spiffyjiff

PS fluid: the small cap covers the blowoff/relief valve. brake bleed: yes, technically bleed inner then outer, but in the whole scheme of things, you're not going to get every last little itty bit of particle/old fluid out so it's not that imperative. mufflers: yes, those bolts are "upside down" much to the annoyance of many DIY'ers. for the first time removal, you have to take off the whole mounting bracket (have to go from behind to unbolt it. then, after you remove the stablizer bar that runs to bumper the cans should be able to come out with a little twisting and rotating. it's like a puzzle. and before re-install, simply reverse those "upside down" bracket bolts so that the bolt comes out the bottom for easier removal next time. sparks: i have not tried them yet (or the mufflers above) but i have researched enough to know that you dont need to take them off to change sparks. yes, it makes it a little easier but not imperative. i have seen DIY's done both ways. temperature dash error: some things seem to clear themselves, others require a durametric (or PIWIS / $ at your local shop). i'd say that if youre sure the temp is working again and all connections are secure BUT the light wont clear, then it's probably not self clearing. good luck.

could be the oil pump(s)...but a cheap and easy first step would be to swap out your pressure sending unit. at least you could rule that out if the problem persisted. i changed mine (due to leaking but it still seemed to read ok), part was <$100 and was an easy DIY.

update: i saw the TB code but that MAF code was also there and i know that little sucker can cause ALL sorts of issues. so, after cleaning the MAF, the MAF harness contacts, the throttle body harness contacts and changing the air filter...it runs fine and dandy, dare i say seemingly smoother than it was. (and i should note that i am a glass-half-empty guy so when I actually think it feels like it's running smoother, it probably is!)

i'm in a bind - i am throwing codes P1511 and P1517, and in between those, ALL of my cylinder misfires plus P0300. my code description cheat sheet is at work and i am at home...any idea what these are? very rough idle (if it holds idle at all) and hesitant in the low RPM's. thanks for any help you can give me tonight...

oh man, you have no idea how happy i am to hear that. i know i know, it's not 100% but it's def peace of mind when someone else confirms a "possibility"! thanks loren!

anyone ever had a leak from the oil pressure sending unit and/or replaced one? there is a good amount of caked on oil crud on my passenger cylinder bank (4-6 i think?) and i can trace it to the top of the bank, forward most. it's def caked on the post leading up to the sending unit but since that post isn't very high, i'm not 100% sure it's the culprit as it could very well be coming from the top of the bank and simply hitting the post as it blows back. so is there any chance it's leaking from the bank top side? i'm HOPING it's just the sending unit/gasket.i have 50k miles, a lot of track days and pressure seems like it's reading fine, btw. i already have the shop manual/DIY so am just looking for thoughts or advice. thanks all!

no, sorry - TPS - throttle position sensor.

i've searched but apparently i'm doing it wrong because i cant even find on the interwebs, much less this forum but anyway... does anyone have an ECU pinout diagram for a 997.1 non-turbo, 6sp? (2006 C2S)

agreed, i'm just lazy and didnt want to take console apart again. :P FYI i'm trying to track down a TPS issue and want to rule out any crimped wires/grounding issues, etc.

negative. e-brake is separate and runs thru a 2nd body pass-thru right behind the shift (and the mystery) cable assembly. i believe the mystery wire runs up to the dash, but not sure since, after entering the cabin, runs beneath the carpet under the console.

i recently replaced my shift cable - 997 424 041 00. in mid-length of the wire assembly is a rubber grommet that holds the assembly together and which fits snug into the body pass-thru. however, there is also a third wire that runs thru that body pass thru and fits into a cut out groove on the side of that grommet (you can see the hole for that 3rd wire in the parts diagram). so, what is that 3rd wire? during the DIY, i seated it properly into the grommet but did not think to chase it's length to see where it came from/where it went to. anyone know? thanks.

thanks loren! i am getting good at replacing DIY's but dont have much experience with cleaning DIY's. can you recommend a good cleaner for each, as well as a brief how-to on how to clean the TB itself? i just dont want to spray anything where i'm not supposed to.

issue: intermittently, acceleration will suddenly become VERY slow no matter what gear i'm in or how fast i'm going. to imagine what's happening, think about being in 6th gear while going 20mph and then stomping the pedal. VERY slow to accelerate, right? well that's what starts happening...in ANY gear...at ANY speed. even if i come to rest and start again, even in 1st gear - same thing. VERY slow. (i.e. it seems it's the "maximum pedal value is limited to 30%" below). the only thing that clears it is turning off/on car. and i should mention that, if the issue does arise on a drive, i think it's after driving normally for awhile, then coming to a full stop, like at a light or something - after starting back up, the problem is all of a sudden there. so i have a durametric and this is the fault: P2126 Throttle valve adjusting unit – potentiometer NOTE When a fault is detected, the system is in stand-by operation mode in pedal sensor, i.e.: ---Maximum pedal value is limited to 30 %. ---Dynamism is limited. Diagnostic conditions ---Supply voltage 10 V ... 16 V ---Engine start Possible fault causes ---Open circuit, short circuit to B+ or short circuit to ground in the sensor line to potentiometer 1 or 2 of the throttle valve adjusting unit ---Throttle valve adjusting unit faulty ---DME control module faulty solutions? i ordered a throttle body and will replace (easily) this week, but arent there also potentiometers in the accel pedal too? there is a guy on rennlist now who replaced both throttle and pedal, yet STILL has the issue. thoughts?

the link has steps and pics for removing the ECU, but the process is the same to remove subW and subW bracket. the 3 bolts for the strut top are near/under those brackets. http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/technical-articles/187-ecu-removal-and-installation-guide-for-996-997-turbo-carrera-s-gt2-and-gt3.html