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wwest

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Everything posted by wwest

  1. wwest
    As was said previously modern day A/C evaporators are highly dense, 10,000 square inches of cooling vane surface area in a fairly small compact size. Think SPONGE! When you shut down the car and having used the A/C there will ALWAYS be a thin film of condensate left on those cooling vanes, possibly as much as a pint to a quart of water. Since the operational temperature of those vanes is in the range of 33 to 35F it might take hours for the plenum temperature to rise enough for that mositure to evaporate. And now that it is evaporating where is it to go? Absent any forced or convection airlfow it will, of course, remain within the evaporator plenum area. Providing an excellent breeding ground for the little tiny microbes that provide the "leavings" you think of as mould and mildew odors. One night alone will not do the job, but if you leave the car open each and every night I can assure you that it will alleviate your odors forever. Well, at least it did for my 92 LS400. But you could always have someone install the EED, Electronic Evaporator Dryer, I referred to.
  2. wwest
    This post, and the two following, were copied from another forum. Read the material at: http://www.airsept.com/eed.html and/or search google for "defog" and "demist" and "denso". In the meantime if you park the car in a garage at night it will help tremendously if you religiously lower the windows slightly or open the sunroof each and every night.
  3. wwest
    Fans should come on independent of A/C operation. Assuming not enough forward speed to provide sufficient cooling airflow the fans should run on low speed as the coolant temperature rises to the first "limit", and then to high speed if the temperature continues to climb. As it certainly will on a hot day with the additional "load" of the A/C. The airflow from the front radiator fans should be out the bottom just in front of the front wheels. If you are feeling reverse flow then it is possible the fans are installed backward, or possibly reversed voltage polarity. From experience I can tell you that if its a hot day and you're using the A/C and the low speed has failed by the time the system reaches the higher temperature and turns on the high speed mode it is a little too late and the car will now run slightly overtemp.
  4. wwest
    When I called PP to order one I was advised not to as it takes way too many hours of work modifying it to make it fit correctly.
  5. wwest
    Just the other day both of these indicators starting coming on intermittently after starting and driving the car a block or so. Could be cleared most of the time via simply restart. No other failure indication. THen I noticed the starter wasn't turning the engine over very fast. Bought a new battery at Altamonte Springs Costco today and now all is well.
  6. wwest
    You might want to drive it a bit until the ECU re-learns the gas pedal "idle" position.
  7. wwest
    DRL bulb, drls are not enabled in the US.
  8. wwest
    Just recharge it, it will be fine. Costco for a new when the time comes.
  9. wwest
    You might want to be a little more careful about adding more loading to the auto/off/dimming dome/map lights. I put in an emitter follower power transister with heatsink so the original power transistor wouldn't possibly overheat and fail. And instead of footwell lighting I used a Ford Explorer overhead dome/map light mounted on the roof just between and behind the front seat headrests. Just behind the sunroof opening. I rewired them so all lights come on, OEM if selected, with the doors open but only the appropriate Ford map light when a front map light is switched on. Now my wife can use the map light at night without it interfering with my forward vision and the Ford map lights come on with the door open giving very good lighting coverage in the footwell.
  10. wwest
    Why not use LEDs?? see the site below: http://www.hobbystage.net/porsche/wwest Two leds inside each side marker, green extinguishes and amber lights with turn blinker.
  11. wwest
    Watching the voltage meter is this manner is a lot like watching the instantaneous MPG indication and trying to determine if the engine is operating propery. If the car starts reliably each and every time you wish then it is highly likely the system is operating as designed. If you really want to get an idea of the consistency of the battery charge level then each evening turn the headlights on in high beam mode, engine off, read the meter, and then track it via this method each day.
  12. wwest
    On the other hand if you happen to mean the cabin air temperature sensor, behind the circular screen on the dash near the US passenger door, it too would indicate an extremely cold cabin temperature if missing/open.
  13. wwest
    Hmmmm..... Missing/open OAT would most typically mean no A/C operation at all. Open OAT would indicate VERY cold, sub-freezing, OAT and very few systems, if any, would run the A/C compressor in that circumstance. Your initial problem sounded somewhat normal to me. Engine water jackets oftentimes overheat a few minutes after engine shutdown. Some manufacturers allow the electric cooling fans to run in this mode but Porsche does not. So when you restart the car within ten minutes it may very well be that the water jacket is overtemp and that will definitely lock out the A/C.
  14. wwest
    Velcro..........
  15. wwest
    HOT air can hold an inordinately higher level of water vapor than can cold air. When you park the car the crankcase is full of HOT, and therefore quite possibly very HUMID air. If the humidity at the time is fairly high then the air in the crankcase doesn't have to cool very much at all before the water vapor begins to condense out of it and onto any nearby surface. Here in the Seattle area the filler tube in my 78 often looks like the crankcase is filled with coffee w/cream.
  16. wwest
    Sounds perfectly normal to me. Expect to add as much as a pint each year due to evaporative effects of a heated fluid.
  17. wwest
    SOP, happens on my 78 Targa too. Airborne water vapor trapped in the crankcase when you shut down condenses as the engine cools and what you see is the "foam" water/oil mixture. No harm as a result insofar as I know.
  18. wwest
    Remember that the ABS pumpmotor supplies pressurized brake fluid for many functions, "virtual" LSD, BA (brake assist), traction control, lateral (yawing) stability, and finally, ABS. ABS pumpmotor is usually about the same size and fractional HP 12 volt DC motor used to run your windshield wipers. Heating is not detected, presumption of overheating is deterministic based on amount of use over time.
  19. wwest
    If you are somehow working the ABS and PSM really hard/continuously, it is entirely possible that the abs pumpmotor is close to overheating and the system is disabling those functions to prevent a permanent failure. Toyota/Lexus disables the AWD/Trac functionality of their systems after about 45 seconds of continuous use, say wheelspinning to get out of a mudhole. rOn T/Ls Restart and drive about 100 yards and the failure indicators extinguish.
  20. wwest
    Lead-acid automotive battery charging systems are designed to charge the battery to a higher level, voltage, during predominantly cold weather vs summertime. The old mechanical regulators had a bimetalic strip to sense ambient temperatures and the electronic regulators do it with a thermistor. Lead-acid batteries can safely hold a heavier charge in lower temperatures that when warm.
  21. wwest
    The Cayenne series seems to be extraordinarily heavy even against vehicles in the same class. Is the entire driveline system so heavy that no amount of balancing can suppress the vibration? Anybody checked to be sure the automatic braking force distribution system isn't in operation even without brake application? It might be worth disconnecting the ABS pumpmotor ciruit (fuse??) to check it out. I can readily envision a programmer goofing up the PSM code in this manner.
  22. wwest
    Better, best, braking, means sacrificing rotor and brake pad surfaces. I'm extremely leary of anyone offering "lifetime" brake pad warranty, or any "period" warranty at all. IMMHO, no surface wear, no friction, NO BRAKING!
  23. wwest
    Yes.....???
  24. wwest
    Eating brake pads... Brake pads are cheap, REALLY cheap, considering the life you save may be your own! I want brake pads that "eat" rotors and vice versa.
  25. wwest
    Drilled or slotted rotors can be a lifesaver driving in the wet here in the absolutely beautifully green pacific MW.
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