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Stefan

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Everything posted by Stefan

  1. Stefan
    Sergio, The engine mount is pretty straightforward to do. I did it in my driveway. Here are some tips: - Porsche recommends that the car be supported by its jacking points (not by its wheels) when removing the cross braces. That means that using a Rhino Ramp is not good. It could cause alignment issues because you're removing structural components that hold the suspension in place. I put my car on four jack stands under the four jacking points. - The upper motor mount bolt is tight to get at. A socket won't fit. I recommend using a flat wrench (offset won't fit either). I believe the size is 15 mm but it should say in the instructions listed above. - Have all of your torque specs available before you start. It will make your life easier. - I strongly recommend using either a floor jack or a transmission/engine jack to jack up the engine. A bottle jack or X jack is not sufficient (or safe IMO). - If a motor mount bolt is stubborn to go on or off, try jacking the engine slightly more or slightly less - You may need a deep socket to remove the lower motor mount bolts --- This is a very satisfying job to do because it seems like a big deal to disconnect the engine but it really is not very hard. It took me less than an hour and a half and I had never done it before. Good luck!
  2. Stefan
    I had this same question on Saturday when I was bleeding the system and I agree with Loren's interpretation. You would never want to work the clutch pedal with the bleeder open as that would introduce air into the system. I read "Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges..." as "Open the clutch bleeder valve. When clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges, close the clutch bleeder valve." I read the (similarly vague) "After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve" as "After bleeding for an additional 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve" --- Now, three days and several hundred miles later, the clutch still works great. (Slightly smoother than pre-bleed)
  3. Stefan
    I connected a volt meter to pin 5 on the MAF while the car was running and the ECU was connected to the MAF. It measures 0.1 volts at idle and 0.2 volts when I hit the throttle (no matter how much throttle I give). I'm not sure what it should be but that doesn't sound right. The OBD-II reader shows 0.0 lb/min (constant, even when on the gas) for the MAF sensor. I tried my OBD-II reader on a 2003 and that reads 0.6 lb/min at idle and it goes up when you step on the gas. That is what I would expect. So my guesses are: (1) Some other wire connecting the ECU to the MAF is faulty. I have verified that pin 4 (the 5v input line) is correct. I don't know what the other pins are. (2) EVO intake causes a strange airflow pattern that doesn't send air past the MAF (3) Air leak somewhere downstream from the MAF (4) EVO intake damaged the MAF Any ideas at this point would be welcome. The MAF signal wire (pin 5) is a voltage, right (not resistance to ground)?
  4. Stefan
    When jump starting make sure the other car is running. And let it run for a while to give your battery some charge. The high impedance between the terminals of a dead battery can cause your car to stall. Once your car is started, leave it connected to the other (running) car for at least 10 minutes. Then leave your car running for at least another 20 minutes. The alternator in your car is a battery charger but it only works when your car is running.
  5. Stefan
    Doesn't this thread belong in the 986 section?
  6. Stefan
    Yes, just spray the "mirror" part (the actual sensor) and any exposed metal. Then let it dry (which is very quick, actually) before putting it back in. The cleaner you use should say something like "leaves no residue" on it. Standard electrical contact cleaner is appropriate.
  7. Stefan
    And rubbing is not necessary. The MAF is very sensitive and the contact cleaner will remove dirt and grease without rubbing.
  8. Stefan
    I am quite confident about experimenting with this. I thought about using a light gauge wire. Ideally I should also check the impedance of the wire running from the MAF plug to the ECU to make sure there isn't a discontinuity. I may even an oscilloscope lying around. I'll have to check. I don't have a lot of experience with oscilloscopes but it should be easy enough to learn. If you have any specific words of advice, I'm all ears.
  9. Stefan
    I'm not quite sure how to get directly at the output signal for the MAF because the wire doesn't have any exposed metal. I tried wiggling the wire and plug while the car was running thinking that the wire might be defective but the ECU didn't pick up a voltage change. I suppose it is possible that the EVO makes the air flow in a strange pattern but then I would expect a lower voltage, not a 0 voltage. What is a DSO?
  10. Stefan
    Ok, I will try that. It's too bad because I really liked the sound of the EVO intake, especially on full throttle. (It's also a non-trivial amount of work to get the stock intake back in)
  11. Stefan
    Ok, fair enough. I don't think I understand though how the EVO can cause that particular fault other than by damaging the MAF. Is this the same error code you saw? Do you think that the MAF might be damaged and that I would have to replace it (again!?!?)
