead. How about a metal disk 1 or 2 inches in diameter with some fine emery paper or similar glued on. Punch or cut a nice clean hole the same diameter as the drain plug. Gently tighten down the drain plug with this "sanding disk" held against the damaged surface. Try to rotate the disk back and forth while maintaining light pressure with the drain plug. This should keep the surface flat and parallel. Maybe you want to bend some tabs on the disk to hold onto. If the damage is more severe you will need a cutting tool rather than an abrasive. There are simple tools in the hardware store for refacing kitchen faucet valve seats - the trick would be to mount it on a mandrel(shaft) which fits nicely in the threaded drain hole, allows rotation, and does not damage the threads. The mandrel's job is to keep the cutting tool parallel to the surface. Good luck. John
jworden replied to cayenneturbo's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)The 04 Cayenne owners manual(from the documents menu above) has a table of allowed weights on page 337. Trailer hitch weight allowed is 617, and max rear axle weight is 3803 in the US. Note that if you put 400 pounds several feet behind the rear axle this will actually load the rear axle with more than the 400 pounds due to the moment about the rear axle which will lift the front of the car. For example if the load center is 3 feet behind the center of the rear axle and the Cayenne wheel base is 10 feet then the load on the rear axle is the 400 pounds plus 3/10 of 400 for a total of 520 pounds. This extra 120 pounds is the lift at the front axle. Better to load the heavy stuff inside and put the light stuff out on the hitch. The empty Cayenne Turbo is listed as 5192-5842 pounds depending on equipment - the empty rear axle load is probably close to 50% of this. The actual empty weight may be listed on your door pillar. Gasoline is 6 pounds per gallon. Don't know if this will help you. John
jworden replied to ahamay's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Without the wheels on the ground and no load(acceleration or deceleration) I would expect the gear train to vibrate seriously, possibly damaging the differential or transmission due to uncontrolled torsional vibration. Tires provide damping to the drive train while on the road. At the very least this could be very noisy.
I will try cleaning the end of the wires where they plug into the coil. Can you replace the wires going to coil? Thanks Mike I'm curious - does anyone know how a misfire is detected by the control system? thanks John
I think it is probably the tire scrubbing because of impossible geometry in tight turns. A limited slip diff (if you have one) will make it worse. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=30639&hl=
I recently purchased a 1997 mercedes with no records - I phoned the local mercedes service dept, gave them the VIN and he read off a bunch of service items. Later I drove over to the dealer and he handed me a complete printout from when the car was new. I already owned the car at this time but I don't believe that the service rep cared. The report included data from several dealers. Don't know if a Porsche dealer would do the same.
If you think about it even a single wide tire cannot scribe an arc without scrubbing because the path followed by the inside of the tire has a smaller radius than the path followed by the outside of the tire. Yet the entire tire rotates at the same speed. Something has to give. The reason the car jumps is because one side will encounter better traction than the other and cause the opposing wheel to slide. This is very noticeable in winter conditions when backing up. Porsche probably doesn't care too much about steering geometry while in reverse!
jworden replied to hunteje's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)My car would not crank over after a 3 day hiatus from commuting so I installed a new battery in my 99 Boxster. I'm building an airplane and will shortly need a battery for it and thought I would get some experience with a lightweight Odyssey PC925MJT. Expensive ~ $175 but small, and no venting. Called "Absorbed Glass Matt" or AGM I bought a plastic cutting board in the kitchen supply department of Target, cut it to size and bolted the battery to the board using counter sunk machine screws from the underside and some bent up aluminum. The stock cables just reached but I might need to protect the positive lead where it is barely touching the metal battery tray. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925mjt.htm NOT a porsche.
jworden replied to willgt-s's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I just replaced my Boxster switch - purchased at Autohaus -my post here - http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=28986
Regarding the frozen stud - the other possible explanation is that corrosion is contributing to the bond between the stud and its hole - the uneven heating with a torch fractures this bond so that even if you wait until all is cool again you may find the stud has loosened.
My first post here - I am very impressed with the quality of information on this site. 99 Boxster with the usual sticking of the ignition key. A few months ago it began to be fussy to remove the key from the cylinder. After researching on this site I ordered two switches from Autohaus. 4A0905849B Ignition Switch $8.78 Last week I really had to struggle to remove the key and noticed that the radio did not go off and the key fob would not open the rear hatch. After work I again struggled to insert the key and was beginning to think I would not get home the usual way. Finally got the key in and started the car - taking extra care not to stall and made it home! That evening I found the DIY for the switch replacement and in ~30 minutes or less was done. I removed the plastic air duct under the dash, found and loosened the two set screws on the cylinder, and slid the old switch off. Success. I dismantled the failed switch and sure enough there was a little piece of plastic which had failed and no longer held the return spring in place - exactly as shown in a photo I found in another renntech post. This summer I have also changed oil, replaced spark plugs (found the existing ones to be loose!) and changed the serpentine belt all at 65,000 miles. I purchased the car a year ago at 55,000 and use it to commute. Here is my spare switch: