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JimB

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Everything posted by JimB

  1. JimB
    In your title you referred to GT3 Cup Car ducts so I'm assuming that is what you are asking about rather than the GT3 street car. I use the cup car cooling ducts on my 996 track car. My front end should be pretty much the same as your TT. They are made up of two pieces per side. One piece captures air that passes through the radiator and directs it towards the rotors. This part snaps easily into place and should work on your car. You might want to increase the size of the slots in your wheel well liner to improve it's effectiveness. The other snaps on a lower control arm and directs air from under the car towards the rotors. It is actually just a larger version of the stock ones. This one will be a real problem on the street. It hangs down very low. I doubt it will last very long. Hope this helps. Jim
  2. JimB
    Dell, As Loren stated, yes it does although both versions just connect one piece of plastic to another so you have a lot of options. A friend put some quick release fasteners on his cup car so he can pop it off before driving in the trailer. I plan to add them over the winter. I used small SS bolts because I don't want mine flying off if it hits the track which it often does. On a street car you should be able to use the factory stuff. Jim
  3. JimB
    More details would be good but my initial response would be that the quote is too high. You should be able to replace the engine with a new/rebuild direct from Porsche for a little over $8K. Any good independent Porsche shop should be able to do it for that amount. Around $6.8k for the engine and $1k or so for installation. Throw in some misc and taxes and that should be the general neighborhood. I have no idea why you would need to replace the radiators but even if you do, I had one overnighted from SF to a track in northern MN for $350. So 2 for around $700 plus two hours of labor and you are still under $1k. Just my thoughts. Jim
  4. JimB
    Dell, Good point. FWIW, I think a painted version of the cup car strip would look great on a street car. It's only slightly longer and is angled forward a half inch or so. Jim
  5. JimB
    Dell, Are you implying that the purpose of the lower lip is to protect the spoiler? It actually plays a very important role at high speeds. Above 150 (on the track of course) the lip makes a huge difference in stability. Just adding the slightly larger cup car lip makes an even bigger difference. Maybe I misunderstood your comment. Jim
  6. JimB
    I used a fair number of parts for LA Dismantlers while rebuilding my 996 racecar over the winter. They have pretty much anything you might want but use them with caution. Get prices on new parts first. Their prices are not always that good. Get commitments on ship dates. They can be slow. Ask a lot of questions. Make sure you know what you are buying. Overall it was not a bad experieince. Not great but not bad. Jim
  7. JimB

    Trailer Recommendations

    JimB replied to skl's topic in 996 GT3

    I'm sure the Trailex would work great behind your pepper. With the exception of storage space it should be a good solution. It's a good looking trailer. See you at Mid-America?
  8. JimB
    It's very easy. A five minute job. Pop off the plastic on the inside of the door. Remove wire harness and three screws. Reverse process to install new ones.
  9. JimB

    Trailer Recommendations

    JimB replied to skl's topic in 996 GT3

    I use a 24 ft v nose Featherlite. As I recall, it weighs around 3500 lbs so about 7000 with race car and tools. It's a great trailer but may be a bit of a load for your Cayenne. Obviously you'll have plenty of power but I worry about what happens in a cross wind. The Porsche guys have offered to let me pull it around with a Cayenne but I haven't had a chance to yet. The low Trailex trailers look pretty good but you are sure giving up a lot of storage. The best think about having an enclosed trailer is seeing if you can bring your whole shop to the garage. Good luck, Jim
  10. JimB
    I've not seen a web site but they have a full page ad (bright yellow) in every Excellence. Their number is 618-622-0524. I think they are somewhere around Chicago.
  11. JimB
    Last year I purchased an aero front and sideskirts from BW and then, after wrecking my race car, another aero front a couple of weeks ago. Their prices are good and the service was excellent. I think it was Brad that I dealt with. I would not hesitate to recommend them. (no affiliation) Jim
  12. JimB
    As I recall, just over $100. Maybe $120.
  13. JimB
    The only solution I have seen is to cut off a long stud and screw it into the hub using some lock-tight. A fellow club racer with a 996 TT did this. It seems to work fine although I'm sticking with the bolts until something better comes out.
  14. JimB
    John, If you have a specific concern I would take the car back to the dealer and have them check the computer for mechnical over-revs. If you do it now you should be able to tie the incident to the first 100 miles. Assuming you bought it at one of the Twin Cities dealers, I'm sure either one would be happy to pull up the info. They are both great dealers. Jim
  15. JimB
    Jim If it's not a small rock, try pushing the heat/splash shield back a little bit. For some reason they seem to deform just enough that they will rub on the rotor. You can just push back a little on the corners that protrude. As for the rotors, mine have always cracked before they got even close to being too thin but my car is only used on the track. I'm sure Loren will be back to you with the measurement. I'm pretty certain that rotor thickness has nothing to do with your noise though. Good luck, Jim
  16. JimB
    The 99-01 996 had a minor problem with front end lift at high speeds. Before adding the aero front end, mine would start moving around a bit at 145 (on the track) and get worse from there. That was without a rear wing which would have made it much worse. The aero front end settles the car down perfectly. I think this is one area where you should listen to Porsche. I would not consider adding a rear wing without the front if you intend to drive the car at significant speeds. If $$ is an issue I would add the front and sides first and go for the wing later.
  17. JimB
    Actually I've heard that there are a few places doing work on the 996 transmission. Apparently many of the gears and syncros are the same as the G50 or other older boxes and a couple of shops have popped up that will cut off the welded pieces and replace them. The shop where I have my racecar worked on recently had the input shaft rebuilt for a guy. Hopefully this will become more common or better yet Porsche will wise up and start building a serviceable tranny. The engine replacement program makes perfect sense to me but the transmission program sucks. As for whether or not it should be done, at least for track use a higher first, a lower sixth and tighter ratios in-between would be fantastic. I don't think it would be of much value on the street though. Jim
  18. JimB
    racerone, If you were to describe in more detail the situation you are in when your GT3 starts to push we could probably diagnose it for you. LSD will induce push but it would have to be under pretty hard acceleration. Enough that the LSD would be engaged. I really doubt that it has anything to do with the lack of rubber bushings. I would say the most likely cause is that under acceleration your rear is compressing while your front is lifting causing the front to loose traction and push a bit. In a car with adjustable shocks you would take a little rebound out of the front or reduce compression in the rear and try it again. On your car you might be left to be a little more gentle with the throttle in the early part of the corner. As I said, if you describe in detail the situation we might be able to provide more help. Jim
  19. JimB
    This happened to my 99 in the first 6 months. Porsche replaced it with a new Becker which has been fine. Since I converted my car to a race car it is laying around the shop somewhere. I'll make you a heck of a deal if you are interested.
  20. JimB
    Karl, I'm doing the work myself so it's just a matter of getting the right parts and bolting them together. I'll have to take a closer look at the parts list. There maybe some parts I don't really need on a track car. On the other hand I might just stick with the old look. No sense tipping off the other guys in C to the 3.6L X51 I'll have lurking in the back. Thanks for your help.
  21. JimB
    For the most part syncro damage is caused by driver error or long term abuse rather than a product defect so I sort of understand why they would be pushing back on a warranty claim. Having said that, their claim that it resulted from a small accident sounds pretty lame. I would keep pushing if I were you. This sounds like one that they might give on. If you do need a new syncro, you don't need to go through the transmission exchange program. It is my understanding that the gears and syncros are welded on the shafts but there is a shop in CA (I think) that will cut off the gears and weld on new ones for you. A good Porsche shop (not a dealer) should be able to help. Good luck. Jim
  22. JimB

    Six Point Use

    JimB replied to RayGT3's topic in 996 GT3

    I don't think anyone can recommend a 6 point harness with regular seats. The safety guys argue about a lot of things but not using shoulder straps without guide holes in your seats. No one thinks that is safe. If you want to use harnesses, you really need to spring for the proper seats. As for the rollbar, I had a DAS Sport bar before I swapped it for a cage. It was very well constructed. They aren't legal for PCA club racing because of the way they mount to the lower seat belt bolt but they are much better than most bolt-ins I've seen. I hope this helps. Jim
  23. JimB
    Tony, I am in the process of rebuilding my 99 996 race car so I need to replace both fenders, both lights and the front bumper cover anyway. I've thought about updating it to post 02. Can you give me any more specifics on the >100 little pieces. Thanks, Jim
  24. JimB
    Tool, that is an accurate answer but not the right answer. The right answer is, of course, to run out and buy an new ultra low aluminum track jack. Never pass up a perfectly good excuse to buy a tool. Olucier, driving up on a block works great, however, if you are planning to buy a jack anyway you should be fine with 4 inches of clearance for stock ride height. If your car is lowered then you will want a 3.5 inch jack. Jim
  25. JimB
    All headers and exhaust manifolds are tuned. They are just tuned for different purposes. A simplistic explanation would be that when one cylinder releases it's exhaust it sends a burst of air down the exhaust tube. Behind that burst is a vacuum. The trick is to have the next cylinder that fires (on that bank) send it's burst of exhaust into that vacuum at the point where the tubes meet. The vacuum sucks the next burst therefore making the engine more efficient. The length of the header tubes are used to time the arrival of the second burst just behind the first. Obviously, the exhaust bursts will come at different intervals at different RPMs. That is why different headers are "tuned" to maximize power at different RPMs. That is also why you can really mess up your engine by doing it wrong. If you think it through, it also becomes obvious why you can mess up torque by reducing backpressure. Reducing backpressure allows your first burst to travel faster potentially robbing your second burst of the vacuum advantage. Blah blah. I realize this is a greatly over simplified explanation but hopefully it helps. As for are they worth it. They are if the hearders are carefully matched to your engine, it's modifications and your driving. I would certainly educate myself on how they work and then ask a few thousand questions before I bought a set. It's unlikely that you will see much advantage over the stock units on the street. Jim
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