  12. Stefan
    My car is a 1999 Boxster 5-speed with 85k miles. I replaced the air intake with an EVO high flow air intake. About 6-700 miles later my CEL came on. I checked the code and it was P0102 (MAF Sensor voltage low). I removed the MAF and carefully cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner. And I cleared the code. The code came back almost immediately so I ordered and installed a new MAF. The new part is the identical part as the old one (Bosch Part # 0 280 217 007, Porsche Part # 996 606 123 00). The problem went away for several hundred miles then came back. I checked the electrical connections to the MAF and they seem good. I cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner to be sure. I checked the signal voltage on pin 4 and it correctly reads 5V. I used a OBD-II reader and determined that the signal the ECU is seeing from the MAF is constant at 0.0 cu-ft/min or sometimes 0.1 cu-ft/min. It doesn't change when I step on the gas. I checked for air leaks in the intake and couldn't find any. I assume that there is some wiring problem. Please, does someone have a strategy for tracking this problem down?
  13. Stefan
    TP, are you suggesting that the 4-electrode plugs are not recommended for the 2.5L Boxsters? I have been using Bosch Platinum +4 in my 1999 2.5L for 25k miles and I will be changing them in the next 10k miles. Just curious.
  14. Stefan
    Most Porsche dealers have reprogrammed the car for different key heads many times. (Particularly because the 1997-2004 key head design is prone to failure) I suspect that the particular tech who is handling your car is green. I would talk to the service manager and see if you can get a resolution. If not I would call the next closest dealer's service department on the phone and get a sense of whether they know what they're doing. I'm constantly amazed at how different dealers will have such widely different diagnoses. ($1500 versus $100 to solve the same problem in this case)
  15. Stefan
    A key head without a code tag is not necessarily useless. The code can be retrieved from the car that was last programmed to work with the key. But if you bought it on eBay it's unlikely you're going to convince the seller to get the dealer to provide this info.
  16. Stefan
    I have the same problem. I visually checked the MAF connection wires, cleaned the MAF, reset the code and the problem came back almost immediately. I replaced the MAF and the problem came back (after several hundred miles). Which connection(s) were bad? The wires going into the MAF plug or the other end (wherever that is)?
  17. Stefan
    If you have have been burning oil for a while there is a reasonable chance that your plugs have been fouled. I would remove one and check it. I would also definitely check the air filter. You can always take it out, shake it off and put it back in if you don't have a replacement.
  18. Stefan
    Just so you know, you will need a tamper-proof T20 torx screwdriver to remove it. It can be removed in under 5 minutes with just that one tool. I also highly recommend cleaning it and seeing your problem goes away. The part is pretty expensive ($250-300). Mike - you should consider putting your instructions in the Boxster Wiki (http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page)
  19. Stefan
    I've done this a few times now. The way I do it (described in that other thread) involves removing the light bracket last. The "hard" part is separating the clear plastic sleeve and the metal lighter cylinder. That is accomplished by: - holding the clear plastic sleeve while twisting the metal cylinder about 10 degrees (enough so that the clips are no longer in the slots) - pushing the metal cylinder out of the clear plastic cylinder (you have to push pretty hard but not terribly hard)
  20. Stefan
    The connector is under the dash, facing down, near the fuses
  21. Stefan
    I had a similar problem on my Boxster. The problem was twofold: (1) Some corrosion on the connector for the headlight (2) (more importantly) One headlight wasn't completely latched into place even though it looked right and stayed in. I clicked the latch tool slightly farther and the problem went away.
  22. Stefan
    How much did AutoSport charge and what was included in that price? Just curious because I am debating doing it myself versus having someone do it for me (I'm in Boston).
  23. Stefan
    The local dealer replaced my entire top under warranty to fix this very problem. (My car is a 1999 and the car was still under warranty when I complained about the crack)
  24. Stefan
    I did this yesterday and there is an easy way to do it. You don't have to push in the plastic tabs on the trim ring. And you don't have to remove the green light assembley to get it apart. There are plastic tabs on the lighted ring that keep the metal cigarette lighter cylinder from moving in or out. But if you twist the metal cylinder while holding the trim ring, the tabs slide out. The clear plastic sheath holds the cigarette lighter tightly but it is then possible to slide it out. Once it is out, you can get the lighted clear plastic part by angling it slightly while pulling it out. The whole thing should take less than a minute.
  25. Stefan
    Check out this thread over at ppbb: http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...rue#Post1058760
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